Rochy111 Posted September 6, 2020 Posted September 6, 2020 Hi again everyone, my 11’s Rev counter is jumpy, has anyone come across this before and is it an easy fix? cheers Quote
wraith Posted September 6, 2020 Posted September 6, 2020 Is this when you're riding the bike or at a standstill? 1 Quote
Dezza Posted September 7, 2020 Posted September 7, 2020 Check the wiring connections to the tach. There's a connection on the yellow / black from one of the coils mid loom and also obviously the block that feeds the clocks. Check the earth too for the clocks. 1 Quote
Rochy111 Posted September 27, 2020 Author Posted September 27, 2020 Thanks Wraith, it’s when I’m riding it. Thanks Dezza I’ll double check them again, I’ve had the coils off so I might have missed a bad wire Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 On 9/7/2020 at 9:20 AM, Dezza said: Check the wiring connections to the tach. There's a connection on the yellow / black from one of the coils mid loom and also obviously the block that feeds the clocks. Check the earth too for the clocks. I thought the tacho signal came from the CDI module? 1 Quote
Rochy111 Posted September 27, 2020 Author Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) Thanks , Just had a quick look at the wiring diagram and it says that it’s feed is from the igniter unit, where does that get its signal from for the revs Edited September 27, 2020 by Rochy111 Update Quote
vizman Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 If you have a wiring diagram then it’s pretty self explanatory..... rh crank signal to the cdi, cdi to the tach. The tach generally has three terminals one is a switched live, one is a signal from the cdi and the other is an earth. Any of theses feeds/earth might be at fault, dodgy connector, damaged wire, bad earth etc... sometimes aftermarket rev counters take their feed from the + coil terminal Quote
Dezza Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 The Y/B wire goes from the CDI to one coil and has a T in it to feed the signal to the tacho. At least it does on both my air and oil cooled bikes. Quote
dupersunc Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 The 3 pin connector on the back of the rev counter is susceptible to corrosion . That would be the first thing to check. 1 Quote
wraith Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 As it's only when you're riding it, I'd say it's nothing complicated than a worn old taco, my kat one has been doing it for years, reads fine till I go over a bump then it jumps about then settles down. But on the UK roads that's not for long, as the UK could not lay a smooth good road it there life depended on it are road mender's think you put some tarmac on a road hit it with a spad one and that's a good job hit it twice that's a great job rant over, I will now get my coat Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 10 hours ago, Dezza said: The Y/B wire goes from the CDI to one coil and has a T in it to feed the signal to the tacho. At least it does on both my air and oil cooled bikes. Not sure how they work then as most Suzuki tacho's need two pulses to 'count' correctly ie. both coils, hence why the ignition module is used. Quote
Dezza Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 11 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Not sure how they work then as most Suzuki tacho's need two pulses to 'count' correctly ie. both coils, hence why the ignition module is used. From efe manual, OEM SUzuki. Oil cooled machines are wired the same. Quote
vizman Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 I don’t think oilboilers are wired the same. 2 Quote
dupersunc Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 All oil boilers have a dedicated black and red wire to send a signal from the CDI to the Tacho. It doesn't go near the coils. 2 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 2 hours ago, vizman said: I don’t think oilboilers are wired the same. No 'think' about it - they aren't! Quote
Dezza Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) Slabsides are wired the same as in the diagram, and they have oil cooled engines Unfortuntely, the OEM manual doesn't have a simplified ignition circuit diagram as does the efe manual. I do accept that other oil cooled bikes may use different clocks/wiring. However, I do use one from a 600 teapot as a 'test' unit, so as far as I know that works the same as efe, slabby Get your magnifying glasses out: the B/Y feeds the tacho from a T to one of the coils as does the efe. Edited September 28, 2020 by Dezza Pedantry 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 2 hours ago, wraith said: This one is getting fun she's definately got a stutter LOL! 1 Quote
dupersunc Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 1 hour ago, Dezza said: Slabsides are wired the same as in the diagram, and they have oil cooled engines Unfortuntely, the OEM manual doesn't have a simplified ignition circuit diagram as does the efe manual. I do accept that other oil cooled bikes may use different clocks/wiring. However, I do use one from a 600 teapot as a 'test' unit, so as far as I know that works the same as efe, slabby Get your magnifying glasses out: the B/Y feeds the tacho from a T to one of the coils as does the efe. Fair enough. All the slingshots and bandits have a separate feed though. 1 Quote
wraith Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: she's definately got a stutter LOL! I bet you would not say no to her Quote
vizman Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) None of mine or the dudettes or any slabby I’ve ever worked on was wired up like that as far as the tacho feed, they’ve all been fed like dunc said. but that’s not to say some or even the vast majority aren’t. Edited September 28, 2020 by vizman Quote
kiwisuzuki1100nz Posted October 21, 2020 Posted October 21, 2020 Just a thought but I had bot my tacho and speedo jump around when riding and found it was the mountng rubbers gone and the dial rubber mounting surrond. Changed those and all fixed Quote
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