Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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There should be two holes either side behind the 'aerofoils' and the bolts fit from the wheel side through the fork brace into the fork stubs.
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1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Are we really kwibbling over 1cc? Whatever if its a big motor it'll either say 1127 or something else! LOL
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Unless you've changed the jetting it should run as stock! So as they've been apart, it leaves either something's still blocked, missing on reassembly or reassembled incorrectly! The pattern repair parts could be moody but just off idle, 3k is transition stage onto needle so not much in a kit to change that?
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Look on the barrels it'll say either 1127 or 1157 - saves taking shit apart?
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It'd fit, it may even run the engine but comparing the two together via google the ign. timing will be incorrect!
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Running it in the shed (also not good for your health) without any load on it will not give a good diagnosis especially if its not been run for a while. Rings could be gummed up, carboned up valve seats etc. all could give low compression readings - its going to need some abuse first before making terminal judgement
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Personally i've built two turbo bikes, one suck through, one blow through, one 210hp the other 370hp and both with internal gates but have been around numerous others as well. I see the benefits of external gates but i'd say they are of more benefit on really big output motors that need the ultimate in tight power control, ie. racing. An internal gate can be ported to flow better and more consistently but they are definitely the 'poor' relation - mind you I've seen some rubbish external gate installs / positioning, so it has to be considered as well.
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As in, it will be towards the top end of its (the turbo's) performance envelope where efficiency starts dropping off and so inlet charge heat increases due to increasing the relative boost to maintain the airflow. Most turbo installations never rev out like their N/A cousins - mine had a 10,500 hp peak as N/A but as a turbo, makes its peak at between 8,500 and 9,000 - they are fuckin' torque monsters. If that ickle 400 works ....... it'll feel like a well tuned 600 or average 750 at a guess! - and it won't rev itself to bits either!
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You may find a GT1544 or 48 more suited as a 12 could be on the limit which means inlet heat - not good in a carb application IMO!
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Pretty much correct - only vacuum from carbs to FPR should be to plenum as the carbs don't require reduced fuel pressure on over-run - just static pressure + boost pressure.
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Cor - haven't looked that shiny since................................................they were new! Look even better when the heat turns them GOLD!
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26 minutes ago, YoshiJohnny said:
are you using standard airbox or not?
Was going to be my question!
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14 hours ago, captain chaos said:
yes.
Yeah - just looked at the cam cover picture - what a ball ache!....................sorry pal unless it all works faultlessly - its a boat anchor!
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10 minutes ago, Blubber said:
bad kill switch connection ? - don't know this wiring diagram , so don't know if its possible... just thinking out loud
Unlikely as switch is single feed to both coils and CDI together ie kills everything together! Possible engine rotation could be stopping so rotor is close enough to pick-up so it will spark whenever turned on - unlikely but possible. I think there is more likely to be something hinky in the ign. module - substitution is usually the only way for diagnosis.
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Re : CDI - I would guess that the GSX750 will probably work ok - not exactly a screamer or power monster so may suit all depends on the ign pick up pattern - single or dual? As regard carbs a set of std 750 slide carbs could work if re spaced or is the cyl. head manifold weird as well to preclude that option? Who knows.............the carbs may be fine after a good ultrasonic bath - wouldn't take them apart as you're liable to rip a gasket or shred an o-ring then they are definitely FUBAR'd without spares!
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I believe all the GSX variants used electronic ignition - no points. Jeez - hope there's nothing wrong with the carbs as i've never even seen a set of those - pair of dual barrel / single diaphragm Mikuni's ? - spares are not gonna be common!
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1 hour ago, bruteforce said:
still considering EFi but not sure it will bring me more than a good set of carbs will.
With a turbo? it makes a considerable difference both tunability and engine response / flexibility.
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You may have to siamese the liners as the overbore will probably break through between 1-2 and 3-4? Then if they get bored to 81mm ! ! ! you could use Gen 2 Busa pistons which have 18mm pins? That'll be well oversquare.
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As they won't deliver to the UK (figure that out as they are only in Belgium!) then its unlikely anyone has used one in the UK! Can't see the point of an 'on the road' switchable ign. map, actually is - maybe running too much compression that needs good fuel and you can only buy crap? Personally i'd just avoid 'making progress' till I got decent fuel !
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Actual flames that are burning and not just from the bang is a rich condition but bangs on over-run points to a lean condition / exhaust air leak! Have you done the PAIR mod as that would cure one likely source, others would be poor joint sealing. just raising the needle isn't gonna help with a Cobra pipe - ideally a designed needle and a MJ swop will be required.
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yep classic Suzuki problem! If you don't want / can't get new parts, some engineering shops can undercut the worn dogs and slots - its a rebuild regardless!
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Does the tank actually sit down correctly without the carbs? Swop to flatslides may help as less 'bulky'?
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Pretty much every jap two tower coil will be 3.0 ohm so get any cheap replacements from a breaker - i'd pick H**da as they just don't fail ever! NGK plug caps are a good upgrade for an all-weather bike.
Went on the dyno and...
in Forced Induction
Posted
Not with that crank - would need a GSXR type and the matching clutch primary gear / hub