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Not really helpful - which ones? Pilot? Air? Needle? Main? This is why jet kits were developed - they done the leg work so they just work more or less from the off!

Bump for arian

Start with 30% bigger jets

ok, it looks quite good in the lower rev area so I thought maybe original cr

Slave cylinder. Typo. C and P are close to V and L on a computer keyboard, respectively

If you fit air corrector jets and bigger main jets (maybe some needle adjustment too), then they should be fine. I think Grumpys supply air correctors for BS carbs. You'd then basically have a LeDar induction kit, one of the greatest inventions known to humanity.

Wtf is a 'space cylinder' ? If you've rebuilt the slave and replaced the line, I'd say you've still got air in there! If the slave piston is pushed all the way in, its real difficult to bleed air out and get fluid in, so its better to start with it about half in with some fluid behind it then connect to the line and master. You won't know if the clutch is dicky until the operating mechanism is working!

Really not advised unless you put a proper jet kit in them - CV carbs mostly don't like the disturbed / unrestricted airflow these give so the jet kit has to mask this and fuel around it. Personally I like Dynojet kits but others are available - and its not 'just a single jet' so DIY solutions are rarely easy / satisfactory.

Hi - been doing a lot of research for my GS no spark issues. A lot of info on past forums here and GS resources. Also got a Clymer manual in addition to the Haynes one. There's a procedure for resistance testing the unplugged signal generator. Each side of the signal circuit should be 60 - 80 ohms. Mine both read 68 ohms. So gave all contacts another clean, retested coil inputs - still the same - primary 12V, secondary signal wire 0V left, 0.5V right. Reassembled all connections, connected 3 and 4 plug leads to plugs and earthed removed 1 and 2 plugs in caps to head. Result - spark. Did the same on other side - spark again. I'm pretty sure if all plugs removed and earthed to head for a start, you don't get a spark. So not exactly sure why there is a spark now, maybe just resolved from cleaning plug connections. Primed the fuel to the carbs and took a while but started fine. Quick test ride and all good. So happy to take it out for ride. Just got a leaking fork seal to replace - but that's easy - not like electrics! Still not sure about the 0.5V on the right hand secondary coil wire? May have always been like it but it runs fine. I had no knowledge of testing ignitor cdi. Thanks for the previous advice.

Not much new on the project, but here’s a YouTube I did as I wait for a few parts…

I am considering putting the individual cone filters on the carbs as it’s so difficult to get them off/ on with the standard system, if I do is there a recommended jet change ?

Aaaa, no its with cylinder spacer.

Hi, I used a 1.5kohm resistor soldered in line on the pink wire to cdi.

Upshotknothole....cheers dude I'll look into it

So I got this bike that’s been sitting in a garage for 10 years, I replaced the clutch line, space cylinder, and I also rebuilt the inside of the master cylinder. We managed to bleed the line but we can’t get the piston for the slave cylinder to engage with the push rod. When pressing the master cylinder in we can feel the slave piston push and start to rise, not enough to reach the push rod lh. Is there any chance the clutch is seized and that’s why the push rod is deep in? Or do I still have air in my line? it runs and starts, no leaks any where as we would’ve had drops underneath.

If you've got a multimeter, measure the resistance on the pink wire in the different gears. You want the upper gears to show the same resistance as 1-3. Hayabusas used 6.8K Ohm to trick their bikes into being in 5th gear. If it's easier, you could probably also just pull the gear position switch off the bike and measure the resistance of each gear on it. I'm sure someone in the members projects section has recorded all the values in the past when setting up fuel injection. With only a mechanical speedo, it's probably just limited by the gear and RPM. I'm still curious if a B6 CDI would work or not.

compression ratio

Cr?

Hi,managed to get some time on the 750. When I rode,the restrictions definitely kicked in on higher gears. Jaydee , I found the pink wire ,this where the resistor goes ? And does it matter what resistance values? I notice the pins are smaller than bandit 6 cdi,and redline 500rpm lower than 6 ,so probably can't swap cdi at a guess. Also speedo only goes to 180KMH ,so wonder if any restriction here like some Japanese imports....if anyone can shed any more light I'd be grateful. Cdi has 2 plugs ,one 8pin with 5 wires,yellow,pink,black/blue line,black/red line, and orange/red line. 2nd plug has 4 pin and 4 wires,light brown,black/ yellow line ,orange/yellow line and black/ white line. Thanks to guys who helped on previous post,not much info on these bikes around....

nice! Even stock CR?