Another turbo slingshot

[Baron]

So bike is GSX-R 1100M. Got it pretty cheap and only problem was that it wasn't running at all.
 

 

After cleaning carbs, replacing gaskets, new spark plugs and filled it with new gas got it running pretty well. Transmission works perfectly and overall engine condition seems very good.
 

Then started to make some electrical and bodywork modifications. And of course slam it with turbo.
 

After making a few new exhaust bolt threads got the new manifold mounted. Exhaust manifold is from ProBoost and turbo is modified TD05-16G.

 

As for carb modifications, blocked stock diaphragm venting hoses with aluminium pieces and glue. Installed and glued new metal T-pieces for fuel bowl venting. Also drilled new 5mm diaphragm venting holes to plenum side. Jetting is stock.
 

 

Couldn't fit stock oil cooler so I bought universal chinese oil cooler with AN8 fittings and made new oil lines with Torques couplings and adapters. Cooler is mounted at the bottom with stock rubber mounts and also I put OEM style round dampeners on top.
 

 

Next step was to fabricate mounting plate for fuel system components. 
 

Fuel pump: PIERBURG 7.21440.78.0
Filter: WIX WF8033
Fuel regulator: Malpassi
 

Bracket was mounted at the old airbox location.
 

 

Next step was to fabricate exhaust, electricals and new tail fairings. Also made case for fuel pressure gauge and installed it.
 

Tail fairing is from Kawasaki ZX-6R 03/04.

 

Got it all assembled and fired up. Had some problems with idle and after boost rpm fluctuation but that was fixed with rising fuel pressure (0.15bar at idle).

Current state:
 

Because everything is stock i'm running with 0.7bar boost. In there future i'm going to rebuild that engine to withstand more boost.

TODO next:
- Install some kind of oil catch can. I'm getting pretty much oil out from those small filters, especially one which is mounted on oil fill plug. Advices?

- Clutch started slipping... Which brand clutch should I buy? Maybe go for lock-up also?

 

Thank you for your interest!

Edited August 29, 2020 by Baron

[Gixer1460]

Catch can / bottle - yes about a litre capacity either open or closed with vent. Clutch - only use OEM parts. Stock springs and a lock-up is best solution and generally use either mineral or semi synth oil - anything that doesn't contain 'friction modifiers'. And stock pistons may not last long even at 'only' 0.7 bar boost!

[Baron]

I'm using castrol power 1 10W-40 semi synth oil. Who is the "best" supplier for lock-up clutches and also delivers to Finland?
 

0.7 bar boost is the lowest that turbo bypass can go. I've adjusted bypass actuator rod as long as it can be.

[vizman]

For your lock up you could try dave dunlop at fastbymeturbosystems

[MooreMatthew]

Be good to see your fuel side piping to see how neat it is 

I'm hoping to start my build off again in coming weeks so always open for ideas so pics be good 

Cheers

[Baron]

Finally had time to install PLX wideband. Summary:
20-60km/h: afr 16
90-110km/h: afr 14.7
Full throttle: afr 11

Adjusted mixture screws by those results which are 3 full turns out now, so theres a need for bigger pilot jets.

Full throttle afr is concerning rich. Current main jets are 125, maybe go for a size smaller?

Found a local supplier for lock-ups.

Also installed new OEM full clutch pack. No more slipping 

 

 

[Gixer1460]

12 hours ago, Baron said:

Full throttle: afr 11

Full throttle afr is concerning rich. Current main jets are 125, maybe go for a size smaller?

Also installed new OEM full clutch pack. No more slipping 

AFR - not too bad, its safe rich, not slobbery rich - maybe 122.5 MJ could help? Deffo slightly fatter pilot will help.

And with all that weight on the clutch - I should hope it doesn't slip LOL! I just have screws and nuts for many hundreds of hp's 

[Baron]

I paid a visit at dyno shop at got some numbers. 227hp on wheel and 163nm.

 

[Blubber]

Thats with 0.7bar boost ?

Was the AFR correct..ish or corrected after that run? 

 

Sound like a fun drive btw 

[Baron]

Yeah, 0.7 bar boost.

 

Haven't made changes on jettings, so still running with stocks.

[clivegto]

Nice result, power curve looks great which will make it loads of fun to ride. 

[Baron]

Now it's time to continue this project to step 2, big bore and more boost!

Plan it to increase boost to 1.2 ish and also of course build the engine to withstand those numbers. I want to keep project costs relatively low, so no carillo rods, etc.

