MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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Any shock that fits will work really, its more a case of getting whatever shock you use sprung correctly instead of hoping whatever spring is fitted will work
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11 hours ago, Brendan said:
Hello, I was hoping somebody could help me out with the starting issue im having on my 1980 gs550l that I am currently restoring. So far the only way I've been able to start the bike is with starting fluid, but it absolutely refuses to start on its own. Once it starts, it runs good, but at idle it always drops in rpm until it stalls. When running, it is also slow to return to idle when it is revved up. The carbs are getting gas and the bike is getting spark. Any idea on what the problem could be? Air/Fuel mix? Bad coils? I appreciate any and all help and input. Thanks.
Sounds like blocked idle jets, or far too lean on the mixture screws. Be worth taking the carbs off and giving them a good clean out and setting the screws to factory spec.
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55 minutes ago, wraith said:
There's a srad one for sale in the sale section.
Pretty much the same master cylinder as slingshot anyway, not an upgrade
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Pretty much any radial master off a modern bike is a good upgrade, not much in it outright stopping power wise (is just still virtually same size a piston in a hole) but the feel is loads better.
The nissin ones used on loads of Jap stuff can be bought cheap enough, fancy brembo stuff etc is no better unless your going into the propper aftermarket upgrade ones, but they dont come cheap
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6 hours ago, NorthernBloke said:
Measured the wheel and its approximately 110mm from centre to inside sprocket face.
If you can get that down a bit should help with getting hub to clear swingarm too.
Not sure what sprockets are avaialble for those wheels, talon sprockets for gsxr wheels are dished, you can flip them and also get a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket. (possibly more with 520 sprocket). Adds up to about 5mm of the 10 mm you need to find, much easier to machine 5mm off wheel than 10mm
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Make some top hat spacers, 28mm od, 25mm id to slide through the busa chain adjuster blocks and then into the swingarm adjuster slots, you can use 25mm spindle then.
Another good idea is to stick a ruler from the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket on the wheel your going to be using. Slingshot standard is 100mm ish iirc, if wheel your using is more you need to suss out how to address keeping the wheel central and the chain alignement correct. Busa/TL/srad/k series gsxr are 110mm. Takes a bit of machining etc to to get them fitted properly. I think aprillia wheels are more than 110mm.
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49 minutes ago, BanditPervert said:
Perfect thank you, that’s exactly what I was looking for.
ive never done a turbo bike before or ridden one so still not sure what to expect, I’m hoping for a nice surprise.
does really run out of fuel that quickly?
They do when ridden hard, mine regularly does as well as about 5mpg
Steady away and off boost they are almost as good as standard
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22 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Have a guess - clue's in the name!
How do you fill empty float bowls when you have a vacuum tap ?
Doesnt mean its not fine using as an on . Its the same hole in the tap just turned to bypass the vaccume part. Flows exactly the same rate (because its the same hole into the same pipe) as it does going through the vac part when engine is running. The whole point of a vac tap is to help stop carb overflow when a bike is stood up not running. Bandit taps actually flow slightly better on prime because the path is straighter and smoother.
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32 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
And 'prime' really isn't designed for running under load especially with a turbo!
What is it designed for then? Its a tap, a hole leading into a pipe.
Works percectly fine for nearly every turbo bandit out there.
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On 6/30/2020 at 8:45 PM, BanditPervert said:
Wasn’t sure weather to start a new thread or not, but with regards to the fueling, do I need to remove the vacuum from the fuel tap?
I have an Osias high pressure fuel pump with a fpr and in line filter, will the vaccuum from the carbs still be ok to use?
thanks
In answer to your question, you can still use the standard tap, but only on prime, and without the vac line.
You dont have a vaccume anymore to suck the tap open, you get the opposite of it being blown shut.
Worth remembering though you have no reserve function on prime, and you run out of fuel pretty quick with a turbo. I may have fallen foul of that a couple of times myself
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10 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
But as soon as boost builds there won't be vacuum - anywhere - so the tap will shut off flow and carbs will starve!
In a turbo install you have to use either a manual tap or electric one.
