arnout

The VIN of my stolen GSX750S Katana is/was GR71AD104440... According to this list 1100 Katana's were numbered either GS110X- or GU72AD-

As far as I know there are 3 types. All share the same valve operating geometry though. - Slotted pad (GSX750) - With oil bump (raised oil feed exit) - W/o oil bump - newer type? Lumpy cams hit the oil bump, so this needs to be ground away. The chromed surface on the pad is thin and tends to peel off. Must have have some further notes/pics on this, but can't find these right now..

Wow.. The only parts I was ever able to scratch were the engine side covers. In most cases those situations ended rather poorly for myself though..

Well.. Despite the 16" front wheel the stock EFE was never a nimble bike due to the weight and given the length and trail (117mm). Lots of room to improve the handling like you suggest. But rather than limiting the focus on rake alone I'd say you'd better look at the whole picture, as donor part front ends come with their own dimensions that make up a large piece of the overall steering geometry. So instead of looking at just replacing the yokes (with raked triple trees??) take stock of the whole package first. One given factor is the headstock angle of the frame. This is a lazy 28 deg., which is also the reason why just swapping the complete frontend form one of a more modern sportsbike will actually result in a worse handling bike (as the rake on the donor bike was much steeper). So the easiest way to counter this is of course also steepening the rake on the EFE. But unless you want to start cutting and welding on the frame, the only way to do this is by tilting the whole bike forward by dropping the front and/or raising the rear. An alternative to this (apart from trying to find a set of raked triple trees?) is just concentrating on the trail number you're aiming at via an alteration of the offset in the yokes alone. Adjustable yokes have been available in the past from Spondon, nowadays because of improved CNC tools bespoke yokes have become more accessible/affordable for regular folk (but still expensive of course compared to donor parts). So.. What is the current chassis/suspension/geometry setup of your EFE? Measure and compile that data into the geometry tool below, and play around with the various variables to arrive at the desired trail. (It's a bicycle website, but geometry theory is the same for motorcycles) http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/elenk.htm Stock EFE chassis spec: Rake/Caster = 28/62 deg. | Trail = 117 mm | Wheelbase ≈ 1550 mm Typical 1000cc sportsbike: Rake/Caster ≈ 24/66 deg. | Trail ≈ 100 mm | Wheelbase ≈ 1420 mm Of course lots of other factors determine the handling of the bike too, like weight (overall, balance, position), inertia of rotational (engine) parts, rider postion, suspension, tyres, etc

To add further to Askamaskinservice's post: pdf of a service manual. Further webpart sites: https://www.cmsnl.com https://classicsuzukiparts.nl/ and of course Eblag.. Well.. what Blubber said on the electrics, so the charging circuit is flawed to put it mildly. Readup on this section of the forum to find the info you need. Starter clutches are a weak part too, especially after many years suffering from weak batteries. I have a personal hate for the stock CV fuel tap (swap for manual operated one), and the airbox missing on your bike is a pain to remove/install (main reason for using filter pods). Is it fast? It used to be the "Hayabusa" of its day, but today it can still be (very) fast if you want to invest the time and money.. But I'd invest in upgrading the chassis first, as that has dated the most performance-wise. So suspension, brakes, wheels and tyres.

What the others said, but I'd be a bit worried about the missing airbox and mostly (from what I can see) any form of air filtration. Mallorca seems like a sandy place, and after many years of running the engine unprotected the condition of the bores and rings will have suffered. Still a nice bike to have, but be prepared for having to do work on the engine.

I think I have the same manual that's missing the ESD wiring diagram. The (hard to read) GS1100EZ-diagram that I pulled from it seems pretty close to the wiring on an EFE though (apart from the instruments) so that may indicate similarity for the ESD wiring as well. Once saved a nice GS1150 wring diagram in colour onto my pc which at least should be of some help I think.

Suzi 1 ? (Semi) fond memories of the solid mass slowly extruding itself from the tin can and into the flimsy frying pan on a wobbly camping stove..

Perhaps looking for markings would help ID-ing it as a H*nd* box. If no partno.'s are stamped om gears or shafts, at least the sprocket will be stamped by the aftermarket(?) factory. Beside looking up that number also the spline dimensions on the output shaft should help with determining the identity of the gearbox.

A Katana doesn't have an ignition lock (cylinder). There's a separate steering lock on the headstock that -if I remember correctly- uses a different smaller key. The Katana ignition switch itself is a rather flimsy plastic affair so can easily take off undoing the two screws on either side.

