Gixer1460

That explains a lot. I'm aware that a lot of the top level racers in the US are using 'dry blocks' - saves a good amount of surplus weight and 30 seconds of total run time is not an issue for cooling.

Proper old skool hi tech before it was mainstream - a fav bike. Fair play for not doing a drastic update.

Looks a super strong block but the cooling looks much reduced compared to the fully wet liner stock block - discuss?

Seriously? You can't hydraulic a cylinder if the valves are open and you'll only bend them if they are! Over-revving doesn't need piston contact to occur (although it usually does) any valve float could catch one with the other or they've got overheated - ign timing wrong or lean mix?

1.25 - std M8

Agreed but your are then limited in bore size - 81mm. Most want to go larger - 84 / 85 and 86mm and for that it needs a billet block.

Direct from NLR in the Land of Uncle Sam. Designed for a Hayabusa but easily adapted.

This is mine - quite small but sufficient! That is an M10 x 50 screw that got modified to pick up on the pump drive and mate with the M8 cap screw holding the ign. rotor

Well it is very green - it was originally a Lawson rep in green but I like it. And i'm with Clive - don't like short arse's on old skool bikes - too German for my taste. Still if the old lady ain't going too anything's possible. Not too loud I hope LOL! Enjoy. I've got a photo somewhere I'll dig it out for comparison.

Not a scooby doo! Never seen any in several sets i've bought or box opened!

Would work but total over kill as its rating is sufficient to turn the entire sump contents over nearly 4x a minute LOL!

From what I can find the GSXR / GSX-F alternators seem to be 22-25A output so stacking all the electrical draws together (ie worse case with everything on) gives std bikes a little surplus for battery charging. Add in additional electrical pumps (fuel and oil scavenge) @ 6A each, wideband lambda's EFI (if fitted) and the system soon runs into deficit with no real alternatives unfortunately. The 'windscreen washer' type pumps used for oil scavenge with 1A draw are obviously more economical electrically.

Well that's one thing off the list. If its all low end / idle range then its possible those circuits are dirty / blocked - carb strip time! What is the idle rpm set at? Does it idle ok?

Plenty of people use electric pumps but they can't be described as geared and huge so I naturally assumed it was a mechanical one! I believe the mechanical parts like in mine come from 50cc / monkey bike engine oil pumps just built into a nice housing.

Basic questions what are carbs from? 750 or Bindit? May be both 36mm but quite different jetting! The pipe and can will have an effect - initially i'd guess lean on decell / stopping - does it pop or bang? Does using the choke make it better or worse? Hopefully it'll have the bandit ignition and not the 750's!

Any mechanical pump can be driven from any rotating shaft - I used the end of the crank. Bigger isn't necessarily better - they deal with small amounts of oil efficiently so are running 'dry' most of the time - my pump gears are maybe 6-10mm wide and 25mm diameter, enough for me.

Ha Ha Ha - shows how long since i've used CV carbs LOL!

Doesn't only one of them have the vacuum take off for the fuel tap, hence 3 same + 1?

Victor Reinz have a very good reputation in gasket manufacture and supply lots of Auto OEM's so don't worry on that score.

Ain't called 'oil cooled' fer nothing!

The tighter you can get the squish the better it improves the burn but the tighter it gets the greater the risk of excess revs destroying the big ends from touching. Multiple base gaskets are ok copper, steel or paper options all good although paper can deform into the transfer galleries blocking up to 25% of their area. Personally I preferred to take the oil out of the block entirely and run external lines - no leaks and cooler oil IMO.

Very impressive and innovative! Can't say i've ever seen anyone use a bevel driven oil pump but if it works then why not!

Wow - not surprised you has HG issues - 81mm o/all liners - 79.5mm bore = 0.75mm liner thickness! New block looks mint - how are the water channels connected to allow flow once the liners are installed? Should enjoy turbo boost with this one.

The new ones compared to your old ones will seem soft as the old ones have had 20-30 years to harden / stiffen up. Personally i'd say the jubbly clips aren't helping - the edges are sharp not dressed or rounded like most OEM clips so can cut the more flexible rubber which will 'balloon' more with intake pulsing but 6 months is pretty poor whatever the cause!

Not such a bad idea and also if you do throw it down the road will stop the pump pissing fuel over a hot engine! Just don't run out of fuel as cranking an engine to build oil pressure to activate the pump to re-fill the bowls can kill an average condition battery!