Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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For info, and for what its worth, the big engine of mine uses -6 ptfe lined hose, x8 injectors, in top rail, looped at end into lower rail with FPR at other end and return to tank. Lower spec Bosch pump ie. NOT 044 ( I don't like the current draw with them ) Plenty enough fuel for 350+hp although my steel rails may have slightly bigger bore.
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16 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
the 750 J/K takes 4,5l of engine oil. 4,8l with filter change.
I thought that - as do the 1100's! Basically, if its not in the middle of the glass - its too low!
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Nice - how about making the flat section under the rail a little thicker and have a clamp over (like a handlebar clamp), one between cyl 1 & 2 and one between 3 & 4 ?
Couple of c/sunk M6 cap heads per clamp - Easy to remove rail and well clamped / held if secured to plenum?
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Whilst these are your bikes - your trainset type deals, it makes me smile when asking for a 'nice torquey road bike engine', then proceed to outline a request for a 40% HP gain! Generally performance items are geared towards HP not torque (although they are linked). Airflow, intake efficiency and cylinder filling is where you improve torque, so a modest carb increase, good porting but retaining std. valves or modest larger intake and maybe a cam with better lift but not lengthened duration. An exhaust of 4-2-1 configuration with long primaries is usually better for torque. Don't go chasing RPM - its not important and can lead to more problems!
The 1085 is a good base for a lugger - cranks ok at sub 100hp level - its when they get over revved, problems occur. If the money is available then indexing and welding the crank is no bad thing but brings nothing really if rpm's controlled. Suzuki built a good engine, you just need to polish the edges a bit IMO!
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2Ah - I didn't know you could get something so small! I'd be wary - twin 55w lamps + tail & brake lights is about 140w, so @ nominal 13.2v = 10.6A, flat battery in less than approx 10mins. Add in ign., fuel pump and other assorted electricity - hmmm!
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Carb'd turbo bikes were around at least 20 years before injection started to be widely adopted - my 1st was an S&S carb'd suck through in late 80's / early 90's.
No more electrons than a normal NA bike!
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I've got steel buckets and fuel rail - came from Jenvey at 14mm and as far as I know, they don't do any other. I've never heard of decreasing size due to boost!
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Stainless - good choice especially if you weld it better! Plus it polishes brilliantly. Regarding the injector cup question - how about drilling the fuel rail to take the cup od. Just press in and weld tube to the cup chamfer - a stubby bit inside the tube won't matter with 3 bar fuel pressure. I do envy your engineering skills as I have the toys but not the skills experience!
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Whilst fitting bigger cams to a std size engine can be a + / - thing, the proposed engine is 20% larger with bigger valves for increased breathing. Giving it a std cam would be like fitting it with 30mm choke carbs - it'll be REALLY torquey but a bit flat at the top when compared to its smaller bore brothers imo. A small hop up in cam spec would be no bad thing - better torque, 160+ hp and completely streetable (with other suitable components obviously)
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34 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Mount below the sump at the back right I have the none return value inline before the pump like most people have.
Why before pump? Most check valves have a crack pressure which holds oil back before pump but if placed after the pump will easily overcome the resistance & stop any backflow!
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Why use a 'higher' pressure pump? It doesn't need to build pressure - just flow a volume of 'waste' oil discharge. Although the pump may draw oil vertically, every time it empties the sump can it has to start again and the can vent won't help in that respect. Personally, I'd mount the pump down low / equal height to sump can so oil flow by gravity is constant and if you have a check valve, fit it AFTER the pump so pumped oil won't flow backwards after pump shut off. Sorry if reply seems naive - I have a crank driven mechanical pump so these electrical ones are alien to me LOL!
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If I may ask . . . . why? for what reason? This was an often discussed topic on the old 200mph.org forum.
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You're not the 1st or will be the last, to get caught out by the good / duff battery situation!
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@Suzukian - you are posting solutions to problems that don't exist here - its an oilcooled engine with a unit alternator / regulator / rectifier.
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1 hour ago, Traz1132 said:
The rubber T price is very stubby either end so would struggle to get a clamp on
Its between the carb bodies which are secured to the rack - the tee can't go anywhere!
And a zip tie on the hose barb will clamp enough on the inlet hose.
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An oval is just a squashed circle - a correctly sized circularly holed filter will fit an oval correctly and won't obscure the cresent shaped vent.
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Technically yes but as those ports used to balance the carbs everything would require disconnection during that work!
Don't take my words as gospel as I use FI so don't worry about pitots and such like! A knowledgeable adult will either confirm or blow me outta the pond!
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Try this - I do drawings for a living, but words better in this instance!
Fuel tank - fuel pump - Fuel reg - Carbs = correct although i'd put some filters in to protect pump and carbs.
FPR signal line = goes to pitot tube.
Carb float bowl vents = Pitot tube as they provide dynamic (quick response) pressure changes.
Turbo Wastegate signal = Plenum or Inlet runner as it needs boost to open.
Boost Guage = Plenum or inlet runner (obvs to see boost).
BOV = Plenum or inlet runner as it needs vacuum to open.
Some people use the pitot for everything but I would prefer that just to be used for control of fuel delivery / carb operation which really is critical!
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Ah! I did a search for AEM MAP sensors - quite a range! I honestly didn't know they existed - skool day! I have to admit they are bloody expensive though when compared to GM stuff, AEM stuff is good (so i've heard) but damn! From past experience, I tend to have 4 bungs welded in to any plenum as its far easier to plug disused ones than drilling , bunging and welding an additional one (for me atleast as my ali welding is sketchy at best!) Onwards and upwards!
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MAP sensor 'bung' ? Most MAP sensors don't mount on the plenum - admittedly i've only used GM types but they seem to be universally used unless the ECU has an integrated onboard sensor. The bung would be useful for the IAT sensor (inlet air temp) You'll also need a bung for wastegate operation line. Its coming along though!
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Maybe the earth / ground from battery to chassis / engine was poor in 1st instance, and moving it to 2nd bike improved the situation. An alternator will output more if the ground is poor as it can't regulate properly - well thats my theory and explains the symptoms!
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
The 600 teapot is likely to have a completely different advance/retard setup to a Blandit 1200. The data for this are in the genuine Suzuki workshop manuals, available online FOC. If so, this would be a contributory factor as to why your bike won't start because the advance retard curve is set in the CDI unit. I'd fit an ignition system from a bike with an 1100 or 1200 engine. Use the rotor, pick-up and CDI from the same model. A B12 CDI has different connectors than the others and are not so freely available, and as stated above, needs a (I think 100ohm) resistor in the ignition switch circuit to run.
Who said anything about a 1200 Bandit? I read it as using a 600 Blandit - could be entirely wrong but never took 'later' to mean 1200 ! Happy to be corrected though!
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41 minutes ago, andyRN said:
I'm using the gsx600f CDI. An aftermarket switch. Do I need a resistor? I thought the GSXF didn't have one??
GSXF - No, GSF - Yes . . . . . afaik !
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Another thought after your comment above - if using a Bindit CDI box you need to use corresponding ignition switch due to a resistor being fitted that allows the ign. to work.
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Gsxr750 oil problem
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yes!