Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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@Gixer1460 does the carb need to be a S&S shorty E?, i might be able to get my hands on a S&S super D. would that be ok or is it better to use the shorty E?
cheers
Maybe but they are a biggish sucker and not exactly sophisticated. Sort of one step down the evolutionary ladder from the 'E' models!
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if it has to run sequential ignition, a cam sensor is needed so the ECU knows which of the four cilinders is at compression stroke.
Exactly - the actual camshaft position isn't critical to spark or injection timing - just to indicate where in the cycle the engine is - its generally known as a sync sensor ie. it synchronises the ecu timing to, generally, cylinder #1.
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Recharge time doesn't make any difference if running wasted spark which most are ! It needs a cam sensor and an ecu that can run sequentially for any benefit.
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sorry if I'm being dumb but what one is this, do you mean the cam end blank hex plugs?
No - its the round one with the allen key center down below and in front of the timing cover as above! Its the main crank oil gallery so make sure your adapter don't leak!
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Dusty ..... Plank
Hey - the sleeper awakens! Sell him my old S&S Shorty E then he can make the old donkey live again!
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All depends on what pistons are in there - Wiseco, JE, Busa? - Once you know that i'd recommend Debben Performance - Ray and Steve know their stuff!
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Subtle difference - throttle body is a fuel injection part, carbs are carbs. Due to the restriction of the turbo the smaller bore carbs will draw better off boost and the turbo will pump air to make the real power.
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A M8 used a set of FCR41's on a 1216 gsxr/bandit and although set up perfectly / had good top end, he lost so much in the midrange he's now swopped back to RS36's and loves them for day 2 day riding and hooning around!
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Depends on what GT25 you select ! Personally I think a GT2560R would do it but not ideally suited - I'd prefer a GT2859R or 60R unless you want to run lots of boost (and therefore heat!) all the time?
Std. plastic topped CV36's will hold boost for a while but will eventually let go - swopping 'down' to tin topped 34mm CV's is usually bombproof.
Again its down to what boost you are running but usually a smallish EFI pump and good regulator is required with a fuel return to the tank - must work at 2psi ie. off boost upto 15-16psi @ 1bar or more?
Again, personally - an EFI system saves on engineering over a lot of these issues and releases more usable power through more accurate control of fuelling and timing!
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its not in my sig bud!. haven't done one yet....
Apologies - Tired!
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Jason - i'd change your sig M8 - its 1186 not 1216!
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That's the beauty of copper - its soft enough to tolerate a degree of block / head imperfection - as long as its annealed first!
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Lambda sensor placement is critical when using a dump pipe! When flow is low it will be fooled by atmospheric air so indicating lean condition.
I've got my ecu sensor at the collector pre turbo - against all the advise mind you but if the back pressure kills it after a few '000's miles its not the end of the world
to replace with a new one + its more accurate as direct from cylinders not with added turbo oil ! ! !
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Those mounts / rubbers are found on the GSXR type motors - never seen them removed from the cases before!
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MLS shouldnt have let go at that, what was the head torqued down to?
You can't clamp as tight with stock 'springy studs and nuts - Go and raid the stores Clive, you know APE makes sense!
And copper don't leak if its done right
....... 2 bar + and no leaks here.-
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I knew you wouldn't be able to leave it alone! I was working on a EFI intake with injectors mounted in it so I could use a Throttle body in place of the carb - new tech meets old tech meets vintage!
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Honestly 40's are too big for the 1100M / N and they are a bitch to set up. If you want to keep the torque monster feel of the GSX - go with 36mm CV's - 36mm RS flaties even better!
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Be ok Gixer, buells weigh 400kgs most of that's ditch pump motor lol, so gsxr is a feather weight by comparison!
I think you've got your KG's confused with your lb's - no way is a Buell 880lbs!
And at 440lbs its a bit lighter than a std GSXR - not a lot but you've added 10-15 kgs of turbo stuff!
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So?........................which bit gave up its life in pursuit of sub 10 seconds......valve, head gasket or piston?
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Its a brave (or foolish) man that rides a 200+hp turbo bike with a single front brake - which are you?
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Coils
in Oil Cooled
Thank you sir! - I aim to please!
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Whatever they are - i'd use Viton types to be fuel safe. Doesn't seem to be a Suzuki spare part but Allens List Mikuni O rings if you know the size and thickness?
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Even better Robinsons list them.......http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GS/GS750/B-DB 1977/gs750boilpump.htm
£61 and change - but they need to order so don't hold your breath! But OSS still gets discount - I believe 10%?
But of course you also need the corresponding clutch drive gear.......http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GS/GS750/B-DB 1977/gs750bclutch.htm Which will be another £73 and change and a wait. So about £120 all in new - I think i'd be scouring Eblag!
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Hate to say this but WON soli's are the daddies especially if you want pulse control.
coil on plug
in Air Cooled
Posted
Whilst i've used Dyna 'S' on plenty of engines it ain't exactly cutting edge is it! Mechanical advance, no retard facility or rev limiter - might as well use Breaker points ! Agree with the Mag thing though but when they do work you get a bloody big fat spark that would ignite water!