Gixer1460
-
Posts
5,881 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Gixer1460
-
-
9 hours ago, Duckndive said:
And the spacer plate suggests its had a lock up on it at some point as well
Pressure plate shows no signs - also no buttons fitted!
-
Would guess at early 1100 slabby but don't recognise inside of pressure plate! I'm guessing it's a hydraulic operation?
-
I don't disagree with the possible diagnosis but is there really water behind that location - would be an absolute bitch to cast / get the mould sand out ! I guess a sheet of plexiglass, clamped down, air and soapy water test will prove or eliminate, cracks in that position (between valves and valves - plug hole) not uncommon in GSX or GSXR oil cooled which do have coolant jets on the chamber and generally have no ill effects ?
-
11 hours ago, Supa said:
Interesting, If it stays still its usually referred to as STATIC Reciprocating means it moves, yes frnt wheel but the plates are stationary so in my dictionary thats static.
Static as they are fixed to something but not fixed in 'space' as the fork leg moves with the wheel due to road imperfections. I thought this was primarily a sprung / unsprung weight question and removing those clunky old valve bodies should definately affect the way the wheel / lower leg moves!
At the end of the day, I would defy anyone to be able to tell the actual difference in handling or suspension reaction if I placed / or removed 20 or 30 grams somewhere on a bikes suspension in a 'before and after' type test! Maybe a MotoGP level rider might but anyone else Nah!
-
Cutter refers to part of the fitting that literally cuts into the face cut end of the rubber inner hose. The braid is only there for protection. You could use plain rubber hose but normal fittings won't work with it as it usually relies on push on barbed or crimped on fittings. No one would use PTFE linered hose @ -10 size due to cost & meltage due to heat with cooler use! Look at 'Think Automotives website for info on all things hose related !
-
1
-
-
As said, wrap SS hose with masking or insulation tape where you cut, don't forget to fit the fitting 'nut' before cutting, don't cut SS braid back - the fitting is designed to capture. cutter fittings are good with rubber as forms a secondary seal, dont use nylon covered especially near exhaust. I used dash 10 but found it better to run ouside of pipes 1 & 4 as between was too close IMO.! Pic's shown turbo but was NA before and equally tight!
Oh and cooler fittings at bottom are fine - cooler will NOR drain!
-
2
-
-
Its not a 'weekend type' swap! There is a huge stroke difference between GSX and GSXR in regard to barrel hts. There are lube and oil drainage issues. The gasket land areas around cam chain tunnels are different, minimal and missing in certain areas. You loose oil cooling facility and a GSXR isn't cool (rather hot actually) without it! For racing it works but for road bike - NAH! too impractical IMO (and I did it!)
-
If you don't want peoples thoughts - don't ask for them!
-
Sorry to say this but you bought a box / boxes of parts, assembled them and trusted they would work? Did you not question why everything was in boxes? I hope you paid very little money cos I think you got burnt! And yes, water will find a way into cylinders at idle and even not running - warped head / block, porous or cracked head / cylinders or multitude of other ways!
-
Leaking / ruptured diaphragm in tap and probably a leaky float valve in the leaky carb! A working tap only needs the one vac source that the factory fitted!
-
Answers to above - DJ's are a carb airflow correction device primarily to suit increased airflow due to free flow exhausts and air filters, so will work just as well with a turbo - its only pushing more air after all !
Foam filters are cheaper and easier to squeeze into tight spaces. I like, and have used many times, K & N's when possible. Never had reason not to doubt their claims when correctly used and serviced. Wouldn't use foam without oiling them which can get a bit messy. Without changing for comparison I have a 'tiny' K&N on my turbo inlet and breathed well enough for v. high HP numbers.
-
Why bother with tickover / idle speed? Engine isn't under any load so needs negligible pressure hence why a 'reasonable' working engine speed is quoted!
-
1 hour ago, bunk said:
I'll throw out my idea. Dial in the bad threads, bore them out, press a slug of alum in, pin it (aluminum pin) and remachine threads.
Anyone done this?
No reason it shouldn't work although careful pressing slug in, that you don't spread the cap! Alternatively clamp cap to old cam to hold round, weld in old hole after boring to clean metal, face, bore and tap - many ways to skin a cat!
-
Nice piece but with some drawbacks (maybe) Does cost include the cap machining? Obvs you'd have to post your cap over to them so extra cost plus what happens if it doesn't arrive? Thickness of plate -4mm? will reduce cam cap bolt bite into head not massive but a hamfisted gorilla could strip those threads as well and ok if being done during a rebuild but post out and 14 day turn around and post back isn't a quick service for an 'in-use' bike. It is a solution but . . . . .
