Gixer1460
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Posts
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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31 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
I,ve ran HSR's on Draw Thru,s and they close fine with a push pull cable
Not the same Clive - Atmospheric air pressure as opposed to boosted air pressure or more correctly low velocity against high velocity!
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Sacrificing a cheap stainless steel manifold gives flanges and some stubs as a start of a turbo manifold!
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The only flatslides i've ever seen used with boost have been Keihin HSR's used on draw through installs. The general wisdom is - if used with blow through, the air pressure acting on the slides stops / hinders the closing action making them heavy to close even with a push / pull throttle. Obvs this is a problem in an emergency situation as open throttle will allow fuel & air = boost / power! So, yeah but with that caveat!
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2 hours ago, Duckndive said:
TBH in hindsight i don't think heat soak will be a major issue unlike on carbs which have float bowls etc
'Tis true, injectors hold miniscule ammounts of fuel and fuel in rail is continually recirculated (providing its not a deadheaded system!) Most injectors also have wiggle room in the injector 'cup' and are isolated via o-ring so not a lot of direct heat transfer.
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Probably water drains, 'sposed to be opened at a service then re-plugged.
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The sump also has auto filter bypasses if oil is too thick / cold, so if the stat is closed, oil will still circulate via filter bypass - not ideal but designed. Not a fan of thermostats - something else to go wrong IMO. I think oversize coolers that require a thermostat just shows that the cooler is too big! Look at cooler size designed by Suzuki for the EFE which was adequate for everything below racing levels of heat . Big cooler = style over function springs to mind?
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I stopped reading after 'Diodes ARE switches'!
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And to be technically correct - diodes don't switch, they either conduct a forward voltage / current or block it.
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I'd be surprised if a clutch inner will go through a throttle outer without being too tight at 1st bend.
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Two pick-ups, rotor with one bump = 2 pulses per revolution. Translates into two actual sparks & two wasted per revolution. BUT the ignition tach output could reduce this to one pulse / rev to suit oem tacho's? Short answer either 1 or 2 = 50% chance of being right!
or wrong! 
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Certainly seen worse . . . . . and done by pro's! Equal length pipe requirement is a myth (IMO) especially in blown applications
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Ooooh ! The fashionista hose police will be on to you! Black AND blue fittings ! ! !
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If it was a case of needing international shipping, i'd search local bike breakers in NZ for Yam R1 / R6 RR's - about as good as you can get! And cheaper!
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The HG will seal for a bit if you use Gaskacinch or similar but unless the block is wired it will leak eventually - sorry!
Best get a Cosmetic MLS gasket for reliable long term solution.
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A word of warning for you - non Suzuki and OSS content in particular is frowned upon around here! Whilst it maybe applicable to what you want to or are doing, it ain't motorcycle or OSS related so it could get pulled!
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10:1 pistons may be a bit extreme - spacer plate advised! Buy the best you can afford - ignition control with turbo's is everything!
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I would guess that with the linkage configured that way it'd be easier to buy two cable kits and make your own as routing is going to be long and twisty !
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I was under the impression that all the long stroke bottoms could take all the long stroke heads regardless of valve operation ?
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Beg to differ - there are alternatives that could be tried. Turn turbo around so inlet is on RHS and Exh inlet faces engine and you could raise it to almost exhaust port level - VERY short pipe runs for excellent response / minimal heat loss, Gravity oil drain possible, Boost up pipe on RHS so looks different, wheel clearance better. There are always alternatives . . . . . . . possibly LOL!
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1 hour ago, El Gringo said:
I did wonder about running all the boost/vacuum signals from a manifold but it's getting a bit tight for space. Might be worth revisiting that idea.
Doesn't need to be huge - a 30-40mm long piece of 22mm copper with two end caps makes a chamber then use 3/16" copper brake line for hose nipples - easy to solder together and add a piece of flattened pipe soldered on to make flange, bolt to frame spine or similar under tank.
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I'm aware of filled blocks either epoxy granite / sand / cement but I believe its more of a rigidity thing - they barely run more than 30 seconds so overheating isn't of primary concern when your pushing 50lbs of boost ! Doing the head as well - maybe not so easy to do as any pockets of trapped air 'could' explode the filling pneumatically? Its all a bit ghetto - easier to get a solid billet of aluminium, bore 4 big sleeved holes and numerous stud holes with a slot in the end and bingo ultra solid, rigid block!
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2 hours ago, El Gringo said:
I've got one carb top to to boost gauge, one to the pressure relief valve on the plenum and the fuel pressure regulator is on the inlet rubber take off that normally feeds the vacuum tap.
The first two I don't understand the plumbing! The last one is fine although I would prefer ALL inlets to be connected to a common collector / tank with anything needing boost or vacuum reference signals from that. Connections to carbs other than pitot tube boost reference could lead to some strange actions / responses IMO. Just my 2p's worth!
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And . . . . . . unless you are doing that on a dyno or up a hill on the road, both of which put the engine under load, you are just pissing into the wind! Static in a garage won't tell you anything.
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Unless the wires are 'potted' into the plastic plug (unusual) you should be able to de-pin the connectors, pull wires out, re-make connector (after pushing broken wire through) and job done . . . . . or just connect to top of solenoid using insulated connectors! Blandit wiring seems overly complicated - why use only one wire when we can use 3 or 4 !
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1200 Bandit swing arm swap
in Oil Cooled
Posted
So, let me understand the logic here . . . . 13 trips (back and forth) @ 6,000 miles each = 78,000 miles ! Average fuel consumption for truck & trailer, say 25/gallon - 78000 / 25 = 3,120 gallons @ $3.00 / gallon = $9,360 ! ! ! and maybe a month to accomplish? Wouldn't it have been more sensible to hire a removals co. with a semi to do it in single hit - got to be less than 10 large? Oh and didn't factor in wear & tear on you and the truck, both of which sound like they need maintanence LOL!