Zappa

Evening, thought I'd share some prices and options on the forks stanchions, prices all include VAT, some inc postage some don't etc Prices are for conventionals, 1200 Blando pig. Brooks Suspension: Apart from the massive choice of makes, engineering etc they do new replacements TNK or JMP £180-190 each leg + postage or rechrome service £200 a pair. AllBike Engineering ABE: Forks, discs shocks etc. Replacements stated on website as being stronger/better than OEM £160 each leg + post. Auction site: Various sellers £150-£180 per pair inc post. Philpots: £270 inc pick up and delivery when done, favourite by you good folks. HCP ltd Nottingham: £180 per pair + post. There were a couple of others but canno remember but old brain thinks between HCP and Philpots prices. Hope this list is handy for others. Being that the pig has fought me all the way (am halfway only, time or money), and being an unknown ride, I decided for the first ride year, it'll be cheapo jobbies, which spares me cash for better fork springs and bushes etc. Then if I keep, invest in upgrade later... Not going to be pretty...Fork GAITERS but should keep the crap out and chrome from falling off too quick, no shame here, cardboard fairings and gaiters were a top mod for dispatchers, along with not washing in the old days

Philpots again, they must be great, thanks Dezza.

Cheers Jonny, great there's still one or two old style motorcycle parts manufacturers still left in the London area that haven't been pushed out by developers or investors. I was a dispatch rider in London for a couple of years in the mid 80's, there used to be loads of bike shops etc, getting all nostalgic now...

You lucky Gee! ...cheap and skint is a good, so I tell myself every week

I didn't know they did the stanchions, I've seen a load of unknown origin on the auction site, but never know what your gonna get, will have a look around. Cheers

Just in time for Christmas excuse to the missus , I might get away with it...

Thanks again Fazz711, good to have another positive for Philpots. Cheers

Thanks for the recommendation Toni much appreciated, re chromes a plan now. Cheers

Thanks for your experience on this, I had a feeling that a re chrome would be better longterm for finish durability, but didn't want to discount the aftermarket stuff without info like yours. If I was flogging it, aftermarket would do the job, but I'm leaning to a re chrome. I remember a place up Newcastle way did a great job for me in the 90's but can't remember the name or if they're still going or still good. Do you recommend a place for a good re chrome?

Evening all, The money pit bandit pig has some lovely deep pits on the important shiny bits and wondered if anyone has bought a set of replacements from the auction site and were pleasantly surprised at the quality, or not, or decided on getting their originals rechromed? Over the years, I've had a couple of sets rechromed with mixed results, but that was over 20 years ago...This is a reluctant budget build, keep finding crap to sort, but getting there. I'm not after super fancy pogos, just reliable non leakers that don't need fork seals every week, and don't cost a fortune...don't want much do I

Did you get it back from him?

Have you tried calling Dresda for info? Dave retired last year, but Russell (who worked for him for over 25 years) has taken the business over, with Guy Fithen. They now have a workshop near Heathrow, near where the old Dresda factory used to be at Longford. Russell still makes the frames and Swing arms, whole bikes etc...and will also have the original build book for all the bikes they made, worth a call.

G'evening all, thanks for the welcome Toni much appreciated. Slowly going through everything without stripping the lump down, the cost of new rings and other parts put me off attempting that, this is a budget job for me at the moment. Here's some more pics of stuff I did to get to the above stage so far, I'm no super bike mechanic or engineer with a fully equipped garage but willing to give it a go to save on the labour costs and learn a few things along the way. As said before, I modified the standard headers and collector for the time being, as it seemed mad to throw away and buy new just because the collector collar had done the usual, plus the cost. I wasn't a fan of the ginormous suzuki can, so it had to go along with the intermediate pipe which also had a rotten end same as the collector, both ends had been previously repaired by blind havago after the pub. I'd scoured the net for a non standard second hand replacement, but all the good ones were sold, too pricey or kin loud, didn't want an ear bleeder to piss me and the neighbours off (I live in a blue rinse village now, not by choice), so looked at a Dekavic or B Widow, cheap for what you get. I then found the Delkevic 'new old stock' still in a box with all the bits that someone had surplus, that'll do for £100 delivered. So angle grind off what was left of collector collar, open up/grind/hammer out collector hole a little to take a 63mm OD st/steel pipe from an exhaust parts seller on Eblag £13, fit headers and tail to bike, cut new bit to fit the gap, with overlap for intm. pipe, and enough for inside the collector till it contacts the split plate inside (just like standard). Mark out segments around pipe cut piece to drill and slot, 6 slots, 5mm drill ends of each mark 25mm in from end of pipe to prevent slots splitting the collar when you fit stainless mikalor style pipe clamp on, and vibration does its best to undo your work. Cut slots with grinder and file rough/sharp edges till all smooth again, end result ready to fit on and get a talented welder to do their best. Make sure said welder first tacks the collar in place with the whole system together on the bike, then remove the system from bike, then weld the stainless collar to collector all round, of course using stainless steel welding rod, just like the accountants at Suzuki did... I wanted to use the standard style graphite exhaust pipe gasket collar thing than fits between the inner and outer pipe, and as luck would have it, the one that came with the Delkevic intermediate is a good tight fit to the inside of the fabricated collar, result! As you can see in the pics, the inside end of the standard headers come with a fat bead of weld in each pipe, yes this junction holds the inner and outer pipes of the double skinned headers, and also the mild rusty steel collars that locate them into the head, quite a flow restriction in my mind, so I opted to grind these down to sketchy wafer thin smoothish opening, maybe it'll be better or maybe a rattly not, will let anybody who hasn't fallen asleep yet know when I do. Cleaning up the standard stainless headers and collectors were done by hand with wire wool dipped in Autosol polish, quicker than expected. Hope this info helps anyone that fancies a bit of metal work on the weekend, and there are tons of used standard headers out there not being used. Have a good evening, cheers.

Any colour you like as long as its silver or white in this type of formula https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-categories/Paint-spray-nitro-alkydal-quality-Special/31083006110706.cyid/3108.cgid/en/GB/GBP/ Though I did skimp on primer and lacquer as Wurth are twice the price, maybe why the finish wasn't great unless your at 50ft But the silver is close to the original Suzuki silver

Thanks again, the frame is better now, the grease and crap was bad, but I was surprised how rusty most of the welds were under the thin factory paint. Blasting and powder coat was not in the budget (£250) so after two days of wire brushing, sanding and rust converter, primer, topcoat and lacquer (Wurth epoxy wheel paint etc £50) it'll last longer...I was disappointed with the finish as the rust converter residue has shone through the paint, but it's no show bike, I just want a reliable keeper to put a stupid grin on my face.