Thats what he was asking
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36 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Vacuum from carbs for what? Boosted applications offer low vacuum signal when 'off' boost - the system reverting to pressurised when 'on' boost. Your FPR (hopefully a boost referenced one) will definitely use that connection. Most people take boost reference signal from plenum or pitot tube to simplify the plumbing!
To operate his fuel tap.
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54 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
That's the chart I meant.
Theres one thats not a chart, it gives a write up of each turbo, what housings etc they are made with, cfm figures and bhp
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50 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Thanks.
There's a chart on the net for the VF turbo's, but for some it doesn't hold information, like the one I have..
If you google IHI vf turbo specs one of the first results has a list of them all and a description of the whole range, handy quick guide, just worth remembering the power figures relate to a car engine that makes more power N/A than bandit/gsxr low comp motors. Equates to 50bhp ish less on bike in my experience.
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4 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Ah thanks.
I did read that the 22 is an upgrade from the 23, that's why I asked, not familiar with the numbers, I have the impression that a higher number not necessarirly means it's a bigger turbo...
22 is the biggest, spools bit slower but best for power, 400bhp on car, (350 on bike)
23 has same turbine but smaller compressor. Spools faster but less power 350bhp on car (280-300 on bike)
24 has 23 compressor and a smaller turbine 275bhp on car (maybe 250 on bike)
Cant really hybrid them apart from a 24 small turbine with a 22 big compressor but that would be a bit crap, would spool slower because of the big compressor and make less outright boost because of the small turbine.
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7 hours ago, BanditPervert said:
I’ve looked at the IHI’s And read the Spondon article online and saw he used the vf23, none around at the moment though.
clive, was it a 16t you had before, I’ve seen a 19t but I’m not sure if would physically be to large.
Cheers
Thats my old bike. I may have a spare 23 kicking round come to think of it
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8 hours ago, clivegto said:
No, l have a high-bread one vf22 hot side vf23 cold side. Turbo reconditioning man says it will spin up fast & make more top end power while retaining middle power as well.
Your is an odd combination of 24 with 23 hot side isnt it?
22 and 23 are exactly the same hot side.
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13 hours ago, BanditPervert said:
Is that adapter thread for the shaft?
i saw a bandit one on a previous thread and it looked the same.
Yes, the adaptor replaces the two bits that bolt the bandit clutch pack/springs together and the main nut. The lockup then bolts to that adaptor
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May have my little GSXR 250 back together by then.
Mrs could be working there too. Likely to be quite big and busy if it does go ahead
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5 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
I did think of it, but I like to keep it simple.
They are pretty simple, only a couple of wires really, i found with the mechanical ones i was forever having ti stop to adjust it to right level of boost , never seemed to stay constant, always seem to differ depending on the weather/temperature etc, and i didnt want long air pipes everywhere and the potential for leaks/splits so it could be mounted somewhere accesible to adjust on the move. Much easier just having a switch and dial on my dash.
Spose it depends how much you want to mess with boost level
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You thought about an electronic one? Ive been using one like this for years, its works really well and can be adjusted easily, even on the move. Turned off it works at standard boost pressure, turn it on and dial in as much boost as you like. Works instantly because it doesnt rely on pressure to operate.
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51 minutes ago, Swirl said:
Old thread alert, that blue and white Savage is awesome anymore details on it, have you all used Oilboilers in them
Yeah oil boilers in both, blue and white one was a b12, bodywork is XR69, ace fun bike that was. Want to build another
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1 minute ago, vizman said:
...no wonder your bikes take ages to build el’dervio, so many aspects to tick off the jobs list.
Are they jobs or excuses not to finish?
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Just now, vizman said:
....or just move to somewhere cold and at sea level
Like Skegness, haha
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1980 GS550L Starting Problem
in Air Cooled
Posted
Whether they have been split or not they will need balancing (sync'ing). If the jets are all clear, and the air ways to them in the carb inlets, I would guess either the mixture screws are set too lean (screwed in too far) or you have a huge air leak somewhere. Are you runnining it with no airbox/filters fitted?