Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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34 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Mount below the sump at the back right I have the none return value inline before the pump like most people have.
Why before pump? Most check valves have a crack pressure which holds oil back before pump but if placed after the pump will easily overcome the resistance & stop any backflow!
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Why use a 'higher' pressure pump? It doesn't need to build pressure - just flow a volume of 'waste' oil discharge. Although the pump may draw oil vertically, every time it empties the sump can it has to start again and the can vent won't help in that respect. Personally, I'd mount the pump down low / equal height to sump can so oil flow by gravity is constant and if you have a check valve, fit it AFTER the pump so pumped oil won't flow backwards after pump shut off. Sorry if reply seems naive - I have a crank driven mechanical pump so these electrical ones are alien to me LOL!
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If I may ask . . . . why? for what reason? This was an often discussed topic on the old 200mph.org forum.
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You're not the 1st or will be the last, to get caught out by the good / duff battery situation!
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@Suzukian - you are posting solutions to problems that don't exist here - its an oilcooled engine with a unit alternator / regulator / rectifier.
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1 hour ago, Traz1132 said:
The rubber T price is very stubby either end so would struggle to get a clamp on
Its between the carb bodies which are secured to the rack - the tee can't go anywhere!
And a zip tie on the hose barb will clamp enough on the inlet hose.
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An oval is just a squashed circle - a correctly sized circularly holed filter will fit an oval correctly and won't obscure the cresent shaped vent.
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Technically yes but as those ports used to balance the carbs everything would require disconnection during that work!
Don't take my words as gospel as I use FI so don't worry about pitots and such like! A knowledgeable adult will either confirm or blow me outta the pond!
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Try this - I do drawings for a living, but words better in this instance!
Fuel tank - fuel pump - Fuel reg - Carbs = correct although i'd put some filters in to protect pump and carbs.
FPR signal line = goes to pitot tube.
Carb float bowl vents = Pitot tube as they provide dynamic (quick response) pressure changes.
Turbo Wastegate signal = Plenum or Inlet runner as it needs boost to open.
Boost Guage = Plenum or inlet runner (obvs to see boost).
BOV = Plenum or inlet runner as it needs vacuum to open.
Some people use the pitot for everything but I would prefer that just to be used for control of fuel delivery / carb operation which really is critical!
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Ah! I did a search for AEM MAP sensors - quite a range! I honestly didn't know they existed - skool day! I have to admit they are bloody expensive though when compared to GM stuff, AEM stuff is good (so i've heard) but damn! From past experience, I tend to have 4 bungs welded in to any plenum as its far easier to plug disused ones than drilling , bunging and welding an additional one (for me atleast as my ali welding is sketchy at best!) Onwards and upwards!
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MAP sensor 'bung' ? Most MAP sensors don't mount on the plenum - admittedly i've only used GM types but they seem to be universally used unless the ECU has an integrated onboard sensor. The bung would be useful for the IAT sensor (inlet air temp) You'll also need a bung for wastegate operation line. Its coming along though!
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Maybe the earth / ground from battery to chassis / engine was poor in 1st instance, and moving it to 2nd bike improved the situation. An alternator will output more if the ground is poor as it can't regulate properly - well thats my theory and explains the symptoms!
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
The 600 teapot is likely to have a completely different advance/retard setup to a Blandit 1200. The data for this are in the genuine Suzuki workshop manuals, available online FOC. If so, this would be a contributory factor as to why your bike won't start because the advance retard curve is set in the CDI unit. I'd fit an ignition system from a bike with an 1100 or 1200 engine. Use the rotor, pick-up and CDI from the same model. A B12 CDI has different connectors than the others and are not so freely available, and as stated above, needs a (I think 100ohm) resistor in the ignition switch circuit to run.
Who said anything about a 1200 Bandit? I read it as using a 600 Blandit - could be entirely wrong but never took 'later' to mean 1200 ! Happy to be corrected though!