 

There is a couple of things to think of:
- This engine is 1991 so it has shim head. I have read that many people have changed their own ones for screw head, but newer told the real reason. Is there a real risk to increase boost wish current head?

- Oil cooler placement

- What rods to use, Maxspeeding water cooled? Will they clear the crankcase?

- Sourcing for intercooler. I have been 2 days searching online for matching size one with outlets downwards, but couldn't find. Maybe open thread on wanted section?

- Sourcing for bst40 aluminium carb tops.

- Dyna 2000... Or is there better ignition control units? Not going for EFI at this stage.

- I have blown R750 short stroke dot engine with OK condition cams in it. Should I swap those cams?

 

What I already have on shelf:

Used old style wiseco low comp pistons with corresponding bored block. Piston tops are soda blasted and will need all new rings.

Working old green dyla coils.

 

[Gixer1460]

16 minutes ago, Baron said:

Now it's time to continue this project to step 2, big bore and more boost!

Plan it to increase boost to 1.2 ish and also of course build the engine to withstand those numbers. I want to keep project costs relatively low, so no carillo rods, etc.

There is a couple of things to think of:
- This engine is 1991 so it has shim head. I have read that many people have changed their own ones for screw head, but newer told the real reason. Is there a real risk to increase boost wish current head?

- Oil cooler placement

- What rods to use, Maxspeeding water cooled? Will they clear the crankcase?

- Sourcing for intercooler. I have been 2 days searching online for matching size one with outlets downwards, but couldn't find. Maybe open thread on wanted section?

- Sourcing for bst40 aluminium carb tops.

- Dyna 2000... Or is there better ignition control units? Not going for EFI at this stage.

- I have blown R750 short stroke dot engine with OK condition cams in it. Should I swap those cams?

 

What I already have on shelf:

Used old style wiseco low comp pistons with corresponding bored block. Piston tops are soda blasted and will need all new rings.

Working old green dyla coils.

 

What do you regard as 'big bore'? At 1.2bar boost you could still use Busa rods or GSXR (although they maybe marginal - most are good to about 280hp) Most H beam rods will need some degree of clearancing / case grinding.

My 1460 GSXR is using a shim head - i've no worries about it! Shims are only problematic with high revs and buzzing the engine - mine makes peak power at about sub 9k rpm currently. For intercooler go bespoke - try these guys . . . . https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0066/8840/7655/files/brochure_2019.pdf?v=1599647498

Don't need 40mm carbs - they are a PITA to set up normally - use 36mm, easier to get right and find - just need a GOOD set!

Dyna2000 works but there are better boxes, this seems to have a good rep on here - https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm

Most Turbos like 'soft' cams ie good lift but short duration - if you have 'M' cams you are pretty much stuck with those as variations are thin on the ground - I had billet ones ground for mine to suit the application!

[clivegto]

Mk1 busa rods to fit your pistons with a 2mm spacor plate under the block will keep costs down. 

[Baron]

Time to finally continue this project.

 

I stripped whole bike down into pieces and sent our for powder coating.

 

Next thing was to design some kind of instrument cluster mount since everything was used to be just "hanging" there. Mount is 3D printed with ABS and mounted on handebars.

 

Current state:

 

I have a problem with extented swingarm which I bought as second hand.  I was told that it was used in GSXR 1100. It mounted fine into the frame but problem is with rear axle and wheel.

With stock swingarm, distance between swingarm holes is 245mm and on extended swingarm this same distance is 240mm, so whole package with wheel, spacers, etc wont fit in. 

 

I also tried to spread the "legs" apart, but it only gave 3mm extra, which is not enough. One solution would be to grind some meat off from rear brake caliper spacer and hanger itself, or use something different kind of chain adjusters. Any idea how to fix this?

 

Also need some part sourcing help. Here is picture of "older style wiseco piston" which I bought as complete set as second hand. Can anyone confirm this by the marking? Where would I find suitable piston ring set?

If I go with busa gen 1 rods, where should I buy them from?

 

Thanks for checking out!

 

Edited April 30, 2022 by Baron

[Gixer1460]

Re : the swingarm, my first thought was a bottle jack between, go slow and 5mm should be achievable!

Pistons must be really old as no one seems to engrave the tops anymore! XC rings should be easy to get - decent engine builder or at worst Bay of E !

Bus rods - ask engine builders who build big HP turbo engines as will usually swap out rods for Carrilo, Falicon, Eagle, Arrows etc. or again Egay!

