Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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If you can't spot an AI image - there's no hope! Look closer - the inlets are out of line, a starter motor attached to the front of the crankcases with cylinders on backwards . . . . . . !
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2 hours ago, Suzukian said:
You can take a Dremel tool and oblong the mounting screw holes, which will allow the cap to sit on the cam as good as it's going too.
You seem to have forgotten the caps are 2x dowelled to head precisely to stop this 'movement' !
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Oil cooled top end, cam cover gaskets are re-usable so unless they are leaking don't need replacement! Buying a complete gasket set 'just in case' seems a bit OTT! Unless you are planning a total strip down, a complete kit is money wasted IMO. OEM gaskets are gold standard obviously but Velpro or Cometic make good sets although some miss some required bits so end up ordering OEM anyway and kit valve seals can be suspect although they look & feel good!
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Interesting arsetickle that seems to gloss over the fact that a) crankshafts have bearing surfaces ground to size and these by their very nature must vary in size hence why a range of replaceable bearings are available for mains and big ends and b) tolerances on crank and rod caps are line 'aligned' and no one considers mixing those up! Cam bearings are non replaceable (except in Zed engines I believe) and so any misalignment could cause issues. The factory also marked all the caps so they sat at designated positions - why if they were so 'interchangeable' ?
Some caps will swap, some will be tight and what about those that aren't tight - they maybe too loose and bleed oil pressure without you knowing! But without trying - you won't know!
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Ooooh - That's skinney !
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1 hour ago, Zac said:
are there any issues with having the oil cooler fittings at the bottom ? Like a lot of oil draining down into the sump when off, I’ve seen some people have them at the top thats all.
My pet 'daft' question ! The oil, once the cooler is full and contains no air - only oil, CANNOT empty whilst the engine ends of the oil hoses are below oil level ! To do so would require air to get into the system which it can't as its a 'sealed' loop. Only when you drop the oil during a change will the loop be broken, air can enter to replace the draining oil.
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Don't look too bad ! If I could suggest anything, i'd pull back the timing at top rpm's and particularly in the higher boost range, and increase it in the lower/mid rpm / off & low boost range. As regards AFR, I can't relate to lambda numbers - my brain works in 11:1, 12:1, 13:1 type ratio numbers but mostly the map looks rich even low end & off boost. A turbo engine will give optimal power at same numbers as NA but people / tuners seem to throw large gobs of fuel in . . . . . because its 'safer', which can be proven is incorrect! A too rich mixture can just as easily detonate! Personally I like to keep around the 12:1 ratio as max rich on boost with high 12's / low 13's for most areas except cruise where leaner is possible.
Note : these are applicable to my engine / turbo install and were worked out with extensive step loaded dyno work - more than several days. From what i've seen, if the fueling is 'right' with reduced timing, it doesn't change much with increased timing until its TOO much. So, add/subtract fuel first to get best power then add timing to improve the overall output.
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With these installs, a little airflow disruption is the least of your worries - you're making the air make several (4 at least) 90 degree direction changes so a little turbulance ain't gonna matter much! AND they'll assist in holding plenum to head for really high boost / gear change backfires / nitrous use !
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In answer to OP question - No, there are no available options for using original hoses with after market coolers. Not to say its not possible, just just that bespoke adapter/s would / may be required which could total up the same as DIY hoses! I don't think I've ever spent more than £250 for cooler, hose, fittings and mounts - all -10 size and NOT using Torques products (not because I don't like them, just that Mocal supplier is local & I can walk in and match odd threads/fittings without back & forth aggro)
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9 hours ago, Suzukisam77 said:
It’s a real shame because that is one of the only cylinders I could find with no broken fins. Does anyone know if 1127 barrels from gsxr or katana will fit in the 1157 bandit cases?
Yeah 1127 barrels will fit Blandit cases as the liners are slightly smaller in dia. But if you bore them to 81mm they will be thinner than the 1157 ones! But many have been done successfully. Surprised the boring co. hasn't suggested dropping defective liners out and replacing ie. use busted fin block liners into your good one?
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Wouldn't use a check valve on the turbo drain - spring pressure to close it fights against the scavenge pump. Once its all installed and engine filled with oil, the scavenge pump stays fairly well primed - didn't have issues with mine at least! I do have a check on the feed to turbo though to stop oil in feed line 'flooding' the turbo after shutdown - maybe not needed but its there!
