Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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13 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Just don't!!
Do it right, no excuses! Valve clearence is there for a reason!
Deffo concur ! A correct clearance will, a) ensure the valves are closed and not leaking and b) provide sufficient time when seated, to transfer heat from the valve into the seat and head to prevent overheating / burning valves or pre-ignition / detonation. Even reduced clearances when cold are not sufficient as heat expansion closes the gap and you will be back to square one. Unlike tappet style valve operation where the gap grows with use and gets noisy, buckets close the gap so you don't get the audible warning - everything just gets FUBAR'd
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"why didn't you move them?" . . . . . . . "Not my job fella!" - an unfortunate comment on society these days!
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Never seen or heard of it being done that way and query its actual effectiveness! Reasoning - turbo spool relies on heat pressure ie, hotter exhaust with increased flow make turbine spool up - agreed? Adding (what will be cooled via intercooler) air, pre turbine will slow the process! Doesn't matter that it is 'boosted' / pressurised air, its pressure is insignificant compared to the exhausts back pressure its being added into. Plus, excessive retard used on 'closed' throttle will over heat the turbine blades in turn destroying them in short order. This is fine in competition and with large budgets that can afford new replacement turbos every event or even during but pretty un-economic for a street vehicle. And, why would you need high boost launch control on the street anyway - most things are traction limited in lower gears with restricted boost !
Turbosmart are smarter than me and a lot more experienced but i'm still struggling to make sense of this - in an everyday scenario!
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Or dirt in pressure relief valve - stuck closed, pretty unusual but not impossible! As you've found, these engines make waaaay to much pressure, so most of the flow gets bled straight back to the sump!
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4 hours ago, DAZ said:
Do long stroke 600/750 cams fit the 1100 heads ?* Are the cams noticeably "hotter" ? Is it possible to run an intake cam on the exhaust as happens on the gsxr1000s ? Is it worthwhile ?
* The short stroke 750 ones I know will fit 11/1200 tappet heads.
I'm sort of concluding that if the 'long stroke 750 heads' don't fit the 1100 bottom ends (maybe due to cylinder spacing?) then it is unlikely to cams will transfer over either?
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24 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Is there an option 4: shim head 750 cams in a shim 1100 head?
Are they any different?
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5 hours ago, DAZ said:
Having read the article you posted I have to ask :
if they built an 1186 motor specifically to drag race why would they not set the valve springs pressure to suit the expected rpm limits of the motor,to ensure it didn't float the valves ?
why didn't it have a rev limiter set so it didn't over rev , soft cut limiter aren't new
I see the 'spitting fix' is mentioned and seems to have taken the normal shims and made them into 'Lash Caps'. These were popular with big V8 engines mainly to stop the valve heads getting mushroomed when using stupidly high spring poundages! I would imagine making up loads of modified 'shims' to account for different clearances would be a PITA but a deeper retainer well / taller shim is definately a 'fix'.
Rev limiters and especially 'soft cut' limiters are somewhat pointless when you leave the line essentially at peak rpm and then make 4 additional gear changes within a 9 - 10 second pass. You shift based on reaction to the shift light (if you have one) which will be flashing like a christmas tree so missed shifts are enevitable. When more 'robust' valve actuation methods were available, a shim head isn't maybe the best choice for a drag race engine. I used a 1100M head (unmodified shims) with NOS for drag racing and never had a problem - just sayin'
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14 hours ago, Breadman said:
This bike is going to be ugly and very rough around the edges.
You ain't lying there LOL! Do you have shares in Goodridge hose and fittings?
Personally, I don't see the point in a lash up just to get a noise out the pipe, only to rip it all to pieces to re-do it and make it pretty! Why not build it how its going to be, build it right the first time and only build it once? Yeah it takes a bit more time and impatience gets in the way but doing it twice isn't quick either?
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Part #27 (on that diagram) isn't a hose its a seal? on the end of the butterfly shaft! And it would be unusual to have a mechanical clamp fixing of a hose to that bracket - especially if is a vac. hose just fixing to the fuel tap! Didn't these bikes have a cable operated choke - that cable would be secured to that bracket IMO!
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10 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
Could convert to shim under bucket.
Spitting shims seems to be one of those things people worry about bit never actually experience.
