dago

Check the screws that hold the clips for the wires inside the generator cover

https://aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html instructions here

I replaced mine with an electrex one, not cheap but still ok 20 yes later

i put a bigger cooler on my efe cos i fitted a temp gauge and i was mainly riding to london and in traffic and temp was going up to 125*c, ended up putting thermo stat on it as was taking ages to get up to temp and didn't help with the overheating

I would go with the rs 36mm for low down and mid range or 38 for top end you lose a bit of low down torque but still perfectly usable on the road

I have 18/48 on my efe and it pulls great tried 17 on the front but much prefer the 18

I went 530 on a my 1229 tuned efe with no problems 18 tooth front with 48 rear

could be an indicator unit with auto canceling, auto 1 & 2 being diff length of time before canceling

I also tried different clutch levers with different perches but the lightest made clutch drag. You could try the case mounted clutch cable as used in lockup clutch better routing

I tried something similar to that but it was either dragging or slipping not enough travel.

I use red to but I clean liberally with brake or carb or contact cleaner, any good degreaser I

Thanks for sharing going to try something close to the atu curve but 35' full advance at 3000 and work from there

That's what I thought to, in the manual it says full advance of 32' at 2350 I think for the old stu unit. Will do a bit of fiddling at the weekend if I have time

This is the Dyna 2000 maps I found on line, would be interested to see other what maps other people are running

This is the map it came with not started playing with it yet, been using it almost everyday for a week and not had a kickback yet so will keep it 0 revs till spark for now. If you're running Dyna s with the earlier atu unit the base advance is 12' the STD efe is 10

Hi it's 1229 with mild cams, some headwork and rs38s. Feels better than the Dyna s it's replacing. You can set how many revaluations it turns till spark, currently set to 0, I got it to eliminate kick back to as just bought a whole brand new starter clutch as good used ones are hard to find will let you know if it solves it

Crisis over managed to find original email with the program attachment,{ put it in a safe place and couldn't remember where } All good now cheers

Hi I've treated myself to an Ignitech programmable ignition unit , I'm using the std pick ups and green Dyna coils can any one tell me what settings I need to start with as no luck with the gsx on the drop down list, also tried the classic 1 lobe 2 pick ups which sounds Iike it's trying to start but not catching cheers

Nothing i put new brushes and new bearing in and cleaned it up I was just wondering in case I get stuck

Does anyone know what other starter motors fit an 1100 efe e.g. gsxr ect cheers

never had a prob with flow on mine running 1229 efe engine with rs 38's and mine drinks petrol

i got mine from a certain auction site just search for m16 x 1 fuel tap and you get lots of choice

i didn't block off the oil ways to the studs,but i have the up rated pump gears. some people say you should and some say you shouldn't bit of a debate about it on various sites, make sure the take off banjo bolt isn't to long as can block oil feed to crank bearing

you should keep the pump disabled till the mains and needle are set as the needle also affects 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, the easiest way is to screw the pump stop screw that's go through the carb top in so the pump doesn't open at all

i took mine off the oil gallery as well the one by the ignition cover. been on there over 15 years with no probs