coombehouse

13 volts is not enough, it should be within the range 13.9 to 14.7 volts. Have you hard wired the 3 wires from the stator directly to the reg rectifier & the remaining wires direct to the battery, not through the old wiring loom?

I stopped doing that a few years ago when I tasted a mystery liquid near the front wheel of my bike. It was cat piss

Thought it might be the lightweight version

No drawings I'm afraid. I just measured the hole pitch in the casing, drilled them & then marked out the material to be removed on the aluminium block. Then just freehand milling until everything looked right. The bracket that holds the cable outer is a separate piece that slides into hole in the main bracket& is held by a grub screw.

This may be the case but I'm sure that the huge advances in tyre technology will mean much greater forces acting on 40 year old frames which may mean they need some additional help. You only have to look at classic TT lap times to see that something has changed.

If you are machining the block to achieve zero deck height, is this with the base gasket included in that calculation? Do you have a piston to head clearance (squish) figure in mind? In my experience you have to build the motor, measure & then machine to get it right

The lift figures match those in the Suzuki manual for gsxr1100k which is reassuring.

In that case it needs to be 0.036" to include the base gasket

You probably need to do the charging mod that is stickied at the top of this page to prevent over voltage killing it

Both were via Eblag

Are you sure about the compressed head gasket figure? Doesn't seem right to me. I believe the head gasket is 0.7mm, the base 0.2mm

I've had a few replacement sets from ABE & also a set from Poland & a set from China. The quality was great on all of them.

I rest my case

He's saying that you can tune as much as you like but gearing is a ratio that is unaffected by an increase in horsepower.

Interesting. So are you running a different primary gear or modified gearbox?

According to gearing commander, that sprocket setup gives 68.8mph at 4k. It could be wrong though

I should check your Speedo.

As the G model cams seem to be very similar to the MK1 bandit & the power figures as standard would confirm that, I'm sure that someone with a dot head on a bandit will be along in a minute. I have seen elsewhere, a MK1 with a skimmed head make just under 120rwhp so worth the effort

I might be missing something here but why have you listed the specs for the 600 in your chart?

It's an expensive day out to look around a glorified bike shop. If you add up the amount you've paid for fuel, parking, tickets & rubbish food, you could buy something useful instead for your bike.

Regardless of what the other guy says, when you buy a new pingle fuel tap, it comes with hylomar & instructions to liberally coat the bolt threads to seal them. It's also standard practice in aerospace to use sealant on bolts when they go into an integral fuel tank. Anyway when I had a similar problem on my bike, I replaced the washers with new copper ones & coated the bolts heavily with hylomar. No more seepage.

The sprocket carrier looks to be a better design for easy machining too.

They do but they are quite a fragile wheel. I've seen a few bent badly by potholes

Is the sprocket carrier on these wheels very narrow, like the k model wheels, making it difficult to get the offset?

Numbers to consider & draw your own conclusions Swing arm width at pivot is 226mm inc caps Tyre nominal width is 180mm. With wheel on centre 226-180=46mm /2=23mm gap per side A DID 530vx3 chain is 25.3mm wide across the pins. A non o ring DID chain is 22.55mm wide A DID 520vx3 chain is 18.69mm wide.