Air cooled bottom end.

[Reinhoud]

6 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

Beware of CMSNL   

they say its in stock when its not 

That's the majority of those sellers i found out..

 

Again, SUZUKI DEALER!!!!!

[Reinhoud]

12 minutes ago, imago said:

They're 250 Eruro each from CMSNL. 

Ask the Suzuki dealer for a quote

[imago]

4 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

That's the majority of those sellers i found out..

 

Again, SUZUKI DEALER!!!!!

I heard you the first time! 

Robinsons (Suzuki Dealer) = £250 each.

Edited September 29, 2023 by imago

[Reinhoud]

Tasmania must be a lot cheaper then..

I paid about 300GBP for the lot..

[Reinhoud]

Is Robinsons Foundry a real / only Suzuki dealer? 

Or are the prices in Europe inflated?

[imago]

1 minute ago, Reinhoud said:

Tasmania must be a lot cheaper then..

I paid about 300GBP for the lot..

A lot of stuff has shot up in price, some genuinely costs more, some suppliers are jumping on the bandwagon. Add Brexit into the mix with the extra tax etc and it's a dear do now.

[Duckndive]

The EFE crank in my 1400cc motor has been 9.15 @ 168mph with 20psi into a T4 using an S&S carb and race gas 

when i swopped the 3 speed out for a stock box and removed the turbo kit its mint 

personally i think kat rods are over kill for a street motor  even doing the work your self with straight cuts and bearings that's a 2K crank  

[imago]

1 minute ago, Reinhoud said:

Is Robinsons Foundry a real / only Suzuki dealer? 

Or are the prices in Europe inflated?

Genuine dealership, and yes it's expensive.

I think you Antipodeans have an advantage with imports from Japan in terms of tarrifs and trade. Which makes sense I suppose.

[Duckndive]

3 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

Is Robinsons Foundry a real / only Suzuki dealer? 

Or are the prices in Europe inflated?

Robinsons are aside from Suzuki UK an official importer  

Fowlers get there parts from the above 

[imago]

Just now, Duckndive said:

The EFE crank in my 1400cc motor has been 9.15 @ 168mph with 20psi into a T4 using an S&S carb and race gas 

when i swopped the 3 speed out for a stock box and removed the turbo kit its mint 

personally i think kat rods are over kill for a street motor  even doing the work your self with straight cuts and bearings that's a 2K crank  

It's where I'm at with my thinking too. Straight cuts and bearings should be able to cope quite happily with road use without the need for stronger rods. Let's be honest, if there's enough smack going through it to make stock rods inadequate then it's only a matter of time before something else grenades.

[Paulm]

50 minutes ago, imago said:

That should be an OSS tag line.  

My intention was to stick in the 160 - 200 bracket partly for longevity of the engine, but also because I'm not convinced that either the 42 year old bike or the 56 year old bar holder could cope with much above that. 

My ET did and so did i,I is getting old now though

[imago]

5 minutes ago, Paulm said:

My ET did and so did i,I is getting old now though

What were the figures for yours Paul?

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, imago said:

My intention was to stick in the 160 - 200 bracket partly for longevity of the engine, but also because I'm not convinced that either the 42 year old bike or the 56 year old bar holder could cope with much above that. 

If thats your intention then use a GS1150 / EFE crank and rods - try and find a good one, save on pulling it apart, if the bearings are good just weld up the pins fully and be done with it! Spending £1500+ on a crank for sub 200hp doesn't make sense . . . . . . . . unless you get boost addicted ! ! ! As Clive says its usually detonation that kills engines, that or oil problems. Start fat on fuel and safe on ignition and use a dyno to creep up on optimal but don't try for a 'little bit more' - you have been warned!

[imago]

12 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

If thats your intention then use a GS1150 / EFE crank and rods - try and find a good one, save on pulling it apart, if the bearings are good just weld up the pins fully and be done with it! Spending £1500+ on a crank for sub 200hp doesn't make sense . . . . . . . . unless you get boost addicted ! ! ! As Clive says its usually detonation that kills engines, that or oil problems. Start fat on fuel and safe on ignition and use a dyno to creep up on optimal but don't try for a 'little bit more' - you have been warned!

Might not be clear in that post but "my intention was" as in that was the plan before the crank rebuild. So with the rebuild from what others are saying has worked for them then it shifts the potential up a notch into the 200 - 250 bracket. That gives me some leeway for 'normal' riding at the lower end of the scale and if I get an opportunity for a proper play then I can up it within that range.

At 200 hp you're in Hayabusa/GSXR1000 territory, giving it another 20hp or so on occasion will neutralise the weight difference. As @Duckndivepoints out all I've got to worry about then is stopping and corners. One thing at a time though. 

