Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Denso's or NGK's are std. fitment but Iridiums aren't and they really aren't suited for use with carbs!
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
I hear noone about the conrods... The real challenge...
No idea what they can handle, I'm actually also curious what the air cooled engines can take, I'm not brave enough to try it, I already had a snapped con rod in the past.
The '493' Katana rod is a proven high horsepower rod even if re-bushed for 20mm pins. If the application demands hours and hours of flat out running then all components are 'generally hours limited' so get replaced on cyclical basis! In my opinion its the acceleration / deceleration cycles that do the most damage, just like Nitrous is hard on pistons and rods but a turbo (hp - hp) is soft on them. I guess only by destructive testing or use, do you find definitive answers!
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It makes not a lot of difference two low tension connections per coil, two high tension outputs - coil 1 has plug wires to 1&4, the other feeds 2&3. It's a wasted spark arrangement so 1&4 spark together and 180 degrees later 2&3 will fire then it all happens again. LT side connections really ain't fussy!
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No one ever complains that Blandit rear brakes are particularly bad as std., so that sort of implies is the Brembo caliper! There may not be anything actually wrong with it, function wise, but more than likely the piston areas don't match the master cylinder piston size ratio - either under or oversize of each will give poor brake performance. Different pads may help but will always feel wrong / not right!
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Pretty sure the answer is No! Or at least not without a lot of machining and maybe welding.
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Absolutely! If you can't either the caps are mixed up, they aren't for that head, the cam is bent or the head is warped! Those are in order of likelihood of occurance!
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16 hours ago, wraith said:
Going to be doing this over winter, as my charging voltage is reading 14.2 to 14.3v at 3000 rpm
What's wrong with that? Compared to some others I've seen its about spot on, it'll keep battery well charged but not over-charged!
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4 hours ago, peter1127 said:
it still needs to be able to deal with vacuum or it will smoke like a mf
I considered that but as fuel flow via intake is independent of vacuum with efi, I was considering using a BOV as a priority valve or open with vacuum, close with boost. Who knows if it'll work but costs nowt to try or add a carbon seal!
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What I was planning was 4 injectors close to head with single throttle body made from S&S shorty carb - would fool casual observer! Response never was an issue, just accurate fueling. Short primary exhaust 28mm tube to 32/35mm pipe to turbine worked well enough
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Forget my references to the 'ATU' - I see from the pic that yours is all electronic. The big hex is part of the rotor which is keyed to the c/shaft - otherwise instructions stand. Yes hold the big one, turn the little one - turn the key around as it'll take a bit of torque and using the short end will give better control over force applied!
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You say a 'suck through' has disadvantages but your proposal seems to have just as many just different! Packaging for one and laggy response for another. I think i've only seen one or two 'remote' turbo's fitted in bikes - neither were very good, they worked but not very well! Experience shows that either front mount turbo and blow through or rear mount and draw / suck through work well - i've done both but may try a suck through but with EFI to improve the fueling aspect - old skool looks but with better set up possibilities.
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4 hours ago, Joseph said:
A 40 hp difference between both bikes kind of answers that question
Ain't just cams though!
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And a bit before that when 5* was available for Jags and Aston's that needed 100+ octane.
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This should help . . . . . and I assume you have a manual? Note : std isn't a cap head bolt ! But the big hex is effectively keyed to the crank so can be used to rotate engine as required - do this with the hex bolt or a cap head and it'll generally snap!
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Glad to provide the memory jog - useful having contacts in obscure series!
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Depends on use I guess? ie. Drag racing will probably hit 11-12k every run, maybe 4x and last a year or two? Prostock will see far higher rpm's but a new billet crank will be replaced after 15-16 passes! A race bike may not need that top end if gearing and torque allow taller gears to work, thus improving longevity. I'd guess the best people to ask are the Classic 24hr Endurance guys - they must balance power with longevity?
As its a roller bearing, excessive pressure and oil flow can actually be bad! Too much oil causes the bearings to 'skate' instead of roll and wear occurs. I'd say Suzuki knew what they were doing as used well these dinosaurs bottom ends can be bullet proof. Rotating mass is the enemy of rpm - with a cast crank, its easy to carve off weight but not so easy with a GSX? Everything else is std. higher rpm optimised for racing type mods - don't forget cams and maybe Ti spring caps - lighter so better valve float control. Pick Rupperton's brain - he's built enough to know what does and doesn't work!
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No different to dyno'ing any other vehicle - best if its actually running, sufficient fuel, oil water etc. Tyres at recommended pressures and everything fixed so that it won't fall off. Obviously for an older vehicle the rpm's won't be as extreme and a good operator should have some reasonable mechanical sympathy - after all if over reving it puts a rod out - he'll have to clean up all the oil and mess LOL!
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If the carbs are running rich and the plugs are fouling then a move from 8's to 6's will improve running BUT they are running very hot in comparison so if you get a bit of power and revs on, you could melt the tips off which can damage pistons! The recommended plugs are really the best ones if the tune is corrected, and the best way of doing that is the dyno - costs a bit but its quicker than 'road tuning'.
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Considering most carbs use plastic floats, I'm not sure use of this stuff on bike carbs can be recommended LOL!
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1 minute ago, Reinhoud said:
You will need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Maybe a difference in terminology but as far as I'm aware, 'Rising Rate' FPR's work by increasing at a fixed %. A turbo FPR should be a boost referenced device that is 1:1 ratio with pressure increased in direct proportion to boost pressure, no more, no less above its static base pressure. Although not the smallest FPR's - Malpassi Turbo FPR's work well once the base spring pressure is reduced to bike carb friendly levels.
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Other than using a known set of carbs that were taken off a running engine the same day - no, not really. Or a brand new set that have never been used!
Sometimes even the 'mighty fix all ultrasonics' struggle to clear the tiniest of jet drillings due to the build up of rock hard crud, so part replacement is the answer!
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
WHAT !!!!!!!
I think it's a translation problem - we have Dutch speakers so maybe problem in native language and let us deal with Google's interpretation?
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That sort of boost pressure is in the no-mans land for pumps - its too high for normal hi pressure carb type pumps (that normally top out @ about 10psi) and too low for a EFI pump as although perfectly capable, you'll be bypassing most of the flow back to the tank. This is of course assuming you are using blow through carbs and not EFI . . . . . . in which case most EFI pumps will do 3 bar + 1 bar boost.
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You've got to take off 100kpa (atmospheric pressure) to see what boost is. Why such a high static fuel pressure? Have you not got a boost compensated FPR?
JE 79mm High Comp Pistons Machined For Turbo
in Forced Induction
Posted
Whilst you know what engine you have, I / we don't so difficult to offer advice!