Swiss Toni

I have some photo's of std seat & fittings. Will post them shortly!

Good luck with that lot, then!

Surely that should be RSTFM?

Stick with the standard airbox.

503cc per leg. SAE10.

Looks the part, too!

Coils with bonded in leads can be removed, if done carefully. I did mine on a Powerscreen because the leads had failed. Bit of a fiddle, but I wouldn't bother just to change the colour! Remove the surpressor cap, remove the orange heat shrink, and slip some black heat shrink over the cable then.

Hello! Looks like the cycle parts are ET, can't help you with the engine. Welcome to OSS. Pop Over to 'General' and say hello there.

Correct!

Dezza might have a point there, in that 'something' may be in the g/box, clutch/crank pinions and locking it up. If you need to get the head/barrels off, there are certain positions for the crank to be in, to facilitate an engine strip. But ... if it's definitely siezed, you don't have this luxury! Just strip the top end as per the manual (RTFM) But, be aware, as you can't put the crank where it's meant to be, there will be valves open, creating pressure on the cam(s) as you're loosening them. Do it gradually along the length of the cam, and if you can, find some way of holding the cam down in the bearings a few threads before the cam caps are off. This will prevent the last few threads in the lower cam bearing getting stripped out by the cam pushing against the cap! Head off, then hopefully followed by the barrel. Try the neutral thing first though!

The WP has a nice looking frame, imho! I like that 'chamfer along the top rail! As to your bits fitting, I assume the motor will go in OK, I know it's a PIA going the other way (watercooled to oil-boiler! WP tank is different too. Take Ricks advice!

They're not spacers ... they're dowels! They ensure the cover will fit precisely! Without the dowels, the cover can move very slightly. Enough maybe to nip the shaft.

But ... the head is Dot(less)! How so?

The shaft has to be bent then! Works ok (ish) with no cover. Slightly worse with the cover fitted. Worse again with it bolted up! The shaft is bent! You're pulling it out of line with the cover, and more so by bolting it up! Sheet of plate glass works wonders!

Well. I hope the new shaft solves the problem! Bit on the pricy side but, needs must!

@Hariii Have a look at the outer cover. Is the hole ok, and is it square to the shaft, ie 90%? If the bike's been dropped, the cover may be slightly distorted where the shaft exits. Shaft moves fine without it, binds when it's fitted! Knock the shaft back a couple inches towards the clutch side. Fit the cover. Now, get someone to gently tap the shaft back in, while you're watching it approach. If it hits the side of the hole first, (which it seems to do in your video) then finds its way in, instead of coming straight through, and you're positive the shaft's straight ... then the cover's the problem. When you say the shaft binds worse when you tighten the cover ... it's the cover (as long as you're sure the shaft's straight)!

As they say, 'A picture tells a thousand words'! Video's even better! Either the shaft's bent, or corroded at its contact points with the cases or, the hole in the casing is deformed, as 1460 says. Have you tried rolling it on your flat surface? Looking at your video, the shaft is definately the problem!

Got ya! @HariiiSounds like the shaft is definitely bent! Try to get a replacement, as you'll never be able to get it truly straight. As I said earlier, if you don't want to try changing the pawl springs, PM me and I'll give you my address, although I think a new shaft will cure your problems ... hopefully!

Pull the shaft out again, and roll it on a flat surface, glass/bench-top ect. That'll prove straightness (or not). Taking the spring off will do nothing, apart from leaving the shift drum in the position you've just placed it. The lever not returning to put the selector in place for the next gear change. If the shaft isn't bent, try a new shaft spring first. If that doesn't cure it, then think about changing the pawl springs. It's not uber difficult, just fucking awkward! Have all your new parts to hand. Remove the pawl mechanism, holding the two pawls against spring pressure. Keep one depressed, and let go of the other one ... carefully! It will probably drop out on its own. Underneath the pawl is a hole for the spring, and a small hollow plunger, which fits over the spring. These are tiny! Change spring, and replace the plunger over it. Now, this is where it gets awkward! Push assembly back into its hole, holding the plunger in position with your thumb while you replace the pawl over it, remembering what I told you about its offset groove. If you can keep the other one in position as you do this, it will only go back one way. Rounded end to the 'hinge' position. If you drop it, and it all falls apart, thats when you've got to take notice of which pawl goes where, because you now have two pawls loose on the bench! Daunting, but we all had to learn! Hold it down as you repeat the process with the other one. When finished, still holding both pawls down, insert the unit back into the shift drum, as per the manual. Another pair of hands might be helpful in your case, but not essential. It is fiddly, but not impossible with a bit of patience! Good luck! As an afterthought, if you're really not comfortable doing it yourself, stick it in a Jiffy bag with new springs, and I'll do it for you!

Yes! Leave the spring on the quadrant. Bend the two ends of the prongs slightly towards each other. Fit and try it. If still the same, bend a little more. Should now be ok. But, you still need a new spring! Get one now, or you'll end up going through the same ball ache a few weeks down the line!

The return spring on the gearchange shaft is most likely fatigued. As new, the prongs that fit over the post in the crankcases are touching each other. Some are even slightly crossed! This gives you the 'spring back' capacity to select the next gear. A common problem! Lots of engines have suffered from this, mainly unattended, because the rider being aware of it, now automatically 'touches' the lever in the opposite direction to snick the selector drum to the next position! I think before risking delving into the selector drum, changing the spring on the g/change shaft will solve your problem! To prove this theory, remove the spring, force the two prongs on the springs together, crossing each other, and then as far as they'll go. Re-fit the spring as per manual. This is the 'slight adjustment' your farcebook pal is on about! If this solves your problem, get on the 'phone 'tuit suite' to Robinsons, sweet talk Michelle for your 10% OSS discount, and order a new one. Seemples!

If you're going to change the pawl springs ... BE VERY CAREFUL! Bits are tiny, and will get lost. It's easy to work out what's what. The only thing is, be aware the grooves in the pawls are offset! They will go in the wrong way if you get them mixed up, and you're not aware of this! As ever ... RTFM!!!

Spot on! Great skills!

Good little bike, better if you didn't pay a lot! And, welcome to OSS, by the way!

Possibly speedo/brake hose clips to forks? Pop into 'General, and say hello, we don't bite ... much!!!