GS1000 Turbo, attempt no 2

[Gixer1460]

6 hours ago, Cheeky4648 said:

They are shorter and fit the stroke of the 1000. Also maybe people don’t look further than the end of their nose. 

They are for the same stroke as GSX1000 Katana, GSX1100 Katana, EFE and GS1100G @ 66mm, so I can't see how they are shorter. But if they were, they would be too long for GS1000 @ 64.8mm and would change the rod / crank angle - but that could be a benefit? And can assure you that pro drag racing engine builders look considerably further than the end of their beaks if there are advantages to give an edge! I've no axe to grind either way - just trying to establish correct information.

[Reinhoud]

Got some parts in yesterday, now I can do a lot!

Saving up for the billet clutch basket now.

Frame has been powder coated, new inner tube in the front fork, headlight got a new layer of chrome, new front tyre.

Today I put the cylinders and the head on.

 

 

[Maggotbreath]

Right on, looks great!

[Reinhoud]

The billet clutch basket came in today, about a week earlier as expected.

 

Put the basket in the lathe straight away to take 7mm of to make it fit in a GS crankcase.

Clutch is working again.

Getting somewhere.

[Reinhoud]

I cleaned the carbies today, damn, what a smell came out of them! The carbies have been laying in a corner of the shed for several years..

 

Yesterday I got a new chain, all installed.

Waiting for gaskets, when I have those I can put all the covers on the engine.

[clivegto]

Nice progress @Reinhoud I see your plenum is side fed is it baffled inside. 

[Reinhoud]

12 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Nice progress @Reinhoud I see your plenum is side fed is it baffled inside. 

No baffles.. No plenum expert

 

[Reinhoud]

This plenem was the third, I had 2 smaller ones before, the first one it would hardly run on, while other bikes had no problems with that type of plenum, the 2nd one was a lot better, but still crap.

The side fed is because there is not much room down there. My first plenum was fed from the center.

[Reinhoud]

Bike is running.

The wiring still needs to be finished, fired up straight away, looks like there is a minor oil leak, I think the starter motor..

No excesive smoke or vibrations, runs reasonably well actually, haven't had a ride yet, but on the driveway the engine feels very torquie.

Carburetors need to be synchronized, and I want to check the ignition timing between cylinders 1/4 and 2/3.

 

[Maggotbreath]

Right on dude!!!! post up video or it didn't happen.

Edited March 28, 2020 by Maggotbreath

[Swirl]

Just read through the thread Stirling work I must say

[Reinhoud]

Bit of an update.

 

I had the bike for the roadworthy test a couple of weeks ago, it passed but needed aproval from transport because the guy who did the test wasn't sure about the laws regarding the turbo, turns out, as long as the exhaust doesn't produce more than 100dB I can do whatever I want.

 

Bike smokes like hell when going flat out, no smoke at all when riding it according to the law.

It still isn't registered because the turbo got way too much oil pressure (hopefully this is causing the smoking), took me quite a while to figure out what was the problem, found it accidently yesterday.

The piston in the oil pressure regulator is pushed in it's resting position by a spring, the return goes straight back in the sump.

When the pump pumps the oil in the regulator, the oil also goes on the other side of the piston, and here is where the oil amplified the spring tension, so I drilled a "breather" in there, and that solved the problem

 

Bike runs at 7 psi, ignition timing is stock, and she runs pretty nice, bike is not slow, but doesn't do anything unexpected, fish tailing or lifting it's front wheel at moments you don't want it.

It's easy to keep it under control, it still goes from 100 to 200km/h in top gear in about 5 seconds, I think..

Bike has about the same power with the 7 psi as what it had before on 17 with the ignition timing of and the carbies not adjusted correctly, it runs way better now.

 

I'm also busy with the seat, the steel plate was a bit cold on my fat ass, so I'm going to stick some closed cell rubber on that, it also gives the seat a bit more volume, looks better.

Next week I'm going to put rego on it.

Also going to order a boost controler, and then probably take it to the dyno to see what the A/F does, also it's probably easier to see what happens to the A/F when the boost is raised..

 

 

 

 

 

[Reinhoud]

 

[gsx]

That is cool as penguin Piss 

[vizman]

He’s not wrong, that is one kool looking gs

[Maggotbreath]

Right on, that's awesome!

[Reinhoud]

Oil pressure to turbo is under control now, made a new regulator with smaller internals, pressure is 20psi at idle, 40psi on higher revs.

