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Gixer1460

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Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. Never done it but it shouldn't be a load of work and provided you are careful, should be pain free - 4 screws to hold body onto top / bottom rack bars and a fuel connection which should have a o ring in it to seal. How the spring is retained to be investigated prior I think! + undo slide lifting mechanism under top cover :tu

  2. On 6/1/2024 at 5:44 PM, symona1 said:

     I know there's a 3 pin diode up by the battery on the left as you're sitting on the bike.

    That thing is a PITA and really only there as interlock safety feature for side stand / clutch / in gear / starting. It got binned from mine!

    On 6/2/2024 at 1:24 PM, symona1 said:

    Okay, went out this morning and disconnected the ignition switch at the green block. Set my meter to 200 ohms and probed the red ingnition wire with my positive and negative to the orange wire. Turned on the key and I get a fluctuating reading that can go anywhere from 2.8 ohms up to over 50 ohms as i move the wires beneath the ignition barrel.

    That sound more like a dodgy / broken wire in the loom making intermittent / high resistance connection! Not unheard of due to all the twisting it does!

    3 hours ago, symona1 said:

    Just for anyone who may be following this, no diode in the ignition as I took it into work to strip out the security bolts and strip it down.

    Changed the coils for good known working second hand originals and still no spark.

    Surely it now has to be the ignitor/CDI.

    I thought it was only the Blandits that had a 100ohm RESISTOR in the Ign. Switch - I could be wrong though!

  3. As I assume the 1100 was a 'bigger bored' 1000 to gain its capacity and not stroked, then again I assume that the cylinder height will be the same, therefore no reason that the exhaust won't fit either engine equally well. Given the 1000's relative rarity, the ex. manufacturer may not have had an example to test fit so their reply may be guarded or with reservations?

    • Like 1
  4. 3 points - quite big injectors for engine size & state of tune - my 1460 used 8x205cc for 370hp. 2nd if the fuel filter is capable of disassembly I'd say it's not suited for efi as they should filter in 5-10 micron range and normally not serviceable. 3rd - I use std JR9B's in above bike but have used JR10C's with nitrous.

    • Like 2
  5. I keep forgetting this is a damn 4 wheeler! From pics I guess some space could be generated for better manifold AND turbo placement if the engine was rotated backwards towards the intake (which would rotate down). Ltwt. weight is good but not at the expense of a rigid chassis - i'm not seeing much triangulation going on and the chassis rails look 'skinny' ie. not much depth to them? When you look at bike installs, they are, and have to be compact, to avoid frame down tubes and a moving front wheel and i'd say most would fit in a slightly enlarged space happily. You probably have more space than you realise with a bit of re-jigging!

    If you are aiming for 500hp/tonne/1000kg that translates to about 500kg @ 250hp, all up weight which is bloody light for anything with 4 wheels, suspension, seats & bodywork!

    Some examples of compact pipework - you don't have to follow them but good inspiration - the NLR example is a very good, free flowing manifold that helps a Busa engine to over 500hp from 1300cc! The vee band flange is for wastegate and best placed for control.

    IMG_3445Medium.jpg

    Motor1.jpg

    NLR pipe1.jpg

    NLR pipe3.jpg

    web6.jpg

    • Like 2
  6. Why tack the spigots - they aren't going to ever be anywhere other than the end of the pipe so fully weld them, then tackle welding pipes to collector - at least the spigots & runners can be bolted in to head, tight, to prevent excessive movement. Yes, pipe can move when finish welding but tacks are unlikely to kink out of place. Once all tacked up and held into head and into turbo (which should be well constrained) the easily accessible joints can be finished TIG'd to make rigid manifold, then removed from fixture to finish welding the remainder not welded first time!

    You are aware the pipework plan chosen isn't going to perform the best?  Flows are conflicted and the 90 deg turn into the Vee band clamp section isn't good. I'm all for DIY turbo builds but bad design leads to poor performance and disappointment ! Just saying!

    • Like 2
  7. 10 hours ago, Isleoman said:

    Not just the US! Although there might be a Keihin part supplier in Europe / UK, i'm not aware of them so I always refer back to Sudco for these parts, mostly with good results! I guess being in Cali doesn't help with that state's hatred of anything with an IC engine - lets hope someone else wants to buy the business!

  8. Its not too small, its just that your aging body isn't as flexible and adaptable as 20yr old you!

    As a 20yr old, you would have put up with ridiculous riding styles and folded your body into unimaginable positions to ride a 'Frame Kitted' bike!

    Getting old sucks! :(

    • Like 1
  9. 43 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

    InjectorHolder1.thumb.jpg.3d850a033c85ed49b65c732e9f01fca8.jpg

    That's Nice, very nice! Must be easy having zillions of Lectron carbs cluttering up the workshop ready for cannibalization :pimp:

    33 minutes ago, imago said:

    Many ways of doing it, I'm aiming for it not being noticeable. 

    I've set the plug lower in the slide bore and centralised. So the cap will sit on and I can route the wires and pipe through the inboard side of the carb body out of sight.

     20240529_102656.thumb.jpg.fb1b856bbf65dc77c05505660263c5db.jpg20240529_102649.thumb.jpg.bc4644d4aa944c12be3b10163d57c775.jpg

    Interesting, but seems a lot of aggro for not much benefit? Surprised if you can get a rail and injector fuel connection inside cap! The spray pattern is going to suffer I think? But I'll keep watching :tu

  10. Of the 'normal' OC engines - GSXR, GSF etc. they have a two part pump, one does the pressurised lubrication system, the other does the cooling circuit. I think the broad range quoted covers both sides as generally they pump multiple gallons of oil per minute such that probably 50% is bled off straight back to the sump via relief valves - the HP side will hit 100psi when cold whilst the cooling side doesn't have much pressure but relies on flow and contact time to carry heat away. Hence my thinking that multiple rads adds resistance to flow which could result in worst cooling but increased capacity.

