Hydraulic clutch for air cooled

[wraith]

Just seen this on Eblag. Might be of interest to someone 

Item number 196601266483

Don't know if they are any good 

[Gsx1100er]

EFE owners, form an orderly queue ! 

[Reinhoud]

I made a hydraulic clutch myself on my GS1000

[Reinhoud]

15 hours ago, wraith said:

Just seen this on Eblag. Might be of interest to someone 

Item number 196601266483

Don't know if they are any good 

If you get the right size/diameter pump it shouls work alright

[Gixer1460]

Bit light on the instructions and seems that its aimed at moto x, pit bikes, ATC's so use on a 'proper' bike may not function well!

But for £15 who's going to give it a go . . . . . . oh and doesn't appear to have a bleed screw so maybe invest in a bleed screw banjo bolt also !

[Dezza]

I tried an expensive Venhill kit on my efe engined bike and it was a total waste of money. Made jack shit difference to the clutch pull. The (tiny) locknut on the actuating rod came loose on one ride though causing me to have to stop and faff about with it by the roadside. I found ensuring the OEM springs are good along with optimising the cable routing and lubrication, and that the lever/perch pivot isn't worn is the way to go. And avoid 'performance' clutch springs unless you have the grip of Terminator 2.

[coombehouse]

You can't defy the laws of physics. If you are moving the clutch actuator by the same amount by applying the same amount of movement at the lever, the fact you are using hydraulics only means you are removing the friction caused by the cable. 

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, coombehouse said:

You can't defy the laws of physics. If you are moving the clutch actuator by the same amount by applying the same amount of movement at the lever, the fact you are using hydraulics only means you are removing the friction caused by the cable. 

True, but as the lever ratio is likely to be different with hydraulics the pull could be quite changed - just see the feel differences with brakes and changed master bores!

[Dezza]

My understanding is there will always be a trade-off with hydraulics. For a clutch, changing to a lighter lever action may well result in the actuation mechanism not moving enough to disengage the clutch fully resulting in clutch drag. Maybe this is why Suzuki did not use a hydraulic clutch on the last versions of the Katana 1100, and instead went with an electronic servo to lighten the clutch pull. In my experience of nearly 40 years of owning an efe engined bike, an optimally set up OEM cable mechanism works best. Checking that the bike hasn't got heavy duty clutch springs is a good first step though. Many of these bikes have had heavy springs fitted over the years.

[coombehouse]

1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

True, but as the lever ratio is likely to be different with hydraulics the pull could be quite changed - just see the feel differences with brakes and changed master bores!

That is true but the same rules apply to a cable clutch, change the ratio, reduce the effort, reduce the clutch movement. 

[Reinhoud]

Didn't read properly, answer was given already..

Edited September 21 by Reinhoud

[Bubba1135]

On 9/20/2024 at 9:45 PM, Dezza said:

My understanding is there will always be a trade-off with hydraulics. For a clutch, changing to a lighter lever action may well result in the actuation mechanism not moving enough to disengage the clutch fully resulting in clutch drag. Maybe this is why Suzuki did not use a hydraulic clutch on the last versions of the Katana 1100, and instead went with an electronic servo to lighten the clutch pull. In my experience of nearly 40 years of owning an efe engined bike, an optimally set up OEM cable mechanism works best. Checking that the bike hasn't got heavy duty clutch springs is a good first step though. Many of these bikes have had heavy springs fitted over the years.

I put OEM plates, steels & springs back in mine, new lever and an APE cable routed different to stock, works a treat.