Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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10 hours ago, 94RF1146 said:
We wanted a full pass in 4th gear then make adjustments.
Sorry, not really a good plan! Just because you build a potential 500hp engine you don't hit it with 500hp for a baseline . . . . at those sort of power levels a little lean or fuel pump hiccup and you'll be sifting through debris! Lower boost baselines & tuning lets you see how the engine responds - takes more time but is waaaay safer!
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I can't see any markings that would suggest anything other than 'std' cams - aftermarket supplied, are usually stamped / engraved on the ends!
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As Arttu says, you can't measure 'loose' bearings - they have to be mounted to the crank (or in the cases for mains) and fully torqued up. Use of plastiguage is ideal and can be trusted. Whilst these engines are good they aren't and never were 'Swiss Watches' - assembly was done by Letter stamps and never queried by the line fitter, so if a bearing was a bit looser, that engine would break-in faster, it wouldn't be noticable. Many engines have been built in sheds / garages / shops without metrology that measures down to 0.001mm and they work fine - stop stressing about building a swiss watch!
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There seems to be a massive amount of disparities in readings! First that jumps out is that high MPH figure when the dyno is reading KPH (which i'd trust as most dyno's totally max out @200mph! MAP figure of 44.6 psi when logger says 'engine max MAP' of 395.5 kPA (which is about 30psi boost) ? There doesn't appear to be any boost control and power is still climbing at 12,000+ rpm ! The real weird one is injector duty cycle at 125.2% - how can an injector open more than 100% ? And those lambda's are so rich (if you are using petrol / gasoline) to be almost pouring neat fuel into the cylinders - slight exageration maybe LOL!
Sorry if comments are 'sounding smart' but if the data is wrong then it can't be relied on, so is useless. As you say, it does need a 'coat of looking at'.
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If someone has a standard head in the shed, they could (if they were nice!) and they had a set of digital calipers, measure the depth of the whole head from cylinder face to rocker cover gasket face. Do the same on the 'suspect' head and you've got the amount skimmed off so far! Simples!
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6 hours ago, Arttu said:
Are you sure about "normal" vacuum? I have seen some draw through try-outs without carbon sealed turbo and they smoked badly already at idle. I guess you were using a carbon sealed turbo?
The point about 'normal' vacuum was mainly in reply to carb function. My T2 was carbon sealed to reduce the oil issues.
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@Arttu- the spring in a priority valve only needs to prevent the spike in vacuum when slamming the throttle shut at high rpm - 'normal' running vacuum isn't an issue. My draw though used an S&S with previously mentioned T2 and I didn't use a valve & worked fine - not sure a CV type carb would work as well!
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The Priority Valve is / was effectively a 'BOV' (blow off valve) for Draw thro set-ups - they both open with vacuum / closed throttle although each has a different affect - PV intended to stop oil being sucked from bearings and BOV intended to improve turbo spooling by avoiding back feeding pressure spike into turbo. As I said, looking at parts lists only tells you what comes 'as std' - a rebuilder can assess whether a 'custom' fitment is possible! I've always received great advice & service from Turbo Dynamics, Christchurch UK - they built me a little Garrett T2 that flowed as much as a T3, carbon sealed and 360 deg bearing in a small package.
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Research 'Priority Valve' - been done before, but most couldn't be bothered. Intake valve and fitting on manifold, held closed with weak spring that opens with vacuum! Ask turbo rebuild shops, just because a unit is listed without a carbon seal, doesn't mean one can't be fitted - and the lag is part of the fun!
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Whilst maybe not as critical as when using a shell bearing crank, roller bearing crank and gearboxes are also line bored as matching pairs so potential for misalignment is a possibility !
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^^^ wot he said!
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Jeez, it's not even broken! Find a decent polisher and they'd polish out all the damage. The case emblem will be a slight problem but aftermarket stuff is available or vinyl printing is an option.
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Maybe i'm a pessimist but i've always worked on 10% variance across cylinders high to low (maybe due to racing / turbo use?). I'm quite surprised at the factory allowing near 30% variance!
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Reading this again and from the OP post - a CDI / TCI / ECU for a 4 cylinder engine won't work - properly - with a 2 cylinder engine. Well not without some clever / dodgy rewiring. So buying a 550 or 750 unit would be pointless!
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Why not do the easy way and use thicker or multiple base gaskets?
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Basics . . . . . Fuel, Air and sparks!
#1 Does it have fuel in tank? Is that fuel getting to ALL carbs, Are float valves working as required, What do plugs look like?
