Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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The copper ones just flatten & are worst than useless. Often peeps forget to dig out old seals & hence you get doubles! The metal sided fibre are resilient and are the ones to use!
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Generally with most ECU's, the more money, the more features! Megasquirt basic starts with 2 injector and 2 ignition outputs - enough to run a 4 cylinder using batch fire fueling and wasted spark ign. 4 injector outputs broadens the applications out to 8 cylinders with batch down to 4 cyl. sequential (if cam sensor included) Although I believe if running NA only, a MAP sensor can be used to establish an inlet sync pulse on #1 cylinder thus allowing sequential operation - I personally prefer a toothed cam & sensor (single pin in camshaft and Hall sensor in cover over is as simple as it gets).
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On 12/27/2025 at 12:35 PM, Gixer1460 said:
The TB was the easy bit off Eblag & cheap £60!
Received this today & it's better than I was expecting! It's machined well, from decent alloy with good anodising! The TPS ring looks to accept most common sensors having a D drive. Into the parts store for later incorporation.
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So, are you saying that Suzuki used the wrong screw solution, over multiple engine designs and model evolutions and never considered changing it or found it to be a problem?
Throwing some rough numbers at this - 70mm say length plate from 20C to 200C expands about 0.15mm, steel screws would have similar but proportionaly less expansion, Alloy casting over same distance and at same temp rise would move twice as much ie about 0.30mm. As the alloy has greater expansion the screws are put in increased tension and with a countersunk interface, the clamping force would minutely increase, would it not?
So, whether the oil port or the gearbox plate had or had no gaskets, its clamping, thus sealing, would be adequate regardless! All fairly immaterial as there are far more 'leaky' joints that could loose oil flow or pressure that often get overlooked.
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18 hours ago, imago said:
I've always presumed it was to allow for heat expansion.
The plate is held with countersunk screws which will loosen when the plate expands and contracts due to the taper. There isn't room to use cap or hex head bolts which stretch and contract rather than loosening, so the gasket takes up expansion & contraction pressures without affecting the torque applied to the screws.
I can't see expansion / contraction of plate being an issue and 'if' screw loosening is an issue, then Hi Temp Loctite is the answer!
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Was going to suggest - https://www.kitsetperformance.com.au/product-page/ms3pro-mini-standalone-ecu-system-w-harness-megasquirt but Peter got there before me! Seems a more complete package - ECU, harness, Tuning s/ware, Licence and tuning cable . . . . and its smaller. I particularly like the datalogging function that writes to a flash memory card - neat! I may go this route with mine as a replacement MoTec is difficult to justify for a hobby / non racebike!
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1 hour ago, Wee Man said:
Unfortunately the 'stealers' are the most expensive source , even Robinson's with OSS discount are waaaay too expensive for what could be classed as a service item! I'd try Eblag cheap ones, buy two sets at a cost of probably half or less, what the 'official sources will charge!
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Situation normal! Don't oval the bolt holes or the carbs will be a bitch to get on! Correct way is port the alloy to match the rubber or rubber to match the hole! But in reality for a road bike it makes 2/10ths of FA difference!
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Don't you use Google? Not short of choice there! I know people hate Google but it is a global information resource and i'd certainly trust it more than asking anything on, for example, any of the social platforms that just seem to thrive on posting arguementitive, conflicting or mis-information!
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Ok! You've found one but what is its purpose as any pressurised oil to the shafts (with minimal pressure) leaks out via bearings and gears are splash lubricated and other side of that plate is the clutch at similar or atmospheric pressure ie. none! I'd guess the gasket is superflous or acting as a shim - who knows?
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Why ask - just buy them! Genuine Suzuki are about £8.00 each, pattern parts vary from £2 - £5 / each. And they are same gasket as used on all 1052 / 1127 / 1157 engines!
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How can you fit a gasket that is not even listed as a part, let alone not available? I can't immediately think of any assemblies INSIDE any engine that requires a gasket - seals and o rings, yes but gaskets - no! Correct me if i'm wrong but I seem to recall that plate having a machined / ground face which when mated with the milled gallery face would produce an adequately sealed assembly? Just saying, my daily uses no gaskets on its external cases other than cam covers.
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I never knew there was a recommendation ! Personally, I always fitted short end into block / case, with Loctite and 'bottomed out' so thread end locked into case. Never had one fail or pull out BUT this relies on using 'normal open style' nuts and not the tall, closed end APE nuts that were similar to std. Suzuki nuts used in the GSX engines. These were sometimes used in GSXR engines due to the extra thread length they offered.
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Noice - injector placement looks perfect! The spray pattern is usually a 20 - 30 degree cone, so yours will barely hit the top edge so ideal! Regarding the plenum, I thought that's a thick bit of plate - but if that's what you've got, that's what you use! Personally i'm looking to use aluminium box section - 3 or 4mm thickness, depends on what I can get. My Ali TIG skills are not great so I may tack and get others to finish . . . . . or I practice more!
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20 hours ago, Duckndive said:
I assume you are going to use your existing Motec brain then Ian ?
