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Help with Bandit 750 Project?


ciath

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You sir, are a genius. Put a bit of diesel down each cylinder and left it sit for 24 hours then turned it back and forth by the nut behind the ignition pick up until it came free. Now I have carb issues, something which I despise. Not sure if I should head over banditforums.co.uk now or can anyone on here help me. When petcock is on bike wont start, when on prime petrol pours out of the over flow pipes. I am using Bandit Keihin CVK 32mm carbs on it that I ultrasonic cleaner myself with water and vinegar in a small ultrasonic bath. Had everything stripped down so maybe I have put something back together wrong.

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  • 2 months later...

Has it really been two months? Anyhow one set of carbs fully rebuilt later (not by me, beyond my skillset) and it runs. It starts and runs, havent driven it yet but I couldnt be happier right now after being without my main bike for this long. One small issue, I have my oil light on constantly, is this normal when using basically everything from the blandit 6 and just the slabby 750 engine?

1. Is there something I can do to get it working accurately instead of always on?

2. Obviously the CDI I am using lets the engine rev too high so wondering should I invest in one of those DYNA2000 custom ignitions or try track down some slabby electics?

3. The guy who sorted the carbs says its running like a pig. There is no real kick of power until you hit 4000RPM, normal? Jetting issues perhaps? Any suggestions welcomed?

Regards,

Keith Ryan

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I'd say hold fire at first on the Dyna, oil light would be my first fix, check for short or damage to earth ,make sure that switch is good too! When you swapped sump did you swap pipes and refit o-ring in middle of sump? Just a thought. But once oil light issue is sorted worry about jetting later, the 4000rom Rush is needles (height to be fair). If you drop the needles one clip it riches the fuel due to taper of needle, lowering the clip raises the taper allows more fuel. And vice versa lift clip up the needle pushes needle down into the tube, leaning off fuel.  So probably simple fix there.

ref cdi. Just don't Rev it fully open. Simple save some cash until right cdi turns up. 

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You can`t  adjust the needle heights on keihins cvk carbs by moving the clips in the grooves, no grooves.. I raised the needle by putting M3 aluminium washers under the clip but the needle is barely tapered and is very on off. For spares seal etc try NRP in Manchester they were very helpful.

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I might have sourced a 86 GSXR 750 CDI, Can anyone tell me if this will plug straight into the bandit loom once I swap back to the GSXR pickups or will I need a GSXR loom? Where is the oil switch located? Like Nigkat said you cant move the needles but I have added spacers according to the jet kit. I will look into this over the weekend.

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Just picked up a GSXR 1000 K7 rear shock and a slabby 750 cdi from Paddy Costello in Tullamore for €200 and popped into Eddie Rockets on the way home for a bit of grub. Monday will entail new cdi, shock, swingarm, chain and sprockets change, swap pickup coils and oil pressure switch. Then off to John O Grady for a Dyno tune up. I have sourced some slabby flatslides for €200. Would they be worth getting over the bandit carbs?

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On 14 January 2016 at 6:11 AM, ciath said:

Checked it with a multimeter and its reading 12.06V, 

A very late (too late) reply, but......

Just for future use, don't trust the 12V as being "all good"

I've had Battery's that showed strong on a metre but were gutless. 

One example I was told ages a go was those little 9V battery's. Plug 2 together and get 18V on a multimeter. My car only needs 12V so they should frighten it into life... but they won't.  Not being a smart arse, I learnt this the hard way with a bike battery.

Edit: I like Bandits, big boys Meccano. 

Edited by Tony Nitrous
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

I know its been a while. Really struggled to get that shock in place but its on now, new braced swingar,. new cush rubbers, new rear sprocket, chain and sprocket carrier, renthal bars, new bar ends and grips, new tail light and undertray, fixed my tacho light and now everything is coming together. Left on my list is the GSXR Pickups and Cdi, new oil pressure switch, adjust clutch, bleed brakes, change front sprocket, tighten everything up and get it on a dyno. Now how the hell do I get the front sprocket off where the chain and back wheel have already been removed. I am really struggling with this, used WD40 and alot of pressure on it and still getting no where. If anyone has any suggestions that'd be great. Once everything is finally together I will put up some pictures.

Regards,

Keith Ryan

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had thought about that but isnt that a pain to work on afterwards, no access to spark plugs and the top of the engine. I have a friend who offered to rebuild it if I get all the parts. Not sure what to get or where to get them but Ill look into it. I had a set of B6 carbs rebuilt for the job, bought gsxr 750 cdi and new b6 exhaust so I have alot of money put into the 6/750 route. Not really sure what to do now. Any recommendations?

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I am reading mixed pieces of information, can anyone confirm if b6 headers will work on b12? Also I called a breaker and sourced a slingshot 750 for €400. Will the bandit carbs work with this? The breaker said the bike came from UK and was tuned well running on Slabby flatslides, another forum post says these are too small at 29mm so would the 32mm B6 be any better once jetted and dynoed or should I get something bigger while at the breakers?

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