arnout

Right.. If you have found the travel of the clutch isn't hampered by the different lever or other mods, then there most be another reason for the clutch dragging. Not exactly sure what you mean here. But the tangs on the clutch plates do leave indentations where they've been rubbing in the grooves of the hub and basket. If these become severe there is an enlarged possibility the plates might not free up as easily upon pulling the lever as the tangs get stuck in these notches. So another thing to check: are the indentations particularly severe? Mild indentations on the sides of the grooves are quite normal though. Removing or flattening these bumps is tricky though. A way to check if this actually is the culprit (or a quick fix if it is) is by moving the position of the tangs by altering the clutch plates stack (by adding/removing a plain plate) so that the tang wil sit on top of the bumps rather than in the indentations. Yup the later engines like the one in the EFE, had a slightly narrower center spacer that allowed for adjustment shims of different thickness to be added to solve the well known GSX clutch rattle. This end float rattle isn't a particularly serious problem though. It does the engine no harm apart from the fact the constant hammering is probably the reason why so many center nuts do loosen over time. (But this is kept from undoing itself fully by the lock washer). As for finding neutral at standstill, I suspect the gearchanger system you are using might not allow for the more subtle touch that is needed to select it. There is a knack to it, but once mastered you'll never have trouble engaging neutral again. At standstill slightly let the clutch out so the transmisson is put under load but not enough to actually push the bike forward. Now gently push the gear lever up from first gear position and the gearbox will easily shift into neutral.

> very lean Yes, I'd say so. I think you'll find the plugs are DR8ES though. Fitting the BR8ES type would take some effort as these are a different diameter! Compare the pilot and main jets sizes in your carbs to the ones listed in the manual. > raisers good? Seems like these should fit fine unless you don't want to drill new holes and want to use the existing holes that clairetoo suggested. (fine pitch M10)

I measured similar numbers on my ET hub. But also with regards to the spacers this only matters for the preload on the springs and should not affect the plates freeing up with the lever fully pulled. Unless.. the spring coils are binding or the clutch lever or cable in some way prevent full travel of the pressure plate. So that is what I would check if you haven't already. Maybe pushing on the arm on the clutch cover wil reveal unused travel? If so maybe a non-stock clutch lever was installed with a different ratio and less travel?

Your gudgeon pin measurement makes me think your calipers might be out about 0.2mm's. Because according to the EFE service manual the service limit of the pins is 19.980mm. This would also explain the low numbers on the piston diameters! It is however also a possibility that both parts are worn beyond the limits (but ~0.20mm wear is an awful lot on pins) , and your measurements are right. So first I'd suggest checking the precision of your instrument.

Works for me in Firefox and IE11. What browser are you using? Nevertheless retrieved another link for you to try: click.

No.. that's the service limit for the piston diameter specified in the manual. Cylinder bore size is 74.000-74.015, service limit at 74.080mm.

Here..

Looks a lot like regular EFE pistons to me. These should be at least 73.880mm in diameter though according to the manual.. So I wonder if you've measured them correctly (at the skirt).

Looked at getting said curved oil cooled before myself. Wanted to hang it backwards to increase the steering angle/lock and stop larger diameter USD forks banging into it, but the price and need for expensive hoses made me drop the idea. Went for B12 cooler and modified stock hoses instead. What's your reason for choosing a curved oil cooler (apart from the looks ) ?

I believe (Suzuki) speedo drives are matched to the wheel size, so the cable driving the tacho is turning at the same speed whatever (Suzuki) donor front end you're using. Worked out well on my EFE and Kat with donor front ends, as in that the speedo is still exaggerating as much as before.

Here's a pic of my (750)EX frame that I used for building my "Katana". Due to the different tank mounts ET/EX vs Katana I had to modify the Katana tank. Mounting the tank is still a tight squeeze though. It is the compromise I was willing to take to be able to have such extensive bracing. Not much bracing around the air filter area though apart from lateral bracing between the down tubes because I didn't want to limit the space for the filter pods. I felt the headstock bracing would be able to compensate for the lack of the extra tubes you usually see added to this area. Lots of bracing in other parts of the frame too which I reckoned were at least as important. (The horizontal tubes behind the swingarm mounts are just for looks though.) And I reckon also the overall result is very good as the bike feels very rigid compared to my EFE (that has a more modestly braced frame). No flex whatsover.

