Jonny

I've heard many stories of bikes running poorly with pod filters (espceially single pods), but not at idle. The draw is so low it shouldn't matter. Plus there's no airflow issues because you're stationary at idle. I run an 1100EFE motor in a GS750 frame and also use K&Ns (twin ovals) and have never had an issue like this. Maybe the guy with the 82 GSX hadn't rejetted the carbs to run without the airbox... What are you using to balance them? Might be worth putting some gauges on when it's doing this and see if one carb is dropping when warm.

This doesn't sound to me like an issue caused by compression. If it were me, I'd try another set of carbs on it first. Sounds like you've already done all the things that would idenitfy the usual issues. If it works with different carbs, you know it's the carbs. You might have some sort of blockage in one of the fuel circuits responcible for idling. It take it you have completely striped and (ultrasonic) cleaned the carbs?

Never found anything that worked properly. Gave up looking years ago. This is probably as close as you’ll find: https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/294773789548?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=L7BZvGFwT-6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dppzeNacS2q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I have 400 Blandit clocks on an EFE-powered Gs750, but replaced the speedo with a GPS unit. I’m guessing your question is about how to fit the speedo drive on the GSX sprocket cover?

Thanks for this info. Super helpful! I have copied and pasted it so I can find it later.

Hi there, Quick one: I am running an EFE motor with non-standard clocks and no longer have the oil temp gauge in the cluster. I want to add one and was wondering if I can connect any electric temp gauge to the EFE sender or if the senders work differently. ie I need to match the sender to the gauge? Thanks, Jon

Just to add to the reading list, I can recommend Motorcycle Tuning: Chassis by John Robinson. It's like my Bible. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Tuning-Chassis-John-Robinson/dp/0434917249

Really helpful! Thanks for the info. when you lined it up, did the chain alignment look good?

Hi there, I have seen the swap done before and like the idea of upgrading to the OZ wheels. Anyone know what is involved in the conversion? I'm pretty sure I'll need spacers but what about disc offsets, chain aliagnment and spindles? I'd like to be able to cost it up full first as the wheels from eBlag will be around £800 on their own. Thanks. Jon

The photo attached shows the standard settings for 36mm carbs on a K and L model (89 and 90).

Ah okay. I knew there was a D-stamp in there somewhere.

I’ve never had a set rechromed but have bought a few sets from ABE in Greenwich over the years. They used to be £180 p/pair and I never had to buy a second pair for the same bike again.

I seem to remember reading on another thread that the restricted cams were stamped with a ‘D’ for Deutschland.

I’d try taping the pick up to the top of the seat, or somewhere where it is not enclosed, and take it up the road. You’ll know then if it’s a location issue with the pick up or not.

I have a GPS speedo too. The pickup probably needs moving rather any setting up. Mine is under the tail unit but if it is not in just the right place you get that fluctuation. Great looking bike BTW!

At least that is enough time for a new build!

Don’t suppose it really matters. IMHO, 2 is probably the closest so probably best.

I have an 1100L and the vacuum take off comes from carb 2. I thought they were all done like that?

The switches are fairly simple to rebuild. Often just dismantling and cleaning the connections will have it working like new. You can get many of the internal parts from Suzuki still.

Really? That’s interesting because I have an 1100ef motor in a ‘78 750 frame and the engine has to come out to take the heads off. It’s about an inch too short on clearance.

You could always buy some GS spokies and have wider rims laced on! That would be very cool!

OEM is the best. Most aftermarket kits aren’t up to the job on these bikes. I’ve heard good things about APE Trac King clutches though…

NGKs are great leads to use. I swear by them but Taylor leads are the most popular and about half the price.

Cable choke and pull choke are created using the same throttle bodies. On the cable choke models the holes on the carbs for the pull choke mechanism aren’t drilled out, but you can see them on the bodies. So you can convert either way.

I normally buy something from used from Eblag (Nissin/Brembo/Tokico) and then get a rebuild kit, if needed. At least you know you can always get the parts.