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Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. 1 hour ago, Spelli said:

    Damping the bars is an interesting idea.

    What else would do the trick?

    Anything that increases the bars' mass and is a 'loose' substance - Sand, lead or steel shot, Mercury ! (although I wouldn't recommend that LOL) Heavy bar end plugs often used on 'naturally' vibey bikes - odd cylinders or Vee configurations, only problem with them is increased width for squeezing through gaps !

  2. 11 hours ago, Pbc_18 said:

    I talked to the guys from Rick Electric about a reg/rec they don't make on for the bike. Due to the fact they run an alternator. 

    Strange thing for a 'specialist' to say, seeing as virtually EVERY bike for the last 40+ years uses an Alternator! Maybe they meant - its integrated on Oil Cooled bike units? Even with these doing the 'Charging Mod' is sensible to get rock solid output that battery will appreciate!

  3. Its not the High CR pistons themselves, its the inevitable ring blow by that happens with them - increased cylinder pressures = blow-by and turbo's are even worse! Having crankcase ventilation is a must and more is generally better, for example my 1186cc GSXR turbo had a -10 hose from centre of clutch cover, a -10 hose from cam cover, -8 hose from oil filler fitting and another -8 hose from the cam cover breather tower. Big ones to bespoke vented catch tank and little ones to open topped bottle for easy / quick drainage. The catch tank is the thing behind the side cover - 2No. inlets at bottom, 2No. outlets via filters at top.




    Oil Breather + Catch Tank.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. 19 minutes ago, Jonny said:

    Does that include EFEs? I'm just using the standard Suzuki one with my Lithium battery.


    Tempting fate as they aren't the most reliable of devices - charging queries every year prove this!

    • Like 1
  5. Point to mention - If the JDM loom doesn't have relays for the lamps, it would be sensible to assume the bulbs will be low wattage 35/35w types . . . . and in that diagram above, white would connect to white/red and yellow would connect to red/white (or is it red/yellow?) Switch should be capable of handling 2x 35w lamps at a time. Seems a bit foolhardy to wire relay feeds without a fuse, and in-line with alternator output so could get 14.5+v !

  6. Its a 24 yr old bike so some problems are to be expected! What is the mileage and is it verified? How much do you trust the seller not to screw you over? Has it got or do you know of any service history? A through service with a 'new to you' bike is never a bad idea, so at least you know, it 'should be' running right!

    P1 - is oil level correct and is oil viscosity correct? Not unknown to over fill an engine with thicker oil to cover up a mechanically noisy one or noisy gearbox / clutch! Thicker oil won't help easy starting. Starter motor could be getting lazy / worn brushes - fairly easy work to clean or check.

    P2 - Idle rpm? Is it around 11-1200 rpm? Too low and the gear engagement lurch is magnified. Are carbs working correctly - idle stalls could be symptomatic!

    P3 - Clutch issues are 'usually' non std. fibre plates, incorrect oil (usually a fully synthetic but not always) warped steel plates, notchy hub / basket splines, incorrect adjustment through ignorance or to cover up a fault.

  7. 12 hours ago, Tre said:

    So, what have we learned from this fiasco??

    Don't use plugs, not designed for the engine! Just because they fit, doesn't mean they will work correctly!

    Iridium plugs are designed for and suited to, fuel injected lean burn engines. In a carb'd engine they never run lean enough to burn off contaminates and fail too easily. Their use in turbo'd applications is moody also - due to the heat and cylinder pressures the Iridium tip can glow and lead to pre-ignition and detonation with all the good stuff that usually produces

    • Like 3
  8. Never done it but it shouldn't be a load of work and provided you are careful, should be pain free - 4 screws to hold body onto top / bottom rack bars and a fuel connection which should have a o ring in it to seal. How the spring is retained to be investigated prior I think! + undo slide lifting mechanism under top cover :tu

  9. On 6/1/2024 at 5:44 PM, symona1 said:

     I know there's a 3 pin diode up by the battery on the left as you're sitting on the bike.

    That thing is a PITA and really only there as interlock safety feature for side stand / clutch / in gear / starting. It got binned from mine!

    On 6/2/2024 at 1:24 PM, symona1 said:

    Okay, went out this morning and disconnected the ignition switch at the green block. Set my meter to 200 ohms and probed the red ingnition wire with my positive and negative to the orange wire. Turned on the key and I get a fluctuating reading that can go anywhere from 2.8 ohms up to over 50 ohms as i move the wires beneath the ignition barrel.

    That sound more like a dodgy / broken wire in the loom making intermittent / high resistance connection! Not unheard of due to all the twisting it does!

    3 hours ago, symona1 said:

    Just for anyone who may be following this, no diode in the ignition as I took it into work to strip out the security bolts and strip it down.

    Changed the coils for good known working second hand originals and still no spark.

    Surely it now has to be the ignitor/CDI.

