Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Old plug ceramic colour method is a bit 'hit & miss' with unleaded fuels - they tend to 'show lean'. If the bottom of the thread is black / sooty its rich, brown to tan is about right IMO. Ideally use a wideband lambda but with a short open exhaust it can read leaner than actual due to atmospheric oxygen contamination.
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Why - looks fine to me, one might say a bit rich actually! And from lack of soot in the dump pipe, you haven't pushed it yet!
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Get a manual, read it and check the jetting in the carbs to that stated in the manual - would be a good start! Then clean the carbs, get the airbox on and carbs back to std. jetting and try again . . . . . . then come back for better diagnosis as we'll have something to work from!
BTW - we hate . . . . . "my bike doesn't run, whats wrong" type questions ! ! !
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Its Biden's fault . . . . . . if you believe Trump
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On 4/3/2025 at 8:44 PM, johnr said:
motocross throttles are under a quarter turn from shut to open, but not for push pull throttles.
I used a MX 1/4 turn on the Purple Big CC kat whilst I had that - single pull cable with a roller quadrant so cable exit was parallel with bars - neater routing. Never had any problems closing throttle whilst just using RS flattie spring tension. Also had two step fitted, bit of an animal without bars!
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Whoops ! Wasn't obvious!
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Does the stock GSXR have a caliper bracket? Most OEM solutions will mount calipers to fork legs directly for rigidity! It is highly unlikely a 1988 GSXR caliper will mount to a 1981 GSX fork leg without DIY bracketary! A 220mm dia disc seems small for a GSXR - like you are using the GSX discs? In which case, why bother as brake performance will be exactly the same. Better solution would use whole GSXR front end - wheel, forks, yokes & brakes into the GSX chassis!
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With a 4 cyl you'll have two orange / white (usual suzuki) 12v+ Ign Live and two different (for 600) Haynes says white to 1&4 and Black / yellow to 2&3.
If you get a big bang, timing is 180 degrees out so coils diff coloured wires need swapping!
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1 hour ago, Marc clayton said:
You don’t have a pic of the coil wires on the bike do you?
mine won’t fire and I’m thinking I’ve got the wires fitted wrongThe OP was a 'fly by nighter' - joined, and stayed here for 5 days, just long enough to get his bike fixed with our help!
So don't expect a reply!
Its hard to get the coil wiring wrong! Two terminals with two wires and coil will work whichever way they are connected!
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Or throw a DJ kit at it for an 850 - will be pretty close enough to optimise later through road use. Either way it costs - time or money!
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If it don't idle down - you've got a vac. or intake leak somewhere! I'd expect a reading up towards 9 - 10 at proper idle speed that drops on blip, goes high on release and settles at above level. Random overflows . . . . . float valves not fully seating (stating the obvious but they rarely leak from other reasons or you've crashed in your garage!) 0.001 - 0.0025" clearances don't sound right - even on a hot engine!
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
what's wrong with mods
I'm gonna get a ban for helping a brother out . . . . . .
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Step back from the wiring! Orange/Green is a switched live to indicator and idiot bulb circuits. Black/White is earth / ground / negative. All work via switching to ground. Connecting Orange 'Anything' to Black/White is a dead short and would be, in the words of Keith Flint, - 'I'm a Fire Starter' LOLs
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I'd ride a 'slower normal'. Use the gears and keep a reasonable load on. Occasional 80-90% rpm won't hurt, just don't stay there. 500 miles change the oil and then enjoy it!
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Cut the blocks off and crimp on some decent Bullets and insulated sleeves!
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9 hours ago, Duckndive said:
And the spacer plate suggests its had a lock up on it at some point as well
Pressure plate shows no signs - also no buttons fitted!
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Would guess at early 1100 slabby but don't recognise inside of pressure plate! I'm guessing it's a hydraulic operation?
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I don't disagree with the possible diagnosis but is there really water behind that location - would be an absolute bitch to cast / get the mould sand out ! I guess a sheet of plexiglass, clamped down, air and soapy water test will prove or eliminate, cracks in that position (between valves and valves - plug hole) not uncommon in GSX or GSXR oil cooled which do have coolant jets on the chamber and generally have no ill effects ?
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11 hours ago, Supa said:
Interesting, If it stays still its usually referred to as STATIC Reciprocating means it moves, yes frnt wheel but the plates are stationary so in my dictionary thats static.
Static as they are fixed to something but not fixed in 'space' as the fork leg moves with the wheel due to road imperfections. I thought this was primarily a sprung / unsprung weight question and removing those clunky old valve bodies should definately affect the way the wheel / lower leg moves!
At the end of the day, I would defy anyone to be able to tell the actual difference in handling or suspension reaction if I placed / or removed 20 or 30 grams somewhere on a bikes suspension in a 'before and after' type test! Maybe a MotoGP level rider might but anyone else Nah!
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Cutter refers to part of the fitting that literally cuts into the face cut end of the rubber inner hose. The braid is only there for protection. You could use plain rubber hose but normal fittings won't work with it as it usually relies on push on barbed or crimped on fittings. No one would use PTFE linered hose @ -10 size due to cost & meltage due to heat with cooler use! Look at 'Think Automotives website for info on all things hose related !
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As said, wrap SS hose with masking or insulation tape where you cut, don't forget to fit the fitting 'nut' before cutting, don't cut SS braid back - the fitting is designed to capture. cutter fittings are good with rubber as forms a secondary seal, dont use nylon covered especially near exhaust. I used dash 10 but found it better to run ouside of pipes 1 & 4 as between was too close IMO.! Pic's shown turbo but was NA before and equally tight!
Oh and cooler fittings at bottom are fine - cooler will NOR drain!
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Its not a 'weekend type' swap! There is a huge stroke difference between GSX and GSXR in regard to barrel hts. There are lube and oil drainage issues. The gasket land areas around cam chain tunnels are different, minimal and missing in certain areas. You loose oil cooling facility and a GSXR isn't cool (rather hot actually) without it! For racing it works but for road bike - NAH! too impractical IMO (and I did it!)
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If you don't want peoples thoughts - don't ask for them!
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Sorry to say this but you bought a box / boxes of parts, assembled them and trusted they would work? Did you not question why everything was in boxes? I hope you paid very little money cos I think you got burnt! And yes, water will find a way into cylinders at idle and even not running - warped head / block, porous or cracked head / cylinders or multitude of other ways!
parts list of bits needed?
in Forced Induction
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May not require rebuild - increase crankcase breathers / venting first.