MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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1 hour ago, vizman said:
I didn’t say thicker....I said bigger.
Might be a really small turbo
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Main differences between bandit 36mm carbs and gsxf/gsxr 36mm ones is the TPS on bandit carbs and the carb tops on bandit are taller. Internally there isnt a lot interchangeable either.
I guess the bigger tops are to help make mid range a bit smoother maybe.
Gsxr carbs be a bit better to use where top clearence is tight
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Fuel tap alone shouldnt normally cause this, however the diapragm in the bandit can get holed over time and the fuel flows into the carb via the vaccum line, by passing going through the floats entirely, always worth a check before diving straight into carb strips and rebuild kits
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9 hours ago, vizman said:
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
.....anyway back to suzukis
The Kawasaki tech blokes jaw dropped when I told him the figures for my shed built turbo bike, was just after I had told him I wasnt intersted in a test ride on a H2 because it would bore me.
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1127, bandit rotor will work on slabby, even using the slabby pickup, albeit just one of them. As long as your using an 1127/bandit cdi
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Looking forward to seeing it getting built
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Surely a double pass just means its 2 coolers of half the size with inlet and outlet on one end and conected to each other at the other end. You cant make oil flow to the end and then back the same way
The amount of oil going through it and the cooling area is the same, only real difference is where the fittings are. Which by the sounds of it, is exactly what you need. Cant see any reason why it wouldnt work fine
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Ahh ok, sure i can put a set together then
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6 hours ago, davecara said:
Ooh I need some rearsets for my slabby
Measure the bolt spacing mate, will see what ive got
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25 minutes ago, Otatts said:
Yeah I’ve been digging back through the archives and saw MeanBean mentions them a bit. Also found a thread from 2017 about this exact subject so sorry for going back over the same topic (I find the search engine on the site a bit tricky sometimes)
looks like the Sparker TCIP4 is the one to go for. @Meanbean49 is there much difference between the ‘standard’ and ‘full version’ of the TCIP4?? There’s only about a $8 price difference.
the write up on the site only seems to mention a single version yet on the price list there’s two
and yeah it’s about half the price of the Dyna setup but I guess you get coils with the Dyna......not that I need them. My coils are fine
Full version has more functions, i always get full, for the sake of a few quid more you might as well have it all.
I get really good discount on them, have done bulk orders a few times on here for people. Quite a big saving. Happy to order them at cost for anyone who does want one
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1 hour ago, Otatts said:
Going down the rabbit hole of piston kit research now after your suggestion!! Ha ha!
good to know about the head cracks. The 750 motor had low comp on cylinder 2 but not sure why until I pull it apart. Kid and wifey are away for two weeks this Monday so that = garage time
hoping just to freshen up the DOT head and fit the CV 36’s I have on it already and run the 750 CDI for now. That’s the cheapest option. Then I can save to port the bandit head/ 1216 piston kit/ RS 38’s for later
one question MeanBean. If I run both gsxr cams in the B12 is it ‘safe’ to rev it up past 10-11k?? I thought the 1127 and B12 were basically the same bottom end no?
1127 rev limit is same as b12 as far as im aware, its not the cams that limit how hard you can rev it, its the rotating mass, crank, rods pistons, and how long the stroke is. The forces generated in the longer stroke motors are much higher at high rpm than in the shorter stroke 750 ones, thats what kills them.
I have my turbo motor limiter set at 11500 rpm and its quite happy at that, power has tailed off by 11000 anyway, even with ported and flowed head with gsxr cams
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55 minutes ago, Otatts said:
Yeah. Sorry I was talking about skimming the Bandit head not the DOT.
but yeah the piston idea to boost compression is a great idea.
All depends on $$$ I guessIn my experience you would do well ti find a dot head thats not cracked, but I was told by a wise person once they are nothing to really worry about, just surface cracking and will always happen, just live with it.
Not sure on others experience but I have never had any issues with running heads with few cracks round the plug head. Wouldnt use head if the were anywhere else though
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38 minutes ago, Otatts said:
Thanks Dezza. I did wonder about the height of the RS carbs! Going to have enough trouble with the clearance of the filters on the CV 36’s as there aren’t many that fit the oval carb intakes! It’s pretty tight already! Gah.....trial and error I guess
If you get feally stuck, using the dot head cams in a b12 head is virtually as good as using the whole lot, only a few bhp less, and using the RS's would more tham make up for it.
Or a ported b12 head with dot cams is way better than a dot head
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5 hours ago, Otatts said:
Ah there’s a real nasty rev limiter at 10,000 rpm. I hit it a few times at the track but never on the street. Gsxr redline is at 13,500 so it’s gotta be done.
pretty easy job now that I’m looking at it. Just a bit of soldering and chucking a whole heap of Bandit wires in the bin.The wires I need on both looms are the same colour too so it’s pretty straight forward
Pretty sure bandit limiter is 11000, a good 1000rpm after they have run out of puff.
Saying that back when I was racing and had no money i ran a, 12 motor on a, 750 loom and cdi, lasted a, went a, whole season with plenty of over revving and unintended limiter bashing and no problems.
Also known people who have thrown rods out really quickly
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1 hour ago, Otatts said:
Ah ok cool. Thanks for that.
using the 750 CDI as I’m planning on putting the DOT head on from the 750 too....cams etc. so I’m just getting one job out of the way while get ready to rip the head off the 750 and clean it upoh and the bandit runs out of guts way before redline so I never really bother revving it hard....better to just throw another gear at it
thanks
You dont need the cdi, just the head and cams, they are what make the bandit run out of puff. Its not worth the effort, better off getting an ignitech for it so you can set your own ignition curve and also the rev limit
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3 hours ago, Otatts said:
Am I correct in thinking because the 750 CDI doesn’t recognize (and doesn’t have inputs for) the neutral switch then I can just leave them unplugged??
just thinking out aloud here
cheers O
Yes, 750 cdi doesnt have/need neutral wires
Why do you want to use the 750 cdi in the 1st place?
Theres no real benefit and you run the risk of over revving the 1200 lump
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Is the Trackday included? Haha
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I need to have a look at the spacing, ive just bought a job lot of zx6 race rearsets
IIRC K1 GSXR spacing is pretty much the same
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1 hour ago, kiwisuzuki1100nz said:
After advise, guidance and experience in racing without an alternator - GSXR 1100 H
Looking at removing the alternator for race days, running on battery power and charging in between sessions.
Apart from removing the alternator and using a good sealing blank is there anything else electrically wise that need to do?
Nothing at all.
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5 hours ago, zedhead said:
Off the top of your head KM, what's the date of the Scottish Show? And nice one Wee Man ;-)
You thinking of going up Dave?
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Might be up for it, cant confirm for certain though until after crimbo
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Top pic looks like a valve adjuster out of a rocker arm, might also be its, nut somewhere, dowel could be rocker cover one or cylinder head one possibly
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Plenum finish
in Forced Induction
Posted
Colour does not really have any effect, its radiation (mostly light) that colours absorb/reflect. Actually better off painting it white to reduce radiated heat from outside, but the effect is next to f-all
Finning has very little effect too, the airflow is moving pretty quick and very little heat will actually be absorbed quick enough to do anything useful, if it did have a big affect it would also lower pressure.
May be worth it on mega performance stuff where every fraction is important but not really worth the effort for a road bike. Fins would look cool though