Jonny

The bike is now fixed and running! Thanks for the help! I'm not entirely sure what the problem was I think it may have been a combination of things. Certianly, blocking the vacuum off and running on primary helped but only on one set of carbs, on the others it was no better, so I suspect the original carbs I tried have a separate issue. Anyway, now balance and running!

TBH anything is worth a go!

K&N single pods on one set and K&N twin ovals on the other. I’ll look into that though! Thanks.

I’ll give that a go. Cheers!

Yes - that is correct. The vacuum hose is connected to the top of carb two on both sets of carbs. I have also tried with that outlet blocked off. I might have to try that again though... Thanks.

The exhaust from cylinder two is stone cold.

I had not thought of this, although if it was stuck open wouldn't the leak down test reveal it?

Hi there, This is the story: I had a problem with an inlet valve on my 1230 EFE. As it happened I had a spare head I took off a running bike, so I swapped the heads over. Both were standard. After rebuilding the bike, I tried to start it. It wouldn't run on cylinder number two, the other three fired fine. There doesn't seem to be any fuel getting into the chamber as when I check the plug it is dry. The spark seem fine. The float bowl fills up. Here a list of what I have done so far... Cleaned the plugs, changed the plugs, swapped the plug leads, swapped the coils, cleaned the carbs, swapped the pilot jets, swapped the carbs for a different set with different air filters, changed the manifolds, changed the vacuum hose, changed the fuel line, removed the throttle cable, checked the valve clearences, checked the compression (fine) run a leak down test (fine). What am I missing????? I'm totally stumped! Thanks Jonny

I'll put the 155s in then and see where that takes me.

Well I've had the Bandit carbs on a shelf for a few years, so it's not really costing me anything. I can always stick the std ones back on later but I'd like to try the BSTs and see if I can get a bit more out of the set up.

Unfortunatly that's not an option as it's in a GS750 frame.

Hi there, So I've got a set of Bandit BST36s with twin ovals that I'm planning to put on my 1230cc EFE. It currently running the standard carbs with 155 mains and pod filters, which I've had dyno-ed, and runs well. Any idea what jetting I should start out with to get me in the right area? I was thinking 155s again but I know these carbs are different design? Thanks, Jonny

I could be mistaken but I remember being told that although the Bush and TL rear wheels are the same, the sprocket carriers have slightly different offsets, due to the differing engine configurations.

I'm not disageeing that quality costs, just that because you pay more, you automatically get better quality. Example: Many people would buy a Sony TV over an LG TV because they peceive it to be better quality TV, it also costs twice as much. But for many years LG made Sony TVs. If you took the back off a Trinitron it was all LG components. Same with Apple moniters, which are made by a number of other companies including Samsung, who market alongside Apple with a cheaper but internally identical product. However, because of the marketing, there's a whole bunch of people who would never buy an LG TV or a non-Apple moniter. So my point, just because it's cheaper doesn't mean it's worse, just because its more doesn't mean it's better. These days more and more prodcts are made around the world in the same factories with different sticker on and different prices. For the record, I do run Wiseco pistons

The suspicion is that they are made in the same factory but you pay £50 for one with an OEM spec sticker. I have no idea if that's true myself but it often baffles me how much the OEM ones are for what is a pretty simple piece of elctrickery.

Hard to find but I believe the simplest fit would be Kwaka Zephyr 1100 spoked rims. I passed up a pair on blag for £300 a couple of years ago and am still kicking myself of it.

Thanks - turns out that is the number after all: https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Suzuki-GSX-R1100L-Headlamp-Relay-Assembly-38740-24X50-000/221682661676?epid=649904225&hash=item339d50f92c:g:yzoAAOSw-W5U04sO

Can anyone confirm if an Omron GM8S-S23 is the right relay for my headlights? Mine has no markings on it and a Google search of suzuki relay shows the S23 which looks the same but is not listed as a headlamp relay! Thanks, Jonny

That wasn't mine. It was taken at Exhaust Craft when Dave was making my headers up. I just used it as reference. I guess it just makes it easier to get in and out of the frame. Jonny

Since you asked - here's my two-penneth! I put a 1200EFE engine in my GS frame and I realised that the engine sat much closer to the front of the cradle than the original engine had. In many ways this is a good thing, but depending on the exact angle and the mounts you use, it may throw up a few interesting alignment issues. So in the pics attached you'll see what I mean: the EFE engine sits maybe an inch an a half closer to the frame. Jonny

I'll check them out too. Cheers!

There's a lot of useful info on the vehicle-wiring-products.eu/ website about amperage and usage so I think I'll follow their suggestions. I hadn't been aware of that site before.

Yes that makes sense. I have noticed common wiring colours over a number of Suzukis I have owened. Cheers! Jonny.

Thanks Jaydee. I hear what you say but the wiring diagrams I have don't list the spec of the cable. I just have the Haynes ones. The only fuse I have on the bike is the main one, there no fuse box - the loom is the original 78 one.

Hi all, I'm looking at doing some rewiring on my GS/GSX project bike. There seems to be a range of wiring thickness/amp variations. I was think going for a 1mm 16.5amp thin wall cable for most of the lights and clock electrics. Is that appropriate? Thanks, Jon