I don't know of anyone who it has happened to but suppose it could happen
These don't use 'buckets' - that conversion would be far more engineering than just changing to trad tappets. As said spitting shims is a urban street myth mainly only experienced by racers who don't know what rev limits are! Don't buzz the engine and you won't spit shims! With 1100's the power is on the slide after 10.5k generally so trying to rev to 12k is utterly pointless!
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When you said 135 - 140, I thought thats fair enough Fella . . . . . then you said KPH so it all translates to sub 100mph which even for a 30+ year old 750 GSXR is barely scratching the surface. If you are usually happiest on the two wheel tractors and bimbling around at 'driving miss daisy' speeds, you've now scratched the itch, seen what its like and so its time to part ways IMO. No matter the age, if you don't get the 'rush' from a ride - generally after the 1st or 2nd time - you probably never will. As you get older the reactions slow up, but if you've never had to use them when younger, you'll lack the muscle memory which could get you into trouble - called Mid Life Biker syndrome!
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7 minutes ago, Joseph said:
As it stands i don't get how a catch can will avoid the issues described ?
If what you're calling the catch can is of the "hose stuck in an empty Heineken" type ?
Or are you talking about a built item with some kind of particularity ?
And I don't understand your question or lack of 'understanding the issues' ! All blown engines will suffer ring blow-by which leads to crankcase compression. If this isn't relieved you'll suffer oil leaks and gasket failure from over pressurisation. The std. crankcase ventilation has generally been found to be insufficient so more is added. But if routed like most OEM vents, any excess oily waste will be deposited directly in front of the rear tyre ! ! ! Or if routed through the frame to the rear where it tends to drip on the tyre ! ! ! A Heineken tin is better than nothing as long as you remember to check and empty it - its served many a RWYB'er over the years. But a purpose made vented catch can is better and can route the condensed oil back to the crankcase (if desired) or has more containment volume for a serious puke out! I guess there is nothing stopping anyone running the vent hose to the airfilter pre turbo - and you'd certainly be aware of oil issues if they did occur!
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8 hours ago, Solestriper said:
I think the guy on you tube with gs1000 means if you buy new aftermarket get one with standard bore size or bigger if bore size to small it is a problem bleeding.
Do you believe everything you see on YT? Why would you need to enlarge a Master Cylinder size to bleed it up - you'd just end up with unsatisfactory brakes!
Because an idiot on YT can't bleed small cylinders doesn't mean the cylinder is wrong, just that the idiot can't do the job properly!
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Its not an issue - and reaching under the tank becomes second nature after a while!
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So, exactly as standard then LOL! Probably best to stick to Suzuki - just more 'modern'
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I've had the bolt back out through cranking with a low battery, also the advancer won't help as engine will be trying to fire max compression which could spin the bolt out. Never heard of particular starter problems!
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Q. - do you generally use the side stand or main? If former, I'd say you've got a leaky fuel tap! Pistons are tooooooo clean!
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5 hours ago, DeegzARG said:
Edit: i found a pingle fuel valve locally but I have to rebuild it and it doesn’t have a vacuum inlet. Would that be an issue?
Depends if you don't have a memory span longer than a goldfish and remember to a) turn it on before riding off and b) turning it off after you've finished!
If you have good sealing float valves in the carbs, turning the tap off isn't so important, but if not any tap will usually be a problem!
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10 hours ago, Suzukisam77 said:
Are the valve guides hard to remove and inspect?
Yes! And if they are out, they get replaced not re-used!
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16 minutes ago, Safra said:
What chrome? that looks like polished aluminum with a clear coat over it to protect it
Sort of agree! Chromed aluminium is unusual as it doesn't take to electro plating process very well hence why it's anodised more often which is a dye process.
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I can't actually see whats wrong with them! They are pretty custom but if its a rim repair a good wheel fixer should be able to do it ?
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I think it should be 78 - 90 - 78 . . . . that would add up and is also the generally accepted carb inlet spacing for big Suzi's
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3 hours ago, Nick_C_Hotrods said:
You could get plasiguage and modify a set to fit by using grinding paste
One maybe, two is risky but all eight - no thanks! I'd want them properly line bored and that costs!
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Hope you've got all the cam caps otherwise its virtually scrap metal!
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anti lag valve?
in Forced Induction
Posted
If you know there is lag - just roll into the throttle earlier! Problem solved with no added complications! All the early race / rally drivers adopted this approach and used to mash the throttle before the corner entry!