Dukeman Posted July 5, 2021 Posted July 5, 2021 Yep - I was riding along and bang... a huge noise gave me the shits. I though the exhaust must have fallen off... piston in bits or crank .... turned out No. 2 spark plug broke free and wanted to make a run for it. The thread is gone.. so I will helicoil all 4. Questions. Can i remove the head while the engine is still in the Katana? Will there be room to clear the studs? What are the best helicoils? I hear there are some real good ones? Any advice? Quote
no class Posted July 5, 2021 Posted July 5, 2021 head can be removed …… “Helicoil” are the brand you will want to use . 1 Quote
Dukeman Posted July 5, 2021 Author Posted July 5, 2021 Timesert looks like the go? They appear better than helicoil - anyone know the thread size? Quote
Dukeman Posted July 5, 2021 Author Posted July 5, 2021 Just to say - the motor is 1150 EFE - there is not much room between the frame and the top of the motor. I have had the cam cover off - no problem there but it is a tight fit. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 5, 2021 Posted July 5, 2021 16 minutes ago, Dukeman said: Just to say - the motor is 1150 EFE - there is not much room between the frame and the top of the motor. I have had the cam cover off - no problem there but it is a tight fit. For all the aggro, cussing and swearing, you may as well yank the whole engine, then more space and less chance of dropping shit down the chain tunnel. Couple of mates + beer (after its out) = easy job! Quote
TonyGee Posted July 5, 2021 Posted July 5, 2021 I prefer timecert's but thats just MY preference. Others will disagree. Quote
KATANAMANGLER Posted July 5, 2021 Posted July 5, 2021 10 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: For all the aggro, cussing and swearing, you may as well yank the whole engine, then more space and less chance of dropping shit down the chain tunnel. Couple of mates + beer (after its out) = easy job! +1 for engine out. It's not a big job if there are a couple of you. It will make the repair so much easier. Quote
Dukeman Posted July 5, 2021 Author Posted July 5, 2021 OK - so the motor is coming out.... well that just means LOTS of extra work. The frame need painting... lots to do! What size is the spark plug thread.. I can guess at M14 x 1.25mm but I not sure without measuring a plug. Thanks guys for the input... I really wanted to pull the head and fix it in a couple of hours... Motor out will be done with my son (and he will whinge and moan... hes 18), gone are the days I could do it on my own! Quote
Arttu Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 (edited) I don't know if the Kat frame is tighter than E frame but on my E it wasn't too difficult to get the head off while the engine was staying in the frame. Naturally everything would be easier with bare engine, once you have got the engine out. But like you were anticipating that will probably bring up some additional little things to fix at the same go... The plug thread is M14x1.25mm. Thread is M12x1.25. Edited July 6, 2021 by Arttu Corrected wrong info. Quote
Blower1 Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 The plug (DR8ES) thread is M12x1.25 at least on GSX 1100 EFE engines. Quote
Reinhoud Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 23 hours ago, Dukeman said: Yep - I was riding along and bang... a huge noise gave me the shits. I though the exhaust must have fallen off... piston in bits or crank .... turned out No. 2 spark plug broke free and wanted to make a run for it. The thread is gone.. so I will helicoil all 4. Questions. Can i remove the head while the engine is still in the Katana? Will there be room to clear the studs? What are the best helicoils? I hear there are some real good ones? Any advice? I had the same with my Merc, a shop put a sort of sleeve in it, I still have the tap, and only 1 sleeve, I think you ca get it at an automotive parts store. Quote
Reinhoud Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/301846893377?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-159824-816807-4&mkcid=2&itemid=301846893377&targetid=4584619897046654&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412352396&mkgroupid=1296324506082513&rlsatarget=pla-4584619897046654&abcId=9300543&merchantid=136820&msclkid=59926812e87d120cd6b808f6ff68545b Quote
Dukeman Posted July 6, 2021 Author Posted July 6, 2021 Thanks - I have found a shop with the Time Sert tool kit - just need to get the inserts. Planning on doing all 4! - Clutch is slipping at high revs - Starter motor kicks back when starting if i am not careful.. hit the starter button and slowly open the choke and it kicks in to life RS36.. carbs, otherwsie it can kick back. So yes these things need to be addressed. Timing chain.. does it need to be split? Can not remember? - Has an APE manual chain adjuster. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 4 hours ago, Arttu said: The plug thread is M14x1.25mm. Isn't that a car plug size? I always thought they were M12 ! Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 14 minutes ago, Dukeman said: - Clutch is slipping at high revs - Could be oil? could be springs? - Starter motor kicks back when starting if i am not careful.. hit the starter button and slowly open the choke and it kicks in to life RS36.. carbs, otherwsie it can kick back. Kick back possibly Ignition timing ie. too advanced or maybe weakened battery? Timing chain.. does it need to be split? Can not remember? - Has an APE manual chain adjuster. To remove head - No! Just unbolt the chain sprockets off the cams, put some wire / string through chain and then drop chain down tunnel. Wire / string help fishing it out on reassembly. Answers in RED Quote
TonyGee Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 i know its a ball ache but when ever ive done plug threads ive always pulled the head off, its just the thought of any cuttings sitting in the combustion chamber, yeah you can use grease but its not a guarantee you won't drop any bits. just my way Quote
Arttu Posted July 6, 2021 Posted July 6, 2021 5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Isn't that a car plug size? I always thought they were M12 ! Yes, you are right! Sorry for brainfart. I was recalling using an old plug to make an adapter for M14x1.25 oil port but obviously that was some old car plug... So correct thread is M12x1.25. Quote
Reinhoud Posted July 11, 2021 Posted July 11, 2021 On 7/6/2021 at 7:42 PM, TonyGee said: i know its a ball ache but when ever ive done plug threads ive always pulled the head off, its just the thought of any cuttings sitting in the combustion chamber, yeah you can use grease but its not a guarantee you won't drop any bits. just my way I tried to fix sparkplug thread once with head on, but there was quite a bit of swarf in the cylinder after cutting threat.. I tried to use a cvacuum cleaner to clean it out.After that I needed to take the head of for another reason, there was quite a bit of swarf left in the cylinder 1 Quote
mikethemechanic Posted July 12, 2021 Posted July 12, 2021 Helicoil Ends can protrude slightly into Combustion Chamber. Causes Preignition and engine damage at Hi RPM. Timeserts are the proper way to do the thread repairs. If you go to all the Bother removing head do Time serts. On my Race Heads I put Timeserts in every one. 1 Quote
Reinhoud Posted July 13, 2021 Posted July 13, 2021 12 hours ago, mikethemechanic said: Helicoil Ends can protrude slightly into Combustion Chamber. Causes Preignition and engine damage at Hi RPM. Timeserts are the proper way to do the thread repairs. If you go to all the Bother removing head do Time serts. On my Race Heads I put Timeserts in every one. Are you talking about the standard helicoils? For sparkplugs something else is used Quote
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