#2 Filter fitted or no - what state is it in if fitted? Is throttle moving slides or butterflies in carbs?
#3 Do you have a spark at the plugs - good or weak?
Answers help with diagnosis! We may be mechanical wizards but ' my bike doesn't work' doesn't help identify problems!
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Bottom breathers are usually fluid drains ie. condensed oil or water, so blocking that is not good long term due to potential build up. As stock a hose will extend down to back of engine / swingarm pivot area that may be open or plugged (that should be opened during a service to drain any accumulations) Generally breathers from engine to airbox shouldn't be blocked as build-up of crankcase pressure will result in weeping gaskets or case joints.
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Yes they are EGT ports - Sean does do some serious stuff when he puts his mind to it!
Now just gotta spend another 10k to make it work right LOL!
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Update : I tried a couple of 'Key from Code' places - even sent photo of the code on the ign. lock and all came back with " not a recognised code! " Bugger! So got the switch and lock off and went round to local locksmith who 'might' be able to cut one from the lock . . . . . but he only works Tuesday's so left it there. Came home to do other stuff and whilst rumaging through odd boxes in the shed, came across a ring with 3 suzuki keys and one 'onda - You couldn't make this up!
One odd Suzuki key sort of fitted the fuel cap lock but it barely turned! So out with the WD40 and oil and after about 20 minutes of gradually turning back & forth - it opened. Tank had been drained when last used but the fumes / oils / moisture had made the locking bar all furry & sticky - Anyway result one Tried that key in the seat lock - no problem, plenty loose so seat off and lube lock - just in case - result two . Went back to locksmiths with the two odd keys which I was sure were the Ign. Sw keys but no. So took the lock assy. back and tried the single key - worked perfectly - result three! All's well that end well !
Now can start the recommissioning - Flatslides are locked solid . . . . . . . Ho Hum ! ! !
So I found an odd ign sw. in my 'spares' that I thought was Suzuki but wasn't - it was 'onda and I remembered when I rewired the Purple BigCC Kat, I used that as it was simple. Now i'm guessing i've got another 'spare' Suzuki lock that fits those two odd keys!
Anyway, going to get a spare or two keys cut for the GSXR - can't be doing with just a single key! But annoyingly without further disassembly of the lock barrel / security rivets etc., there are NO key codes on the lock or the key! So lesson for everyone, 91 GSXR's are a pain to get keys for!
And buying another s/hand lock set is great but you have to / usually have to unlock the original barrels to get them out of fuel cap and seat lock to change them - I'm not taking a Black & Decker to a sub 4000 mile old bikes fuel cap!
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Never really looked at the original before (roundy roundy racing isn't my thing) but I guess as a dedicated race bike the packaging has to be tight enough to not affect chassis geometry whilst allowing potential 'quick swap' of engine complete with carbs if necessary? With all mount plates removed, that engine looks to slide out, easy as - very neat! Also I wonder why LHS rear brake . . . . . maybe old Brit Bike rider LOL!
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Bike has been stored so long that i've managed to loose the keys DOH! I've tried a search on the site for advice threads but it only comes up with associated words! So anyone know exactly where the key codes are that can be used to order keys from a vendor? I assume in the ignition lock but as that is serious disassembly (security bolts etc) I'd like an idea before going 'gung ho' ! BTW its a GSXR 1100 M.
What's the betting the original keys show up right after I get some new ones ! ! !
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Ha Ha Ha! Not surprised it was overheating - it is from 125 / 250 sized 'onda bikes!
So where is this pic from as it looks like an odd collection of Suzuki loom colours for a charging system on a GS1000 ?
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Anything mechanical will wear in use and polishing WILL remove metal otherwise the finish wouldn't change! You have comparible numbers from two different micrometers - and in the 1/10th's of a thou range - that would lead me to trust them and order bearings to suit. The number stamps are really only for factory use as the guy doing the measurement isn't the one selecting the bearings down the line!
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19 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Actually I'll correct myself. Apparently there are some 5 wire GS stators. I've never seen one!
This page gives details of what to do with the spare wires....basically just leave them disconnected.
Which would seem to indicate (in the OP's picture) that it wasn't wired correctly! Use one yellow, one white/blue and the yellow/green and connect those to the Electrex R/R Yellows. The remaining spare yellow and white/blue should be isolated and connected to nothing. What a palava !
Revs reading about 3 times higher on clock
in Oil Cooled
Posted
They can't as they are 'dumb' and only work with what they get sent from the ecu / cdi / ignition module. More worrying if the tacho is being fed shite - what are the coils getting?