    The OC's have fixed gearing unlike the AC bikes - non adjustable - AC variants done mainly for a boost in pressure - 10-12psi std, upto 20-30psi when re-geared.

    A dry sump system has lots of advantages - massive (comparitively speaking) oil capacity, no oil surge / sloshing in a 4 wheel application, simple pump re-gearing to slow or speed up delivery / pressure, cooling circuit for oil tank can be independent of engine and taken to extremes, the engine can be mounted lower in chassis to improve CoG and handling due to shallow sump!

    Its always an unknown with engine modification - will it hurt the engine, will it reduce reliability? Sometimes 'over kill' can work against the common good!

    • Like 2
  11. I'd be cautious about adding lots of smaller coolers against one larger one due to possible limitations of oil pump to have pressure capacity to push through multiple restrictive coolers and oil lines connecting them all up? As this is a car application, a 3 port scavenge / pressure pump, dry sump and remote tank would certainly be the best solution - plenty of Hayabusa's using dry sumps!

    • Like 1
  12. 27 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

    You still have the stamped VIN number what needs to be taken care of. And that's something they're really strict on in The Netherlands and here in Tasmania, if that looks dodgy the strip the paint till where ever they see fit.

    In The Netherlands that's checked every time the vehicle is in for the annual roadworthy test, in Tasmania when the vehicle is also up for a roadworthy test, or a random check from Transport.

    You think the 'crims' haven't got that covered? Cutting out and re-welding panel stamped numbers, welding up and re-stamping VIN numbers - there is VERY little that has been tried and defeated by a crafty crook! Its great that the cloggies check every year but would an average mechanic / MOT tester be able to tell if the numbers / plates / VIN's had been tampered with? Probably not with a time crunched, non detailed look!

  13. 7 hours ago, lowriderade said:

     Is it based on resistance or something. Or  is there a part that turns 

    Its both LOL! The body face has brass pads that a pin in the shift drum rotates over - usually 5 or 6 big pads + 1 small one for neutral. Depending on the sophistication and signal output to the CDI/ECU there will be different resistance values on the output wire dependant on what gear the shift drum pin is touching. Obviously the switch has to have the correct pattern to match the rotation of the shift drum - I wasn't aware of any difference until recently (if a difference actually exists?) and of course the resistance values have to match what the ignition is looking for or not, if you are trying to defeat it!

    If a bump changed the behaviour of the ignition I'd guess the sh. drum pin was barely making contact on an un-restricted portion and the bump moved it into 'restricted mode' position ? ? ?

  14. Depends if you want it permanently mounted or not, with or without a gauge? NEVER before the turbo - back pressure and heat will kill it in short order! As close to the turbo outlet is ideal ie. try to get at least 12" / 300mm upstream of the exhaust end outlet. If not a permanent fixture, the sensor can be shoved up the pipe, wrapped in foil just for tuning sessions then removed for use - not ideal but it works ok!

  15. 6 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

    And how do you get a matching license plate? And the right paperwork?

    Unlike a lot of the world, UK registrations are linked to the Chassis Plate # when 1st registration made and stay with the vehicle for life until scrapped, exported or owner wants a 'personalised' registration like, say RR 1 on a Rolls Royce - that reg # would cost an absolute fortune if it was to come up for sale!

    So, the tea leafs nick a car but obviously can't sell it with no paperwork so they obtain a V5 rego document for something similar or something that is beyond reasonable repair and transfer its 'identity / chassis # / reg plate' onto the nicked car. Now you have a 'clean / legit' car that can be sold although it isn't what it started life as!

    V5 sales were rife 5-10 years ago - actually illegal in itself - but included a bit of the original vehicle or a pile of rust . . . . . for restoration or usually making stolen cars, seemingly legit! harder these days as DVLA have eventually got wise and ask for a lot of documentary evidence to re-issue 'dormant' V5's to new owners!

  16. 9 hours ago, Dezza said:

    How do you see the colour if the device is stuck down the spark plug well of an oil cooled engine? The colourtunes I have seen have all been aimed at the car market. Easy to see when used on a 1979 1600 Cortina.

    If playing with carbs its likely the tank is off so looking down the wells should be easy enough + dark enough to see flame colour better? IMO the only engine they made sense with, was the original Mini's - plugs at front, directly behind the bonnet!

    • Like 1
  17. 9 hours ago, peter1127 said:

    Just take the pressure to the fpu from the plenum. Doesn’t need dynamic boost. 

    Wouldn't that give a lean miss? The pitot should always be a better choice as it acts faster to pressure change - that's its whole reason! I've no axe to grind here - carbs are hard enough without having to contend with pressurised air AND fuel . . . . . . . I prefer EFI!

  18. 2 hours ago, clivegto said:

    Yea what's a colortune ? 

    You've been around for a few months / years / decades, so I can't believe you've never heard of or about the Colourtune device! Its from the era before EFI when carbs were fitted to everything - only good for idle tuning but perfect visual feedback immediately on adjustment.

  19. I always though of 'power jets' being a main jet supplement ie. extra to & independent of, the MJ and non-metered at WOT use! The needle and emulsion tube are usually the only thing that regulates 'mid range' running with actual fuel flow through regulated by the MJ

    • Like 1
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