Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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is #4 plug wet or dry? if wet likely electrical, if dry then you know what the answer will be! Plus if plug is wet - change it for new as they rarely get better!
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12 hours ago, ColinH said:
I like to know to know how to do it perfectly first, then completely ignore it
thanks for pointers on head distance, I’m only slightly closer than a stock setup so hopefully OK.
They are much closer as you are omitting the rubber AND it's an aluminium inlet which soaks up heat! Suggest you get it working first then try to 'improve it' or it could end up as a dogs dinner and get parked, never finished - happens too often!
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wind the idle screw in a bit - bikes aren't cars and don't idle lower than 1000 odd minimum! Usually 11 - 1200 is about right
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Never used Loctite just FT!
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22 hours ago, TonyGee said:
whats the air filter like ?
Big plastic thing with filter material in the centre!
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Stop overthinking! There is optimal positioning and there is - it works!, positioning. I used twin injector TB's by Jenvey - one in top, one in from below, neither of which point at valves - they just work acceptably well! One point to watch it positioned too close to head a) they can get heat soaked and b) there is a cam chain tunnel in the way of the fuel rail so other things influence where things can go!
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assume all the float valves are working and are set to open? Yes bowls are vented - usually biggish hose between bodies above bowls. have the bowls a drain screw - loosen till fuel flows out.
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Agreed on that - a M8 with a well tuned Blandit fitted some FCR41's and had them properly set up - but, although excellent power, proved not good on the road. Changed to RS36's = night & day difference, still good power 150's hp but torque to die for! If it was std'ish Blandit say, 34's would surprise a lot of people!
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Or re-centre the engine 4mm to the right! If the chain is clearing the tyre & is clearing the frame, I think moving the engine and preserving the chain clearance to cases would be preferable!
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This is a YT video from what i'd call an excellent engine reconditioning company - its a diesel engine but the principles are exactly the same. If you don't want to see the whole procedure, go to 29.30 for the valve work, but the rest is quite informative. Bear in mind that a dealer was quoting $20k for a new engine, I'm pretty sure this level of detail work would have resulted in a $8-10k bill - but based on what they did and found with parts for the rods at the end - which would you prefer to have (cost excluded)?
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Personally i'm not liking the look of the basket! Being steel they rarely get too damaged or worn - its the hub that takes the brunt due to being soft - yours looks brand new! I've never seen a steel basket with that much marking. Chasing the lock-up set-up can wait - if there is 3mm gap its good to go. As noted above, is the push rod correct length? When I swapped a spring clutch into my diaphragm equipped GSXR, I used the std push rod but added a 6mm ball bearing which give correct operation - i've used M6 nuts before as well. Has it ever worked correctly, as its seems like its been going on for a while?
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If its blowing out oil - you've got crankcase pressure problems, and if the engine is off, and stood upright and you still can't see oil in the sight glass - its underfilled! The first issue means either a blocked or defective breather or routed badly or connected back on itself making a closed loop . . . . . or the engine is worn and breathing too heavily! The second - put more oil in till the level is between the marks!
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On 10/31/2024 at 6:20 PM, peter1127 said:
If you run the pump at 90psi it flows around 225L/Hr
So if you go north of 400hp I can imagine this will become an issue.
Using this logic - if you need 50lbs of boost to go 400+hp, I think you've got more fundamental issues!
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If you like / are into / can understand, coding - the Speeduino could be a good choice as its based around an Arduino Mega - not very small board but packs a big spec! And I believe it has a degree of 'self learning' capability which could be useful - I was a bit sceptical of this a few years ago but they are really getting quite good. I saw a video of a Holley unit taken out of the box, given the basic info about engine, plugged in and it ran. Then on a drive it learnt and improved maps continually to a very accurate result - its not AI nor SkyNet but its bloody good nonetheless!
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12 hours ago, ColinH said:
Maybe I’m coming across as know it all but that’s far from the case. I do machine parts to tight tolerance but engine machining is new so trying to understand norms.
If I do ream them myself I will blue up and take a print to see if alignment maintained. The other option is to machine a reamer guide engaged with seat taper.
Trust me, the fact that a guide has been removed and a new one fitted WILL mean the valve seat is not concentric nor perpendicular to the guide - no matter how careful you are. Commercial valve seat cutters use air bearings to ensure the cutters are perfectly aligned with the guides - I assume you don't have one, the average mill will have run-out and backlash in its quill, spindle and table - all these tolerances build up such that every guide could be mis-aligned fractions of degrees. If you are VERY lucky valve refacing and lapping in may work but generally it won't and for exhaust valves it is particularly necessary due to the heat transfer aspect especially with turbo applications!
There are lots of very bright and clever machinists on this site and even they will trust their engine rebuilding engineering to other professionals, as 'nearly right' is not good enough! Not knocking ambition but has to be weighed against ability!
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Whilst most of us don't give a toss about undersized guides as it's the head or engine builders responsibility to re-size! Plus Suzuki San only has to fit his valves whilst APE have to allow for any OEM & aftermarket offerings! I trust you have seat cutting gear as new guides need seats recutting - just saying!
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Hardly Abletoo's use 1" bars - everyone else in the universe uses 7/8" - explain that one if you can
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I know of no bike that has required two fuel pumps! Dunno what a Bosch 044 pumps but is usually a go-to even with it's big amp draw!
Just checked 270-300L/HR sufficient for 500hp
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LOL's in that case, seeing as you are resigned to boring cylinders anyway I'd punch it out to 80mm / 1216cc. Wider choice of pistons and CR available - even budget Busa pistons for low cost boosted use. MTC 10:1 turbo pistons known to have thick crowns to allow machining . . . . . . or just use high comp and add a spacer plate - its a bit ghetto but it works!
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But as the OP was talking about sourcing a 1127 crank, the above doesn't help them!
And given time, tools, ingenuity and sheer bloody mindedness - anything can be made to fit most anything else!
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GS1000 / 1100 / 1150 cranks and rods can pretty much survive with std. oil flow / pressure as it amounts to virtual drip / splash lubrication. So increased pressure / flow only benefits the cams which is no bad thing - the increased oil also offers a degree of additional cooling - Suzuki didn't come up with the GSXR SACS system on a whim! Gearbox doesn't need an oil feed but the clutch does so unless you are drag racing when clutch gets reset every pass, its best not to restrict oil to gearbox long term!
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Whilst you know what engine you have, I / we don't so difficult to offer advice!
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Denso's or NGK's are std. fitment but Iridiums aren't and they really aren't suited for use with carbs!
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
I hear noone about the conrods... The real challenge...
No idea what they can handle, I'm actually also curious what the air cooled engines can take, I'm not brave enough to try it, I already had a snapped con rod in the past.
The '493' Katana rod is a proven high horsepower rod even if re-bushed for 20mm pins. If the application demands hours and hours of flat out running then all components are 'generally hours limited' so get replaced on cyclical basis! In my opinion its the acceleration / deceleration cycles that do the most damage, just like Nitrous is hard on pistons and rods but a turbo (hp - hp) is soft on them. I guess only by destructive testing or use, do you find definitive answers!
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would fcr's fit with this setup ?
in Oil Cooled
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whilst the fcr39's are bloody nice - why not just fit RS40's ???