Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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If you are worried about starter kickback and can't retard ignition (shouldn't be advanced anyway at start rpm's) just add a switch in the coil + feeds, have it off till starter has crank up to speed, 3-4 seconds, hit switch & ignition.
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
And was it?
I guess!
The 1st batch of out of the van pulls were in the high 170's / low 180's! Although more would be nice, i'm ok with 190ish HP - the fiddling is mainly to correct AFR which dips into the 10's low down, 12's in midrange and just a little fat at WOT - so combination of pilot / fuel screw / needle and accel pump should get it nicer.
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17 hours ago, clivegto said:
Sounds expensive for a project
Ordinarily I'd probably agree but its a 'project' in that it needs the rust on the pipe being re-blacked, odd nicks & scratches addressed and some work to paint / decals!
If someone wanted a mint stock bike this would be a good starting point, and as the collectors say "its only stock & original once"
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I have to admit I've never seen anyone 'vacuum set' a rack of flatslides. . . . . probably due to Suddco's info above which does make perfect sense. I know I adjusted mine with a 3mm drill bit when they got fully dis and re-assembled, I'll use the airflow meter on them, once dyno work is done - just to check.
I can't see a 1 or 2 degree ign. error causing this kind of problem - a 4 cylinder engine is 'unbalanced' due to its design and crank balancing only takes some of the vibes away - can't cancel them all. A 1 degree ign. timing error is probably within tolerance when you stack up other tolerances - cam timing / chain wear / slack being a big influence? Besides, after 3500-4000 rpm, timing change have little effect with these 'agricultural' systems - 3D mapped timing as with EFI, is a different beast - exact numbers for any throttle position / engine load / torque requirement - but even there a +/- 1 degree change has little measurable / felt effect at any particular point. Of course it could be pinking / detonation and my old 1186 L engine (12.5:1 CR) used to suffer that during summer up one particular hill (Dyna 2000 and 40 deg timing) but it was certainly identifiable.
I've never considered this engine design to be 'smooth' and does have certain rpm ranges that vibes are more or less prevalent - you wanna ride my daily if you want vibration and agricultural tractor level feeling! No offence but maybe you are just 'atuned' to a vibe that most others wouldn't notice?
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Saw a good original 1100 slabby - Red & Black, near stock condition, original exh., could be made A1 with a bit of work. Offered to me as a project but a) don't need a project b) slabby's don't float my boat, but if it's of any interest @ around 5500, give me a shout and I'll pass on details.
Ian.
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16 hours ago, Blubber said:
Nice !
Should be fine for a groceries bike
Are there any pics of the bike?
Only as a turbo - and they've been published on here on odd occasions, nothing as NA till I fetch it back in a couple of weeks. Plans - hmmm . . . . I want to ride it, I never have yet even though I've owned it 25 yrs! SWMBO wasn't happy when it was turbo'd and she's less happy now 20 yrs on, & I'm no longer 45 yrs old
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Took the GSXR over to Mr Mills this afternoon - basically hasn't been out of the garage for 20+ years and last time was for a Big CC Dyno Shoot Out as a turbo. Some background - its a 1460cc bored and stroked 1100M, with low comp pistons, rods and a turbo grind cam, 9.5 : 1 compression, RS40's and Akkro 4-2-1 pipe and Dyna 2000 ignition. The carbs have been cleaned and got some guesstimated pilots and mains so expectations were - could do anything!
After strapping down and moderate warm up first few pulls so see how the carbs responded and Seans face told a tale - bit of a grin! He said we needed tea as that would be worth 5hp! Had tea / coffee and back to dyno cell and make some more noise!
So, what happened? If you take the smoothed graph it made 188bhp but the unsmoothed graph said 191bhp so we'll call it 190 hp in round numbers. There are some corrections to be made with the carbs but they aren't miles out - bit lean low down, richer in the mid-range and nearly spot on on the MJ, just a tad rich.
I was going to be happy at about 170 and more happy at 180hp so pretty ecstatic with near 190 from a turbo biased build. I've left the bike with Sean to play with as and when to do the adjustments - I could do the jet swaps but as I can't test under load, its pointless - so dyno it is. I'll see what it does with a little finese'ing in a couple of weeks!
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Alas, swapped doesn't always means 'shiney, gleaming, new' - as in its case . . . . . 'its working so good enough'
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16 hours ago, ColinH said:
While out I burnt my leg on exhaust so next job was heat shield
Nice - did something similar to mine - works ok for about 15 minutes then gets just as hot as main pipe - but looks cool even if it isn't!
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Try looking for -
37720 45100.
From Alpha sports in USA - still available $102.40 !
I believe the GSX1100 ET has a similar piece - may even be the same!
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Possible from a Big Zed - virtually a copy engine wise to the GS1000's - similar carburation and port spacings (not that that is an issue!) The 4 vac ports make guage carb balancing piss easy!
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Don't dispute what you are saying & if it does have removable H4 bulb, all good.
But the 'special features' in the ad you've just posted says 'sealed unit' ! I think it's the guts of a H4 bulb sealed into the lens bowl cos the rear in my link doesn't have removable bulb. Guess you'll find out if it blows
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12 hours ago, Suzukian said:
A bit of advice, put a car tire on the front rim of that rig. It's profile will give you much better braking, it will last much longer, as you are steering this as an automobile now. That's what most dedicated trike riders do. A very big positive difference in stopping, and tire life, and traction.
