Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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I don't believe so or everyone would be doing it! If the WP cranks are cheap enough, would it be worth buying one for a look-see? A 1mm stroke increase shouldn't be a drama - its the +4 and +5mm stroke increases that need clearance grinding to cases and rods.
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Not loads of power but at low speeds the voltage generated (I believe) is higher and declines as rpm's increase (less charge / generation time) so I think its the frequency that does the damage. Lets say the output is 1v at idle (800rpm) that's 0 - 1v x 13.3 times per second now do that at 9000rpm and the output is trying to do 0-1v, 150 times a second but due to the timeframe it may only get to 0.01v. Its why a poor ignition system tends to show up at high rpm's rather than low. As regarding the pick-up damage the engine 'tends' to spend proportionally greater time at lower rpm multiplied by years of use - they just break down eventually!
A lot of words to say - they are old and worn out
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Why does it matter? Will it make it more valuable or desirable if it wore a 'B' plate? Could have been built in '85 and sold in '86 so a 'C' plate would still be valid! DVLA aren't exactly big on minute details!
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On 10/19/2025 at 8:01 AM, ColinH said:
I’m also going to remake the merge collector. The angles are too much and will make the merge look messy
I was going to suggest that but didn't as I didn't want to come across as a 'know it all ku*t'
Or slice it down and add shallow bends on the connecting pipes?
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A BB cartridge will help with GS / GSX pish poor oil pressure though!
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Rush
in Air Cooled
Odd! All 3 phase alternators usually have 3 output wires - sure one hasn't broken off hence why not functioning?
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Richest needle setting is the LOWEST groove / closest to needle tip, Leanest is the Highest groove. Its not about how the needle moves when running, its where it starts in relation to the needle jet. The lowest groove puts it further out of the jet at rest allowing more fuel to pass hence richer.
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500ml is about 12.5% of total capacity so not a bit, it's a lot and could definitely be responsible! At or a bit low is good, over isn't.
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13 hours ago, Duckndive said:
the area is similar but Busa block has no liners it a Plated bore in block ..
so no conflicting expansion rates "think"
That makes sense! Its interesting point though as Sean has Project Pisstake out at 1600cc - obviously with some stroke increase, but maybe some bore as well, so I wonder if he re-linered as replating Nikaseal gets real expensive!
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On 10/2/2025 at 5:05 AM, 94RF1146 said:
Good info here around 5 mins in....
Extreme for sure whilst talking about cars! Two things occur to me - oxygen disassociation from water in the cylinder seems unlikely at those cylinder temps and peak cylinder pressures even if boost is 100+lbs. And your boost isn't anywhere near those levels. I've seen 'similar damage' through excessive Nitrous use without required addition of fuel - eaten gaskets, eaten bronze skulled chambers and torched liners but not to that extent, and rarely in a turbo engine.
I admit that I know not a lot about RF900 engines, so how does this area compare to Busa cylinders as I know they have been tested to well in excess of 60lbs of boost without drama's?
Interesting subject though - would other barrels fit or are these a unique pattern?
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Marmite pieces as they may quieten the rattle down, but if not fitted, the 'rattle' is not actually noticeable IMO! I tend to leave them out, just purely for ease of assembly and cleaning (less chance of trapping dust and debris around the sliding bits) I guess their use 'should' stop excessive wear on the retention pin due to the unrestrained movement but i've never noticed this and fuck it - the pins are cheap enough to replace if required!
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I may be wrong but I don't think a dry block will necessarily cure 'that' problem. I believe that gasket burnt through, and the minimal cylinder walls followed - definitely looks flame cut. There just isn't the real estate for a gasket to get a good seal. I think there is also something awry with the tune as losing a gasket between cylinders is fairly common but then to torch on down takes some serious cutting power!
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Seen a Harris frame for a T sell at the Worship show today brand new last one made.
And you didn't buy it?
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Chris Appleby, Dave Branch or Ray Debben off the top of my head.
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On 3/1/2025 at 10:49 AM, Poldark said:
Before we answer your question, introduce yourself. In the past there have been too many times someone shows up, ask a question, a member takes the time to answer, and we never hear from that person again. Also, read the forum rules.
I guessing they got 'ejected' in the great purge! Didn't contribute nuffin' so won't be missed!
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Was just going to say that - RC spindle as well so normally a 5.5" wheel & 180 tyre . . . . so need to find a 8" wide rim with an RC pattern mount - that won't be common!
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Google usually helps! - http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm and in metric terms its slightly over 2.5mm (2.53mm to be exact)
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100km's / hr in 6th gear is (60mph for normal people
) still on the needle and if you haven't set the accelerator pump up, going WOT will cause a huge bog! You can't ride these carbs like CV types, you can't expect the carb to deal with WOT at low revs - the accel pump will help but requires setting up for correct fuel delivery.
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51 minutes ago, bluedog59 said:
Or you shift the engine to one side.
Virtually impossible with perimeter frame! Mating those two arms looks to be a nightmare & seriously prone to failure and that's without considering the outboard sprocket arrangement!
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Its hard for most people to understand that a low'ish powered bike with a REALLY sorted chassis & clutch will generally leave quicker and get out of the hole harder, far better than a high HP with an average chassis and can win with an easier ride!
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Some pictures of what you bought and front of engine will help as there are a few different solutions depending on what you've got!
Basically you have to fit the cooler (the radiator bit) under the headstock and positioned not to restrict the forks from hitting on max lock both ways. Cooler may be mounted fittings up or fittings down - personal choice but 'up' can get a bit more involved! If 'down' use straight or angled fittings to avoid headers and get down to oil filter level. If its a true GS1150 there should be oil cooler ports already - remove existing fittings and use either screw in adaptors or banjo's to terminate ends of braided hose. Its not rocket science, just takes some thinking and pondering about!
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9 hours ago, Duckndive said:
OK try again how was the 1340 done then ?
Where the F*** is the popcorn smiley ?
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If radically different then carb jetting is obvious choice but often it's a fools errand as air flow, head flow efficiencies, spark timing & strength and engine cooling all will have an effect on exh. temps.
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Fractionally richer idles - Idle mix screws not turned out so far
Head cooler
in Oil Cooled
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No it doesn't - Road + stone, sticks to tyre, flys off & hits radiator, fender (mudguard for normal people) along for the ride . . . . . fender is too late to the party!