Right.. Found in my notes unrestricted (normal) EFE cams are stamped with a D at the end. Restricted versions have G markings. I've tried looking for further info and pics to confirm this, but my search was unsuccessful.

Well.. Place an ad in the marketplace section if you're looking for OEM lines. If it's aftermarket (steel braided?) lines you want have a look at the various online shops (or Eblag) to collect parts to make your own hoses. I've used -6 diameter lines on my bikes, but others prefer -8. Be aware you'll need M14x1.5 adapters to be able to fit 90 degree connectors onto the engine.

No.. AFAIK all aircooled Suzuki's have these meshes. Ah.. Great bit of info (meten is weten ) As the GSX-R750L oil cooler probably is about at least twice the size one would fit onto an aircooled engine, I reckon that would point to the lower end of Gixer1460's estimate. BUT like he also hinted, we have no actual info on the size of the oil cooler (or hoses) in question here. So.. Dukeman, what (type/size) oil cooler have you fitted to your Kat? I'm still not completely sure whether bottom feeding oil coolers would drain out or not. I've never noticed an extra delay in the oil pressure light coming on though. So if not, I think the weight of the oil will however pull a (small?) vacuum inside the top of the cooler, and the equal size of which in oil would fill the sump after shutting down the engine. Right?

Ah.. Great bit of info (meten is weten ) As the GSX-R750L oil cooler probably is about at least twice the size one would fit onto an aircooled engine, I reckon that would point to the lower end of Gixer1460's estimate. BUT like he also hinted, we have no actual info on the size of the oil cooler (or hoses) in question here. So.. Dukeman, what (type/size) oil cooler have you fitted to your Kat?

Uhmm.. Stop looking at the sight glass? I doubt the oil cooler holds much oil as most of it is made up of voids to let the air blow trough. Perhaps the oil lines contribute to the extra oil volume at least as much or more, especially if the cooler is placed far from the take off points and a larger diameter hose is used. But still.. How much oil could it possibly hold? I think oil level isn't critical on these aircooled engines. So long you're above the lowest level and not starving the engine doing prolonged wheelies etc it's probably fine. Overfilling is said to be risky though.. The angle at which bike and engine are placed (due to shorter forks and longer rear suspension) does infuence the oil level in the sight glass a lot. Also keeping the bike truly upright when taking a reading is crucial too. Any ideas? Well.. I suppose the oil level eventually returns back to normal or else you've just overfilled it of course..?

Very nice. But "street bike"? Looking at the solid cylinder block and absence of any coolers I reckon it would overheat rather rapidly out on the road..

Yup, what Gixer1460 and Jaydee (and myself) said. I've tried a squish as low as 0.60 mm once, but marks on the head later showed this was not enough to allow for conrod stretch. I believe the manual states 1mm for squish (but may have read it somewhere else), which is the minimal value for the squish effect to work properly. I suggest reading up (Google) on the subject if you do not fully grasp what's been said here.

Deck height depends on the thickness of the head gasket and so also the squish that you want. Do a dry assembly first to measure the piston to head clearance (plasticine), and go from there. Base gasket(s) can be used to adjust the deck height. Milling the head is only limited by the valve (seats).

5678 site is @#$%! slow today

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┌──┐ ┌────────────┬────────┐ │ W O/W │ G Bl │ │ │ │ │ B/Y B/W │ B Y │ └────────────┴────────┘ Connector positions looking into the ignitor box from below.

Frankly I wouldn't bother. Look at it.. The paint is coming off and the wiring is a mess, how would it ever run again? Tell you what, I'll be willing to take it off your hands so you'd have space again to place and prepare a nice smooth running watercooled engine instead. No messing around with pistons, cams, clutches etc to make it faster and more reliable, but just nice and clean plug&play and power via chip tuning.

You can, but I would rather rely on the 15A fuse in the stock wiring. Bypass the switched 3rd phase loop like so:

Very good. In fact, I had the same idea.. Sadly though -as Dorkburger also reported- there was not enough room on my Kat to fit these. Also the rubbers had shrunk which would've made it difficult to attach them to the flatslides anyway.. Using different rubbers (shorter and closer fitting into the pods) it might still work. I tend to agree with Gammaboys revised take on the K&N pod filters stating that the closed back flange is of far less importance than the use of stacks/bellmouths. Which is why adding rubber stacks to K&N pods seems like a good idea. Finding stacks that wil make everything fit is the difficult bit.

Oops.. Completely forgot about this event.. (Was busy making plans for a 3-days trip to the Eifel instead)