Gixer1460
-
Posts
6,381 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Gixer1460
-
-
8 hours ago, rerb said:
I got the exhaust 112 number from APE's tech tips section (https://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/cope.html)
claims it helps "release" the intake charge, but i have no problem messing about with different setups and seeing how they perform on the dyno
I guess we'll wait and see? Seems odd though as turbo's work by heat and releasing heat is counter intuitive !
-
Hundred's of 000's use MTC snowflake type lock-up's Inc drag racers - they can't all be wrong. Premier Street bike classes don't due to the insane clutch & power delivery they require.
-
1
-
-
Never known anyone, even the better known Turbo builders, to use cam timing in excess of 110/110 - certainly its my go-to max. with nearer stock numbers as a preference. I think your proposed numbers will be really peaky and not turbo suited - lower numbers reported to have better spool generally.
-
Most would be attached to the fuel tap so unlikely to come out that way if detached which only leave out through the fuel filler - bigger hole and you may be able to grab it with some forceps or long needle nose pliers!
-
Use ARP values - they are lower due to being lubed whereas stock done 'dry'. If you hold the plastiguage with a dab of grease or thick oil it helps with disassembly. Measuring using maths can go wrong - plastiguage is virtually foolproof so I'd always use that for clearances!
-
1
-
-
How do those economics work? 1 engine = 250 so 2 engines = 500 right ? How did u drive away with, what looks like, two whole bikes + a shed load of stuff for 500 - maybe the seller forgot to add a 1 in front of his sums LOL
-
That's pretty much how they work - copper bar slides between left & right output terminals and yes spring ensures contact tension.
Suzuki wiring colours run through the years for the most part so maybe something newer, like a bandit? may work.
-
I'm not seeing anything - I was expecting some sort of 2 stroke volumes of smoke, I'm guessing it's barely rich in the mid range - needle / emulsion tube territory!
-
The insides of these switches isn't rocket science but there are usually small balls and springs that fly out never to be found. So, to be safe, disassemble inside a clear plastic bag over a tray - one or the other will catch anything making a bid for freedom. Consider where the horn / ind. sw. is in relation to each other and be aware that sometimes other things need to be removed before getting to what you need to. Otherwise flood the whole assembly with solvent / switch cleaner whilst operating the switch back & forth - Its not the best way but usually works if sw. isn't FUBAR'd
-
Indicator relays are 'on' at rest hence the continuity. As the ind. lamps are grounded, the direction sw. selects which side is connected to the relay which then causes the unit to switch on & off. It shouldn't be possible to have all ind's on unless there is a hazard sw. or there is an earthed wire / s after the direction sw. Dirty direction switches could be a problem so good clean might be a good idea.
-
31 minutes ago, Fazz711 said:
What no 5*
LOL's - unless you run a turbo, ain't needed . . . . . . for us at least unless you've got an 'E Type' for giggles!
-
I don't think any fuel pipe these days is immune to attack from 'E' rated fuels! Best to treat whatever you use as a service interval item and replace it annually or at worse bi-yearly! Modern EFI stuff all uses that hard plastic which seems to cope although I bet that becomes embrittled after a few years!
-
2
-
-
I guess you 'could' do that, although the weld would be softer than the original cam - if it was steel !
Most cams will be / are chilled cast iron which precludes welding altogether hence why they get ground 'undersize' to increase lift and the grinder avoids the lobe tip to preserve the hardest point. Cams with worn lobes are usually scrap as uneconomic to recover.
-
11 hours ago, Villeboi said:
Does these camshaft measurements sound right at all?
My repair manual says that intake should be 34,650-34,690mm and exhaust should be 34,360-34,400mm or 34,650-34,690mm depending on the model year ( I don't know what year the engine is). The cam lobes also looks to be not symmetrical but is that normal?
I'm thinking might these be some reground cams already because these have these self made slotted cam sprockets also?
If the 'stock' sizes are 34.xxx, a re-ground cam CANNOT be larger, its impossible! Regrinding takes metal away from the base circle to increase the overall effective lift but it can't be more than a stock ht. lobe unless you start with an unground blank forging - termed a billet cam. Dialling in cams using slotted sprockets can be done using stock cams, just to vary the characteristics of the engine, swinging timing around can move the power up or down the rev range - to a degree - so slotted sprockets don't necessarily denote 'special' cams!
