Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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8 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Will a low battery some how spin the starter backwards ?
Can't spin backwards - the starter sprag is a one-way bearing. Can get low battery kick back - bounces off compression so seems backwards.
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Yes they are real bastard things - can't test them till installed and bled up then the faff to swap when they don't. Started with good ones - they could have been Goodrich, Anodised aluminium that matches fittings, well potted wires, worked years ago but now permanently 'On'. Swapped to new Eblag ones (in stock!) same result!
I may sit them in some solvent for a little bit as there must be a movable contact in them that has likely seized during their long sleep - thats the only thing I can thing of!
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4 hours ago, Graeme said:
Think it's solved. Like this?
If you wound the switch all the way into the plastic nut - would the spring reach the main spring pin on the lever?
I'm having to contemplate doing this as the hydraulic switches - both back and front are U/S! Means my lush AP Racing front master has to be replaced with something from the spares pile having a mechanical switch for the MOT man! And i've got Harris rearsets so nuffin' standard!
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How did you accomodate the extra stroke length without (obvious) riser plates? That combo comes out at somewhere near 1400cc yes?
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Ok - gotcha!
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It adds to the overall intake volume but the intakes are only affected by the immediately available plenum volume / space. Any intake pulses will only 'see' the intake lip / bellmouth & plenum back face opposite the inlet, will reflect off of that and either travel back down the inlet or get scattered around the plenum. IMO plenum volumes are more critical to carb equipped engines and unless you have bottomless bank accounts for development, worrying about huge / big / average or small plenums is a pointless task - build what fits and suits your aesthetic values / requirements . . . . . . there will be enough other problems to solve without worrying about the plenum volume!
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11 hours ago, spiderpig said:
Anyone done this to avoid seating issues with the orings.
Saw a american drag racer doing recently and wondered if it'd actually make much of a difference or be worth the effort
Please explain ? If you are planning what I think you are planning - I can't see how it works! Steel drain tubes on oil cooled engines? Expand / move slower / less than Aluminium block and head, so a degree of flexibility is required. Even when wrong o rings used this is defeated and leaks occur. For taper seats / joints to perform, the joint should be held firm / rigid so the seal isn't disturbed - this won't happen in this situation.
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I've had tanks welded in the past - not for repair but modification, but for preference, i'd say brazing would be a better solution, less heat & easier to 'pool' the filler metal - done right, last forever!
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That sounds a LOT of oil in the compressor! Pump looks ok - I thought it may have been one of the big one's. New turbo or used - could be duff seals?
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Picture of Facet pump would help? 12mm bore hose sounds huge - most use Facet cube or windscreen washer type pumps with 6-8mm bore hose.
How much crankcase ventilation is there?
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47 minutes ago, ColinH said:
It was a bit of an off the cuff comment without much thought behind it. Being draw through and assuming seals leak, then vacuum under throttle shut may bleed through to drain but think that's unlikely.
Yes, vacuum is a thing on draw-through's but usually symptomatic with oil sucked from seals leading to smoke. But that vacuum will also be applied to oil drain but its unlikely to draw from the drain sump. Its a case of follow the path of least resistance - oil pump is continually supplying oil to turbo bearings and as they are not a 'true' seal they will leak with either high pressure or low (vacuum) pressure - its just part of their charm!
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Just my 2 cents worth - my 1st draw through on a 1186 GSXR, started with cam cover vent & dumpy filter and a -8 hose off the oil filler to another dumpy filter. That arrangement worked for about a week before the gaskets all over the engine started leaking, and the cam cover dumpy filter fell off due to heat melting the rubber! After that I went OTT! Cam cover std vent - open, Additional -10 hose from weld on fitting to cam cover to new catch tank, Additional -10 hose from weld on fitting on centre of clutch cover to catch tank and retained the -8 from filler to a open catch bottle. The catch tank was filled with SS pan scourers to catch oil mist and drained back to sump with the tank being vented via internal baffles to two dumpy filters.
After that I never had noticable blow by or gasket leaks or smoke from crankcase - did 000's of road miles, got drag raced and was never a problem. So if anyone ever asks about crankcase vents, my answer is have lots and make them big!
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Whilst I'd say you'd probably be ok, the Suzuki bolts are 10.9 grade. I've used SS cap screws before without any issues but not saying its a good solution!
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I did it on to a EFE bottom end, Gorilla Big Block and purely for drag racing - all the oil cooling bits were stripped out of the head AND the block requires modification around the cam chain tunnel / head gasket area. Not at my storage PC presently so will post some pics later (if I remember).
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Blue to vacuum tap - if it hasn't got one, these pipes should be blocked or engine will run lean / air leak.
Green are float bowl overflows / vents.
Red is accellerator pump actuation lever - the screws set when it operated and when it stops so as to sychronise with engine demand on fast acceleration.
Yellow - can't really see what its pointing to?
They are very similar to Mikuni RS Flatslides - there is a Mikuni RS manual floating around on the web and also a Tuning Manual if you search.
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yeah - that simple!
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An EFI fuel pump should be controlled by the ECU - your key switch JUST turns everything electrical 'on' - the ECU decides whether prime required and when to run the pump.
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10 hours ago, Duckndive said:
just put some grease on the head
push plate onto grease fill from a syringe
Aye - bolting it down is a bit overkill - grease sticksion will be sufficient . . . . . . and easier!
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31 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Unnecessary "at this stage" stock vacuum connections blocked off
Good place for MAP sensor port connections though !
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As regards gasket or not - mine in a GSXR engine had the spacer coated with Gaskacinch, nothing else! Used that stuff on copper head gaskets used with boost - excellent in that application.
MTC pistons are generally more heavy duty than all of the others and crown thickness won't be an issue eg. their flat top 10:1 piston used to be carved out to make a bowl to produce their 8.5:1 Turbo pistons - same casting. I dropped a couple of valves over some 1327cc MTC pistons made a right fuckin mess but didn't damage the pistons other than some severe gouges & dents - can't say the same about the cylinder head!
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Maybe change your search parameters to 'Cylinder spacer', I found this - https://suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/products/cylinder-base-spacer-gsx1100-2mm-sps-base-spacer-2-0-mm-thick Others of 1mm which could be adjusted with paper or copper placed one side or both sides. I used a 2mm aluminium spacer when I turbo'd my GSXR 1186cc using 12.5:1 pistons - that worked fine. I don't think you have a massive problem! You could always 'flat top' the pistons as an option?
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4 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Thanks.
I was thinking of making something on the side of the valve cover, so the round lobe won't be a problem..
Hmmm! Not the easiest placement I guess . . . . . what about side of cam chain gears / tunnel and sensor over a bolt?
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
The hall effect sensor for the camshaft, does that need to be triggered by a specific lobe, or will any lobe do?
As its only one pin / lobe per cycle triggering, any will do although you need to know which cylinder it is applicable to and (sometimes depending on ECU software) the angle related to trigger points ! I added a separate pin to my GSXR to avoid lobes due to possible inaccurate measurement point with a rounded lobe - just how I preferred it - not saying its right or wrong!
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13 hours ago, GSX1100dreamn said:
Later GSX1100 24 bolt, extra 4 in the cam chain tunnel.
See ! I knew there was a difference just got the + / - wrong LOL's
Slabby clutch
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Aftermarket fibres can be hit & miss - slip, judder, fall to pieces or work fine - no guarantee what you'll get so most will go OEM as they are know quantity and can withstand huge abuse - turbo / nitrous upto racing / funnybike levels. I've used EBC which lasted less than a meeting and Barnett Kevlar which worked ok but juddered like a bitch on the road - very irritating in traffic.