Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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I fitted the std. 'M' curved cooler with a R6 fan between the seat frame rails on my 1460 GSXR. Fan wired through relay & thermo switch in sump.
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20 minutes ago, Ted M said:
That’s a dot head on that motor in the picture. It’ll have a serious CR if that’s on the 1340 motor
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58 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
As I said. I have data that proves they are effective.
You aren't the majority, you (maybe) are the exception!
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Not unusual to see head coolers added if the OEM head cooling lines changed to Goodridge Braided type - everything from small 'token' sized to larger than main have been fitted but few people know what effect they have - just knowledge that additional cooling will be of a benefit plus the extra oil capacity (relatively speaking) is always a bonus. BUT coolers MUST be in airflow so fitting them inside or behind fairings will render them pointless, also your thermostat may be operating at too high a temp . . . . OEM GSXR's were never fitted with thermostats, says Suzuki thought them irrelevant?
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Capacity should be cast on a plaque on rear of the cylinder block - usually LHS.
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8 hours ago, Dukeman said:
Interesting - my image was from Robinson Foundry BUT was for an 1127 engine whilst yours was 1052 . . . . obvs deleted on the later engines hence confusions!
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57 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
I think they sit on the bottom, I don't feel like opening a head to double check. Look at the parts diagrams.
They do not feature on parts diagrams ! ! ! Hense my earlier reply.
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Probably in the Haynes manual.
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All good - making a pair of matching gears wasn't clear!
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15 hours ago, McLean Racing said:
As i said on facebook. The cam chain idler is assembled wrong. The plates at the bottom of the tensioner need to be on top under the head of the bolts.
Somewhat agree - the parts fiche and any photo I can find show nothing under the rubber isolators - nor on top! As a ferrule is included within the isolators any securing bolt can only clamp up so far so no further crush can occur, so I think there are extra redundant parts there!
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Forgive me here as I know jack about gear cutting but you seem to be planning on cutting a single gear - 1 tooth less than stock? I always thought gears (for any ratio) were made as pairs due to relative geometries ie both are on shafts with fixed separation so changing tooth count on one messes with tooth engagement ?
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On 11/23/2024 at 7:22 PM, imago said:
you only get three goes at pressing them apart and back together before they're scrap. So there's not much call for it and people are reluctant to pay a big price for something which you can't put a full warranty on because most if not all parts are SH.
Interesting - why only 3 times? What is the limiting factor? Costs would be obvious issue but pin and bushing reclaim methods are possible if that is the issue?
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14 minutes ago, delphino said:
I believe it’s too pricey. I've learned quite a bit more about head gasket repair. It helped me a lot.
I don't know if you ever try it?
If only an AIR cooled engine had a LIQUID cooling system . . . . . it might work ! ! ! I think you need to do a LOT more learning!
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13 hours ago, McLean Racing said:
U can see how close the RH bowl is here and i hadnt even got it into the rubbers yet
I must be thick or blind or both but i'm not seeing the issue here? If the rack is fitted into the rubbers, they should move forward and maybe angle up at the rear so if anything gaps should increase? I'll admit I've never tried this combination but generally, RS's will fit where CV's once resided!
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1 hour ago, Gsx1100er said:
non standard ignition switch ( brand new supposedly with correct resistors fitted )
Gotta be the 1st suspect! Just because it's new is no guarantee that it's working correctly! Once that is eliminated, disconnect everything and re connect 1 by 1 with ign. sw. on until fuse pops - then fault find everything on that connection!
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Could but respond better with further mods for airflow!
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'Horses for courses' . . . . . 10.5k rpm, 4 or 5 times for a few seconds a lap is not the same as 30 - 40 seconds constant load. The rods may not experience 'significant stress' but the loads DO stress related components, particularly the oil / lubrication system. High output engines often suffer rod failure due to either clearance issues and bearing failure or plain oil delivery / pressure loss, leading to catastrophic destruction. I believe rod 'snappage' can be attributed to excess / over revving - generally never an issue with a turbo power adder, nitrous on the other hand is well easy to over power/rev a rod!
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NGK or possibly Champion are a go-to for aftermarket plug caps. Generally won't have the oval rubber cover but easy enough to slide the old one off - its only a water shedder so not important to actual ignition running!
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For that era, unless you are incredibly lucky and find someone who has a set squirreled away - VERY unlikely - you'll have to use aftermarket and whatever quality it will be! Lucky it's not a performance built so a little slack here & there is ok!
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All the liners look to be proud to a greater / lesser degree! Surprised the machine shop never offered to skim / surface the face a) flat and b) perpendicular! Honing angles also look somewhat 'flat' ?
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So, effectively a MAF sensor may be a better choice? I know Bosch used a MAF system in a lot of their designs - obvious advantages!
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1 hour ago, Arttu said:
No, it's not. At least as long as we speak about individual throttles per cylinder.
What makes you say that as I respect your thoughts. If taken from one cylinder I'd agree but through a smoothing / balancing tank, it should give stable enough depression for load sensing - don't one of the aftermarket ECU's use MAP to determine cylinder sequencing -same difference?
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Sparkie used to have a Hippo on gas to over 250hp - worked for years, don't know of any failures!
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15 hours ago, dupersunc said:
Do you have a map sensor on a carbed engine.
We're discussing ignition units here
anything that has a throttle blade can use MAP sensor! More accurate Actual load sensor compared to TPS!
how to check frame straightness
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Tape measure and straight steel bars can check everything - helps if swingarm is fitted. Chalk line on a good flat floor, centre frame over it so headstock and SA centred and square, drop plumb line from headstock bearing / shaft to line, measure from headstock to SA mounts and axle blocks, fitted forks would help show any headstock twist.