Common sense says if you are having cams repaired (rather than replacing with s/hand items as a cheaper option) why return to stock ? A degree of lift increase would be expected as normal, the cost is likely to be cheaper as i'm sure most cam grinders are unlikely to have stock profiles on hand because no one asks for them so will have to create one at your cost!
-
1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:
Ian also depends on ignition system too, ie on ignitech im feeding each one with a positive daisy chained from power relay, and trigger side goes to ignitech for each coil.
I'd have imagined your M ignition efi system to be quite fancy not stock style pictured ?
I'm using a Dyna2000i presently and I know they just about manage 2.0 ohm per output so 1.2 ohm cop's done parallel would get the smoke out! The M8 Motec could do full sequential ign. but needed a 4 channel ign. amp. I'm thinking about a Micro squirt Mini pro which will do full seq. everything & is more sophisticated than the m8 and can drive cop's directly (I think)
Ah the joys of carbs and Dyna's again!
-
1
-
-
Bugger ! I got it wrong - ah well new pins coming and I can get the wires sheathed neatly this time!
-
1
-
-
Hi, I did a search which was a waste of time as search function 'finds' threads containing any word in a question not limited to actual words! Anyway i'm putting some GSXR1000 stick coils on my GSXR1100M and I know i've seen a diagram of the wiring on OSS somewhere but can't find it! I've wired up a break-out short loom but i'm doubting how i've done it. Without putting my multi meter on it, I think ive paralleled the coils instead of in-series - so a diagram would be good to check! 4 More plugs on order, just in case!
-
19 hours ago, Jaydee said:
They aren't really o-rings. They are thin washers impregnated in to an o-ring. It's the steel washer that gives the o-ring its integrity.
Normal style 100% rubber o-rings are not suited in any way to this application.
Referring to the 6 head gasket o-rings, not the 4 rubber o-ring on the oil drain tubes.
Except its the drain tubes that are the problem! Pretty most all gaskets and o-rings from pattern part gasket kits can be used in a build but certain ones like these, then OEM are best, but you only find out after the pattern ones fail so moral is use OEM kit and (generally) do it once.
-
14 hours ago, TonyGee said:
did you do a compression test to confirm it was rings ?
Which is not ideal for that diagnosis - only a leak down can point to rings . . . . . . . or valves for definitive answer!
-
1
-
-
I like original NOS products - have used New and S/Hand kits - only downside with S/H is you'll need to source some new plastic hoses and ferrules unless you position everything as previously installed. Whilst the Wizards of NOS stuff is supposed to be excellent / best in the world (if you believe Trevor's self promotion) some of his stuff is good. Really Nitrous isn't for road bike use - a few hits and its gone, even for a dragbike you start searching the pits for refills after half a dozen passes. As its a bit 'old tech' these days i'd guess buying new would be best option . . . . . . dry hit kits for EFI bikes work well - if that flavour floats yer boat!
-
So you have a dead cylinder and why do you suspect piston rings? What fault diagnosis have you done to confirm? Honestly rings is pretty much the last resort for most faults, in fact I've only replaced rings once due to smoke on start up, caused by previous owner never actually running the engine in - baby'd it everywhere for 2 years so bores glazed over!
-
That's cheap for four - normally that would be each!
-
I'm not big on what these airboxes are supposed to look like other than the CSML diagram but the top chamber looks like it should be a sealed box whereas yours is open ie. you can see the inlet ram pipes. This would make sense if the chrome end caps aren't sealed as air needs to bypass these to get to the lower chamber where filter is, then through filter into the sealed upper chamber. It looks like its not filtering anything presently!
-
Hate to say but it looks like a severe case of bodgery as that looks nothing like a Suzuki Filter ! ! ! See here - https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs850g-e01-e02-e04-e17-e18-e21-e22-e24-e25-e26-e34-e39_model13499/partslist/FIG-12.html I could be wrong but with all the silicone I don't think so!
Help/tips to improve my 92 1127
in Oil Cooled
Posted
At that age it'll have shim adjusted valves - not really a beginner mechanic job IMO and they are probably why compressions are a bit low. Bad running carbs at idle / low speed will no doubt be idle jets - need solvent and / or ultrasonic clean to be sure.