That advice is ONLY applicable if you change the whole front end to what is known in the UK as a 'Leading Link' set up! And even then it doesn't necessarily suit a car tyre! Car tyres are designed to operate and turn in a relatively 'flat' opientation keeping majority of tread pattern in contact with the road. A bike tyres contact patch wraps the profile and works over far wider operating angles. Whilst a trike doesn't lean anymore, the castor angle and trail of the wheel and forks still influence how the tyre works. This is an absolute minefield for Triker's and discussions over what is best are wide and many! If you've riden the trike. it handles ok and doesn't shake the bars at low speed - its a good one. The shake is the major thing that irritates people the most - the one I completed for SWMBO was a bastard and shook its head REAL bad, such that I got rid of it - it was dangerous! Leading links change the whole geometry but need to be designed / thought about and they generally aren't 'available off the shelf' such is their bespoke nature.
If you like what you've got and it works ok - just refurbish it, reinforce the bits that are rotted / broken and use it - no need to re-invent the wheel !
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Be wary of that light unit as its not fitted with a 'true' halogen bulb ie. H4! Its actually a sealed unit like very old incandescent types in the 50/60's - blow the dip or main and you have to replace the whole unit! - https://www.alchemyparts.co.uk/motorbike-headlight-insert-7-12v-55w-universal/ I think I would have just got a replacement, proper H4 type headlamp from someone like Wemoto but the Alchemy shell does seem quite slim which is a bonus I guess!
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Funny to see a bike plug that has the 'screw on, full size' plug wire nipple these days!
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That starter clutch assembly is MINT ! I've got a couple and seen far worst that are still working fine. They are bad when the plungers start getting punched out of the clutch casing. Unless the screws are loose - DON'T TOUCH THEM ! ! ! They will either loosen in use or snap - DON'T TOUCH THEM ! ! !
BTW, the starter motor gear teeth are cut / rolled into the starter motor shaft - they are not replaceable except with a new armature. Not being 'economical to make' is BS - they are made in their millions for many manufacturers - only the outer case & mount varies. So, it is possible you may be able to source a 'broken' starter motor with broken mount and use the armature in yours ?
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Don't trust a Colourtune for anything other than Idle set-up. You can't load the engine ie. on the road and read the colour tune! Get the wideband asap and the self-learning mapping can look after itself - unless it has a turbo and you restrict the 'auto adjustment' to +/-10% max whilst starting healthy rich. Honestly I wouldn't ever go closed loop control for anything over 75-80% - things happen too quickly whilst trying to concentrate riding & looking at guages . . . . best done on a dyno IMO!
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Surely a cracked airbox shouldn't need jet changes unless its bypassing the filter ( that is the restriction) ?
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Mine was done the '2nd option' route but with different ECU brand and yes it did take time but as it was a mates rates favour, I wasn't complaining (took about 3 weeks in all, including destroying a tyre . . . . twin roller car type dyno not good for bike tyres but beggers can't be choosy !) My ecu has what it calls compensation tables, for rpm vs MAP that gets applied to/over the base rpm vs TPS and it works well. There are a few other compensation tables - temps, voltages, other stuff . . . . then a load more for ignition tuning. I don't know what the Maxxecu tables are like, but mine have 20 x 20 tables so need a lot of button pressing!
Unfortunately my ecu was so 'old' it didn't have a wideband lambda capability / input (or any lambda actually), so this wasn't a tuning option other than watching the dyno's lambda machine and adjusting based on that, but as we were step tuning it wasn't so bad. This, IMO, is the best thing that ecu's ever got !
Good Luck
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Yeah the amp I used was 2 channel wasted spark driving two green 3.0 Dyna coils also ok with 2.2 greys. The 4 channel ones 'should' be ok with COP's run sequentially - but I've no definitive proof. They do need a decent heat sink though, I fixed mine to inside of GSXR frame!
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I have used Bosch ones. Which one depends on if running full sequential or wasted spark! Part #s 0 227 100 211 (4 outputs) or 0 227 100 210 (2 outputs) respectively - often used on VW, Audi, Porsche cars.
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15 hours ago, clivegto said:
I do have heated grips on the Turbo Scratcher (Slabby) and a spot light
With that admission you are so far down the cool wall - next you'll admit to having an AMI proficiency pass with honours
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What you describe is classic symptom when you remove airbox / filter and install pods. I thought BST36 carbs had an oval intake so had a look . . .
And they do, so should seal correctly on the box rubbers you have.
If they are not sealed, then air isn't being restricted by the filter and as far as the carbs are concerned - there is no filter / restriction and so they run like crap! Solution is either ensure seal is made and correct without leaks or live with the leaks and throw a Dynojet stage 1 kit in the carbs that will handle unrestricted air! Personally, I wouldn't want unfiltered air even if engine was running right so thats the priority IMO !
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If I read the matrix table on Page 65 of the manual correctly - you can't use a missing tooth crank wheel and a cam sync ! The crank wheel should be non-missing tooth so that the cam determines the engine phase. I guess that is logical but in a way it isn't if you want sequential ! Thats probably why you can't find a setting for a '2nd wheel' if you have a missing tooth crank wheel ?
Dyno Result ! ! !
in Oil Cooled
Posted
30 / 26mm - fairly std 'big' valves
Just saw your vid & post - FYI mine was making about 105 ftlbs torque. I should be picking it up this wednesday so will report back if any major changes and i'll try and get the dyno graphs for info!