Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Probably 38mm Mikuni RS flatslides or 39mm FCR Keihins - unless theres a shedload of work done to the engine 40's or 41's would be wasted. If its dragracing / sprinting then 40mm Lectrons are an option.
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Ok - there is a pdf which is a bit grainy.........but has all the wire colour codes! and a jpeg that is better resolution but not all the wires! Enjoy!
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I'll try and scan my workshop manual later.......
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They are M8 size which are 13mm AF in most of the world but usually 12mm AF from Japan! When you've got them out, i'd recommend using M8 studs instead of bolts and copper or brass nuts. Three advantages, studs never have to come out and can corrode in peace, the nuts will strip first and cause no thread damage and its a damn sight easier hanging the exhaust / collets on studs whilst screwing a nut on than finding a threaded hole for a screw!
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If you haven't got a meter how do you know the battery is good? It could have started with a boost but a wankered battery won't take a charge and eventually the electrics will die. A couple of volts is enough to click a relay but 8 or 9v ain't gonna crank over. Invest a £10 and get a meter then you'll know.
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
the obvious answer is turbo it
Ah yes! - the sensible option!
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CV's really don't work that well with open mouths / trumpets / ram pipes - WOT maybe but everywhere else they just get confused! I'd say stick with the airbox and mod it with a K&N so good airflow and plenum which CV's prefer.
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yep - 1100 is 10,500 and 750 is 13,000 from memory although the std tacho's are usually a mile off so it was anyone's guess what they actually were!
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'wet sleeves' thats the phrase I was looking for ! LOL
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Got no experience of water cooled blocks but would have thought your best solution is to increase water 'jacket' around the liners prior to fitting them. That and decent water distribution rather than in one end and out the other!
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Used the Emtes version and got it from NLR in the States a good few years ago now. I think Stu at Warpspeed can do you one?
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You've never looked inside a GSXR engine have you! They do and were designed to run with oil - in. over and around them.....Oil is an insulator
and has no electrical effects on magnetic pick-ups...........NOT POINTS!
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Ask when the cam chain was last done - it'll be well stretched if original could be a useful bargaining point. If the oil's been changed regular the internals can be immaculate - saw the insides of a M8's 1100L with 65k and you could still see the barrel honing marks and bearings looked new but the cam chain was as slack as a slack thing!
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1 hour ago, Arttu said:
I'm using fully programmable ECU
Joking aside, for 0.5 bar and tight budget I would say that nothing is probably just fine. Or reduce static advance by a couple of degrees. Or drop compression a bit.
But if you want a bit more sophisticated solution the Ignitech products might be worth of checking. For example SPARKER TCIP4 seems to support MAP sensor and mapping ignition based on load and RPM. http://ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm
And it is quite much cheaper than Dyna 2000.
Agreed - there are a few 'no dizzy' solutions now that the old skool car guys are starting to use modern engines but with carbs. Dyna stuff served a purpose years back now newer and cheaper and cleverer stuff is available.
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When racing, my old 1186 suffered 40 degrees advance with 10psi thrown at it! Good fuel is everything - 4* / premium unleaded. @ 0.5 bar 4 degrees could be described as overkill even with pump unleaded IMO.
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Under the seat, between the frame rails with a R6 fan, switched on via oil temp switch.
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This is mine,,,,,,
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Yes thats the right kit - fairly universal across old Kawa's and Suzuki's!
The advance / retard curve thing is a bit agricultural - true you can develop your own advance curve but the retard activation is still a fixed number dropped on top of where ever the timing is at that point. The advance curve is actually 4 or 5 points so hardly a 'curve' Just MHO and I've had 4 of them so its a strange bias if I am!
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5 hours ago, Pedda said:
Racing is not only been done on a strip. Circuit races are also common, ya know? You do left turns in steep banking angles from time to time.
You'll appreciate avery additional inch of ground clearance in such situations 
Yes, you could go for a total loss iginition when racing average 20 - 25 mins, but esp. when you do endurance races, you want an external alternator.
Furthermore - just in case you do not race at all - an extended alternator looks cool.
We like cool trick looking bikes, don't we?
Ha! - This was the give away!....." its for drag racing not for street use
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And if it was circuit / endurance racing - the number of times those guys drop their ride, it wouldn't last long, hanging out in the breeze. Running off the sprocket is a plan but I guess it would need the gearing sorted to keep the alt. rpm high enough in top gear?
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Dyna 'S' or Dyna 2000? If the former you'll need to add the early GSX mechanical advancer and cover, if the latter - nothing its standalone, power, ground and connections to coils - thats it! Electricals for both is about the same.
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And if your racing - why are you worried about charging a battery! Its only 30 seconds of use - charge in pits between rounds or have two and swop / charge!
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or stop poncing around and bridge the starter soli with a big spanner!
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I think you could call my GSXR a bit extreme for power and that uses a M basket, coil spring conversion and a regular 4 arm single stage lock up - no slip whatsoever. Std spring converted clutch has get go with only 125hp and turbo torque.
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Email does work tha knows!
GSXR plenty oil pressure so a dash 3 or 4 is fine and without restrictor - just use BIG drain -10 or -12 better !
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Dynatek ignition
in Air Cooled
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The stock ignition on my GSX750ET WAS electronic! You still have the same amount of wires whatever you choose!