MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Hi Matt, next party will be at Stafford bike show this weekend.
Slabby engines have started to fetch silly money because of classic racing. But saying that I bought a good one this year for £450. Same with frames people want silly money for them but there are still bargains to be had, sounds like you found one.
I reckon the value of the motors is going to drop now its widely acceptable to use bandit motors
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8 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
It's pretty simple, make sure the carbs in good condition, new gaskets and stuff, pitot tubes in the up pipe, and on that you connect the float bowl breather pipes.
Some bikes are sensitive on the size of the plenum, mine was, here on this site is also someone who got away with a small plenum. Rule of thumb, plenum size is 2 times the displacement of the engine. If I remember correctly..
My plenum is relatively small but the intercooler acts like a secondary plenum
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Same as Dunc, never had a damper on any of my slingy race bikes, never an issue even with the front dropped and rear raised.
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All depends what sort of condition your motor is in really, a good motor shouldnt really behave much differently than a stock one. ive never needed anymore than the standard cam cover breather and one from the oil filler. My cam cover one is just open and oil filler one has a pipe into a bottle, I get a tiny amount of oil in the bottle after a full trackday and never anything out the top breather hole.
More holes means more places for oil leaks.
As Viz said there are plenty more important things to worry about first, mainly getting the compression suitable for turbo use
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23 minutes ago, vizman said:
You can use the ‘oil filler’ as a point for fitting a crankcase breather.....but this is the least of your worries.
What is the c/r of them 750’s ? What type of pistons do they have (cast/forged)?
etc etc etc
Will need the breather if the motors left stock i reckon
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Does, look ti be sitting a, bit low at the rear too, should be close to where it is on the padock stand without being on the stand
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I put a K1 swingarm into my slingshot, never bothered with the adaptor bracket, use a slingshot linkage, slingshot shock and made some dog bones to suit, alk I had to do was grind away a small amount from the underside cross brace on the swingarm to get a bit if clearence, worked perfectly on road and racing. No need to complicate things with expensive bits if you dont need to imo
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2 minutes ago, manden said:
what have you done to solve the tacho problem when you have converted to a modern fork. i have an slabside and now there is an gsxr 1000 k7 fork on it and no tach. couldnt pass inspection
Mk2 bandit has its speedo pickup on the sprocket cover, you should be able to get an electric speedo to work from one of those, or acewell clocks and similar all use a magnet and pickup to measure speed.
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I run an intercooler on mine, its has helped massively, saw a 20bhp power increase at 7psi by just pointing the two 25mph dyno fans close and directly at it. Also found i didnt have to arse about with any ignition retard at higher boost/revs. Also helps keep everything running nice and consistant and really reliable, i think my bike wouldnt last too long on a hot day doing full sesions around Cadwell. Personally I will always run one.
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So whos going? Ive got permission to stay over sat night for a few beers
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55 minutes ago, Gsx1100er said:
Are ANY parts interchangeable between J/ K engines and L engines.
Cheers
Cylinder heads and cams are different but interchangeable, thats about it
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44 minutes ago, snoorder said:
Thanks guys.
The thing is, I have a 1990 750L track bike. And by now almost enough spare parts to build another bike. So I am looking for a frame.
If I understand correctly the 91 subframe is wider so probably my 90 bodywork will not fit?
The fairings and bracket are also different, not just seat unit
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88 and 89 750 frames are different size/geometry to the all the other slingshots 750 and 1100. Due to using the shortstroke motor. They are smaller.
All the others are the same geometry and size, iirc the 1100 uses bigger ally beam. Also subframes are slightly different due to the seat unit changing on later models.
All engines do fit in all frames but the its an engine out job to get rocker cover off if using other motors in 88/89 frame.
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3 hours ago, manden said:
Has anyone actually checked what the cr becomes with busa rod/Piston combo on an 58mm and 59mm crank shaft?
I worked it all out a while ago for 59mm crank and bamdit head/rods with busa pistons it was 7.8:1 and when using Gen 1 busa rods as well, with a 2mm spacer plate it was a little higher at 8:1 iirc
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A properly sized decent ball bearing turbo is much simpler and will give more plenty of torque low down as well as top end power. I had a good long chat with one of the kawasaki tech guys about the H2 and H2R, the big problem they have is keeping the heat down and the amount of power it takes to make boost at low revs on a small capacity engine means its not actually that torquey low down anyway.
The H2R supposedly makes 135 ft lbs in the middle of the rev range and 300 ish bhp peak
Mine makes 200 ft lbs at 6k and as much as the H2R at just 4k with 280bhp peak
Puts the low down torque thing superchargers are meant to be great for into perspective.
Mine is really nice to ride, nice and linear, no big steps or sudden boost. Dead easy to ride it fast on trackdays.
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45 minutes ago, shaunbrogdon said:
I'm struggling to find an 1100 slingshot CDI though @MeanBean49. Plenty of power screen 1100f CDIs with plugs that match but I'm not sure if they're the same. Might check part nos on CMSNL or Robinsons
Powerscreen ones will work fine too
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Might see about popping up, pretend im off to see family
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Very nice
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Better off using an oil cooled gsxr 1100 cdi, is the same plug as the 750 and the right rev limit fot the bandit lump.
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39 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
The point is there are far more fragile things than the tee's ie. the floats or the carb tops! And contrary to your statement 'floats have pressure inside' - they do not - just atmospheric from when they were moulded and so they have to cope with external atmospheric air pressure plus boost pressure.
They do have pressure inside!!
What happens if you try and squeeze a bottle with the lid on underwater? The trapped air acts to resist the crushing, same in a float. Yes it will compress but it will take more pressure than if they were oper to atmosphere, just like the outside of a fuel pipe. And a good condition carb top isnt weak and also subject to less pressure than the fuel t's.
But go ahead keep adding more poor answers to questions that werent asked
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In answer to the question, the plastic t pieces are fine
Why are the floats of any relevance whatsoever I have no idea? Different material, not under any pressure from the fuel pump at all, the pressure they are under is from boost/air pressure and is less than the fuel pressure in the pipes, and they are sealed and have pressure on the inside acting against the outside pressure.
I dont understand the need to mention them and wouldnt worry
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Ball park 138 - 145, if you read my bit above - still don't mean its going to run right!
I dont get what your bit above means?
The exhaust stroke pushing gas out easier doesnt make and engine suck more in on the inlet stroke?
The bore and stroke dictate the volume sucked in each stroke
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Personally wouldnt bother with the short stroke, weaker motor all round, unless you can find one with an 837 kit
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26 minutes ago, davecara said:
Only because I’ve got one! I don’t have a sprocket carrier etc for my slingy wheel. I’m a week or so away from making it a roller so loads of time to research and faff
You got a mate that can machine down wheel/sprocket carrier or both?
6” Rear wheel in a slab
in Oil Cooled
Posted
More hassle than its worth, much better off running a, 5.5 with a, 180/60 on. Also clearence on slingshots is really tight on 5.5 let alone with a 6".
Pretty sure slabby sprocket offset is less than slingy.