Unfortunately no, I can't! Well not unless I can find an old PC or laptop that will still run DOS! I tried opening some of the old mapped stuff over xmas on a 64 bit Win 11 PC and it almost laughed at me saying ' This device does not run 16 bit programes - try again loser!' LOL! So possibly the Motec M8 is condemed to history - Sean has been badgering me for years to get a new M800 / M400 but my cheap ass mentality won't let me push that V Expensive button! I'll maybe use a Minisquirt or Speeduino - plenty smart enough for what I need!
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16 hours ago, imago said:
Lock up clutch spacer I reckon.
Don't forget they aren't parallel sided - whole piece is on the piss with bolt holes parallel to crank / gearbox axis!
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10 hours ago, Dukeman said:
A 10.5mm drill is perfect fit in the spark plug hole now... + 1.25mm thread pitch = 12mm
So is the thread M12?
ChatGPT will not agree ...........
HELP...........................
From a proper, reliable source . . . https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/ngk-d9ea-spark-plug/1/005432 Why would you trust some one / thing that has never used a spanner to fix anything?
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1 hour ago, ColinH said:
Thanks for the reply to original poster, helped me think about next steps as well. As you’re the one who helped steer me towards same setup, if you want 3D files for my inlet runners if they work well then let me know. Would be least I can do with all the input you’ve given me.
I was looking at those cheap throttle bodies as cheaper to buy that than machine myself. I was looking around 50mm to keep my low end manageable.
edit: I think perhaps it will be more manageable with injection and ECU than with carb so maybe fine
Glad to help and thanks for the offer but as said it was a stalled project years ago. At that time I wanted to 'replicate' the stock inlet rubber shape with the oval flange and some other refinements so started off with rectangular blocks of aluminium so I could turn in the lathe to introduce a taper (from plenum to cyl. head). This left a rectangular flange where yours was circular. Being a bit of a pedantic wanker, I converted my little bench mill to CNC, just so I could machine those ovals LOL! Overkill - Yes, but made me happy at the time and they've been hanging over my bench, mocking me - maybe this year Eh!
I went with the 65mm TB on the basis that I was using 42mm individual TB's when blow through and I have 1460cc to feed so 65mm doesn't overly large (to me at least!) I guess we'll see!
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Good call on the Denso injectors, and in your part of the world you should be able to source easily. One crank trigger wheel is fine for a basic set-up, 36-1 tooth or 24-2 teeth work well on bikes- usually 50mm diameter to fit under cover and use std magnetic pick-up. Don't need cam sensor unless you want to have sequential fueling & ignition. Simple set-up basically runs like wasted spark / injection - very easy. @Arttuhere does a bolt on pick-up solution for GSX's which should fit a GS - hit him up for info / details.
If a Boosted set-up, get a 3bar MAP sensor . . . . 1 Bar does NA only, 2 bar does boost upto 14 odd psi, 3 bar up to 28 odd psi (but are easier to find than 2 bar!)
Fueling and Ignition will be mapped to adjust in line with increasing boost / rpm / load sensing. My own set up uses rpm vs load via Throttle position sensor to generate base Map and then uses seperate Boost compensation map to add or subtract fuel and ignition from or to the base map, but there are multiple ways to achieve the same goal.
If you do it, you'll wonder why you hadn't done it before - its a learning curve but it isn't that difficult!
I'm currently looking at reviving a 'draw through' project shelved years ago so I can simplify the multiple throttle bodies, replace with a simple plenum and injectors in the inlet runners with a single 65mm dia throttle body pre turbo. The TB was the easy bit off Eblag & cheap £60!
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Kick back and bangs on starting are classic ignition faults - 1st is, over advanced (I think), 2nd is usually timing 180 degrees out - both would be unusual together and especially if engine was 'running fine' - Weird Science!
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Whilst it may not look 'cool' these days - a rear wheel hugger will definately save your cooler, if not your engine from stone impact / puncture damage!
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On 12/19/2025 at 11:08 PM, opalmanta said:
I have been using my old enclosed race car trailer . Made three trips so far ( 6000 miles round trip each) with about 10 to go. It is a little more of an effort for me now that I am looking at 70 yr. and health challenges.
So, let me understand the logic here . . . . 13 trips (back and forth) @ 6,000 miles each = 78,000 miles ! Average fuel consumption for truck & trailer, say 25/gallon - 78000 / 25 = 3,120 gallons @ $3.00 / gallon = $9,360 ! ! ! and maybe a month to accomplish? Wouldn't it have been more sensible to hire a removals co. with a semi to do it in single hit - got to be less than 10 large? Oh and didn't factor in wear & tear on you and the truck, both of which sound like they need maintanence LOL!
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31 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
I,ve ran HSR's on Draw Thru,s and they close fine with a push pull cable
Not the same Clive - Atmospheric air pressure as opposed to boosted air pressure or more correctly low velocity against high velocity!
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Sacrificing a cheap stainless steel manifold gives flanges and some stubs as a start of a turbo manifold!
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Mk2 Bandit Turbo Build
in Forced Induction
Posted · Edited by Gixer1460
Whilst it may seem like an obvious fix but getting a spanner - ring or open end - in there is equally problematic, the lower one's moreso! I see you've used button heads, I'd suggest 'normal' cap head screws and use ball end Allen keys OR put some tubes through the plenum to give direct access to screw heads!