wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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You've most probably nocked the clutch leaver without knowing.
Take the cover off the clutch master cylinder (on handle bar) push the clutch slave cylinder piston in slowly, it should then fit back on the bike. Pump the clutch leaver a cupple of times when the side cover is back on till you feel the pressure come back, refit the cover/lid and away you go.
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I know this was on here, but can't find it
Looking at removing the side stand cutout switch and remove the relay (saves space) which wires do you connect together ?
Thanks
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1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
I’ve got a B12 one in a 1127 power screen tuned motor it’s fine
Cheers, I'm sure I've got a b12 one in one of my boxes
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57 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
still available from japan but not cheap !!!!
12833-06B00-000 Suzuki Spring 1283306B00000, New Genuine OEM Part | Eblag
Yes that's not cheep, I think I'd just put a manual one on for that price
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The standard gsxr one listed it at £12 ISH
Was thinking it I could use a full b12 tensioner?
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Don't really want to put a manual one on.
They still do the spring but only as part of the full tensioner unit which is around £450
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Just rang Robinson's to order a new cam chain tensioner spring but it discontinued
Is there any other cam chain tensioner I can use?
Or is there any other spring off a latter model?
Thanks
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Try putting this in general and the total length from top of fork to center of spindle hole, I'm told there's a stamped number on the inside of the bottom of the forks that will help as well.
Sorry I can't be anymore help.
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Cheers FBB
Can't put a air box on as it's for the gs550/b6 project but it's a start for when I get to that point
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Must be some of you out in OSS would that's running a open end can and filters on a MK1 b6.
If so can you tell me when setting you have as a starting point for me.
Thanks
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Last time I did that was when I was a kit with my push bike
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Even some of the latter gsxr have gone back to ball bearing type for the head stocks
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Think they are 45 teeth or 43 teeth
15t front
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Try the standard size number of teeth and take it from there.
Quite sure if you ask there will people on here with part worn sprockets for a b12 wheel or front sprockets you could use
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10 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
Pilot jet(s) blocked
+1
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4 hours ago, TonyGee said:
anything looks better than them
Even a HD or a Ho*da
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Looks nice.
Not sure about the pink grips
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24 minutes ago, Evilston3r said:
I had something similar with my 1100 m , but that was 40mm carbs, I only got rid of the flat spot when I fitted an oem airbox , if I used pods or twin pods it had a really bad flat spot at 3k, and as I fucked about with jets needles ect, (carbs was completely rebuilt with oem parts, and sonic cleaned) it just moved up and down the range
The 40mm carbs are renowned not to work right without the airbox.
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If it flat spot is 6-7000 rpm it's the main jet you need to increase. Go up 2 sizes and see how it runs.
Why the last groove, to lift the needles, you'd probably find that if you lowered the needles you will get it serging lower revs and when at a constant speed.
6-7000 rpm is where the main jet is taking control of the fuel from the needles.
And welcome to OSS
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That doesn't look good to me, looks like your going to put the front wheel into the exhaust or frame at any time you ride it, sometimes a bad idea is just a bad idea.
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Your putting shorter forks in which are meant for a lighter bike, then putting a 19" wheel and mud guard on.
The first thing I'd look at, is on full comparison of the forks with the 19" wheel in place, will the wheel or mud guard hit anything?
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You may find it hard to get a off the shelf exhaust for the 650.
The sharp front end may have something to do with the rear end, sounds daft but sometimes bad handling at one end can be course but the other end, as you still have the standard 650 rear wheel with its not very wide tyre and the tyre will be mist match and compound ie the being a zr rated the rear being no where near that.
Just a thought.
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It won't harm.
What size tyre do you have on the front 120/70/17 ?
Also have a play with the tyre pressure, dropping it down to say 33 psi will make it a bit more slower
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Yes you can have two yokes welded together (fork part)
The bandit 12 MK1 also has the 43mm fork legs so if you can't find a gsxr yoke to cut up, you could use a b12 yoke.
Bandit 1200 - to dyno or dynojet?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
As @Gixer1460says you ever.
1. Leave the pipe off at the top of the engine.
2. Run pipe and leave it to the open air.
3. Put a new longer pipe on (from top of engine breather) with a air/oil filter on the end, can be got off eblag.
4. Put a longer pipe on (from top engine breather) buy a oil catch (eblag or elsewhere if you want) run new pipe to that, or use you favourite drinks can, make sure air can flow freely from can so engine can breathe
have a look through the projects section or do a search