wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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Had a set of 35mm CR carbs on my old gs1000 board out to 1148cc and boy did it shift, but a pain to set up.
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Anyway, if he's running a stock gs1000 the RS34mm will be ample the 36mm will be to big for stock motor.
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Possibly, but throw a 1085 or 1135 kit at it with RS36's and it'll wake right up . . . . . who builds std. GS1000's anyway
My comment was just for a GS 1000 bord to 1085 or 1100cc don't know about a gsx or bigger bore than a gs1100 and if you went any bigger than a 1100cc bore on a GS motor you really need to start looking at bigger values to get the most out of the bigger bore, you then maybe ok to go for a 36mm + carbs on a gs1000.
Just repeating what Roger Upton told me when he was doing a motor for me.
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Was speaking to a well known bike tuner once and he told me that anything bigger than a 35mm carb is wasted on a CV or slide carb head gs1000 as they are to big to get the best out of the engine and carbs.
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Put a DJ kit in the 38mm gsxr carbs that are on the kat, spoke to the Dyna lads in the UK told them what I was running, they sent me a kit I put it in and apart from one change of main jet worked first time. Done all the pissing about taking the bike for a run then changing something and the taking for another run and repeat.
Only once had a bike set up on a rolling road and that was years back at V&M and when they had the bike for a week and it still had a flat spot decided they are not worth the time/money, not saying they are all bad some very good ones out there. But me I'd got for a kit first.
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I know I've not re built a GS motor in some years (at least 8 years) but f##k me I thought at the time I think the where about £80 each APX but £350 is taking the p##h
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If you have the spare money, for piece of mind get some new OEM ones from Robinson's
I would think most second hand ones will be showing there age
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Pictures of what you have will help
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2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
No. TL1000R arm is underbraced.
Must of been looking at the pic up side down
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Wouldn't the bracing on the arm get in the way for putting shock mounts on?
I've got a gsxr750wr swing arm in my kat, went straight in
Also put a srad swingarm in my gsx1100f project and now put a gsxr1000 k1-3 swingarm in, went straight in the pivot points just need to make a sleeve for the pivot bearings to go down to the gsx spindle size
Both I've changed to single shock
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As far as I know, the 750 and 850 clutch covers won't swap.
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16 minutes ago, Wagola said:
Or the Messiah !
He's not the Messiah, he's a very bad boy
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
the life of Brian
Yes, but he's a very naughty boy
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As long as it doesn't say. not for road use, on it.
Take a nice pie to your mot man
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They look more like b6 carbs.
Measure the ID of the engine side of the carbs, if they are 32mm they are b6
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Just look when they did in Cuba to keep cars running before the USA decided to be friendly to them
There's doing it right and proper and then there's just get and keep it running.
Back in the day I had a Ho##a 750 the main fuse was a nail as 30 amp just blow, it worked didn't give me any greeth so I just left it there
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On 1/13/2022 at 6:42 PM, fatblokeonbandit said:
£17 from china..
Had one of them on my kat for about year and a half. Not let me down yet
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Anyone ?
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2 hours ago, Isleoman said:
I don't discount the advice above and would certainly follow those recommendations for my own equipment.
Having said that I would like to see a TV / Youtube show where these types of recommendations are "experimented with" (think myth busters for bikes). There's a lot of "line bore" advice that I'm sure is absolutely correct but I'd still like to see someone else do an experiment with their equipment for my entertainment and see how it holds up.
Mixed matched cases, swapped cam caps etc. Why would I find that interesting? Well for one thing I think production machining has advanced and is much more precise than it was in the 70s / 80s so the story line of my show would involve doing what you shouldn't do on older and newer bikes.
Again I believe the advice given above is sound, but I like seeing what happens when advice isn't followed "by others". The show could be called "Old Wive's Tales" or "Doubting Thomas" or "Post Apocalypse Builds'. I think the problem for the story line might be that it may take more than a few miles of use before the shite happens.
Best thing for you to do, is buy a gs1000 engine remove the cam caps buy so other caps and put them on. See how far you get. Ever the cams will not turn (done this) or you start the engine up and all you can hear is the cans tapping.
O and just to make it worth doing so we can all have a laugh, you MUST throw away the original cam caps weeks before you get another set so you can't chet
so go and bust that miff -
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You're not wrong there was a thread asking for something similar.
You can/could use a b12 harness for a gsxr, but you will find difference's,
like
6 wire ignition switch instead of a 4 wire.
The block for the CDI are different apart from the very early one.
And more small bits, and you still need to extend/shorten wires as parts will be in the wrong place.
The mk2 had electronic Speedo but you don't need to use That part.
Maybe better ever repairing you standard one or look at say a gsxf harness at least they still had the 4 wire ignition switch and same connector blocks for the CDI.
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As above, they come matched to the head, if you're buy a new head and it doesn't have the cam caps leave it.
You can put new ones on or swap them if needed but it's not good and very hit and miss, I've seen them to lose and you get cam float or to small and it locks the cam up.
Some people have managed to get a smaller one to fit by using value grinding paste and lapping the cam in. Like say it's all a bit hit and miss
Why do you need to change them?
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Are the starter clutch rotors the same size for the pullers over all the oil cooled engines?
Put it a other way, are the pullers for the starter clutch the same size/thread across all oil cooled engines???
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Are you thinking for using the gsxf stem to put in the b12 yoke? If so yes it should fit, best is the measers the length. One other think you may need to do, is make a sleeve for the top yoke where the stem goes in, as some top yokes have a different size hole and which ever bottom yoke you use you will need to sort the lock stops.
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Was the k6 the water cooled one?
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Gsx1100ef carb kit
in Air Cooled
Posted
Dose anybody know of someone who dose a good repair kit for the gsx1100ef efe 36mm carbs?
Thanks