Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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First question is . . . . .why? These aren't renowned for 'head shake' so why? And no, that redundant bracket / post isn't suitable for a 'chassis mod' application.
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57 minutes ago, bunk said:
Made in china. Thats all i need to know.
As is the majority of stuff sold worldwide - doesn't have to mean its bad! TV's, phones, ships take your pick and try to live your life without using Chinese products!
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That's Tyne Blight - used to be a member here I think - going back a looooong way! His name pops up on Faceache now and then! He came up with a neat hydraulic clutch conversion for his EFE due in part to his disability.
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Just because Allen's don't list it on the web pages, doesn't mean they won't have it - they don't list most OEM stuff as it would be massive amount of work, but they certainly do supply it as many here will attest to. Try an email and ask the question - you have nothing to lose. Have you tried Sudco in the States?
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7 minutes ago, Motoinfo said:
No luck finding Ebog in Germany, UK shop though, cables and such. have a link by chance? Need carb kits for '82 Katana, what a PITA. thx
This company should be able to assist - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/ Mention OSS and you might get a discount but not guaranteed!
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1 hour ago, Joseph said:
Looks more like an aircooled 6 with an oilcooled head
Does indeed - and that would be the logical way to do it - a press together crank makes the bottom end 'easy' whilst the head gets the 'cut and shut' mods with split cams etc. Although clever and no doubt well executed, none of them address the issue that *onda designed out - hanging the rotor / alternator / ignition off the end of the crank making a wide engine even wider - the CBX was little wider than a GS1000 where it mattered! Bearing in mind how easy it is to deck GSX engine cases when racing, these must be getting close in spirited road use? Looks like an external elec. oil pump is included - not a bad idea with an AC bottom end !
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Regarding costs noted above, I think sales volumes comes into the equation. China, where the majority of this stuff is made, will have a moderately large market for replacement turbo's, also selling same to most of south Asia so producing enormous volumes, cheaply pays off - you undercut the OEM market with shear volume and if it only lasts 30 - 50k miles - so what they are cheap enough to treat as a service item. The rods on the other hand are a 'niche' product - I can't imagine there are but 10 Bandits in China and globally how many are going to be needed so will be low volume but still can be done cheaper.
I think personally a forged rod will be better than a cast stock rod from whoever it is sourced from - a stock cast rod has shown it is capable of living at upto 250hp level in a 'gassed up' NA engine and just shy of around 280+hp with a turbo. Most builds rarely go over these levels so i'd suggest a Maxspeeding rod would be comfortable even at a 50% increase.
Rods VERY RARELY fail structurally on their own! Major cause is oil flow / bearings and then Rod Bolt failure. So, make sure about these and anything should live a long life IMHO!
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You never tried Google? Next, you'll want one of us to buy them as well
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Maybe not the kind of engine I'd associate with a 'chair' ! Some of the diagnosis still stands though (maybe!)
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If the float bowls are not getting dynamic boost pressure the increased fuel pressure will certainly over pressure the float valves leading to flooding!
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10 hours ago, Qwik said:
Well finally took the time to open up my Engine. Now I need to figure out why that cylinder went lean. Had to be over 1150° to melt that piston like that
That ain't lean! I'd say it was quite rich possibly excessively! Witness the 'wetter' crown / valves and the cleaner appearance. The damage is detonation - see the spotting / pitting around the edges of the chamber on the head. Head doesn't appear to be massively skimmed but difficult to tell - what did the plug look like (if it survived)? Possibly leaky float valve & excess fuel = detonation? Piston crown looks well thin with some cracking but whether that was pre or post failure would be a guess! Sidecars are a strange breed - high rpm + high load for long periods - they usually kill gearboxes and being fully enclosed cooling is usually a big issue as cooling ducts add drag - I am assuming this is a racing sidecar?
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https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/ is a usual stop for all things carb related (in the UK at least). If its the fuel carb to carb connection? Try 'Fuel transfer tube O rings / seals' ? Or here - https://www.suzukiparts.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsf-bandit/gsf1200/gsf1200t-y-1996-2000-mk1-naked-and-faired.htm?vehicle_id=17#!gsf1200tycarbfittings where they are just called a 'seal' ! But thick end of £60 for all 6 though!
