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GSx1100 Dresda Solitaire (I may have had a Clivecident).


imago

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Got the sleeve made with the ID a couple of mm under size, that's pressed in now and ready to take the ID out to a finish size.

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Moved on to turning one of the hex bar pieces into a cush drive pin as a trial run. Worked out fine, but dull/repetitive to do and I can't do the actual pins until I see how the chain run is.

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So moved on to the equally exciting job of roughing out the lower engine mounting plates.

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Glad you're able to document these jobs, when it's done and all shiney and pretty parked up at a show/pub/burger van meet folk will walk up look at it and never realise the hours of thought and work doing a hundred invisible jobs like these that it takes to create something special. (y)

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49 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Does the hex bar have to be extra special strong stuff Larry. 

No, I was going to use some EN16 or something but when I looked at the pins and tried to find out what they were originally from it turns out that they're HadOneNeverDidAgain from CG/CB/RM etc. and they're just mild steel.

The only difference between this and them is that it has six in the carrier where they're either four or five. So 6 x 9 = 54 mm means the drive is taken through over 2" of steel with rubber cushions. It should be fine I reckon. (y)

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1 minute ago, imago said:

No, I was going to use some EN16 or something but when I looked at the pins and tried to find out what they were originally from it turns out that they're HadOneNeverDidAgain from CG/CB/RM etc. and they're just mild steel.

The only difference between this and them is that it has six in the carrier where they're either four or five. So 6 x 9 = 54 mm means the drive is taken through over 2" of steel with rubber cushions. It should be fine I reckon. (y)

That's interesting bud, cheers man (y)

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17 minutes ago, clivegto said:

That's interesting bud, cheers man (y)

It's a good design of sprocket carrier and cush drive, and when I get  bit of spare time I'm going to see if it could be adapted to fit in place of the Suzuki 'cheese wedge' set up. If so, then making up a carrier adaptor to suit would open up quite a few options for widths and fitments.

 

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A few more bits done and boxes ticked. I'm trying to pick off some of the dull stuff while the enthusiasm is up and leave the 'nice' stuff for those can barely be bothered days. :tu

The carrier bearing arrived so I opened up the sleeve to suit and pressed it in.

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Then got the OS lower engine mount plate shaped up, checked it was all sitting right and sung in position, then welded the spacer tubes so that it can go on and off without faff. A quick coat of exhaust paint will keep it tidy until it goes to the powder coater with some other stuff. I'm planning on all the brackets, battery mount etc type stuff being done in black rather than matching it to the frame colour.

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Time to see if the calculations match reality with the chain. Mock up with a 630 c&s, (no it's not an anchor chain from the Titanic!). Pretty damn good IMHO, 7mm between chain and arm with the suspension at full extension. One chain cover mount to lose, and contact with the NS shock spring. Dropping to the intended 520 will help, and I can set the sprockets in a touch. Then the bigger option would be different shocks. Basically, it works as planned/hoped/intended. (y)20240218_090359.thumb.jpg.567812aba8b321253bbd37659c3c65d8.jpg20240218_090405.thumb.jpg.888499728299174c6e0d443ecba2a9f3.jpg20240218_090408.thumb.jpg.6d2e40eae237dad10d24478a27f5f143.jpg20240218_090420.thumb.jpg.10cd7ac036dc49b2fb9ec3bc1964b054.jpg

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With everything in place it's out with the slip gauges to get the finish size of the spacer. 23 mm tight, 22.5 mm slip. So a 22 mm spacer required to allow for fitting and give some pinch on the arm with the spindle. 20240218_092824.thumb.jpg.a85967812f67a59b372cfebc19496999.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
23 minutes ago, clivegto said:

So what's all fuss about these M unit's ? 

They're reliable, feature heavy, integrate with stuff off the bike via blue tooth, and massively cut down on the wiring required to make up the loom.

However, if you're not going to use all the bells and whistles features for remote starting, lighting effects (pulsed brakes, hazards, headlamp delay etc etc etc. then they're just an expensive modern alternative to fuses and relays. So for the Dresda with its simple wiring requirements and no need of the features I'm using a FuzeBlock which is better than a standard analogue fuse box, but not as advanced and feature heavy as an M-Unit and a third of the price.

The draw through is getting an M-Unit because it will be having a much more comprehensive wiring system and I want the features it comes with.

Usual story in that it's horses for courses. :tu

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5 hours ago, Dezza said:

What happens when it goes faulty? Will it be like many modern car electrical faults that quickly escalate in cost and frustration trying to rectify? Any info on the reliability of these things?

They're pretty reliable now, which means you can get the odd failure but it's rare. A bit like CDI or ignitors they rarely fail, it's usually something else which goes tits up and remains undetected until if takes them down. Earlier version did have more failures, but that was mostly down to poor installs and/or them being grafted onto a system with other problems.

Electrical work remains on of the most bodged, short cut heavy and poorly diagnosed systems on bikes and cars. It's a very simple system in terms of what it needs to do (move electrons from A to B).

Personally I wouldn't dream of fitting anything like an M-Unit to wiring that was more than 5 years old or had been messed about with. To me that's the same level or storing trouble as fitting new rings without honing the bores, new pads on warped discs, sticky tyres with shagged shocks etc.

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That's about 33 degrees more than I manage  thruppenny bitting round corners these days .....but when I was younger I was much faster , obviously... :stop::D:D

Just quickly looked up a 2020 yam r1 and it claims 56° so I reckon you'll be able to get your money's worth from every mm of tread width :tu

Edited by DAZ
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1 hour ago, DAZ said:

That's about 33 degrees more than I manage  thruppenny bitting round corners these days .....but when I was younger I was much faster , obviously... :stop::D:D

Just quickly looked up a 2020 yam r1 and it claims 56° so I reckon you'll be able to get your money's worth from every mm of tread width :tu

It's unlikely to get anywhere near that in real life tbh. I was just curious how the geometry was stacking up with my K1 GSXR1000 reference. Part of the idea for the build being to see how close I could get to K1 GSXR specs using 40 year old gear.

Absolutely no idea why, but posting it on FaceBook seems to have stirred up a few loons. :/

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2 hours ago, imago said:

Absolutely no idea why, but posting it on FaceBook seems to have stirred up a few loons. :/

Have a mate with a h2sx kwack that has a lean sensor built in to the dash .... Every flippin' time we stop I get a report as he checks his chicken strips ...... O.o ffs

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3 minutes ago, DAZ said:

Have a mate with a h2sx kwack that has a lean sensor built in to the dash .... Every flippin' time we stop I get a report as he checks his chicken strips ...... O.o ffs

From a company point of view FaceBook is a necessary evil, but it's really frustrating with the amount of utter bollocks people post. Loads seem to reply to something just to reply, some reply with identical answers to ones posted previously, and others jump in with the "What about [insert the blindingly obvious]?"

You, well I do anyway, really have to be in a happy calm place before going on there otherwise you'd end up on a multi-storey car park with a rifle having a cull.

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