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Gixer1460

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Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. 27 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

    You still have the stamped VIN number what needs to be taken care of. And that's something they're really strict on in The Netherlands and here in Tasmania, if that looks dodgy the strip the paint till where ever they see fit.

    In The Netherlands that's checked every time the vehicle is in for the annual roadworthy test, in Tasmania when the vehicle is also up for a roadworthy test, or a random check from Transport.

    You think the 'crims' haven't got that covered? Cutting out and re-welding panel stamped numbers, welding up and re-stamping VIN numbers - there is VERY little that has been tried and defeated by a crafty crook! Its great that the cloggies check every year but would an average mechanic / MOT tester be able to tell if the numbers / plates / VIN's had been tampered with? Probably not with a time crunched, non detailed look!

  2. 7 hours ago, lowriderade said:

     Is it based on resistance or something. Or  is there a part that turns 

    Its both LOL! The body face has brass pads that a pin in the shift drum rotates over - usually 5 or 6 big pads + 1 small one for neutral. Depending on the sophistication and signal output to the CDI/ECU there will be different resistance values on the output wire dependant on what gear the shift drum pin is touching. Obviously the switch has to have the correct pattern to match the rotation of the shift drum - I wasn't aware of any difference until recently (if a difference actually exists?) and of course the resistance values have to match what the ignition is looking for or not, if you are trying to defeat it!

    If a bump changed the behaviour of the ignition I'd guess the sh. drum pin was barely making contact on an un-restricted portion and the bump moved it into 'restricted mode' position ? ? ?

  3. Depends if you want it permanently mounted or not, with or without a gauge? NEVER before the turbo - back pressure and heat will kill it in short order! As close to the turbo outlet is ideal ie. try to get at least 12" / 300mm upstream of the exhaust end outlet. If not a permanent fixture, the sensor can be shoved up the pipe, wrapped in foil just for tuning sessions then removed for use - not ideal but it works ok!

  4. 6 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

    And how do you get a matching license plate? And the right paperwork?

    Unlike a lot of the world, UK registrations are linked to the Chassis Plate # when 1st registration made and stay with the vehicle for life until scrapped, exported or owner wants a 'personalised' registration like, say RR 1 on a Rolls Royce - that reg # would cost an absolute fortune if it was to come up for sale!

    So, the tea leafs nick a car but obviously can't sell it with no paperwork so they obtain a V5 rego document for something similar or something that is beyond reasonable repair and transfer its 'identity / chassis # / reg plate' onto the nicked car. Now you have a 'clean / legit' car that can be sold although it isn't what it started life as!

    V5 sales were rife 5-10 years ago - actually illegal in itself - but included a bit of the original vehicle or a pile of rust . . . . . for restoration or usually making stolen cars, seemingly legit! harder these days as DVLA have eventually got wise and ask for a lot of documentary evidence to re-issue 'dormant' V5's to new owners!

  5. 9 hours ago, Dezza said:

    How do you see the colour if the device is stuck down the spark plug well of an oil cooled engine? The colourtunes I have seen have all been aimed at the car market. Easy to see when used on a 1979 1600 Cortina.

    If playing with carbs its likely the tank is off so looking down the wells should be easy enough + dark enough to see flame colour better? IMO the only engine they made sense with, was the original Mini's - plugs at front, directly behind the bonnet!

    • Like 1
  6. 9 hours ago, peter1127 said:

    Just take the pressure to the fpu from the plenum. Doesn’t need dynamic boost. 

    Wouldn't that give a lean miss? The pitot should always be a better choice as it acts faster to pressure change - that's its whole reason! I've no axe to grind here - carbs are hard enough without having to contend with pressurised air AND fuel . . . . . . . I prefer EFI!

  7. 2 hours ago, clivegto said:

    Yea what's a colortune ? 

    You've been around for a few months / years / decades, so I can't believe you've never heard of or about the Colourtune device! Its from the era before EFI when carbs were fitted to everything - only good for idle tuning but perfect visual feedback immediately on adjustment.