-
1
-
-
Ok - scratch my first thoughts if it has run. Have you tried reverting to std coils as that seems to be the only thing that has changed? Driving COP's with older CDI boxes is a lottery IMO - their low resistance could have fried the 2/3 outputs - speculating here! Can't see ign. sw. being problem if half of system works and other half doesn't . . . . . it either gets power or doesn't.
-
1
-
-
Is the CDI a matching part for a single pick-up plate? Its a wild guess if 1/4 sparking but 2/3 are not - obviously if the CDI is expecting two signals 180 degrees apart - its not going to work correctly.
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Why not use 12.9 bolts?
QuoteARP2000 bolts are significantly stronger than Grade 12.9 bolts, designed specifically for high-performance engine applications where extreme stress is present, while Grade 12.9 bolts are considered high-strength fasteners suitable for most heavy-duty industrial applications, but not as strong as ARP2000 in terms of tensile strength and clamp load capacity; essentially, ARP2000 bolts are considered the "top tier" when it comes to fastener strength for high-performance engines.
Simple answer!
-
2
-
-
I think - its not so much the rods, its the bolts - some sellers say they are ARP2k bolts but they normally cost what the rods do, so draw your own conclusions about that! If you did swap in some 'real' ARP bolts, the overall cost would still be about 1/2 the cost of Carrillo's !
-
On 11/22/2024 at 7:29 AM, rerb said:
extending and bracing a spare swingarm 6 inches over,
Just viewing this again as refresh - the above is the last thing a LSR bike needs. LSR bikes use std length arms for high speed traction - long arms only benefit initial launch phase with short gearing - LSR has so much longer gearing that accel isn't so brutal.
-
1
-
-
Having bought several Robinson gear clusters for racing use - they ain't cheap and these were for GSX's so plenty of demand = cheaper to make.
A one off set of paired gears for a 'out of date' niche engine with no economic value for sizable production run . . . . . . . $$$ think of a phone number and add a zero!
-
Unfortunately a lot of rad places won't touch oil coolers as its virtually impossible to get rid of the oil inside that will contaminate any weld. Is it aftermarket curved type or OEM ? Replacement may be the only option?
-
3 hours ago, peter1127 said:
That'll be no good - OP is an 'merican - they still use feet and pounds for temp measurements!
-
7 hours ago, dupersunc said:
-6 into -8 works fine. AN-6 is 3/8" bore.
Not according to here? - AN6 is 3/8 external over the threads (from link above).
AN-hose end inner diameter
An approximate internal dimension of AN hose ends is presented here. Note that the internal dimensions of hose ends and fittings may differ depending on the type, material manufacturer, etc. Therefore, these internal measurements should only be used as guidelines.
AN4 = ~3,7mm
AN6 = ~6,0mm
AN8 = ~8,6mm
AN10 = ~11,1mm
AN12 = ~14,3mm
AN16 = ~19mm
AN20 = ~25mm -
59 minutes ago, rerb said:
Once I get my crank back and measured after the polishing/mag, I think I'd like to run ever so slightly more oiling clearance than std on the big ends and run 15w 50. Are oem shells considered the best, or is there a trustworthy alternative for these engines? My oil pressure was very good before, 100+ psi on cold starts and around 40 at warm idle, 80 at cruise. Although my sensor was at the banjos for the oil cooler so I'm not sure if that's the same circuit as the engine oil or if the oil to the cooler follows a different path.
Do these oil pumps wear out? Mines at 70k miles and I have a 45k mile one I can put in if pumps are known to weaken over time. Aside from that, the Earls 19 row oil cooler does an amazing job at keeping the temps down so I'm not too worried about cooling capacity, just maintaining good pressure on long stints of WOT.
#1 - I'd only run bigger clearances on a race engine that gets exemplary maintenance.
#2 - You are only likely to find OEM shell bearings - these aren't like Ford or Chevy's that have loads of aftermarket choices!
#3 - Sensor on the oil cooler line will be the low pressure / high volume circuit - 30 - 40 psi is about as high as it gets. Engine bearing oil pressure is usually taken from main gallery and can be 60psi + when hot.
#4 - Anything can wear out due to wear / debris / poor maintenance etc. These pumps are usually good - i've never heard of one being replaced for anything other than damage. If the 45k mile pump is good, then newer trumps older!
#5 - I used a 19 row / std width Mocal cooler on my Kawazuki which coped ok but would get bloody hot on a hot UK day, after multiple 1/4 miles or caught in stop / start traffic. Don't know what actual temps were - just too hot to touch measurement!
-
1
-
GSX750 ET 1982
in Air Cooled
Posted
Cut the blocks off and crimp on some decent Bullets and insulated sleeves!