arnout

That's an oil pressure switch, as the 750 comes sans the oval cover on top of the crankcase the 1100 has.

Hmmm.. 34mm seems rather big to me for a low revving 750.. (general rule of thumb is one size down compared to stock or otherwise suitable cv carbs) But if you'd happen to have a lead on a cheap set of RS34s I'd be eager to try them on the 750ES anyway..

Well.. The charging circuit has always been the weak spot on aircooled GSX's.. The stock reg/rec is the culprit, but even aftermarket Electrex regulators can break (I managed to break 2 units..) The voltage regulation is poor, and units close to breaking down are easily identified by the indicator flashing rate going up/down with the engine revs.. First actually measure the actual charging voltage both at the battery as well as the AC voltage from the alternator (as described in the service manual) to determine if the fault lies with the reg/rec or the alternator is fried as well.. Replacing the Electrex for a more modern mosfet-type regulator (like the Shindengen FH010/FH012/FH020) is a very good idea, as it is very reliable and delivers a constant voltage unlike the older type regulators..

Same size and pitch as the cylinder head oil plugs and the drain plug, M14x1.25 The oil plugs on either side of the filter cover are M14x1.5 btw..

GSX400T ? Is that the ugly chopper thing? Well.. at least it make a good candidate for a "make over".. Wire diagrams can be found in the service manual (always useful) or just Google it of course.. Already found you one of a GSX400EZ which might be close match, or at least somewhat useful.. Found it in this place where two more diagrams are available that perhaps may suit the "T" better..

Yup, just ask Kent.. I reckon though looking at the spec they'll recommend using uprated springs as that is what it says in the Megacycle catalog about comparable cams.. But ask Kent anyway..

Nice bike! I've always liked the 750ES in this paint scheme.. It strikes me as odd that it was marketed as "GSX750E" like it says on the panels instead of "ES".. Oh well.. As for installing different carbs the deciding factor is carb spacing.. AFAIK (but I really just know a bit about the earlier 750/1100 GSX's) all 750/1000/1100 GS/GSX/(oilcooled)GSX-R bikes share the same carb spacing.. Another thing to consider is spigot OD as different carbs would need to suit the stock manifolds.. Stock carbs are Mikuni BS32SS, but fitting larger carbs is no use anyway.. I reckon VM29ss carbs (OEM on early GSX-R750) would be a nice thing to have on a 750ES, but I'm partial to flat slides.. With fitting different carbs you also need to decide if you want to keep the airbox or use pods instead.. (both options have pros and cons..)

This, and get the EFE/1150 manifolds instead of the ones for the earlier GSXs as they are larger (due to the stock 36mm carbs vs 34mm) and so will make fitting alternative larger carbs a lot easier too..

Perhaps..

PM sent to clairetoo

We only paid a quick blitz-visit, but I was impressed with the large turnout and how well the Treffen was organized.. Also was surprised to find so many Katanas spotlessly clean despite the varying weather, unlike mine..

A cheaper way to get straight cut gears is using stock GS750 primary gears which are straight cut.. Only down side is the different ratio (99/46) which you'd need to compensate for somewhere else.. Oh.. And the larger driven gear may need some extra clearance machining in the cases in a few spots they say.. As I happens I don't have a set of GS750 gears I didn't take off an old crank a while back, and haven't had them on the shelf for years either not to use myself or not to sell if someone doesn't want them..

Ah.. A turbo engine! Perhaps you used a spacer to reduce the piston compression ratio for the turbo application, and so increased the distance between the sprocket and the crank and those on the cams? (Which would take up more chain length thus explaining running out of the cam slot adjusting range..)

What bike (engine) are you talking about? For a GSX1100 (if indeed that is the case) LC's of around 109 would seem applicable to me, but it depends on what cams (stock) you have and where in the rev range you want your power.. Not sure if I ever needed to skip a tooth setting the cam timing with slotted cam sprockets.. But double check your timing (as mentioned already), and always turn the engine over by hand first after having done timing adjustments.. Also check cam chain wear by measuring the length between x links (lookup in manual) while you're at it just to be sure..

My Kat has an EFE engine and stock EFE oil cooler but it runs hot (116 deg. C) in slow traffic anyway, so maybe you'd better get a larger cooler while you're at it.. Having said that, the larger the cooler the longer it takes on cold days to get the engine up to working temperature.. So best get an oil stat as well with a larger oil cooler..

Try another (known good) battery just to rule failure of the Motobatt out.. (I don't understand why people put trickle chargers on AGM batteries.. They don't need them, and are likely to do more harm than good..)