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41 minutes ago, andyRN said:
I'm using the gsx600f CDI. An aftermarket switch. Do I need a resistor? I thought the GSXF didn't have one??
GSXF - No, GSF - Yes . . . . . afaik !
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Another thought after your comment above - if using a Bindit CDI box you need to use corresponding ignition switch due to a resistor being fitted that allows the ign. to work.
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Rush
in Air Cooled
2 hours ago, BigT said:The vacuum line runs from the fuel tap to a carb, not the intake manifold.
What's the difference providing the carb port is capped / blocked?
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Best to use the matching components but sometimes they are interchangable - if the pins and sockets match they might swap. The rotor's are the important bit as they can affect actual trigger points.
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If you can't spot an AI image - there's no hope! Look closer - the inlets are out of line, a starter motor attached to the front of the crankcases with cylinders on backwards . . . . . . !
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2 hours ago, Suzukian said:
You can take a Dremel tool and oblong the mounting screw holes, which will allow the cap to sit on the cam as good as it's going too.
You seem to have forgotten the caps are 2x dowelled to head precisely to stop this 'movement' !
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Oil cooled top end, cam cover gaskets are re-usable so unless they are leaking don't need replacement! Buying a complete gasket set 'just in case' seems a bit OTT! Unless you are planning a total strip down, a complete kit is money wasted IMO. OEM gaskets are gold standard obviously but Velpro or Cometic make good sets although some miss some required bits so end up ordering OEM anyway and kit valve seals can be suspect although they look & feel good!
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Interesting arsetickle that seems to gloss over the fact that a) crankshafts have bearing surfaces ground to size and these by their very nature must vary in size hence why a range of replaceable bearings are available for mains and big ends and b) tolerances on crank and rod caps are line 'aligned' and no one considers mixing those up! Cam bearings are non replaceable (except in Zed engines I believe) and so any misalignment could cause issues. The factory also marked all the caps so they sat at designated positions - why if they were so 'interchangeable' ?
Some caps will swap, some will be tight and what about those that aren't tight - they maybe too loose and bleed oil pressure without you knowing! But without trying - you won't know!
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Ooooh - That's skinney !
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1 hour ago, Zac said:
are there any issues with having the oil cooler fittings at the bottom ? Like a lot of oil draining down into the sump when off, I’ve seen some people have them at the top thats all.
My pet 'daft' question ! The oil, once the cooler is full and contains no air - only oil, CANNOT empty whilst the engine ends of the oil hoses are below oil level ! To do so would require air to get into the system which it can't as its a 'sealed' loop. Only when you drop the oil during a change will the loop be broken, air can enter to replace the draining oil.
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Don't look too bad ! If I could suggest anything, i'd pull back the timing at top rpm's and particularly in the higher boost range, and increase it in the lower/mid rpm / off & low boost range. As regards AFR, I can't relate to lambda numbers - my brain works in 11:1, 12:1, 13:1 type ratio numbers but mostly the map looks rich even low end & off boost. A turbo engine will give optimal power at same numbers as NA but people / tuners seem to throw large gobs of fuel in . . . . . because its 'safer', which can be proven is incorrect! A too rich mixture can just as easily detonate! Personally I like to keep around the 12:1 ratio as max rich on boost with high 12's / low 13's for most areas except cruise where leaner is possible.
Note : these are applicable to my engine / turbo install and were worked out with extensive step loaded dyno work - more than several days. From what i've seen, if the fueling is 'right' with reduced timing, it doesn't change much with increased timing until its TOO much. So, add/subtract fuel first to get best power then add timing to improve the overall output.
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Cams for bigbore? Road spec
in Oil Cooled
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Whilst fitting bigger cams to a std size engine can be a + / - thing, the proposed engine is 20% larger with bigger valves for increased breathing. Giving it a std cam would be like fitting it with 30mm choke carbs - it'll be REALLY torquey but a bit flat at the top when compared to its smaller bore brothers imo. A small hop up in cam spec would be no bad thing - better torque, 160+ hp and completely streetable (with other suitable components obviously)