Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Back in the day Racer tip - fill it full of silicone!
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(I have the malpassi pressure regulator with 1 in and 2 out with drain and pressure check pipe)
Puzzled! - post a picture of the regulator as they don't normally have a drain or pressure checking pipe! Oh and your oil drain pump isn't a Facet but it does look like the type Fruitloops uses so should be adequate (more like a screen wash pump to be honest! LOL)
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I don't profess to be an expert on these but weren't Kat engines silver stock with plain chromed cam caps? Also 24 bolt cam cover = early motor then 20 bolt then the 10 bolt EFE cover along with the big taper crank? Didn't know 'proper' kats available with that crank?
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Coils
in Oil Cooled
Pretty much most coils from all the manufacturers are 3 ohm if fitted with electronic ignition and don't have individual coils!
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From my experience, one way valves aren't reliable once flow stops then the turbo fills with oil and either leaks from inlet and / or exhaust or smokes massively on start up!
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Oil feed from main gallery below the Ignition cover - will require adapter and either hose fitting or banjo & bolt. Return - anywhere higher than running oil level if pumped return, usually top of clutch cover is practical - requires weld on fitting or tap and fit adapter for min. dash 8 hose! Don't use the oil filler / crankcase vent - you'll need that regardless!
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A push fit like that is airtight like a sausage in a hoola hoop when boosted air pressure is involved. Stock installation is at atmospheric pressure ie. zero - throw 1 psi at it and it'll leak like a sieve! You may get away with a liberal coating of RTV in the groove and around the rubber flanges but its got to resist any movement liable to split it putting / taking the carbs off and on.
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Nice - but how do you ensure they are sealed to the box once its all welded up?
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Well I stand corrected then - I guess 90+ ftlbs helps with 5 gears!
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Thought that was Blandit gearing? Pretty sure my 'K / L' gearing was 15/45 stock. But i've run 14 and 17 front and never thought I need another gear!
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Go with APE - tried and tested 000's of times - well trusted and regarded!
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I thought it was carbon fibre but not sure looking at the pic again.
Plastic resin holds the fibres together - it was a 'tongue in cheek' remark!
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Lesson - don't send a plastic pipe to do a metal mans job! LOL
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Stage 3 DJ is probably way to fat for just a can and filter! Changing plugs won't change mixture so revert to std and get the AFR sorted. Doesn't matter how free flowing the filters are, if its to fat to burn its too fat!
Internet tuning is never really successful - book a few hours on a dyno and get it right!
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If you are going to 'end feed', its best to taper down towards the last carb to keep the airflows a bit sensible - centre feed is an option cos a) it reduces that effect and b) you don't keep bashing your knee on it! Dunno about pitot size - 3/8 or 10mm max rings a bell? Air inlet - no smaller than turbo outlet - why strangle it? and larger only reduces pressure and gets re-strangled at the plenum. Gas speed helps pitot function IMO.
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LOL - don't fancy yours much!
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Hoe about putting a window in the cover?
Cheers SRR
Yeah that'd be good - looking at something not moving! LOL
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Just as well I havent bought it yet KM
The old Predator allowed me to push it a bit more before head wanted to leave shoulders (130+) now in its naked state the complete torso wants to leave (100+) Maybe I should just slow down (not) 
Renthal bars dont help much as they are a bit wider than stock but underarms stay fresh 
Ha Ha Ha! yer big Gurl! I didn't need a rev limiter on my old Kawazuki .......drag bars + turbo + no protection meant 155 was as fast as it would ever go before I got blown off the back - think 18 stone parachute!
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I thought 'No Nails' glue was more your style!
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I'm sort of puzzled by their quoted rwhp figures 226hp @ 0.4bar boost and 362hp @ 1.3bar !!! A N/A engine making 125hp (bloody good for a bandit) is only taking in an additional 40% air/fuel so should only make another 50hp so how is it possible? Likewise that same engine (which actually has to be de-compressed to cope) is taking 130% more air/fuel so potentially adds 150hp = 275hp ???
Even Busa engines decompressed a bit only hit close to 300 @ 1 bar boost - just saying the #'s don't stack up. I know what it takes to make 370hp and its considerably more than offered in those kits - just saying!
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Re Comp. Ratio see here........ http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/885-gsxr1300-pistions-and-750-dot-head/&page=1
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The motor getting built already has a barnett clutch. It's not a lockup clutch but it's something.
No its not and it will suffer for it. By the time you add enough spring weight to stop the slip you'd be hard pressed to pull in the lever! Nothing makes mid range torque like a turbo and that's exactly where the plates give up!
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Glad you found such an easy bolt on conversion - congrats
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Get Mk1 Busa pistons with 20mm pins as will fit blandit rods - the later mk2 ones have 18mm pins
As they are 81mm dia. the block will need boring. Bak in the day the best turbo ready pistons were 80mm MTC GSX1150 - perfect deck ht. and compression was right, and thy were strong! Not sure if anyone does a specific turbo piston off the shelf as they need a thick crown to machine a bowl into, flat tops are ok but don't burn as well as a bowl and decent squish at the edges!
Different types of Harris frames pics wanted
in Trick Frames
Posted
Oil boilers are old skool enough and think of the weight benefit! A m8 has just picked up a Mag F1 with a 750 SRAD conversion - needs a fairing though!