Reinhoud

This is the valve

No pressure at all...

I bought a set of Raask for my 1000, didn't like the position of the pegs, so I modified it a bit..

Got the check valve in the other day. Also got the connections to install it in the feed line, now find the motivation to put it in

Anyone here who actually measured the bores after getting it back from the machine shop? If yes, how accurate was it?

And then hope the machine shop actually gets it at the right size...

https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/174077174076 https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/154213664881 Both seem to be ok. I did have troubles with aftermarket valve cover gaskets in the past, after that I always bought the OEM ones, but no problems with these.

Yes it does, you just need more RTV

Not sure if the 1000 and 750 frames are equally wide at the pivot point for the rear fork, but I think a rear fork from a Bandit 1200 looks good in a GS.

When it can do 100kms, it can do 2000kms

Modify your ignition so it doesn't shut it off and have some more fun

Connect a O2 sensor with AFR gauge, without it's guessing. Sometimes too rich or too lean can have the same symptomes.

Depends how hard the engine has to work

Most likely. But you have to go electric then

Little update; Been riding with the TD04 for a while now, I like it. Doesn't kick in as hard as the VF20, but goes alright, weird combination of first a bit gentle (lag) and then it's all there.. The TD04 does a way better job at higher rpm. For the TD04 are reconditioning sets available, so you can do it yourself! Not too hard, set cost about 150AUD. Bike was at an annoying rev range when riding around 100km/h. Therefore I put a bigger (1 tooth) front sprocket on it, this did the trick. Now doing 100km/h at about 3700rpm. But, there is a side effect I didn't think of, it accelerates way harder/faster now! The other thing it also does now, it lifts it's front wheel way too easy, the first couple of times it's fun, but I don't feel it coming, but ''too much'' throttle and it comes up, also it 4th gear. And with the police being that strict here, and quite a few unmarked police cars it's not that fun..

I did an attempt to order the check valve..

Hehehe. that took a while, the initial idea was there pretty quick, figuring out how to do it, how to drive it was the challenge. It's about 50% thinking of it before you start, 50% design as you go. Running out of other options was probably the main thing to do it like I did it..

Thanks guys!! Much appriciated!! I was just thinking, a loop in the sucktion doesn't do anything either I guess..

I've been thinking for a solution of my problem, the only thing I can come up with a loop in the suction part of the oil pump, the loop goes above the oil level. Anyone who has a different / better idea, please let me know. Thanks

It's needed because the turbo is below the oil level. The scavenge tank catches the oil from the turbo and lines after the engine has been turned off

Damn, that's something I didn't think of!!! Would a check valve do anything? Because the oil keeps flowing in the same direction? Thanks!

Gentlemen, I've got a problem what doesn't makes sense, or; I can't find the logic.. I'll try to discribe it as wel as possible. Can take photo's if it's not clear enough. Problem; Whenever the bike is parked after use, after about 1 or 2 days an oil leak develops, it's getting worse the longer it's parked. The oil comes from the scavenge tank. The scavenge works fine, sucks more oil up as what the turbo can give it. Scavenge tank holds about 300cc. The thing is; oil keeps dripping from the turbo after about a day, and it doesn't make sense why.. The scavenge catch tank is big enough to hold the oil from the turbo and the oil feed line. The setup; Because of the rollerbearing crank I made an oil feed pump for the turbo, and an oil scavenge pump. The scavenge pump is bigger then the feed. The scavenge sucks up more oil then the feed can provide. The feed pump is on the pottom of the sump, at the lowest point of the engine. Because of this the oil would start leaking through the pump into the turbo. To solve this problem I made a loop in the oil feed line, this loop is about 4cm above the oil level. The scavenge pump is also above the oil level, so it can't be leaking from there I don't think there can be any pressure in the crankcases, breathers are big enough. The only thing what I can think of is the oil feed line, but it has that loop in it, and the top of the loop ends up about 4cm above the oil level, and when there's no pressure in the crankcase, nothing can be pushed out... ?? Anyone who has an idea what might cause this? Feel free to ask questions if it's not clear enough. Thanks

I can make something for you, but it's then made from steel, and you'll need an hydraulic controlled clutch. Take of the part where the clutch control is in, bolt on a steel brim, not very big, with lexan bolted in it.

Your main problem is the clutch controler, or whatever you want to call it.. When you make the clutch hydraulic it shouldn't be a problem.

I made one myself. The biggest challenge was to find a pipe, or whatever, what goes over the basket..