Dezza

Got to go abroad for work next Monday so no time to arrange anything, even though it would probably just about squeeze into my garage (which is basically full of bike stuff as it is, and I fall over it all when moving about) . New shed planned for summer.

There's one on eb@y for those looking for a new project . I'd be on blower if I had somewhere to keep it. 226010903576

What is now needed is the carb top height measurements GSXR v Blandit .

Does it get the factory anodising off frames? The blasting that is, not the GT85 or the ACF50 .

I've only removed hard anodising from relatively small parts such as footrest plates and it's a pig of a job. Soaking in caustic soda solution, attack with Scotchbrite, repeat ad nauseum. Good luck with the frame. Maybe soaking old towels in caustic and wrapping around the frame spars will help initially. Has anyone had an alloy frame soda/vapour blasted? I have always wondered if this is effective on a part as big as a frame and if it gets hard anodising off eventually.

Were they anodised from new? And what finish are you aiming for? Are you going to modify it by welding?

Modern two-stroke oils make far less smoke and are less smelly than those of the 80s. I have a small 2 stroke bike (early 70s) and it only smokes and smells when started from cold and not much at that.

Yep, and then add into the equation engines of different capacity and those of similar capacity with different power characteristics

Great . Do you have the B12 tops to measure and compare?

GSXR/teapot rubbers are shorter than blandit rubbers so will bring the carbs closer to the head, which may also help solve the problem. It would be interesting to know if the GSXR/teapot carb tops go on blandit carbs and work OK though

Can't go wrong with a Harris frame . Personally, I prefer the original Harris swingarm over the Benelli item. Their welding and fabrication skills are second to noone but it's your bike and the whole point is getting it the way you want it.

Are the W mounts the same as for oil cooled engines?

Just had this problem with an 1100 slabby engine, tubes seized solid. After several heating/cooling cycles and using mulple doses of home brewed penetrating fluid (1:1 acetone:cellulose thinners mix + a dash of power steering fluid) they finally started to move using a large screwdriver as a lever and a block of wood with a mallet. Then grabbed with a set of large mole grips to get them swivelling side-to-side. Pulling up hard whilst wiggling the tube to and fro then gets the tube out, eventually. Whole exercise took about 3 hours. I think if a bull-in-a-china-shop approach was used the pipes would quickly end up as scrap and debris could end up where it shouldn't, i.e. in the crankcases. Patience and persistence is key.

Yep, same happened to mate's prilla mille last year. It was loose main earth wire (found after I'd trailered bike back to base).

What filter does it take? If it's the paper cartridge type as used on a whole load of air cooled Suzukis, e.g. GSX1100, then it only fits one way as the o'rings in the middle fit over the metal stub. If it was put in back to front the filter plate wouldn't go on.

Some of their bikes although they look like modified stock bikes have bespoke frames, a bit like some AMA bikes in the 80s when some teams were blatently cheating.

Obtaining a true 1bhp/kg from a normally aspirated oil cooled OSS bike would require deep pockets. Doing it using an aircooled engine would require very deep pockets.

I remember all those old Ford Capris, Cortinas, and Escorts in the late 70s/80s that were converted to 'harlequins' after one or more body panels had suffered terminal rust

Would secondhand Blandit 1200 pistons (or pistons and block) be a cost-effective big bore kit for an 1127 engine?

If the carbs are indeed the bst 38s from a 1990 750 (L) and you have the appropriate rubbers, they should go on the engine. A 1987 750 is a slabby, and the bst 38s are a physically large carb but I do not know if this engine, frame, carb combo will work as a bolt on. Something may be fouling preventing the carbs from going on. Do you have the original carbs and rubbers? You can then check to ensure that the new carbs have the same spacing as the old ones (if not carbs are from a W with different spacing) and/or the rubbers result in an incorrect spacing when mounted on the engine (rubbers from a W???). Basically, check that you haven't ended up with the bST38s from a 750W. Many breakers fail to describe these carbs properly (I wonder why...) resulting in people ending up with a nice set of big CV carbs that won't fit their oilcooled engine. Also, check that the rubbers are mounted correctly: 1-4, left to right sitting on the bike.

Still sounds like a blockage remains. Personally I'd strip the carbs again completely and soak everything (minus rubber and plastic bits) in a sealed contaner of mixed cellulose thinners and acetone, ultrasonic the lot (twice), and rebuild.

Try an air corrector kit (from Grumpys, eb@y) in the carbs along with jetting changes and K and N type individual filters. This will basically give you a LeDar induction kit, one of the greatest inventions known to humanity

If the throttle cable bracketry is removed, will the carbs go on? If so, could a custom made bracket solve the issue?

Sounds like the cold start and pilot circuit on one or more carbs is blocked with varnished fuel.

You can get a nice alloy gear lever that fits older Suzukis from China via eb@y for about a tenner (black or silver). I have one somewhere in a box of nick-nacks as I used an offset item from a 400 Blandit instead. If I remember correctly the seller offers various items for many models and I had to take a bit of a gamble ordering it due to a lack of detail in the description. Not many places offer replacement items with splines due to the cost of the broaching tools, apparently.