Smoking is gone now, thank god, big relief.

It's registered, took it for a ride today, was good.

[Reinhoud]

My bike always had vibrations in the handle bars, now the vibrations are almost gone..

I must have something right with the crankshaft, I did take my time indexing it.

I put dial indicators on the pistons, and than rotate the crank, than look on the dial indicators when the pistons stop moving.

The weird thing was, if both pistons stop moving within 0.01 / 0.02mm on the clocks, and than rotate the crank through the dead point, it didn't automatically mean the pistons started moving at with the same rate

This is where I spend time to make that right. I checked the crank what I had, and this crank did had this problem. Apparently it does make a difference if you have this right.

[Gixer1460]

I guess slightly different tolerance / clearance in BE bearings will produce that effect - on way up both bearings are loaded so will top out at same time, then through the dwell period the pins move to opposite side of the bearing and it one has , say, +1 - 2 thou difference, it will move later than the other?

[Reinhoud]

26 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

I guess slightly different tolerance / clearance in BE bearings will produce that effect - on way up both bearings are loaded so will top out at same time, then through the dwell period the pins move to opposite side of the bearing and it one has , say, +1 - 2 thou difference, it will move later than the other?

Maybe.. May be it's also the slightest difference in piston postion when the mixture is ignited..

Althought the difference in piston position is minimal, it is a bit in degrees on the crank

[Reinhoud]

Boost controller came in last week, installed it and had a test ride..

Turbo is cranking out about 12 psi at the moment, I think this is about the max what this little turbo can give.

Bike is fast enough I think, there are no straight roads here, I'm pretty happy with the power it cranks out, maybe if I can find an afordable VF23 or 22 one day I'll get it.

 

Bike does suffer detonation with the boost raised with the ignition retard set on 4 degrees. I had a good quality 95 octane petrol in the tank.

I tried 98 octane from a iffy service station, the only servo what sells 98, there is a difference, but not much! So I'm going to tune it that it runs well on 95.

That iffy servo is the only servo what sells 98 everywhere, but my car runs like crap on that brand and uses a lot more fuel as with the top brands.

 

Because the ignition retard jumps from 4 to 8 degrees I'm going to test how the bike runs on 8 degrees retard but with the ignition advanced a few degrees, so I have 6 degrees retard on boost.

Because every degree I do not have to retard is good.

Bike runs better with the ignition advanced.

[Reinhoud]

Still busy fine tuning, goes very slow.

It's winter, I can do about 1 test run a day. During the day the sunlight is too bright, can't read my AFR gauge, and when it's getting dark the wallabies come out, you don't want to hit one of them with 160km/h on the clock. 

 

For some reason the turbo cranks out more boost now, it jumps to 15psi in the blink of an eye, bike goes very well.

It still has detonation, first get the right jet size before I start fidling with the ignition timing.

AFR was 13, put bigger jets in it, now it's 10..

About to order some jets, unfortunally the bike shops don't stock them.

 

The rear brake starts playing up, it seized, when I loosen the bleed nipple everything is alright again..

 

It looks like I can't adjust the ignition retard, looks like that whatever number I put it on, the retard stays the same..

 

Edited July 10, 2020 by Reinhoud

[Reinhoud]

Am I correct that with a richer mixture the turbo spools up quicker and keeps a more stabile boost? Or is my bike breaking in?

 

I put bigger jets in it and the boost gauge jumps to the max once of a sudden... 

 

[Gixer1460]

Turbo's are driven by heat end of! A richer mixture will generally cool things down by not completely burning in the cylinder it also delays the onset of detonation also a factor in overheating an engine. But the rich mixture could be igniting in the turbine housing giving large volumes of gas instantly and spooling the turbine. Be wary of this occurring for too long - it is the method used in 'anti-lag' systems and if used too long or excessively it eats turbine blades / destroys turbo's !

If the system is fuelled correctly, an AFR of 12:1 WOT (IMO) is healthy . . . . . numbers below 11 and 10:1 are not and are masking excessive static CR or excessive boost.

[Reinhoud]

I had an AFR of 13, I ordered one size up from what I had in, but I put the next step up I had available, and they were too big, AFR is 10 with the jets I have in now.

New jets come in next monday, hopefully. Mail is bloody slow here, from the mainland to Tasmania usually takes a week.