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1994 Turbo RF build


94RF1146

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  • 3 weeks later...

Alright, we put a base map in "Pamela".

Idle is moving, never had the throttle bodies synched. 

I had a slow leak in my Shinko that became a major leak on the dyno.

10 lbs spring in the wastegate (15 psi spike) no ram at the moment, need more time to configure.

260 hp - 168 ft/lbs but only 108mph on a 151 mph 4th gear gearing.

That's putting only 71 % to the ground.

I checked the clutch / lockup and the fibers are fine and the steels have no blue marks.

I suspect the tire was slipping on the rim as the tire  was going flat.

Tight up header, hose clamps, ect. Waiting to get my tire install on the rim for "secret spot" fun.

It was nice to finally hear this thing other than idle.

To be continued....

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  • Like 3
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On 7/10/2022 at 4:37 AM, 94RF1146 said:

260 hp - 168 ft/lbs but only 108mph on a 151 mph 4th gear gearing.

That's putting only 71 % to the ground.

Good progress! But what this actually means? Dyno was reading 108 but wheel speed should have been 151? Was the wheel speed measured by a sensor or calculated from engine rpm? If from rpm it can be either clutch or tire slipping, if measured from wheel then it must be tire slip.

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Posted (edited)

Arttu, the speed recorded by the dyno was 108 mph. 

My tire went flat, no air!.

We'll put it back on the dyno once I get my tire installed. I was expecting to get it back yesterday but that didn't happened.

My bike is geared for 189mph in 5th right now (16/40). 

I'll play a lil with the 10 lbs spring power then we'll set up the boost per gear , crank it up to 30 lbs and log it.

It's gonna be an animal!

;)

MM

 

Edited by 94RF1146
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Hi all,

Fresh Shinko Hookup Pro with 30 lbs installed on Pamela...

I had 3 washers per arm on the lockup.

We still have some slippage.

Gearing in 4th is up to 160mph not 155.mph.

We rev the bike to 11500 rpm. Dyno recorded 9755 rpm .

148 mph on 160 mph gearing is 7.5 % slippage .

Coup\le minor issues like air fittings  not holding air line, some ECU programing.

I have to check the clutch, stack height, air gap & add a washer on each arm.

It was a good day today, can't wait to see what it does at 30 lbs of boost.

Big thank to Steve Abussini for his time.

That's it for now .

MM

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  • Like 2
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Posted (edited)

No more tire slip.

Just added a 4th washer on each arm.

Changed the oil ( Lucas 20W50 with 3 squirt of ZDDP). Oil was milky, need to take some fuel off the table. Maybe 2-5 %.

Plugs look good.

That 38mm Tial wastegate doesn't do much, making 20 psi on a 10 lbs spring!

I created a monster !  lol

I think I got a bad wheel bearing on the brake caliper side in the back.

I got the Brock Prostreet clutch mod for GSXR-1100. removed the convex washer and narrow fiber. Replaced by nrornal one.

My stack height is 1.74" / air gap set at .110".

Bike makes 2 lbs of boost @ 5000rpm.

Edited by 94RF1146
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4 hours ago, 94RF1146 said:

That 38mm Tial wastegate doesn't do much, making 20 psi on a 10 lbs spring!

So making 20 psi on 10 psi spring without boost controller adding more? Then there is something to fix for you if you want it going down the track in controlled manner ;)

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Yep, wastegate routing can be tricky with big and efficient turbos. And having well flowing exhaust manifold makes it even harder. But I think it's also very important in your case. Most likely you need to be able to control boost accurately down to 7 psi range to get good consistent launches.

One good option is place the wastegate exit on the turbine housing. That seems to work very well usually.

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One thing we do for dyno is put the longest bolts you can fit on lockup with as many washers as it will hold.  You don't want any slippage. If the dyno guy gets a bike with a multistage, he pulls all the stall springs out that hold the arms back and adds weight also.

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Also on waste gates, always had better luck/control when it was on the turbo instead of header/collector but I have been using the 5 bolt flange with waste gate port built in. Some people even cut a hole in the hot side housing to make it work this way.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys.

Went to the track last night...

I was afraid of my own creation !  lol

Didn't really dump the clutch = slow ass 60 ft ( dragging on 2 step @ 5000 rpm)

Did 2 passes :

# 1 pass - some dumbass (me) forgot to turn on the co2 bottle for the air shifter = no shift = aborted pass :(

#2 pass - still  afraid to dump the clutch. Bike pulled hard to the left, got out of the groove and close to the median = aborted pass. :(

Need to learn the bike. Going to a proper Test & Tune next Friday.

The bike is a chick magnet....or it's my sexy Frenchie accent ???   lol

People loved the bike.

Will keep you updated

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys."

Went to T&T last Friday with "Pamela...

Bike is 520 lbs. wet @ 68 1/2 " wheelbase.

2 batteries - 24V start.

Bike is kicking my ass, had a 16lbs spring in the wastegate. Haven't made a full pass yet, have to let off.

Haven't played with the clutch yet, going on a DynoJet dyno Thursday.

Bike has 16/43 gearing on a 26.4" tall Shinko Reactor slick @ 14 lbs. of air. No traction issues.

Only get 1 oz of clear liquid in my catch can after every pass.

Wheelies, wheelies, wheelies.....

Got all winter to figure out bike & ECU.

;)

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Hi guys,

Went to the dyno today...

I set up the boost cut at 30 psi and saw 37.1 psi right after the boost cut.

Then, something was wrong, strange noises and aborted the pull. Thought we had grenade the clutch basket but after investigation discovered that I was running on 3 cylinder.

The clutch can't hold power with 5 washers on the arms. Had synthetic oil in the bike, I normally use Lucas 20/50 dyno oil.

Air gap stayed the same at .120".

Installing longer bolts and adding more weights for next dyno.

Here's couple pics:

 

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That's some bad luck with that plug! Did you get any power readings before it let go?

What kind springs you have in the clutch? You may still need quite stiff springs to make the clutch hold at lower rpms where the boost starts to come in. I guess you know it will be quite challenging to get consistent launches with that kind lock-up clutch?

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I don't know what's wrong but that plug ain't right :o Never seen one part company like that! If its seized or cross threaded it normally just pulls the threads out, so hope its not and that the thread just unscrews like normal. Interesting numbers predicted by the calculator in last pic :pimp:

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10 hours ago, Arttu said:

That's some bad luck with that plug! Did you get any power readings before it let go?

What kind springs you have in the clutch? You may still need quite stiff springs to make the clutch hold at lower rpms where the boost starts to come in. I guess you know it will be quite challenging to get consistent launches with that kind lock-up clutch?

Arttu, the best we got was 387 hp. The dyno speed wasn't matching the gearing. I'll put longer bolts and more weight.

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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

I don't know what's wrong but that plug ain't right :o Never seen one part company like that! If its seized or cross threaded it normally just pulls the threads out, so hope its not and that the thread just unscrews like normal. Interesting numbers predicted by the calculator in last pic :pimp:

Hi 1460,

I found the plug sitting on top of the motor like that !It just popped up under boost. The threads were still in the head and I was happy to see that the grounding strap was still there. I removed it using a flat blade.

In couple hours I'll put CR9E I have, open the clutch pack and look at plates, put oil in it and start her up. 

My fuel system can support 600+ hp. My Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2 can support 750 hp. The clutch is my weakest point. There's nothing out there for watercooled  GSXR-1100 motor.

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