Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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If I had to look around, i'd seriously consider the MS3 Pro - does sequential everything, as clever as most out there, small / compact, is COMPLETELY waterproof and is competitively priced - perfect for bike application and the associated tuning / data analysis software isn't bad either.
Edit - Seller has revised waterproof to 'splashproof' but unit can be immersed in few inches of water for a few minutes - I read that as pretty waterproof in most cases of use!
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M8 - you've just given access to all your business quotes to everyone! Probably not a good move?
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10 hours ago, coombehouse said:
You could try using Engineers Blue. Its a blue dyed grease stuff. Put a very thin smear on the crank taper (thin as so you can barely see it) & then put the rotor on & turn it slightly. When you take the rotor off the contact point will not have any blue on it. You use the same stuff for checking valve seats after cutting. Get it from engineering supplies or Eblag.
Or Sharpies 'Magic Markers' / similar felt tip marker pens - work just the same. Who knew WH Smiths did engineering supplies!
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On 2/27/2016 at 8:54 PM, Goo'Roo said:
Aren't too many 36 theeth on a 50mm trigger? Is the pick up fast enough?
Funnily enough there are still 36 teeth on a 36 tooth wheel whether its 50mm or 500mm LOL!
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I second the grinding paste option - get both surfaces nice and uniform grey and matt finish. Then windy gun the crap out of the bolt. A more drastic solution is use diamond dust impregnated grease used by Ford to secure non keyed cam wheels to camshafts - the diamond dust locks them real tight!
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Never known a bearing supplier have white metal shell bearings - such a specialist item so good luck.
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The mechanical advance is usually foolproof - they either work or they don't! Check that first. Easier than swopping to a dyna 2000 just for the retard (which IMO doesn't work that well) is fit a switch in the ignition live feed so you can spin the motor over without ignition then once its spinning hit the fire switch! Usually easier to spin over if its not trying to spark as well!
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7 hours ago, vizman said:
drive for mechanical fuel injection
Back to the dark ages ! ! ! All it needs is a magneto and it can run at vintage events!
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Ooooooh! Pink Torpedo that sounds a bit rude! LOL
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VM33's
in Oil Cooled
DOH ! Yes brain fart time - Displacement halved true! I though we were talking VM29's not 33mm smoothbores? That was my point - whilst the 29's were fine on a 750 their airflow potential would be lacking on an 1100 unless they were bored out to 'say' 33mm where they would probably work better than a 34 or maybe a 36mm CV? Any slide carb will have a better airflow rating when compared to a comparable CV carb just because there is no butterfly & shaft blocking nearly 10% of the bore!
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If its an import from Uncle Sam, that'll explain it - they call everything Katana - aircooled, oil cooled and water cooled! They also didn't have the GSX as a range - early ones were GS1100's and later ones (our EF / EFE) were GS1150's to add to the confusion!
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I have no specific evidence of this but i'd say lobe centres of 108 - 110 degrees is probably optimal for N/A - figures nearer 103/104 degrees are more suited to turbo's with minimal overlap.
My draw through 1186 made 210hp @ 10psi and the 1460 was 370hp @ probably 20 odd psi ! I've never checked intake temps but would expect them to be well north of 100 deg C even with the intercooler!
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Why fit N/A gearing when you have loads of turbo torque to pull taller gearing (bonus is nicer ride not having to stir the box constantly!)
I used 17/45 on my Kawazuki and have 17/40 on the 1460.
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On 4/1/2016 at 10:34 AM, Boogieman said:
Timing retard? It delayed the advance of the timing in the first couple of gears to reduce the chance of wheelying.
It was nothing to do with wheeling - a manufacturer produces a bike like a Blandit that wheelies everywhere then fits a wire to electronically stop it? Yeah Right!
IT was an emissions thing - not fuel economy but noise / sound! Bikes had to be tested at a certain rpm and if you make the engine 'flat' in that range = Pass test!
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VM33's
in Oil Cooled
15 hours ago, canamant said:They'll go fine I'm sure. The tune up manual shows 3mm units on the 750 which can feed it at nearly 13000rpm. An 1100 at 10500 should be no problem.
750's had 29mm VM's as std - 0.75L @ 13,000 = 9750L / minute requirement.
1100 - 1.1L @ 10,500 = 11550L / minute requirement.
So an 1100 with std 29mm VM's would be desperately breathless!
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27 minutes ago, Big-Daddy said:
Is the 530 chain not smaler and shorter than a 630 ??
Yes the links are physically smaller so you'll have more of them but the gearing remains the same!
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15 hours ago, Big-Daddy said:
So spent the sunday on the wiring but Still not finish .but now the wether is geting better and I need to change the chain before it gets out on the road .There is a 630 on now but want a 530 or 520 but witch one is the best choice and what is nearest the 15/41 gearing ?
Without trying to sound smart - whatever size chain you use, if you use 15/41 sprockets nothing changes! Personally I'd prefer 530 but both will work - might pay more money for a 520 to get quality?
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3 hours ago, Venom said:
ok, and last question ( I think) .What is the differnece between TMR and RS carbs ? Just Yoshimura logo or something more ?
The TMR's are 'I believe' made in magnesium, have roller slides and are absolutely lush! Closer to Keihin FCR's than std Miki RS flatties but more expensive, desirable and rarer!
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I aim to please as I said to Jennifer Lawrence the other night!
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Shouldn't be a problem - weird place for a crack......usually through or beside a weld or has someone been to enthusiastic with a grinder?
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A cv of any type tolerates 'ham fisted' throttle application better than a slide carb. You can yank the throttle open wide but the slide will only lift as far or as fast as is required to keep air flow optimised to the fuel delivery metered by the jets which is dependent on air flow.
A flatslide can be yanked open, and at low speed will fall flat on its face as air speed rapidly drops, fuel flow reduces etc etc etc. They have accelerator pumps to squirt neat fuel down the throats to mitigate the transition but doesn't always work.
If you are respectful of the limitations, you could ride both and not know the difference until a spirited 'roll-on' then you'd know whats what!
Edit : Also don't you mean VM29's like from the 750's? They were good on a 750 but if stock i'd imagine a 1100 / 1170 etc would find them a bit wheezy. But bored out to 33mm and could work very well on that size motor for on road use. They don't have pumps that i'm aware of so the same caveats apply re throttle control but should be a torque'y motor but maybe breathless WOT?
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I didn't mean that - you are replacing the loom and the ignition with another loom and ignition that are potentially exactly the same! and IMO aftermarket isn't as good as OEM if kept stock as the timing isn't optimised - if the set up changes then its a different matter.
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The stock ignition on my GSX750ET WAS electronic! You still have the same amount of wires whatever you choose!
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Probably 38mm Mikuni RS flatslides or 39mm FCR Keihins - unless theres a shedload of work done to the engine 40's or 41's would be wasted. If its dragracing / sprinting then 40mm Lectrons are an option.
Turbo Spondon
in Forced Induction
Posted
That is BAD! But i'd have to add a fairing just to hide the coolers LOL!