Suzuki colour codes 1100ET color chart Suzuki Lieferprogramm

On my old GSX750EX the clutch cover bolt at 4 o'clock used to be the culprit for the persistent oil drip from the bottom half of the clutch cover. Unlike the other bolt holes going through the cover and into the cases, this one is "open" on the inside of the engine. Fitting a copper washer under the head of the bolt solved my problem, perhaps it will on your 1100 as well? (Btw, do not swap this bolt for for a longer one!).

Ah.. Missed this one.. Usually I'm strickly "aircooled" anyway though.. But anyway.. Yes, very useful. On aircooled GSXs fitted with a large oil cooler that is. (Do a search for my rants). I have no grasp of oilboilers though (don't these have an internal oilstat?) No experience with the very nice looking Earls one though. Seems very expensive..! I've been using the cheap Mocal oilstats (OT/1) for many years myself, but only once had the oilstat stuck in bypass-mode. For my Kat I built an oilstat into de filter cover plate to be able to do away extra hoses and avoid the tight bends in them to fit the Mocal oilstat.

There's plenty of experience on here of people plumbing in larger aftermarket oil coolers. Do a search! A lot has been written about this and how to connect to cooler to the engine. The size of the new cooler depends on your bike's need for cooling of course. Is the engine overheating (quickly/occasionally?) with the stock EFE/1150 oil cooler? Bigger isn't always better, especially if you ride the bike in cold weather (too) which will delay getting the engine up to temperature (which is why I use an oilstat). The climate you're in, the way you ride the bike, on what roads/traffic you ride, and state of tune. These are all factors affect the amount of engine heat that needs to be shed. The stock cooler is sufficient in mild climates on a stock bike. Overheating will occur only in (hot) summer and dense traffic /slow urban roads with a lot of waiting at traffic lights etc..

I always liked the look of the clocks Steve Burns used on his Spondon Monster. From what I've found I believe these are from a kawasaki GPZ750R1 and/or GT550 (but i don't know much about Kwaks).

Well.. If the engine runs fine despite the low compression on the #4 cylinder (no plug fouling?), I don't think there's an urgent need for repairs. BUT the fact that you felt the need to do said compression test makes me think perhaps the engine isn't running quite right? I think the feasibility to delay the engine (rings) overhaul also depends on the availability of quality fuel, so danger of detonation/pinging can be minimised. Another possibility to consider is that perhaps the rings aren't worn out but stuck in carbon deposits (from worn valve guide seals). Still makes taking the top end apart a necessity (unless you believe in the magic powers of aftermarket oil additives!) though.. (It is said valve guide seals can be replaced without taking the head off if indeed these are worn on cyl. #4).

Perhaps an unexpected advantage of the bulky stock EFE clocks and housing to take into consideration, is that on unfaired bikes it does offer some wind protection/deflection! Not as much as a small (Katana) windscreen, but still noticeably so. Especially if you tuck in tightly behind it.

The layout makes it seem more complex than it really is. That's why the demand for full colour versions is so frequent. @Pedda, Not the right bike, but perhaps this high resolution 1100SZ Katana wiring diagram (made by Hus) can be of some use?

Nope, no better resolution versions than this one I found somewhere online (perhaps on this forum?). I tried enhancing the texts in photoshop, but although the readability can be improved somewhat I think time would be better spent on just recreating the texts rather than fiddling around with it.

Stick with the standard size YB14L-B2, but do pick an AGM-type battery. I've used a AGM Westco battery on my EFE1327 for many years.

The internals are bulky as well. (That's why the housing is so large the size it is). If you want to create something smaller, then you need to swap the oldskool/analog gauges and warning lights for more compact digital/modern versions.

Maybe the wiring diagram I posted in this topic a while back will meet your needs? The texts are a bit blurry, but the colours/lines are sharp.

That's clearly an 1100SZ Katana generator cover as it is stamped 4930. ("493" means Katana specific part). The rotor on an SZ Katana has a smaller diameter than the one on the "regular" ET. So I guess to suit both the smaller stator and rotor the different cover was needed. An ET cover will however fit onto a Katana engine, but I don't know if the stator will bolt up. (I'm not sure but I suspect the bolt PCD might be smaller. The subject has been discussed before on this forum or one of it's predecessors, so a thorough search might be useful).

Well.. It's clearly an 1100 engine, but quite possibly fitted into a 750 Katana frame. A view of the bottom engine mounts would reveal that.