Danish

' Hi ... and welcome of course :-S Is it for real, that you can pick up a B12 with engine and all for only € 350,- ????? Best regards from a deep and dark dungeon in the northern part of Denmark

' .... actually found this foto in my archive, that DnD originally posted sometime ago (might be years for what I know - time flies by ?) As you can see the “G”-stamped cams are meant for Austria, Sweden, Switzerland and W.Germany …. the “W” in front of Germany reminds of how old these EFE-beast really are '

' As Nickel mentions, the unrestricted (124bhp) EFE-cams have a “D” stamped on the side face (at the ends if you will). Whereas the restricted version (100 bhp) is marked with a “G” at the ends. Maybe that would be a “G” for German ?? Anyhow, “G” for German is my way of remembering this . '

´ Mr. Gribley certainly used up all the extra space he found by cutting away some of the inside bracing . . . .

´ ....... and here is another from a dutch project .... (maybee it was Spike's procjet ???)

´ ..... oh, and I've even found the cut away tabs/bracing pieces

' He simply cut away some of the inside bracing on the standard swingarm, to make room for the wider tyre . . . .

´ I found some old pictures from then the clever mr. Gribley was doing his conversion on a stock swingarm with a 180 section tyre – though it was a braced swingarm, but otherwise stock.

' In theory you can calculate what size of tyre is to be accepted in the frame. The limiting factor is the physical distance between the rails that runs from the swingarm pivot point to start of the rear seat – the ones where the footpegs are mounted. You have aprox. 251,4mm between these frame rails. Of course you also need space for the chain – ex. 25,2mm. If you want the wheel centred in the frame, you will therefore need 25,2mm on each side of the tyre. The calculation goes like this; there is 251,4mm - 2 x 25,2mm = 201,0mm. Theoretically you could slam a 201,0mm tyre in between the frame rails – but that would not be practical, because now the tyre will rub on both the frame rails and the chain, and the chain will also rub on the frame rails – therefore we need to put in some space for clearance. There will be different levels of “safe” for clearance issue due to personal taste (read: balls) - but in this example I’ll go on the “conservative” side of “safe” and put in 5,0mm for both the: 1) chain-to-frame-clearance and 2) chain-to-tyre-clearance. Ergo you’ll “loose” an additional 10.0mm for clearance (2 x 5,0mm) – and that will be on EACH side, if you still want the wheel to sit centred in the frame. The end result including clearance is therefore 201.0mm – 20,0mm = 181,0mm. You can "safely" put in a 181.0mm wide tyre If you really want a wider tyre in there, you can compromise either the centring of the wheel by a couple of millimetres, or the spacing for clearance – or both. Or you could take a radical approach and widen the frame ....... and as Duckndive statede: if your using EFE hangers and pegs you will need to modify the L/Hand one to clear the offset chain.

Yeaahhhh . . . but we all luuuuve you . . . just the way you are :-D

No kidding ????