Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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All depends on what you are trying to find - combustion chamber volume to work out compression or pure in-head chamber volume to work out gas flowing effects on CR.
The former is generally acknowledged as 26cc so I bet you'll find the piston domes will measure out at about 2cc which of course gets deducted from the head volume
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Engine is currently stripped down completely ready to be prepped, painted and rebuilt. What's the best way to remove all old paint? I've been steered away from any sort of blasting as I'll never get shot of all the grit which could cause major problems during running. Engine is a 750 from a slabby.
Does anyone have any experience and what do they think is best.
Thanks
Its bastard stuff to remove which is usually a good thing! - chemical dipping probably the best way + it'll clean out a lot of the oil galleries especially if 'hot tanked' at an engine builders afterwards!
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Probably not much as the Oil Boilers are a tad bigger - more manly shall we say and real men only like manly things ! LOL !
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Ordinarily I'd say add relays but my 1100M comes from the factory without and no one has ever though that should have had relays!
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So, it's very possible, when iven it will fit that could be leaks. All right then. No chance welding. Looks like one option left. Thanks for reply.
Why no chance of welding - stick up a piccy of the damage......pretty much 'anything' can be fixed with weld and a good welder!
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Busa rods shouldn't be a problem at that power but pistons won't like it - I wouldn't trust them as they fail in Busa's @ sub 300hp and that is with proper ECU engine management! With carbs and a Dyna it'd be risky - A dyna 2000 won't give any retard 'curve' - it just drops a set figure from whatever the programmed advance curve is at that point.
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Same place yours does..............................just gets a bit toasty if you try and tuck in and forget! Its a condition called Oldskool Turbo knee - EVERYONE does it once!
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Bud contacted Harris to check original build spec and quite frankly they couldn't be fucked to give / find out any info! Not that impressed with this response......."Sorry M8 no info on that frame number" with no great investigation. I'm sure if he wanted to buy some spares they'd be a bit more accommodating!
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Hmmmm! not without serious engine management (fuel and more importantly ignition) and charge cooling cos that boost is certainly getting to the limits of even 98 octane pump fuel without intercooling / charge cooling IMO. Do you want approx 250-280hp in a Bandit......numbers are nice - practicality is sometimes better!
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Check chain tension when two up.......probably too tight! You need some slack to allow the gears and shafts to re-align a bit!......well that's my theory anyway!
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I believe Guy Martin's Turbo GSXR was a water boiler frame before Martek made the former fit the latter!
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fine. torques do adaptor.
Please note that these above are not the correct adaptors for dash 10 / AN10 fittings! Those below would be correct.
http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/10-AN10-10-M16x1-5-Metric-Adapter-Black-/160464502794?hash=item255c6e000a
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IMO Dash 8 / AN8 is ok for supplementary coolers / head coolers etc but if tuning the motor, a step up to Dash 10 hose and fittings / 5/8" inlets on cooler allows better flow with reduced pressure loss. Better flow allows more heated oil to be cooled - I used a 19 row and it coped well with turbo power but didn't like sitting still - traffic wasn't its friend!
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Not the same but similar - I put a GSXR1100 in my Z1000J frame (nice big hole to fill!), I started with the bottom mount. Threw the engine in the cradle and spaced it up so the bottom engine holes were central to the bottom frame mount holes to create a nice triangular plate approx 35-50mm tall. Once that was fixed, it was cardboard cutting time to create front and rear plates. Luckily on the Zed frame one of the kwak rear mounts was close the the GSXR engine holes and just needed a little fettling. As the frame got monoshocked at the same time, the shock lower linkage pivots were fabricated on to a plate with bottom engine mounts and work / mount in conjunction with the stock frame mounts. This resulted in slightly longer ex. headers and the sprocket not being hugely distant from the swingarm pivot. As the exhaust was a one off bespoke for the bike, that didn't cause a problem and the sprocket location never caused much issue this chain tension - tighten or slackening!
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Nowt wrong with GSXR rods - smack any rod into valves and they will more than likely bend! Not sure busa rods will suit the application. You want longevity - ditch the busa pistons and get some correct dished turbo pistons with some meat in the crown and ring lands deeper than a gnats nadger! They may be heavier but its a turbo not a revin' 2 smoke!
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Oh for fucks sake - its got water in it so as far as i'm concerned or care its an SRAD! - generic term - who gives a shit!
Proper engines have oil on the inside and water stays outside - them I know!
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Another one - ugly side!
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only have a few GSXR/GSF engines kicking around - that´s too new for this frame me thinks.
My GS1000S will keep it´s engine
Oil boilers are old skool enough and think of the weight benefit! A m8 has just picked up a Mag F1 with a 750 SRAD conversion - needs a fairing though!
Got some more piccies but the uploader size restriction is flexing its muscle!
Bike seems to have had a 'interesting past' and certain details need a bit of looking at - 1 & 4 carb tops rubbing through on the frame, nasty foam filters fit for the bin, electrics are a bit moody and those PC fans aren't gonna last long in our 'sunny' climate! Upsides - polished ally tank, 916 tail piece in carbon but deffo needs a fairing to hide the plumbing............the drag bars will be making a swift exit also I suspect. I think M8 would like to sling a GS1000 lump at it but looking at the cradle I can't figure how it would fit in there!
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Depending on the age of the cable, oiling it might be the wrong way to go? Modern cables have the ptfe liners and oiling the cable causes it to swell and the cable then sticks. That's what I was told once anyway, by a mechanic friend.
Well tell your mechanic he's wrong! PTFE is a pretty inert material and is actually used in hydraulic and fuel systems - both oil based - with no ill effects!
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I can't recommend anything made be EBC! Their Green brake pads used to be good then they changed the mixture to become FVQ! The clutches just don't seem to perform - lots of racers on a budget try them, burn up a couple of sets and revert to stock so not exactly saving money!
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"but what we're finding is that as the springs are growing in diameter due to compression, they are eating up through the chamfer on the backing plate and threatening to escape".
Odd / strange comment as the springs shouldn't change diameter - they compress on to themselves then coil bind with no more movement - but there shouldn't be that much movement ie. spring should be under compression when fitted static!
Couple of items to check - the rivets are different between the GS1100 and the GS1150 - 0.9mm difference in dia..... could you be using the wrong ones? Clutch hub nut is made of cheese (relatively speaking) and can distort allowing the hub to wobble, although how this loosens the springs is anyone's guess! If you are using clutchless changes then there shouldn't be much shock loading to deal with - how about throwing the springs away and use alloy dowels instead of in the cavites?
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With 5 bolts its not an oil boiler clutch - they are all 4 bolt to my knowledge - odd one!
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Sorry?.......what the hell are you doing to your clutches to destroy billet backplates in 8 hours? I've seen springs loosen after a season or so of drag racing with Pro Mod spec engines and big slicks but never lost a back plate!
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Just out of interest - what is the supposed advantage of dry over wet?
Only asking as when I was clutch crew on Kev's FB - those motors had restricted oil supply mod for the gearbox and so the clutch got less oil also, The clutch was a slider type and I always installed the plates dry and they came out dry unless they were toasted or soaked - either resultant from a bad start. Didn't seem to wear badly either so maybe a dry clutch inside a 'wet' case is possible with a GSX - can't comment on life though - ours came out after every 1/4 mile!
Crack caseing
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Hmmm its a tricky one but not impossible. Hardest bit is avoiding blocking that oil? drilling at the bottom! I think i'd turn up a stainless, loose fitting plug to fit the smooth section to provide backing to build up the outer weld. You may have to grind out the threaded section and built it back with weld then face, drill and re-tap the treads?