Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Why not do the easy way and use thicker or multiple base gaskets?
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Basics . . . . . Fuel, Air and sparks!
#1 Does it have fuel in tank? Is that fuel getting to ALL carbs, Are float valves working as required, What do plugs look like?
#2 Filter fitted or no - what state is it in if fitted? Is throttle moving slides or butterflies in carbs?
#3 Do you have a spark at the plugs - good or weak?
Answers help with diagnosis! We may be mechanical wizards but ' my bike doesn't work' doesn't help identify problems!
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Bottom breathers are usually fluid drains ie. condensed oil or water, so blocking that is not good long term due to potential build up. As stock a hose will extend down to back of engine / swingarm pivot area that may be open or plugged (that should be opened during a service to drain any accumulations) Generally breathers from engine to airbox shouldn't be blocked as build-up of crankcase pressure will result in weeping gaskets or case joints.
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Yes they are EGT ports - Sean does do some serious stuff when he puts his mind to it!
Now just gotta spend another 10k to make it work right LOL!
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Update : I tried a couple of 'Key from Code' places - even sent photo of the code on the ign. lock and all came back with " not a recognised code! " Bugger! So got the switch and lock off and went round to local locksmith who 'might' be able to cut one from the lock . . . . . but he only works Tuesday's so left it there. Came home to do other stuff and whilst rumaging through odd boxes in the shed, came across a ring with 3 suzuki keys and one 'onda - You couldn't make this up!
One odd Suzuki key sort of fitted the fuel cap lock but it barely turned! So out with the WD40 and oil and after about 20 minutes of gradually turning back & forth - it opened. Tank had been drained when last used but the fumes / oils / moisture had made the locking bar all furry & sticky - Anyway result one 
Tried that key in the seat lock - no problem, plenty loose so seat off and lube lock - just in case - result two . Went back to locksmiths with the two odd keys which I was sure were the Ign. Sw keys but no. So took the lock assy. back and tried the single key - worked perfectly - result three! All's well that end well !
Now can start the recommissioning - Flatslides are locked solid . . . . . . . Ho Hum ! ! !
So I found an odd ign sw. in my 'spares' that I thought was Suzuki but wasn't - it was 'onda and I remembered when I rewired the Purple BigCC Kat, I used that as it was simple. Now i'm guessing i've got another 'spare' Suzuki lock that fits those two odd keys!
Anyway, going to get a spare or two keys cut for the GSXR - can't be doing with just a single key! But annoyingly without further disassembly of the lock barrel / security rivets etc., there are NO key codes on the lock or the key! So lesson for everyone, 91 GSXR's are a pain to get keys for!
And buying another s/hand lock set is great but you have to / usually have to unlock the original barrels to get them out of fuel cap and seat lock to change them - I'm not taking a Black & Decker to a sub 4000 mile old bikes fuel cap!
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Never really looked at the original before (roundy roundy racing isn't my thing) but I guess as a dedicated race bike the packaging has to be tight enough to not affect chassis geometry whilst allowing potential 'quick swap' of engine complete with carbs if necessary? With all mount plates removed, that engine looks to slide out, easy as - very neat! Also I wonder why LHS rear brake . . . . . maybe old Brit Bike rider LOL!
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Bike has been stored so long that i've managed to loose the keys DOH! I've tried a search on the site for advice threads but it only comes up with associated words! So anyone know exactly where the key codes are that can be used to order keys from a vendor? I assume in the ignition lock but as that is serious disassembly (security bolts etc) I'd like an idea before going 'gung ho' ! BTW its a GSXR 1100 M.
What's the betting the original keys show up right after I get some new ones ! ! !
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Ha Ha Ha! Not surprised it was overheating - it is from 125 / 250 sized 'onda bikes!
So where is this pic from as it looks like an odd collection of Suzuki loom colours for a charging system on a GS1000 ?
