boilerdude Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 Or if somebody knows where I could get one of them cool aftermarket swingarms for an efe... Quote
CockneyRick Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 If you look closely I had to use 1/2 nuts on carrier, but tbh i'm sure it was all about spacers & lining it up. Chain run was ok too. Most mods were down to extended arm! 1 Quote
boilerdude Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 But if it wasn't extended it probably would not fit. I see now. I'm not a stretch kinda guy. If it's another swingarm off another bike and it happens to be an inch or 2 longer thats fine but stretching is not my thing. Maybe if I have a chain sprocket combo that extends the adjusters just a few cms. Quote
CockneyRick Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 Stretch makes no difference, arm gap at back is still the same Quote
boilerdude Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) so a hayabusa wheel witha 180 fits fine but these guys have trouble fitting a 5.5 wheel with a 180? I see the twisted spoke is the 2nd gen hayabusa wheel... so thats what I assume I should go with. Edited June 21, 2017 by boilerdude Quote
boilerdude Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 probably a dumb question but is it hard on the output shaft moving the front sprocket out that much? Quote
Gammaboy Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, boilerdude said: so a hayabusa wheel witha 180 fits fine but these guys have trouble fitting a 5.5 wheel with a 180? I see the twisted spoke is the 2nd gen hayabusa wheel... so thats what I assume I should go with. It's not a Busa wheel. The 2nd gen Busa wheel has windows in the spokes, first gen is straight spoke. Edited June 21, 2017 by Gammaboy Quote
boilerdude Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 Ok so... that red wheel is in fact not a hayabusa wheel at all you're saying? Quote
boilerdude Posted June 21, 2017 Author Posted June 21, 2017 ok so i'm going to assume thats a slingshot rear wheel... And instead of have the sprocket carrier machined down you just put shorter bolts in. And half nuts as you said... And then just brought the front sprocket out that much further. 1 Quote
Reinhoud Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 I have a Bandit 1200 swingarm in my GS1000, if it fits in that, it should fit in an EFE, shouldn't it? That can hold a 180 tyre. Plus, that solid looking Bandit 1200 swingarm looks good. 1 Quote
Gammaboy Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 5 hours ago, boilerdude said: ok so i'm going to assume thats a slingshot rear wheel... And instead of have the sprocket carrier machined down you just put shorter bolts in. And half nuts as you said... And then just brought the front sprocket out that much further. It might even be a carrier from a GS500 or GSX or something 1 Quote
CockneyRick Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 My bad, it must be slingy, & Busa is in my GS! Anyway the reason i went that way is cos K series wheels are the same size but the hub itself is wider, so making sprocket/chain alignment too hard. Output shaft is fine as it's only spaced rather than paying for an offset sprocket. And carrier matches wheel, def not GS/GSX! GS1100 is K series front & Busa rear, EFE is Slingshot front & rear. Both running 520 chain & sprockets 1 Quote
Danish Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 ' In theory you can calculate what size of tyre is to be accepted in the frame. The limiting factor is the physical distance between the rails that runs from the swingarm pivot point to start of the rear seat – the ones where the footpegs are mounted. You have aprox. 251,4mm between these frame rails. Of course you also need space for the chain – ex. 25,2mm. If you want the wheel centred in the frame, you will therefore need 25,2mm on each side of the tyre. The calculation goes like this; there is 251,4mm - 2 x 25,2mm = 201,0mm. Theoretically you could slam a 201,0mm tyre in between the frame rails – but that would not be practical, because now the tyre will rub on both the frame rails and the chain, and the chain will also rub on the frame rails – therefore we need to put in some space for clearance. There will be different levels of “safe” for clearance issue due to personal taste (read: balls) - but in this example I’ll go on the “conservative” side of “safe” and put in 5,0mm for both the: 1) chain-to-frame-clearance and 2) chain-to-tyre-clearance. Ergo you’ll “loose” an additional 10.0mm for clearance (2 x 5,0mm) – and that will be on EACH side, if you still want the wheel to sit centred in the frame. The end result including clearance is therefore 201.0mm – 20,0mm = 181,0mm. You can "safely" put in a 181.0mm wide tyre If you really want a wider tyre in there, you can compromise either the centring of the wheel by a couple of millimetres, or the spacing for clearance – or both. Or you could take a radical approach and widen the frame ....... and as Duckndive statede: if your using EFE hangers and pegs you will need to modify the L/Hand one to clear the offset chain. 1 Quote
Danish Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 ´ I found some old pictures from then the clever mr. Gribley was doing his conversion on a stock swingarm with a 180 section tyre – though it was a braced swingarm, but otherwise stock. 2 Quote
Danish Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 ' He simply cut away some of the inside bracing on the standard swingarm, to make room for the wider tyre . . . . 1 Quote
Danish Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 ´ ..... oh, and I've even found the cut away tabs/bracing pieces 2 Quote
Danish Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) ´ ....... and here is another from a dutch project .... (maybee it was Spike's procjet ???) Edited June 22, 2017 by Danish 1 Quote
Danish Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 ´ Mr. Gribley certainly used up all the extra space he found by cutting away some of the inside bracing . . . . 1 Quote
boilerdude Posted June 22, 2017 Author Posted June 22, 2017 So like I said earlier it could be a matter of chain length and sprockets and where exactly the chain adjusters end up. For some people to have to do that and some people saying apparently did not. Looks like I would have to just get started and see. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 now that @Danish mentioned it, I remember what needs modifying on the EFE swinger for a 180 tyre. I knew I saw it somewhere before. Quote
boilerdude Posted June 22, 2017 Author Posted June 22, 2017 Wish there was a way to keep stock rotors. I like the way they look. Quote
boilerdude Posted June 22, 2017 Author Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) Would anybody mind taking measurements of their custom spacers and rear brake hanger to get a slingshot wheel centered? Edited June 22, 2017 by boilerdude Quote
CockneyRick Posted June 23, 2017 Posted June 23, 2017 Can't help there as mine's assembled. I think i also machined down the rear brake carrier too! Just assemble it with whatever you have/buy, then make it fit. That's what i did on both mine. All trial & error 1 Quote
boilerdude Posted June 24, 2017 Author Posted June 24, 2017 Well first things first. I have both front wheels off and bearings out. Gonna order some kitana front rotors and going to the machine shop and bearing shop on monday. Quote
boilerdude Posted June 25, 2017 Author Posted June 25, 2017 (edited) On 6/3/2017 at 2:21 AM, Captain Chaos said: check out the archives! Does it have to be floating rotors from an 89-96 kitten 600? or can I also use the solid ones from and 88? http://www.Eblag.com/itm/88-Suzuki-Katana-GSX-600-F-Pair-of-Good-Front-Brake-Rotors-4-36mm-FastFreeShip-/291579877780?hash=item43e383d994:g:I0EAAOxykmZTKd4Y&vxp=mtr Shit I see now. The bolts are wrong. Ok So it's only floating rotors from 89 and up kitana 600 only that will work. 88 is excluded. Edited June 25, 2017 by boilerdude Quote
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