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Whilst it may seem like an obvious fix but getting a spanner - ring or open end - in there is equally problematic, the lower one's moreso! I see you've used button heads, I'd suggest 'normal' cap head screws and use ball end Allen keys OR put some tubes through the plenum to give direct access to screw heads!
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The copper ones just flatten & are worst than useless. Often peeps forget to dig out old seals & hence you get doubles! The metal sided fibre are resilient and are the ones to use!
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Generally with most ECU's, the more money, the more features! Megasquirt basic starts with 2 injector and 2 ignition outputs - enough to run a 4 cylinder using batch fire fueling and wasted spark ign. 4 injector outputs broadens the applications out to 8 cylinders with batch down to 4 cyl. sequential (if cam sensor included) Although I believe if running NA only, a MAP sensor can be used to establish an inlet sync pulse on #1 cylinder thus allowing sequential operation - I personally prefer a toothed cam & sensor (single pin in camshaft and Hall sensor in cover over is as simple as it gets).
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On 12/27/2025 at 12:35 PM, Gixer1460 said:
The TB was the easy bit off Eblag & cheap £60!
Received this today & it's better than I was expecting! It's machined well, from decent alloy with good anodising! The TPS ring looks to accept most common sensors having a D drive. Into the parts store for later incorporation.
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So, are you saying that Suzuki used the wrong screw solution, over multiple engine designs and model evolutions and never considered changing it or found it to be a problem?
Throwing some rough numbers at this - 70mm say length plate from 20C to 200C expands about 0.15mm, steel screws would have similar but proportionaly less expansion, Alloy casting over same distance and at same temp rise would move twice as much ie about 0.30mm. As the alloy has greater expansion the screws are put in increased tension and with a countersunk interface, the clamping force would minutely increase, would it not?
So, whether the oil port or the gearbox plate had or had no gaskets, its clamping, thus sealing, would be adequate regardless! All fairly immaterial as there are far more 'leaky' joints that could loose oil flow or pressure that often get overlooked.
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18 hours ago, imago said:
I've always presumed it was to allow for heat expansion.
The plate is held with countersunk screws which will loosen when the plate expands and contracts due to the taper. There isn't room to use cap or hex head bolts which stretch and contract rather than loosening, so the gasket takes up expansion & contraction pressures without affecting the torque applied to the screws.
I can't see expansion / contraction of plate being an issue and 'if' screw loosening is an issue, then Hi Temp Loctite is the answer!
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Was going to suggest - https://www.kitsetperformance.com.au/product-page/ms3pro-mini-standalone-ecu-system-w-harness-megasquirt but Peter got there before me! Seems a more complete package - ECU, harness, Tuning s/ware, Licence and tuning cable . . . . and its smaller. I particularly like the datalogging function that writes to a flash memory card - neat! I may go this route with mine as a replacement MoTec is difficult to justify for a hobby / non racebike!
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1 hour ago, Wee Man said:
Unfortunately the 'stealers' are the most expensive source , even Robinson's with OSS discount are waaaay too expensive for what could be classed as a service item! I'd try Eblag cheap ones, buy two sets at a cost of probably half or less, what the 'official sources will charge!
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Situation normal! Don't oval the bolt holes or the carbs will be a bitch to get on! Correct way is port the alloy to match the rubber or rubber to match the hole! But in reality for a road bike it makes 2/10ths of FA difference!
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Don't you use Google? Not short of choice there! I know people hate Google but it is a global information resource and i'd certainly trust it more than asking anything on, for example, any of the social platforms that just seem to thrive on posting arguementitive, conflicting or mis-information!
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Ok! You've found one but what is its purpose as any pressurised oil to the shafts (with minimal pressure) leaks out via bearings and gears are splash lubricated and other side of that plate is the clutch at similar or atmospheric pressure ie. none! I'd guess the gasket is superflous or acting as a shim - who knows?
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Why ask - just buy them! Genuine Suzuki are about £8.00 each, pattern parts vary from £2 - £5 / each. And they are same gasket as used on all 1052 / 1127 / 1157 engines!
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How can you fit a gasket that is not even listed as a part, let alone not available? I can't immediately think of any assemblies INSIDE any engine that requires a gasket - seals and o rings, yes but gaskets - no! Correct me if i'm wrong but I seem to recall that plate having a machined / ground face which when mated with the milled gallery face would produce an adequately sealed assembly? Just saying, my daily uses no gaskets on its external cases other than cam covers.
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Signal generator question
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Best to use the matching components but sometimes they are interchangable - if the pins and sockets match they might swap. The rotor's are the important bit as they can affect actual trigger points.