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1 hour ago, FJD said:
Then your jet kit is a waste of time and money, just rebuild with oem mikuni parts
You are assuming it is a DJ or JetPro etc 'performance' kit . . . . . . . . . it could just be a set of oem replacements !
And, although not optimal, a stg 1 (DJ for example) would work ok if OEM replacements were not available or un-economic.
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That sounds like a V&H Supersport - damn good pipe IMO. I used the can, repacked with straight through & steel wool and custom 4-2-1 header - best pipe I ever had!
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8 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
2 times the displacement should be right. Some bikes run fine on a small plenum, some do need a bigger plenum
Er? - Its a 200cc engine - at 2.0L plenum capacity, that is 10x not 2x !
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Or just use Dynojet or JetPro needles and jets . . . . . . . . they exist for this very reason.
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51 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Hmmm, not as easy as I hoped for..
With the RS carburetors you just looked on a list and ordered what you need, thought this would be about the same.
With RS carbs its different - they are meant to be swapped around for tuning - with regular carbs the OEM has done the tuning - hours/days/months in varying conditions to get the best result for that particular application . . . . they don't want you messing with them!
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2 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
I could, but I don't have a clue how much difference in size makes a difference in AFR.
A needle chart won't give that sort of info as AFR is very engine dependent! It can't really say if it is leaner or richer so you are back to square one!
At least with a micrometer, you could compare needles one to another and make a judgement call or do it the old school way - start lean and stone away material till the mixture is where you want it - yes, it very labour intensive, that why tuning costs loads! And as to how much, you are measuring in the 0.025mm / 0.001" range or less, so not a lot can make a difference!
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How the hell does a stock Blandit pull 17/43 gearing with any sort of accell?
I used 17/45 with a turbo 1127 huffing it along for excellent accell, top end and racing!
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No one buys 'new' Busa pistons - virtually every build uses s/hand ones even retaining old rings in some cases. Keep searching Eblag and forums, they come up fairly frequently. But if going aftermarket route due to cost - why not spec the right turbo piston for what you want and not the 'wrong' one and hoping to get the right CR. And yes high comp pistons can be used with a turbo . . . . . . just add a decomp plate. I used 1186 12.5:1 pistons with a 2mm plate - very turbo friendly!
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4 minutes ago, Steveg said:
Hi Baz,
Good point.
I will measure the position of the 630 front sprocket and make sure that it is the same as the new 530 sprocket. And make sure it is all aligned to the rear sprocket. I did think it might need a bit more than simply replacing the 630 to 530 stuff.
Steve
Also, 530 sprockets will be significantly smaller diameters for the same gear ratio / tooth count - this sometimes means they rub on swingarm pivots etc. Easily fixed with a nylon wear plate fixed to the arm!
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Long story short - without some / most of those tools, you'll have to find someone with them!
Yes, complete assemblies can be swapped in but for example a Blandit arm will probably need spacers and maybe a pivot pin change to suit the frame plus its monoshocked so that will need a mount fab'd up or you fab up some shock mounts to weld to the Blandit arm . . . . . . you get the picture, just about anything is possible but you need the tools or find someone with them (and who knows how to use them)
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Ah - good old Chinky knock off of a Dyna S. If its working correctly (not a given baring in mind from where it came) it should run exactly where it is set currently. I think that model uses original ATU (auto timing unit) for advance - is this free and working correctly? Are the two notches in the black ign. rotor engaged with the pegs in the ATU, and all free to rotate? I wouldn't be playing with timing till it runs / idles. There still could be issues in the carbs and its unusual for odd pairs of cyl's or one to get a lot hotter purely down to ignition issues! Trying to diagnose problems from 3000 miles away is never an exact science!
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Possibly the other thing to consider based on your reply above is that stick coils will fire using lower input voltage ie they'll work in series for a 4 cyl using a 12v input but effectively only getting 6v each . . . . . so maybe there is an issue in the coil feed line? Whatever if the bike is working!
Oil cooled 6 ?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
LOL's - understatement of the year - so far! One common thread with all these conversions - press together cranks for good reason!