    I thought it was only the Blandits that had a 100ohm RESISTOR in the Ign. Switch - I could be wrong though!

  10. As I assume the 1100 was a 'bigger bored' 1000 to gain its capacity and not stroked, then again I assume that the cylinder height will be the same, therefore no reason that the exhaust won't fit either engine equally well. Given the 1000's relative rarity, the ex. manufacturer may not have had an example to test fit so their reply may be guarded or with reservations?

    • Like 1
  11. 3 points - quite big injectors for engine size & state of tune - my 1460 used 8x205cc for 370hp. 2nd if the fuel filter is capable of disassembly I'd say it's not suited for efi as they should filter in 5-10 micron range and normally not serviceable. 3rd - I use std JR9B's in above bike but have used JR10C's with nitrous.

    • Like 2
  12. I keep forgetting this is a damn 4 wheeler! From pics I guess some space could be generated for better manifold AND turbo placement if the engine was rotated backwards towards the intake (which would rotate down). Ltwt. weight is good but not at the expense of a rigid chassis - i'm not seeing much triangulation going on and the chassis rails look 'skinny' ie. not much depth to them? When you look at bike installs, they are, and have to be compact, to avoid frame down tubes and a moving front wheel and i'd say most would fit in a slightly enlarged space happily. You probably have more space than you realise with a bit of re-jigging!

    If you are aiming for 500hp/tonne/1000kg that translates to about 500kg @ 250hp, all up weight which is bloody light for anything with 4 wheels, suspension, seats & bodywork!

    Some examples of compact pipework - you don't have to follow them but good inspiration - the NLR example is a very good, free flowing manifold that helps a Busa engine to over 500hp from 1300cc! The vee band flange is for wastegate and best placed for control.



    NLR pipe1.jpg

    NLR pipe3.jpg


    • Like 2
  13. Why tack the spigots - they aren't going to ever be anywhere other than the end of the pipe so fully weld them, then tackle welding pipes to collector - at least the spigots & runners can be bolted in to head, tight, to prevent excessive movement. Yes, pipe can move when finish welding but tacks are unlikely to kink out of place. Once all tacked up and held into head and into turbo (which should be well constrained) the easily accessible joints can be finished TIG'd to make rigid manifold, then removed from fixture to finish welding the remainder not welded first time!

    You are aware the pipework plan chosen isn't going to perform the best?  Flows are conflicted and the 90 deg turn into the Vee band clamp section isn't good. I'm all for DIY turbo builds but bad design leads to poor performance and disappointment ! Just saying!

    • Like 2
  14. 10 hours ago, Isleoman said:

    Not just the US! Although there might be a Keihin part supplier in Europe / UK, i'm not aware of them so I always refer back to Sudco for these parts, mostly with good results! I guess being in Cali doesn't help with that state's hatred of anything with an IC engine - lets hope someone else wants to buy the business!

  15. Its not too small, its just that your aging body isn't as flexible and adaptable as 20yr old you!

    As a 20yr old, you would have put up with ridiculous riding styles and folded your body into unimaginable positions to ride a 'Frame Kitted' bike!

    Getting old sucks! :(

    • Like 1
  16. 43 minutes ago, Duckndive said:


    That's Nice, very nice! Must be easy having zillions of Lectron carbs cluttering up the workshop ready for cannibalization :pimp:

    33 minutes ago, imago said:

    Many ways of doing it, I'm aiming for it not being noticeable. 

    I've set the plug lower in the slide bore and centralised. So the cap will sit on and I can route the wires and pipe through the inboard side of the carb body out of sight.


    Interesting, but seems a lot of aggro for not much benefit? Surprised if you can get a rail and injector fuel connection inside cap! The spray pattern is going to suffer I think? But I'll keep watching :tu

  17. Of the 'normal' OC engines - GSXR, GSF etc. they have a two part pump, one does the pressurised lubrication system, the other does the cooling circuit. I think the broad range quoted covers both sides as generally they pump multiple gallons of oil per minute such that probably 50% is bled off straight back to the sump via relief valves - the HP side will hit 100psi when cold whilst the cooling side doesn't have much pressure but relies on flow and contact time to carry heat away. Hence my thinking that multiple rads adds resistance to flow which could result in worst cooling but increased capacity.

    The OC's have fixed gearing unlike the AC bikes - non adjustable - AC variants done mainly for a boost in pressure - 10-12psi std, upto 20-30psi when re-geared.

    A dry sump system has lots of advantages - massive (comparitively speaking) oil capacity, no oil surge / sloshing in a 4 wheel application, simple pump re-gearing to slow or speed up delivery / pressure, cooling circuit for oil tank can be independent of engine and taken to extremes, the engine can be mounted lower in chassis to improve CoG and handling due to shallow sump!

    Its always an unknown with engine modification - will it hurt the engine, will it reduce reliability? Sometimes 'over kill' can work against the common good!

    • Like 2
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