dago

I put a bigger 13 row cooler on mine after getting worried about oil temp, I ended up having to fit a thermostat as it wasn't getting up to temp for ages if at all or only when in traffic, overall it didn't make much difference when in traffic. Fit an oil temp guage first so you can monitor the temp you might be surprised as it might not get as hot as it seems

Expensive but https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/224407995739?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=QJ-AfA-hSSu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=h-H4O-AMS4G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY or https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/224191169358?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_bT4Wd-ZTly&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=h-H4O-AMS4G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Probably there to make it into the 17 digit frame number that's standard now

Let us know what settings you ended up with please. Looking good though

Revs have nothing to do with throttle position, you should mark the the twist grip and housing work out where ¼, ½ ¾ throttle are then you can work out which jets are coming into play

They're quite well known for float heights to be wrong out the box should be 17 mm

Yes the position of forks in relation to the stem. The off set increases or decrease trail affect the turning

The off set on the yokes might be different than before

Just checked mine, 50mm on 38s are the same, slight gap, think it might be because there's a slight radius on the back of the flange, looks like they're spun so part of the manufacturing process

Probably blocked pilot jets , also check float heights and valves. Give carbs a good clean and try again

A 10 row cooler is probably the best bet, I fitted a 13 row to mine and it took forever to get up to temp (gauge fitted), ended up having to fit a thermostat so it only went through cooler when it hit 70'

Tried those magura type hydraulic clutch conversation there was not much difference in pull effort and the stroke not quite long enough so was either slightly dragging or slightly slipping

Perhaps he means pickups?

I normally use petrol if it doesn't leak after about 30 seconds you're fine , water I'd probably leave for a few minutes

Yep springs, retainers and collets on and turn upside down

Just looked today and all marked R . They don't take long to crack but usually just suffice cracks. But next time off gonna shrink tube them. Have used cycle tube in the past

Tell me about it, them poor 5 valve head yam guy's. You've got to remember they only shut for a fraction of a second and have about 150 psi pushing them into their seats

Just my thoughts, the valve seat cutter does not cut the seats exactly the same as the valves are made, similar to rebore and new pistons, grinding valves in is the same as running in, mating one suffice to another. Just my thoughts on the matter, they are 40 year old engines and tolerances are different. I've had them seal with similar pitting with quick petrol test

That's the way they check them where I take car heads, it's not done for long so you get quick result valve grinding is one of those topics like which oil to use, or how to run engine in everyone got there own ideas

I would have thought that was the advantage of checking with petrol, if it holds it's obviously good, you can't leave it to long due to evaporation. Not saying it's the only or right way to check

Refit the valves and springs, fit spark plugs, turn head upside down and fill combustion chamber with petrol, look in the ports to see if leaking, of no leaks you're good to go

I got a set from Robinsons a few years ago and they said they only had the lefts or rights can't remember which in stock and they would fit both hands which they did

Mines on an efe I thought they did one to fit other gsx 1100 best check with SPS sorry for the confusion

Dezza's right about the clutch springs, std ones more than man enough, someone in the past might have put hd springs in to cover up for worn clutch plates, it's the cheapest thing to try first

I found this made the most difference https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/ape-suzuki-forward-clutch-cable-kit/650/ straighter and shorter cable run made s lot of difference. I tried the hydraulic thing but the effort was the same & it either dragged or slipped as the travel was not enough