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Gixer1460

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Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. On 5/5/2024 at 4:58 PM, Upshotknothole said:

     Interested in more top end, the RS38s already make it boring to ride around town legally. 

    If that's the case why do you want more 'top end' - just where you can't use it? Bar Room HP is great - but Stoplight to Stoplight accel bottom end is FAR more useful! A 1216 kit will benefit all through the range.

  2. A plastic bottle is fine as long as you remember to empty it occasionally - its embarrassing when it pukes over LOL! 

    Oil gets blown out due to pressurisation, so just connecting the hose back to the crankcase won't work! Connecting the hose to a can with drain back can work as long as the can is separately vented itself. Sometimes the blown out oil is milky due to condensation and some peeps don't like putting it back into the engine although if its removed it will return naturally anyway unless you run the crankcases under vacuum constantly!

    • Like 1
  3. Thanks Dave - that helps and looks logical. The shock movement is tiny though - maybe 20-25mm? - seems less than optimal but if it works, it works. The orientation of the levers and links on yours is similar but completely different to the OP question picture - in that one, the link / arm relationship certainly isn't parallel and more divergent hence my question!

  4. 9.5v is an issue - should be 12v or battery voltage! If you've got voltage drop its usually high resistance somewhere - either bad connection / corroded connection / bad earth. Usual indicator circuit is battery+ to fuse, fuse to relay, relay to ind. switch, ind switch to bulbs, bulbs to ground. So + volts are only required between battery and relay, so that's where i'd be looking first.

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  5. Those dogs are Donald Ducked for sure. Sharp square edges are req'd for positive engagement & retention. Even better is an undercut as later gears got.

    • Like 1
  6. 15 hours ago, Ragerover said:

    IMG_3641.jpeg

     

    Can you or anyone explain how that shock linkage works because I can't! - whichever way the arm moves, the shock doesn't ! ! !  Confused!

    • Like 1
  7. Can't think of any reason to block a jet within a carb - turbo or otherwise . . . . . a guy in his shed is unlikely to know more than the Mikuni knowledge vault when it comes to carb jetting ie. if its there, its there for a reason.

  8. 13 hours ago, andyroach said:

    Did the Marvel (Which in the UK is a powdered milk. I'm assuming it's something else in the USA)cure it? 

    I suspect it's 'Marvel Mystery Oil' - widely used in the colonies to fix everything LOL's

  9. 1 hour ago, TxGsRider said:

    32900-17E201 is listed as an igniter Unit 88-91 gsxr 750 California Only per Partzilla

    That would explain why it wasn't 'visible' at UK or European sources! Even so, it should be 'full power' unless the emission restrictions extend into the CDI's as well? This is really getting strange as its acting like the Jap market bikes with restriction based on speed but 86 mph is too low, they are restricted to 112mph I believe?, all done within the speedo - needle passes sensor and ignition cut occurs.  This bitsa is turning into an enigma!

  10. No - TPS of this vintage were idiot devices to only retard ignition in lower gears and for noise emission standards! A DJ 2000i or Ignjet? system is a good idea if further tuning mods - Head work, Bore size, CR increase etc., otherwise a stock system is still ok.

    • Like 1
  11. Dunno what the 'M-Max' device is - certainly not Suzuki std fitment! Maybe some sort of restriction device? If it won't go past 86mph it is certainly restricted - what happens when it gets to 86mph and what are the rev's / rpm doing? Same in 4th / 5th / 6th ? I don't believe 94 GSXR's had speed sensing integrated - TPS was just for load adjustments.

  12. 2 hours ago, scotteslic said:

    Would you put a O² sensor in each exhaust tube with allow through

    Waste of time and due to proximity to cyl. head or upstream of turbo (depending on style chosen) would likely fail in short order! A single sensor after turbo is usual placement but be warned if running a shortie dump pipe the sensor can be confused with atmospheric oxygen due to sensor being close to exhaust exit! Try not to fit before turbo as pressure and elevated temps not good for them!

  13. You do realise that if you get it 'bob on' for sea level riding, with the added weight / drag / power loss at altitude - you might not get home again? :tu

    Won't comment on potential jetting as there are far to many variables in play. But that outfit and your situation almost cry out for an EFI conversion - self adjusting for altitude!

  14. I've had 4 Dyna 2K's - still have one on my 1460 and never had a problem but others have - maybe the far east production had an effect ? But the Ignitec is newer tech and reports are good about them plus made closer to home if there is a problem. Haven't used one or even seen one fitted so thats the limit of my recommendation!

  15. I think (believe) this one (in the centre) to be either GSX750ET or GSX1100EFE. The one on the right is simple Neutral only. If the drums do rotate in different directions its sort of clear why you don't get all the outputs ( i'm almost surprised you get any!)

    IMG_4867.thumb.JPG.b875dddcbb164daef567f7eb06e47b66.JPG

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