  8. I always though of 'power jets' being a main jet supplement ie. extra to & independent of, the MJ and non-metered at WOT use! The needle and emulsion tube are usually the only thing that regulates 'mid range' running with actual fuel flow through regulated by the MJ

    • Like 1
  9. Seems too repeatable / exact to be fuel related as load will vary due to rpm / gearing which determines fuel flow? I'd still plump for something electrical - but don't know what as all the usual suspects have been replaced - assuming they've been sourced from 'normally running bikes' to eliminate a 'like for like' problem swap?

  10. Whole range AFR can't be fixed by changing the MJ alone! Both the pilots and the needles will need attention IMO. re the plumbing, I'd have 1 tee off the main line then split that with another tee to feed each pair of carbs - seems would be more equalised to me?

  11. 2 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

    Start with 30% bigger jets

    Not really helpful - which ones? Pilot? Air? Needle? Main? This is why jet kits were developed - they done the leg work so they just work more or less from the off!

  12. Wtf is a 'space cylinder' ?  If you've rebuilt the slave  and replaced the line, I'd say you've still got air in there! If the slave piston is pushed all the way in, its real difficult to bleed air out and get fluid in, so its better to start with it about half in with some fluid behind it then connect to the line and master. You won't know if the clutch is dicky until the operating mechanism is working!

  13. Really not advised unless you put a proper jet kit in them - CV carbs mostly don't like the disturbed / unrestricted airflow these give so the jet kit has to mask this and fuel around it. Personally I like Dynojet kits but others are available - and its not 'just a single jet' so DIY solutions are rarely easy / satisfactory.

  14. Never had any dealings with the guy, nor would I ever want too, but this is symptomatic of lots of 'small business start-ups' - they are not prepared to put in the initial capital to produce product to cover overheads and sink any profit back into the business over and over until they become self sustaining - only then should the profits produce a dividend to owner as reward for the hard work / slog to get to that position. I know of one shop that does the 'Rob Peter to pay Paul' business model and has done for as long as i've known it, only difference is they don't shaft the customers and will / do deliver - eventually! Its a bloody hard world currently for the little guys but Martek or whatever they are called now aren't helping themselves (or rather they are but not in a good way!)

    • Like 4
  15. 59 minutes ago, justin said:

    Grab a multimeter and check for parasitic draw. Easy enough, check you tube as easy to follow. Basically, you disconnect neg from battery. Then link back to battery using multimeter. If you have parasitic draw pull fuses until it stops and then check that circuit in detail. Poor connectors, chaffed wires, etc. 

    This would be my suggestion - batteries that go flat are either due to something being left on (unlikely as most things are ign. key switched) or something is energised via damage in the loom or in a device - a parasitic draw. But to kill a new battery overnight is a pretty big draw ie. 6Ahr battery over 12hrs is 0.5A / 500 mA draw.

    • Like 1
  16. 2 hours ago, Wee Man said:

     Yonks ago I used an old drinking bottle for catch can.

    A Budweiser (or similar beer varieties) can used to be std. fitment at the Bulldog Bash - no catch can, no racing! Not that they were hard to find ! Wedged into a gap or held with a single zip tie - them were the days!

    • Like 3
  17. As APE is an aftermarket seller of 'mainly' race orientated pieces it would be reasonable to assume any 'similar' part may need honing for fit and maybe adjustment in the valve seal area - but saying that if the outer and inner bores suit the head & valves I can't imagine any reason not to use (usual caveats apply) The GS was just a slightly less complicated variation of the Zed motor after all!

    • Like 1
  18. Please DO NOT blindly bore to spec's - manufacturer or internet! Give the pistons to the person / company doing the boring so they can bore and hone each bore to suit each piston - have them numbered to match corresponding bore so they don't get mixed up. A nominal 0.002 - 0.003" clearance is usual. If the boring outfit is good, all their measuring tools will be temp controlled to ensure accuracy, they will also want to know the application as racing & HP intensive uses need slacker size, whilst a quiet & long life road engine is better with tighter end of tolerances.

    • Like 6
  19. On 5/5/2024 at 4:58 PM, Upshotknothole said:

     Interested in more top end, the RS38s already make it boring to ride around town legally. 

    If that's the case why do you want more 'top end' - just where you can't use it? Bar Room HP is great - but Stoplight to Stoplight accel bottom end is FAR more useful! A 1216 kit will benefit all through the range.

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