Gixer1460
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Posts
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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9 hours ago, Duckndive said:
OK try again how was the 1340 done then ?
Where the F*** is the popcorn smiley ?
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If radically different then carb jetting is obvious choice but often it's a fools errand as air flow, head flow efficiencies, spark timing & strength and engine cooling all will have an effect on exh. temps.
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Fractionally richer idles - Idle mix screws not turned out so far
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True, but mechanical works and can be 'tuned' - go OEM electronic and you are stuck with whatever is programmed into the box ie a 13k redline on a GS850 won't be pretty!
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Dunno what constitutes 'trick' anymore - certainly separate spigots with spring held pipes is race orientated and not too many race exhausts to choose from. Long primaries that look to be suitable for a 1127 vee sump but primaries welded to secondaries welded to tail pipe would be a faff on a racebike IMO? Did Micron do race pipes?
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If anything like a GSXR, one of the 'holes' in the well is to drain water via pipe through tank to exit below.
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18 hours ago, fab said:
wow that's a new one, never thought of that before. I wonder if it worked properly.
I think you'll find that all the GS, GSX and GSXR engines (up to end of Oil cooled) used the same ignition base plate bolt pattern so as long as the plate / pick-ups / rotor and CDI match, all can be swapped around. Not an awful lot of benefits other than ease of sourcing spares!
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10 hours ago, gorbys said:
On a later bike with electronic ignition advance you need to swap over the mechanical advancer from a early points style bike
What's written still doesn't make sense!
A later oem 'electronic advance unit' uses fixed pick-ups - like on GSX1150's. A Dyna S system needs the mechanical ATU fitted to 'non electronic advance' / dumb CDI's - eg. GS's & early GSX11's. A Dyna S needs no other CDI box to work, just like a set of points - they are wired direct to the coils.
You can use a Dyna S backplate and pick-ups without an ATU - for race applications - it'll have fixed timing so relies on other add on boxes to adjust that, and should be linked to a Dyna 4000. Another downside is it really requires an 'off-board starter' to spin the motor up as trying to light an engine with 35 degrees of advance at 400 rpm ain't going to work with an oem on-board starter!
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How did you 'run a points set-up' with a Dyna S plate? Its a self contained unit - it gets fed power / ground and has outputs to trigger coils . . no points involved?
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I've never actually seen a set of 35's, mainly 39's and 41's here in UK! I'm sure they'll work with your GS but they won't work like CV's as YOU will control the slide and hence the fuelling unlike a CV which won't allow wild fuel changes based on airflow - this is what ensures smooth running with CV's! Also very few people use slide carbs with forced induction, unsure why - its just not a thing! Although HSR42/45/48's are used with draw through's - but not with blow throughs!
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Understandable with all the throttle bracketry on the RS's - just looks like space to be trimmed to TB's & fuel rail? Immaterial anyway - just get it making noise first!
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Maybe the analogue one is configured to only accept one pulse whereas the digital is taking the two pulses so reading double? Does the engine sound like 1000rpm or 2000?
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Looking good! Shame the TB's weren't gotten a bit closer to the head, bearing in mind the cam chain tunnel pinch point. But will follow as carbs are just soooo yesterday
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depends on which unit you choose - most will have setable settings to allow use with 8, 6 or 4 cylinders, with or without wasted spark - Dyna2000's for example can either output 1 or 2 pulses per rev to suit various tacho's - obvs getting a mismatch will give half, correct or double correct reading!
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4 hours ago, Duckndive said:
On Methanol ?
Exactly . . . . and an oil change every pass!
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2 hours ago, stockcar said:
Mikuni BS36SS as std on the 1135cc bikes.........
Thanks for clarification - even if its the wrong thread
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I would say RTFM ! But no one seems to bother with manuals these days - god knows why . . . . Q's like this is what they are for!
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13 hours ago, Arttu said:
Only if you have an ignition controller with adjustable dwell control... Not good if you just want to replace the stock coils with stick ones and keep using the stock ignition unit.
Its true - depending on the coil make / type, there are dumb and active types! Dumb COPs are just like normal coils that charge and discharge without variation. The smart active types have to be told to switch on to charge and then, when to discharge - so can vary the spark point to suit what engine wants at that moment - quite clever really but electronics and programming intensive. Stick to dumb coils (generally two wire) for easy life!
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I thought EFE's originally came with 34's - it would explain the increase?
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They all seem to - haven't seen 'short' or 'shorter' COP's! I've just fitted GSXR1000's and they poke out 40 - 50mm on a 1127 engine.
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Useful facts presented after are not ideal! Maybe new - doesn't mean it's good!
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Battery is goosed! Has background volts but no amp capacity for loads!
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They aren't so sophisticated that the TPS really does anything of consequence! Some retard ignition at certain rpm's in certain gears to get through noise regs, some reduce power in lower gears - the 'anti - wheelie' syndrome, others do weird stuff no one even knows about . . . . . not at all like a true TPS that can be useful for a mapped ignition for example! Most peeps disconnect and carry on camping without issues!
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Don't understand the question - switch to single ignition ? Loads of peeps on here have used stick coils and examples can be found with a search - I, myself asked the assorted knowledge recently . . . . .
Oil Cooler for my GS1150 purchased from Grumpy1260
in Air Cooled
Posted
Some pictures of what you bought and front of engine will help as there are a few different solutions depending on what you've got!
Basically you have to fit the cooler (the radiator bit) under the headstock and positioned not to restrict the forks from hitting on max lock both ways. Cooler may be mounted fittings up or fittings down - personal choice but 'up' can get a bit more involved! If 'down' use straight or angled fittings to avoid headers and get down to oil filter level. If its a true GS1150 there should be oil cooler ports already - remove existing fittings and use either screw in adaptors or banjo's to terminate ends of braided hose. Its not rocket science, just takes some thinking and pondering about!