[Baron]

I found a supplier for piston rings. They are 1mm + 1mm + 2mm and wiseco product code is 3189XG.

I got a photo of piston which is presumably from stock 1127. Distance between top of the piston pin to top of the piston is 16.85mm and on wiseco this distance is 19.90mm.

I was told that these wisecos are "low comp pistons", but I started measuring them and seems like they are something else...

I would need help to choose rods which will go with these pistons.

Busa rods:
Pros: stronger
Cons: 2,5mm longer
Does the engine case/rod bolt need grinding?

WC Rods:
Pros: ?
Cons: ?
Does the engine case/rod bolt need grinding?

Stock rods:
Pros: budget
Cons: durability? Up to what hp?

Carrillo:
Pros: durability
Cons: expensive
Does the engine case/rod bolt need grinding?

Also I would need some opinions which engine should I go forward with...

I have 1991 R 1100 engine and 1100 F engine, both are running and working.

Edited May 12, 2022 by Baron

[davecara]

Busa rods need a barrel spacer.

Carillo rods will need the cases 'reliving' around the big ends, not by much though.

Double check those pistons, in my experience (which isnt infallible) low comp will have a dished crown

Use the 91 1100R motor with the F head so youve got locknut adjsutment rather than shims

[Baron]

Decided to go with these pistons with 2x 0.5mm copper base gasket and 2mm steel spacer. Compression ratio should be around 8.5.

 

Got everything installed and painted it some VHT GM satin black engine enamel. Very nice finish and I can highly recommend that stuff.

 

Made full wiring loom with ignitech racing 3 ECU and installed oil cooler under the seat. Cooler fans are noctua 140mm IP65 PC fans.

 

Lets hope it gets enough airflow... 

 

Front of the engine got the smallest FMIC intercooler. It's a tight fit.

 

I'm just waiting for is mechanical scavenge pump before test run...

 

[Baron]

I'm now having some problems with starting her... So I'm using Ignitech racing 3 and she is not running - at all. All I get is pops and bangs out from the exhaust.

Wiring should be OK.
- I get signal from pick-up.
- When I'm firing individual plugs:
-> cylinder 1 fires 1+4
-> cylinder 2 fires 2+3
-> cylinder 3 fires 3+2
-> cylinder 4 fires 4+1. Plug 4 is installed on the pick-up side of the engine.

- Plugs are stock JR9B, stock coils, stock plug caps.
- Plugs are wet and spark is nice blue.
- Carbs are rebuilt with new float valves, gaskets, etc...

no luck...

Below is a some pics of my setup.

Any good tips for troubleshooting?

[Gixer1460]

Has it ever run in this configuration? I've never seen / used or played with an Ignitech Racing 3 unit, so treat anything said as guesswork!

There are some strange setting figures in some of that set up that don't make 'normal' sense?

I don't know how the unit synchronises with the std wide tooth and that may be an issue?

The signal trace is odd - wide tooth is obvious then there should be 3 more equally spaced - but they aren't ? And there is no output on the 2nd channel?

Dwell time seems excessive - I usually have a setting of 3000 - 3500 microsecs

[Baron]

It has never ran with this configuration. I'm running with the settings that I got from ignitech which are made for 1100GSXR with TPS.

I will also send message for them to verify operation of my unit...

[jameskat]

So channel 2 fires 1 and 4?

[Baron]

I got new configuration from Ignitech and they changed the firing order which fixed the issue. God I love their support!

Below is pic how it's setup now.

Took her out to get some sun

I'm getting a little afraid of the oil temps... When I'm cruising 50kmh on third gear, oil temp is 104C. Also when im cruising on highway 80kmh, oil temp is still 104C. When I stop, then temperature rises immediately to 120C which is max on my gauge. Cooling fans are running constantly. Oil lines and cooler is hot, so there should be some heat to be transfered.

I have my temp sensor installed on the cam plug which got hole drilled all the way through. I didn't have temperature gauge before, so I can't know what the temps were before installing cooler in the back.

 

Could this be related to a bit lean mixture? When I'm cruising 50kmh afr is 15.5 and on 80kmh afr is 16. I didn't check yet what afr I'm getting on boost.

Idle afr is spot on 14.

I got 130 main jets and stock pilot jets on blandit BST36 carbs.

 

I'm not sure if airflow to cooler is too restrictive...

[Gixer1460]

I wouldn't like cruise AFRs much more than 14.7. Overrun is ok up between 15-16:1. I like WOT afrs between 11.5-12.5 depending on boost level! My personal preferences!