Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Don't understand the question - switch to single ignition ? Loads of peeps on here have used stick coils and examples can be found with a search - I, myself asked the assorted knowledge recently . . . . .
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Depends on how DIY capable you are as s/h Suzuki throttle bodies will need modification to fit - especially to GSX type engine inlet rubbers - Arttu here could advise.
Cost probably comparable to RS flatties once you factor in aftermarket ECU, HP pump and sensors. Then you've got mapping the ECU and likely dyno time. Some ECU's are 'self learning' but mainly aimed at auto market due to size. Unless there are future power mods then EFI doesn't necessarily make sense - but when has that ever stopped anyone !
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2 hours ago, tony17 said:
no pictures needed .the question is does anyone know where i can get a thicker gasket? not to analyse why
And less of the attitude! You are asking for our help, our questions are trying to establish what you have got and what will suit. I can easily tell you to get a copper gasket as they are available from 0.5mm through 5+mm but really doesn't help, does it! A) I'm not telling you the 'where' part, B) Is your set-up configured for a copper gasket and C) No one can tell what a 'thicker' gasket is, or what thickness you require! These things are not one size fits all.
And, as you've given this task to someone who doesn't seem particularly 'pro-active' (if its taken 11 months to go nowhere), and you yourself don't appear to be 'on the spanners' - just provide some info and pictures as requested and I guarantee you'll have your answer, if not, best get to the shops and ask for a 'long weight'!
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+5 on rear . . . . . saves front tyre wear !
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If its pumped, it can go anywhere above oil level - its why lots choose oil filler cap. Even -6 maybe to big! The pumps usually use 4mm bore pipe so that's your guide. Yes centre of the clutch access plate and I used -10 but I had multiple breathers, -10 cam cover, clutch cover and -8 from oil filler hole! If this is a competition bike which requires a lot of clutch servicing work, a hose in the plate maybe not the best place so anywhere else 'fixed' should work if located a 90 deg to clutch rotation to avoid flung oil?
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You'll have to cut the two pairs apart down the middle and re-space them - not difficult, just fiddly. Don't forget the fuel rail will need similar cut but must be sleeved to remain fuel and fuel pressure tight !
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I would normally say - discount anything upstream of the carbs, leak wise - as very rarely will a leak here cause issues. But if the engine responded to restricted airflow with the 'finger test' it may be air filter related - wrong one, displaced or none at all? allowing too much air - worth a check, just in case!
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Gravity or pumped return? Isn't a -8 a bit big if a pumped return? Whatever the connection position MUST be above static oil level with engine off after a few hours or IT WILL drain backwards into the turbo! Crankcase breather can go anywhere to suit - I put one of mine in centre of cover to avoid oil being flung into the breather!
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Hot & melted connectors indicate high resistance so won't help but RR's of this age are notorious failure points so . . . .!
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wow! That's a lot of cranking compression for a turbo - not saying it won't work, just unusual!
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Exactly same process - just more plumbing to deal with!
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Bugger ! And down the hole as well - have to sneak up on that one . . . . . left hand drill bit I think?
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I don't think the bore spacing is the same, but can't swear to it!
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Can't see how crankcase pressure could pop a valve seal off - the pressure would be 'on' the seal, not under it! V seals usually fail due to age or getting mashed by the valve spring retainer. Over filled oil and parked on side stand usually / can result in smoke. If the top end is wet or 'coked' and you are fouling plugs then probably the carb tweak has gone the wrong way? Has it been dyno'd or had a wideband lambda used on it - best thing for tuning IMO!
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Majority of Suzuki sprockets use same spline / shaft size also big Kawa air cooled / early w/c also same. Just use https://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/
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49 minutes ago, olivier said:
Hi thx for your reply. Do you mean I need or don't need the Split collars with my stock manifold ?
" so the split pieces aren't required." I did say!
As regards the brackets, I'd say, that exhaust isn't original to that bike, hence different brackets and why 'original brackets' don't fit!
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I believe with that exhaust, the split collars are built into the header pipes ie. the thicker collars so the split pieces aren't required. Normally the pipe is straight and the split pieces are positioned around the pipe, secured with a cable tie, inserted into the head and all restrained with the clamp. With yours just insert into port and restrain with the clamp - sooooo much easier.
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If Bakker did build the frame for PVM - a German company - it stands to reason a) all the literature / brochures would be in German and b) that the frames would 'generally' comply with TuV rules (if it was to be used on the road) As Bakker have confirmed that this frame was intended for racing, it may have been modified such that it wouldn't be TuV compliant - in Germany. But as the owner is in Denmark the TuV issue should be immaterial but I guess compliance with Danish build and use rules will be required if the bike is to be registered for the road. We have the MSVA test in the UK for home built vehicles to establish valid construction and identity - something similar is likely to exist in Denmark!
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Without going back to page 1, I can't see any mention of what pump you have? Pressure should only drop when pump is off - is it cutting out? From video your base fuel pressure looks like 0.2-0.25 bar? which is bit under 3.0 - 3.7 psi and would generally considered high as bike carb float valves can't hold more than 1.5psi ish static pressure. I don't know how this would affect this problem. I don't know what's wrong . . . . . . . . . but it ain't right!
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Why do OEM's have to make a simple operation - lights on, dip or main, so complicated - as a 'rider aid' or 'for rider benefit'. KISS is the best policy IMO!
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On 7/13/2025 at 4:53 PM, Duckndive said:
There are gallons of oil being pumped into the head and rockers studs may impend the flow though i used stock on my turbos ..."awaits the there 5hite comments"
Not getting into this minefield thank you but re the HD studs question - check out the tiny orifice in the brass jet that feeds oil up the studs which jells with the other forum post regarding pressure ! Seriously the volume going up the studs is NOT restricted by the studs, its just a cavity that oil flows through - actually tighter cavity = faster initial oil delivery! If the pressures quoted are correct (they seem bit low to me) but if you watch, oil doesn't piss out at obvious high pressure from the rockers just good volume which would indicate ok pressure with good volume.
This discussion will go on forever - do it if you want or don't do it because you will never get a definitive answer!
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But unfortunately 'modern' is newer and works, 'retro' is old and doesn't (mostly). Bandit stuff is good and functional.
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Certainly won't help if there is charging issues! Reading the 1st post again - didn't notice the misfire / flat battery bit . . . . . . you've got a dead R/R = not charging at all!
We this side of the water can choose to run lights on or off so the effect of no switch is unknown to us!
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I's suspect the three red shrink wrapped wire joints . . . . . they look like twisted wires and then shrink tube insulated - could be soldered but suspect not! Could cause volt drop. Otherwise I think the bike 'may' have the lights powered from the alternator direct so may not show true volts if engine not running. If it does then best to get newer R/R and have all 3 phases into it and output to battery, whilst re-wiring light switch to source power from fusebox / battery whatever the state of running.
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Gsx750f wiring diagram, cdi and tpi questions
in Oil Cooled
Posted
They aren't so sophisticated that the TPS really does anything of consequence! Some retard ignition at certain rpm's in certain gears to get through noise regs, some reduce power in lower gears - the 'anti - wheelie' syndrome, others do weird stuff no one even knows about . . . . . not at all like a true TPS that can be useful for a mapped ignition for example! Most peeps disconnect and carry on camping without issues!