Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Just out of interest - what is the supposed advantage of dry over wet?
Only asking as when I was clutch crew on Kev's FB - those motors had restricted oil supply mod for the gearbox and so the clutch got less oil also, The clutch was a slider type and I always installed the plates dry and they came out dry unless they were toasted or soaked - either resultant from a bad start. Didn't seem to wear badly either so maybe a dry clutch inside a 'wet' case is possible with a GSX - can't comment on life though - ours came out after every 1/4 mile!
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@Fula28 - i'd say a bit of valve bounce coupled with enthusiastic use of boost = partially spat collet locking a red hot valve part open which then got smacked by the piston! Could have been worse - if the collet came off entirely and valve slipped into the cylinder it'd be a whole lot messier!
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For probably 80% of users a vanilla flavour 2 stage will be plenty - only for drag racing where a total excess of power is the norm and infinite clutch control is everything will benefit from the sophisticated multi tunable set-ups. My big power road bike only needs a simple lock up on the road.
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It depends on whether the honing would take the bore diameter past the wear limit for std pistons and rings - they usually allow for a fair amount of wear but getting close to that limit usually means they slap and clonk around and want to be fixed ! Stock pistons = stock rings so Robinsons would be the choice!
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Nothing yet as he's undecided what to do with it.......looks a bit shabby round the edges at the moment!
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No - that's a lot of engineering to provide. Not sure if some of the factory 750RR's had dry clutches but also had factory resources for them to be made!
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Correct on both issues! Two destructive options - dremel out the rubbers to take the 40's or fit the M rubbers and the port out the head to suit.
Personally i'd go against the 40's as being a PITA to set up normally with increased compression all bets are off! Rather use 38's and suits everything!
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DOH !
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without sounding stupid (
) where did you get one from, local dealer or online site?Item #16 - needs back-ordering .........assuming you have an 1100 GSXR? - Quote OSS and you'll get an extra 10% discount
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The turbine blanket will certainly help as would ceramic coating the housing first then blanket on top - heat drives a turbo so it may help spool as well.
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@285hp you must be running 18-20lbs of boost? thats where your heat is coming from and dealing with it in a draw through will always pose problems!
Think of the inlet tract you have to deal with - carb with moderately low gas speed and not the best atomisation known, it then gets centrifuged through the turbo compressor whilst increasing its pressure to blow into the plenum where it has to fill the volume and also flow left or right, then do another 90 degree turn into the head inlets and the cylinders. Changing plenum cross section or volume by (say) double will reduce airspeed / pressure by a factor of 4! This volume needs to be filled and re-pressurised and worst of all, the drop in airspeed allows fuel drop out so the mixture goes lean then massively rich as the dropped fuel is re-introduced to the airstream as its speed picks up.
If you want bottom end torque improvements you need to spool the turbo faster or earlier whilst keeping the inlet tract cross section relatively constant. If this was a blow through, the bigger volume will have reduced consequence - big up pipes, big intercooler volumes and big plenums are just carrying plain / pressurised air, all regulated pretty much at the end of the inlet tract.
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I've got everything but the m/n basket.
Of which, I have for sale - make me an offer?
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Its the nature of the beast! Carb'd draw through,s are never pretty low down off boost - having a carb a mile away from the valves with gas having to follow a tortuous route to the cylinders doesn't help........add in low gas speed at low throttle openings = nasty. Volume in the plenum is what you don't need ! If you want low end either hop up the compression and use less boost overall or change the turbo to boost earlier which will also compromise the top numbers! You can't have it all!
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Why don't you just buy leaded fuel? Its freely available at Santa Pod - costs a bit but there again niche market items usually do!
Even if you could get hold of Tetraethyl lead, do you realise how really toxic that stuff is - methanol on the skin has got nothing on that stuff!
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Its not a clutch! It is a bolt on plate with weighted arms that apply pressure to the clutch pack using centrifugal force acting on the arms. You can still pull the clutch lever although it may be a bit heavier depending on the rear wheel speed. Other than racing, big bore torque monsters, turbos or using nitrous, anything else will never need or benefit from it - if they do, then they need a new set of fibres! LOL
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You can get good power out of 1186.
You can! Plus there's another over-bore when it goes 'pete tong'
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2mm higher when inverted or higher when right way up? If former that's correct, if latter then that's wrong as would be increasing fuel level in bowl. There should be movement - float must be able to fall away from the float valve or you won't get fuel in or the float buoyancy won't have enough closing pressure to stop fuel flow.
6mm pitot was a guesstimate - peeps have used 6, 8 and 10 with success - its not an exact science, try, try and try again!
ps. Fuel injection is sooooooo much easier in this regard! LOL
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Pretty sure someone on the old site used the 'cross port - single tube - twin ends' arrangement and found it un-satisfactory and so reverted to the 'normal' bent tube pitot. Probably didn't work as forcing air to make sharp turns loses momentum and pressure. I'd stick with tried and tested - likewise a main jet of say 300 is maybe a 1/4 or less area of a 6mm dia. pitot which is a normal size (or bigger) - that single pitot has to pressurise 4No. carb bowls - that's a lot of surface area!
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Plus its always higher gears where clutch slip usually manifests itself - you pulling higher gears won't help the situation. ie to go fast you need power and pulling taller gears from lower in the range is where the torque will induce the slip. It can be done using clutchless shifting but just needs a bit of wheel slip or a bump that jars the suspension / drivetrain and it could trigger slip. Although simple devices they are fit and more or less forget!
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33mm Mikuni smoothbores, original roundslide, perfect for gsx1100, fiddly to set up, but wonderful throttle response and also inlet port size of gsx is also 33mm giving a clean uncluttered pathway for the fuel mixture
Oh THOSE blacktops
.........Agreed - bit oldskool now and probably difficult to find S/H. Had a set a while ago, px'd them for £50 worth of goods from a trader. -
K - N are all identical.
And I have one for sale if you need one!
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Why do everyone not mention 33 Mikuni blacktops? They say there harder to tune but where the carb to use in there day. (keihins where rare then)
33 Blacktops? - RS33's? Sure your not referring to the 750's 29mm bored out?
Assuming the current CV's are 36mm - i'd keep to same dia with the slide carbs. You won't overcarb the engine, still retain good gas speed and so good torque with a little bonus up at the top end. Jetting wise start around 130MJ which should be safe but fat!
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Depends where you order from! If from Allens then if you ask, they'll usually supply a best guess but I think most places will just give you what they come with from the factory!
Not wishing to sway your judgement but ask your tuner which jets he stocks as Keihins / FCR's are a lot less common so less are played with so less liable to keep stocks!
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Depends if you are still running oil up the studs? If you are, then changing the seals / gaskets is recommended if the old ones have been used for a while - a re-used gasket is a false economy if it pisses out a mist of oil spoiling the build! If no oil up the studs then there's nothing much to leak but personally i'd still do it!
EFE Clutch
in Air Cooled
Posted
Sorry?.......what the hell are you doing to your clutches to destroy billet backplates in 8 hours? I've seen springs loosen after a season or so of drag racing with Pro Mod spec engines and big slicks but never lost a back plate!