Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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1 hour ago, wakko said:
Wtf????
Show some respect! If you'd bothered to read the OP replies you'd see why it made little sense! At least they've signed up as a trader and not trying to be 'an under the counter' type seller!
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I gave in with the GSXR - as the intercooler took all the oil cooler space, the oil cooler got relocated to rear, under the seat. Stock curved cooler fits between frame rails nicely and added R6 rad fan gives lots of airflow but there is the tyre / stone throwing risk . . . . . hope it doesn't happen!
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Recently, when I busted a float tower leg off one of my RS40's, I was looking for spares and usual source - Allen's - have stopped trading but I found someone who apparently has taken over supply and he / they quoted me parts availability and costs so may be worth a try? I've only emailed so here is their email addy - topham@t-online.de The guy I dealt with is Steve Topham - just found phone No. +49 (0) 5474 9011. Web - www.topham.de
They may be in Germany going by the .de code but they seemed ok conversing in English, I doubt a body will be cheap though - have you tried drilling / screw extraction? Can be frustrating as one of mine came to me with tip of idle screw snapped off in the jet orrifice - that took some digging to get out!
Happy hunting!
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The coolers look a bit narrow but could be picture? My suck through used a 260 wide x 19 row and used to get v. hot especially if stuck in traffic, hoses were -10 for lots of flow.
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Look like GSXR 11 carbs to me as they had the central idle adjust whereas Blandit one were remote to one side or the other? Other than that and i'm stumped!
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From the loom drawing in the manual - it isn't connected to anything, its just a plug! See attached - lower portion just beside speed sensor & oil switch
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Word of caution - the fuel pump isn't going to thank you putting it there - these engines get hot, real hot with turbo's and that is about the hottest place not on the exhaust manifold. Behind or under the engine will be much cooler, don't forget a decent fuel filter as well will need space.
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I know welders love to be critical of any welds they see, that are not done by them but whilst the Suzuki robot welds are 1st year apprentice stylee - I have to ask - have they broken, cracked, failed or bits fallen off in the past 25-30 years of use? Being controversial, i'd say they're good to go! Especially when you see some of the Pigeon shit welding that people throw up on the socials!
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May not be top end related at all - sometimes an exhaust leak at the head can sound like cammy!
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Good luck finding suitable injectors - being so first gen technology the injectors are a 'bit odd'! I have a rail that came off a GPX 1100 or 750 and those injectors whilst closer to more common Bosch ones, isn't quite there - happy hunting! Honestly, unless I was doing a restoration, I wouldn't have chosen those unless you are prepared to modify ie. fit a proper fuel rail etc.
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Similar principle to the laser would be ultrasonic ranging. I used to have an ultrasonic survey device - accuracy of 5mm over 10m!
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Odd - I've had 4 Dyna 2000's and multiple Dyna 'S's andnever used threadlocker with any of them - changed pick-ups on the 'S' types and used SS M5 cap head screws & plain washers with the 2K types - never a problem!
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I will wait to see the responses to this as, i'm sure most people don't consider engine mounts as things to modify! That frame is considerably modified especially on nearside. A modified Blandit engine shouldn't suffer from oil pressure or heat problems IF it actually has sufficient radiator area - that one looks minimal ! Trick bike though!
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9 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
I found another link from the last time it sold. Those numbers were a bit suspect for what looks like a stock bike, but apparently it has Ti rods, cams, and head work. Also says "race carbs", but those look like stock carbs so probably just jetted. This link also has better photos.
https://raresportbikesforsale.com/track-day-tuesday-1989-heron-durex-suzuki-gsxr1100/
Very odd - dyno sheet showing 128hp ! ! ! If it has all the stuff 'claimed', it only produces 3hp more than stock! Hell i've seen a DJ kitted stock bike (ok, with can) make 10hp over stock - either a misprint or something is Dr Strange!
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Odd - orange - 12v+, Yellow / Black - sender but the Black / White is a ground and gauges 'normally' ground via the sender ? Wonder why Suzuki san did it that way!
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Carve hole in bowl, make it fit - it's not as if it needs to hold liquid LOLs
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5 hours ago, ColinH said:
Hunted around on carbs available and have gone for a super cheap copy S&S as only need butterfly, great idea thanks Gixer1460.
Save me going down a rabbit hole that's sets me back a month in making something. I can always slightly angle the mount flange on turbo to improve leg clearance as well.That is going to look 'too cool for skool'.
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16 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
why?
cos we is f**kin' OCD neat freaks OK !
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I realise the shortage of space but have you considered using a big dia. flatslide carb? All the springs & cable gubbins is present and an adapter for MAP sensor is easy enough. None of the internals other than the slide are required so can be gutted as redundant . . . . I was going to gut an S&S to keep the 'old skool' vibe but an FCR 41 from a MX bike would do just as well - just a thought?
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The basket spins on a needle roller bearing so there will be a 'degree of looseness' so some movement is possible / probable.
Juddery / draggy clutch is usually hammered / notchy hub which can be filed smooth but rarely works for long time.
Steels can go in either way - its not important although I used to put all in same direction, one way or the other! Others may have other opinions.
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Don't forget it won't be proper unless you burn your left knee on the dump pipe whilst sucking your jeans and knee into the intake on the right - avoiding either of those and backto skool!
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'Flexible turbo mount' ? Is that a way of saying you are hanging it rather than letting the exh. pipework and inlet manifold do the supporting? With my original Kawazuki the 3 tube frame spine offered plenty of attachment points so I welded a simple bracket down to pick up one of the turbine housing bolts - carried all the weight and allowed everything else to move around as it wanted. Likewise with the 1460 turbo hung out the front, it uses a couple of turnbuckle type rods and rod end joints to carry all of its weight whilst the exh. manifold provides the positioning restraint. I'm sure yours will be elegant engineering not a hacked bracket LOL!
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Is it not the valve size?
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That would seem to imply more of a problem due to float valve function ie. dropping level increases mechanical leverage on the valve?
But, if the dropped level is fine at boosted levels, what happens when no boost present ie. at cruise rpm's - would that give lean condition?
1230 - EF'N-Kat
in Air Cooled
Posted
Regarding the ATU - depends if you are using a 'normal GSX' ignitor or an EFE one . . . . as the EFE Ignitor doesn't use an ATU. But whatever the bob weights on the ATU should be free to move, out and inward against spring pressure with spring assist return. Sometimes the weights lock in the rotor slots due to wear - easy to spot if manually operated. At a guess if the ignitors are mixed up and a EFE one used with an ATU you may get weird ignition advance which could cause problems!