MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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49 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
I've seen a photo once where the top end oiler was connected to the return..
Thats not suprising, but if it looks bling, thats the most important thing
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9 hours ago, 1260Pete1 said:
Haven't looked into it yet
Just that, those tope end ones fed off the rocker, are at best no benefit whatsoever, but more likely they actually reduce the oil supply/pressure to your crank and cams
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1 hour ago, 1260Pete1 said:
Yep full external top end kit will be fitted
Fed from the bottom oil feed?
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Gsxr 750 36's also have a shalower plastic carb top, good carbs and easy to setup
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7 hours ago, VJ said:
Interesting, that would suggest 20 seems to be a good size for me to try next then for pilots. I know what you mean about not wanting to take carbs off.
Yeah im glad I got the wideband setup, ive been fucking around with 'seat of the pants' dyno tuning for years but its really reasuring to see a gauge co oberate my thoughts.
Personally I would stick with your origional plan of getting the main jet size right before dicking about with the needles for the mid range stuff because as soon as you change the main jet needles will probably need changing again, its basically pissing in the wind.
Difficulty on the road is being able to find a decent enough bit of road to hold the bike open full throttle from low revs all the way to the top of the rev range in a high gear, ideally 4th or above, and being able to watch your gauge while doing it, unless you can go-pro it maybe
Also worth noting at steady throttle and idle your afr wants to be a lot leaner than when accelerating, ideally around 14.7 ish so your idle isnt far out as is.
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All dependa, on bike, carbs the whole setup.
But as a rough guide on 1100/1200 motors with carbs around 36mm I have found a change in jet size of 10 (130 to a, 140 for eg) equates to an AFR change of about 0.5 (12.5:1 would become richer to 12:1)
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47 minutes ago, Allspeeds said:
Yah I get ya mate we have considered doing next session in 5th and rolling on from a higher rpm for similar reasons you have just explained
No reason it shouldnt work from low rpm in high gears, high gear, lower rpm's is pretty much the only time in real world riding you get to actually use all the power and torque properly. If you cant do that whats the point?
Sure its just a simple fix, they are pretty good when working
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Dont bother wasting your time with a jet kit, bit of dyno time, a, set of jets to suit and shim stock needles if needed
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7 hours ago, Damienga15de said:
Even if it's 13mm and looks to be a shorter stroke, it does make the clutch slip but definetly doesn't disengage fully at tick over you would do well to make the wheel stop by hand.
It is a full new ebc clutch pack would this make a difference
Ive not measured them but all the conventional type ducati remote res brembo ones are the same size. Ive never had a problem with them, even with a lockup clutch fitted
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The ducati master should work, ive been using them for years.
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Looks a lot better for sitting a bit higher too. Actualky be nice with both wheels white
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12 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
As its been some years since looking at this, I had to download the Curvemaker software, play with it and it doesn't do what I thought it did. You can create your own advance curve but DYNA only allow you a degree of retard per mapped point which isn't ideal and switching from one 'advance' curve to 'retard' curve is via manual switch or pressure switch. As I said not sophisticated , as if you need greater retard than the one degree you seemingly have to compromise the 'advance' curve. Newer systems, either 2D with compensations or 3D mappable are soooooo much easier to use / work better! Apologies if I caused confusion!
This is why ignitechs are so good, really easy to put whatever curve you want in, and have it change the curve however you want, not just a set +/- amount over the programmed curve.
Fully 3d mapping them is really simple
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5 minutes ago, ELLESS said:
But are they threespoke?
Yes mate
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Can be achieved with the 2000i - just not very sophisticated or with great resolution LOL!
Your description above suggests you have, a, one function or the other, not the ability to use both at the same time.
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9 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Now I'm confused..
NA or boost mode? Mine has a rev limiter and a retard function on it, on the retard function there is a test thingy, but that's all. Can you explain it to me, please, I think I'm missing something..
Get an ignitech is the soloution, set your own ignition curve and then set up your own retard curve that increases with boost.
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42 minutes ago, ELLESS said:
Do you know the weight of the rear wheel ?
Not sure exactly of the weight but iirc the zx6/9r wheels from the later models (they have thinner spokes) are around 1.5-2kg lighter than the slingshot ones with disc and sprocket carrier. They are really cheap too. Not sure of what the sprocket offset is off hand.
I will see if i can weigh and measure a, set when I get chance to get in my garage, ive got loads of em
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I will be there anyway given its the Mrs show, shoukd have somthing displayable by then too, either gsxr 250 or gsxr slingy turbo thing
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7 hours ago, ELLESS said:
My stainless Yoshi header is 3500 grams, so that will make some reduktion.
I would rather keep the yoshi headers than swapping to the gsxr ones, loose more in power than you will gain in the weight saving.
Looks like youve done most of the affordable stuff.
Biggest saving and handling improvement you can make is getting some lighter wheels. Can save quite a few kg's and its unsprung weight
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I found mine runs best and makes most power on a stock gsxr ignition curve, no extra retard at all. My old kit without intercooler needed a couple of degrees off at the top as it didnt like it with the stock advance and higher inlet temp.
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4 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
This. classic endurance insisted on 1052 cases for one season so breakers started asking stupid money.
Rules allow bandit motors now, so 1052 motors have no premium.
Bonus for anyone restoring/building them I guess
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4 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Ah, that works too?
My first plenum was too small, would hardly run of boost..
Mine works really well but its more by luck than judgement i think, dont think it would be too good without the intercooler, plenum cabt really ve much biggee because of space
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If your going to have a go the best starting point is to measure each wheel from centre to inside face of rear sprocket, thats the important bit.
Iirc slingshot wheels are 100mm, busa, srad, TL and early K-series are 110mm
And i think slabbies are around 90-95mm
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37 minutes ago, davecara said:
My wheels have got to match!
I’ve got a pair of slingshot wheels and a pair of Gen2 busa wheels.Slingy wheels= easy in the back, difficult in the front with the K6 forks
Busa wheels = easy in the front, slight cockache in the back. Can’t see it being any worse than when I put the busa wheel in my EF though
Bandit 12 wheel in the rear matches busa wheel in the front, dead cheap to get and no machining or dicking about
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7 minutes ago, davecara said:
It’ll be easier than making spindles or top hats/swapping bearings to make a slingy wheel work with my forks though surely?
Whats the front got to do with it? Lol
Pretty sure you can get bearings and tube to sort front wheel out easy enough. Thats way way easier then the amount of machining work need to get the rear to work, as well as the bearings/spacers/top hats needed too. To then end up with bugger all chain/tyre clearence and imho shite handling
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Big block for road use
in Oil Cooled
Posted
This is what I was getting at.
All the people that have them on there bikes as well as the standard oil past the studs supply are actually reducing the oil pressure to the cams and crank, albeit not by much, you cant force 5psi into 80 psi, actually goes the other way and the 80psi gets lower as a result.
Probably never be a problem because the oil system supplies more than is needed and will cope with the extra flow, but I wont risk it on my bikes. Im not arsed about looking good