wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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Welcome to OSS.
If you use OEM parts ring Robinson's tell them your a OSS member and you will get 10% off the code is on here somewhere if you want to do it over the net.
They are also very quick on delivery.
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A lot of people do miss the front page and the wealth of info there
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I read it involves changing bearings and some work on the cases?
There was a thread on here about a year ago on the same topic,
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This was years ago and the grey matter is not as good as it was
if I recall on a 550 with CV carbs I had k&n filters and open exhaust ended up with 125 mains
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Got a full gasket set from just bandits (can't remember the name of the set but came with all the oil seals, o rings and gaskets £140 but that was last year.
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For a 50k + engine, they look very clean to me and you can still see the honing. I'd say more like 2000k engine looking at them clean pistons and bore, has the previous owner done some work?
Dose look like you definitely have some oil burning
But I'm not a mechanic someone should be a long to confirm.
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If it was running ok before, then yes.
When you remove the air box and put filters on you need to increase the main jet (don't usually need to replace pilot jet just alter the screws)
As to main jets, this can/will all depend on the exhaust system you have on.
3000rpm is where abouts the pilot jets over lap the needle and then the main jet.
I'd put the standard pilot jets back in, and put 2 more size up on the main jets. Once you get it reving over 3000rpm (on the road) then start altering the pilot and needles to get it just right.
You may still be able to get the jet kits for the gs550?
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I'd always give the bores a honing when putting new rings in, just so they can bed in.
Down side is, if your bores are getting worn/near their limit, a hone will just make it worse.
Best thing to do is to get your manual and start measuring parts (rings and bores)
If you have not got a lot of burnt oil on top of your pistons, then your oil leak may of been one or more exhaust valve stem seals.
Did the smoke clear when the bike wormed up or did it smoke all the time?
As to when to do a piston ring change, that all depends on how the engine has been treated over its life.
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Pictures and a build thread is always welcome
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What size/length push did you use for the push rod?
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7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Re the above chart - I thought the 600's had a different cylinder spacing to the 750 / 1100 engines?
So how would the camshafts interchange?
I hope not
I'm going to be putting 750 block and pistons on a b6 bottom end in the next year 
There was a old wright up in streetfighters mag some years ago (is it still going?) With one of there team putting a 750 top end in a b6 with the 884cc big bore etc and they said it made more bhp than a standard gsxr1100
But you must think as price of parts and trying to find some parts, is it just worth getting a 750 motor ?
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I was told by one OSS member they where by his part numbers but then told by another member they where not by his part numbers, so best check the part numbers yourself to get a 100% answer
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1 minute ago, Wagola said:
Looks more like lifted paint and corrosion to me ?
Just thinking, has the chain snapped at some point and coursed the damage?
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What's the white stuff on the left-hand side just above the selector?
Chemical metal?
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18 hours ago, TLRS said:
There's a good chance gsx1400/TL/Busa will fit.. what do the partnr's say?
Good call
Didn't check the gsx1400 but TL/Busa the same as the gsxr600/750 srad
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I will have a look
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Dose anybody know if there are any other sprocket carriers that will fit the gsxr 600/750 srad?
Thanks
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Dose anybody know the difference between the gsxr750 srad braced swingarm and the gsxr1000k1-k2 ?
IE will the srad rear wheel fit with no/not much messing?
Thanks
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4 hours ago, Econ said:
That's cool!
I had turbo in mine too, but I had SRAD 750 engine at the time. That engine is now in my classic racing SRAD.
We need more info on that
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As most of the gs850 had CV carbs (and you don't like the 750 carbs) look out for some gs850 carbs.
I take it you're using the gs850 carb rubbers?
If so, there's a big difference between the 750 and 850 bore size of carb and you maybe getting air leeks on the carb rudders and that would/could be the hard starting problem.
Have you altered the getting and/or air screws at all?
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Is it the old slide carb 850 head you have or just using the gs750 carbs?
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2 hours ago, Kamikaze said:
first 2 numbers are kg, then the last 3 are grams.....so for example the last wheel which is 30years old is a magnesium race wheel. weighs in at 11 kg and 629 grams.
I have pics with weights some where without tyres and sprocket carriers as well
Cheers, I thought it was kg but couldn't see on pic, so best check
Linking in with a post I put up in general section, the rf900 rear wheel is over 1kg lighter than the slingshot and the 600 srad about the same weight as the RF9.
Cheep way to loss some weight, without missing out on the burger's
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20 minutes ago, Kamikaze said:
Definitely kg dude. If wheels where any lighter they would snap
Cheers some good info
Thanks for your time.
Newby saying hello
in Oil Cooled
Posted
That just needs a bit of grease in the bearing