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Anything mechanical will wear in use and polishing WILL remove metal otherwise the finish wouldn't change! You have comparible numbers from two different micrometers - and in the 1/10th's of a thou range - that would lead me to trust them and order bearings to suit. The number stamps are really only for factory use as the guy doing the measurement isn't the one selecting the bearings down the line!
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19 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Actually I'll correct myself. Apparently there are some 5 wire GS stators. I've never seen one!
This page gives details of what to do with the spare wires....basically just leave them disconnected.
Which would seem to indicate (in the OP's picture) that it wasn't wired correctly! Use one yellow, one white/blue and the yellow/green and connect those to the Electrex R/R Yellows. The remaining spare yellow and white/blue should be isolated and connected to nothing. What a palava !
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2 hours ago, wobblegob said:
Put another breather from the oil filler is this enough or where else would you go from
All I can say is with mine, I had the std cam cover plus another -10 welded on the cover, a -8 from the oil filler plus a -10 from centre of clutch cover - can't have too many!
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The APE washer thing is a new one on me! Only ever used std washers - copper & steel as Suzuki designed.
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Check out 'Electrex' - well trusted! Easy to fit - nearly plug & play
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Ignore the air filter as it's pre throttles so can't affect AFR to degree required for diagnosis. Lots of stuff will affect carb running! A good & full service with everything back to stock if bike is basically stock - I trust you have a manual - if not, why not? Get one as they are essential!
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May not require rebuild - increase crankcase breathers / venting first.
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Old plug ceramic colour method is a bit 'hit & miss' with unleaded fuels - they tend to 'show lean'. If the bottom of the thread is black / sooty its rich, brown to tan is about right IMO. Ideally use a wideband lambda but with a short open exhaust it can read leaner than actual due to atmospheric oxygen contamination.
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Why - looks fine to me, one might say a bit rich actually! And from lack of soot in the dump pipe, you haven't pushed it yet!
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Get a manual, read it and check the jetting in the carbs to that stated in the manual - would be a good start! Then clean the carbs, get the airbox on and carbs back to std. jetting and try again . . . . . . then come back for better diagnosis as we'll have something to work from!
BTW - we hate . . . . . "my bike doesn't run, whats wrong" type questions ! ! !
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Its Biden's fault . . . . . . if you believe Trump
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On 4/3/2025 at 8:44 PM, johnr said:
motocross throttles are under a quarter turn from shut to open, but not for push pull throttles.
I used a MX 1/4 turn on the Purple Big CC kat whilst I had that - single pull cable with a roller quadrant so cable exit was parallel with bars - neater routing. Never had any problems closing throttle whilst just using RS flattie spring tension. Also had two step fitted, bit of an animal without bars!
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Whoops ! Wasn't obvious!
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Does the stock GSXR have a caliper bracket? Most OEM solutions will mount calipers to fork legs directly for rigidity! It is highly unlikely a 1988 GSXR caliper will mount to a 1981 GSX fork leg without DIY bracketary! A 220mm dia disc seems small for a GSXR - like you are using the GSX discs? In which case, why bother as brake performance will be exactly the same. Better solution would use whole GSXR front end - wheel, forks, yokes & brakes into the GSX chassis!
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With a 4 cyl you'll have two orange / white (usual suzuki) 12v+ Ign Live and two different (for 600) Haynes says white to 1&4 and Black / yellow to 2&3.
If you get a big bang, timing is 180 degrees out so coils diff coloured wires need swapping!
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1 hour ago, Marc clayton said:
You don’t have a pic of the coil wires on the bike do you?
mine won’t fire and I’m thinking I’ve got the wires fitted wrongThe OP was a 'fly by nighter' - joined, and stayed here for 5 days, just long enough to get his bike fixed with our help!
So don't expect a reply!
Its hard to get the coil wiring wrong! Two terminals with two wires and coil will work whichever way they are connected!
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CDI replacement
in Air Cooled
Posted
Reading this again and from the OP post - a CDI / TCI / ECU for a 4 cylinder engine won't work - properly - with a 2 cylinder engine. Well not without some clever / dodgy rewiring. So buying a 550 or 750 unit would be pointless!