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simplest way to fit modern wheels on an EFE?


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But if it wasn't extended it probably would not fit. I see now. I'm not a stretch kinda guy. If it's another swingarm off another bike and it happens to be an inch or 2 longer thats fine but stretching is not my thing.

Maybe if I have a chain sprocket combo that extends the adjusters just a few cms.

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1 hour ago, boilerdude said:

so a hayabusa wheel witha 180 fits fine but these guys have trouble fitting a 5.5 wheel with a 180?

I see the twisted spoke is the 2nd gen hayabusa wheel... so thats what I assume I should go with.

It's not a Busa wheel. The 2nd gen Busa wheel has windows in the spokes, first gen is straight spoke.

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Edited by Gammaboy
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5 hours ago, boilerdude said:

ok so i'm going to assume thats a slingshot rear wheel... And instead of have the sprocket carrier machined down you just put shorter bolts in. And half nuts as you said... And then just brought the front sprocket out that much further.

It might even be a carrier from a GS500 or GSX or something

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My bad, it must be slingy, & Busa is in my GS!  Anyway the reason i went that way is cos K series wheels are the same size but the hub itself is wider, so making sprocket/chain alignment too hard. 

Output shaft is fine as it's only spaced rather than paying for an offset sprocket.

And carrier matches wheel, def not GS/GSX!

GS1100 is K series front & Busa rear, EFE is Slingshot front & rear. Both running 520 chain & sprockets ;) 

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'

In theory you can calculate what size of tyre is to be accepted in the frame.

The limiting factor is the physical distance between the rails that runs from the swingarm pivot point to start of the rear seat – the ones where the footpegs are mounted. You have aprox. 251,4mm between these frame rails.

Of course you also need space for the chain – ex. 25,2mm. If you want the wheel centred in the frame, you will therefore need 25,2mm on each side of the tyre.

The calculation goes like this; there is 251,4mm - 2 x 25,2mm = 201,0mm. Theoretically you could slam a 201,0mm tyre in between the frame rails – but that would not be practical, because now the tyre will rub on both the frame rails and the chain, and the chain will also rub on the frame rails – therefore we need to put in some space for clearance.

There will be different levels of “safe” for clearance issue due to personal taste (read: balls) -  but in this example I’ll go on the “conservative” side of “safe” and put in 5,0mm for both the: 

                  1) chain-to-frame-clearance and

                  2) chain-to-tyre-clearance.

Ergo you’ll “loose” an additional 10.0mm for clearance (2 x 5,0mm) – and that will be on EACH side, if you still want the wheel to sit centred in the frame.

The end result including clearance is therefore 201.0mm – 20,0mm = 181,0mm.        You can "safely" put in a 181.0mm wide tyre (y)

If you really want a wider tyre in there, you can compromise either the centring of the wheel by a couple of millimetres, or the spacing for clearance – or both.

Or you could take a radical approach and widen the frame :TB:

 

....... and as Duckndive statede: if your using EFE hangers and pegs you will need to modify the L/Hand one to clear the offset chain.

 

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On 6/3/2017 at 2:21 AM, Captain Chaos said:

check out the archives!

Does it have to be floating rotors from an 89-96 kitten 600? or can I also use the solid ones from and 88?

http://www.Eblag.com/itm/88-Suzuki-Katana-GSX-600-F-Pair-of-Good-Front-Brake-Rotors-4-36mm-FastFreeShip-/291579877780?hash=item43e383d994:g:I0EAAOxykmZTKd4Y&vxp=mtr

Shit I see now. The bolts are wrong. Ok So it's only floating rotors from 89 and up kitana 600 only that will work. 88 is excluded. 

Edited by boilerdude
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