It's worth mentioning too that in a lot of respects the overall bike and particularly the electrical system and engine work, will be a shop window/proof of concept thing for the bike side of the business. It's all very well someone saying that they offer this that or the other services, and quite another when they can see, hear and touch them.

[Paulm]

2 hours ago, imago said:

What were the figures for yours Paul?

220bhp and 143ftlbs torque,was an oil cooled motor though,frame wasn't braced either.Them old boat anchor motors cost too much to handle the power,I really get why you're going down your route though,but know this,you will turn the boost up,you may turn it down again after a while but you will turn it up, I had mine at 15psi for a while,turned it down to 11psi and 220bhp

[clivegto]

3 hours ago, imago said:

That should be an OSS tag line.  

My intention was to stick in the 160 - 200 bracket partly for longevity of the engine, but also because I'm not convinced that either the 42 year old bike or the 56 year old bar holder could cope with much above that. 

58 now and the 260hp light weight Harris is a joy to ride. The power is just some thing you get used to, just means you don't have to thrash the bike to play with modern stuff 

[imago]

9 minutes ago, clivegto said:

58 now and the 260hp light weight Harris is a joy to ride. The power is just some thing you get used to, just means you don't have to thrash the bike to play with modern stuff 

A very different animal though Clive, lightweight, stiff frame designed for the power. 

The ET will be a massive improvement over stock in terms of brakes and suspension, and my personal opinion is that for riding 200 - 250 would be as far as it'd go and still be useable. Squeezing more out of it than that and it'd only be suitable for 'point and squirt' which is fun but I want it to do more than just that. These things are always a compromise.

17 minutes ago, Paulm said:

220bhp and 143ftlbs torque,was an oil cooled motor though,frame wasn't braced either.Them old boat anchor motors cost too much to handle the power,I really get why you're going down your route though,but know this,you will turn the boost up,you may turn it down again after a while but you will turn it up, I had mine at 15psi for a while,turned it down to 11psi and 220bhp

No arguments from me on any of that. So I reckon between everyone on here we've got it nailed down. Build the engine 'right' as above but without Kat rods, that way it'll handle 180 - 200 hp with the option for more with boost on special occasions.

[clivegto]

@imagoas has been said think about your suspension setup its worth spending money there as well, makes a world of difference in the real road going world 

[imago]

18 minutes ago, clivegto said:

@imagoas has been said think about your suspension setup its worth spending money there as well, makes a world of difference in the real road going world 

At the moment the plan is slabby front end rebuilt with new springs to suit weight, and piggy back shocks at the rear. Geometry tba once I have it on the bench so that I can measure it all up and work out what I need from the yokes in terms of offset rake and trail.  The JMC is quite short for a turbo which will no doubt cause some entertainment from standing, but will help with the turn in.

[Blower1]

I have rebuild several air cooled crankshafts. Most of them for drag race use. Some with Katana rods and some not.

None of the cranks I´v received for rebuild have had any issues with connecting rods. Usually they have twisted (broken weld) or big end bearing failure.

What I try to say is Katana rods are not mandatory for big power engines. If want beefier and heavier rods the GN250 rods are nearly identical with Katana rods and a lot easier to find. Even those eastern copies of GN250 rods seems to be good material.

My supercharged EFE crankshaft don´t have any fancy parts. It´s rebuilt with good used parts and original helical gears. First crankshaft lasted about 20000 street kilometers before crank pin failures. It had slightly over 220 hp and 200 Nm on rear wheel.

Clutch basket heavy duty back plate and hd springs are needed to handle big power.

 

 

[imago]

8 minutes ago, Blower1 said:

I have rebuild several air cooled crankshafts. Most of them for drag race use. Some with Katana rods and some not.

None of the cranks I´v received for rebuild have had any issues with connecting rods. Usually they have twisted (broken weld) or big end bearing failure.

What I try to say is Katana rods are not mandatory for big power engines. If want beefier and heavier rods the GN250 rods are nearly identical with Katana rods and a lot easier to find. Even those eastern copies of GN250 rods seems to be good material.

My supercharged EFE crankshaft don´t have any fancy parts. It´s rebuilt with good used parts and original helical gears. First crankshaft lasted about 20000 street kilometers before crank pin failures. It had slightly over 220 hp and 200 Nm on rear wheel.

Clutch basket heavy duty back plate and hd springs are needed to handle big power.

 

 

Good to know, thanks. 

[Duckndive]

43 minutes ago, Blower1 said:

What I try to say is Katana rods are not mandatory for big power engines.

If want beefier and heavier rods the GN250 rods are nearly identical with Katana rods and a lot easier to find. Even those eastern copies of GN250 rods seems to be good material.

Yeap there the one's Joe Marshall talked about on faceache